Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor
from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up manually at the
moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Cheers!

MM

MM wrote:

I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor

I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

elsewhere, I see the compressor is 85W

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running to
avoid flattening the battery).

Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor

I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

elsewhere, I see the compressor is 85W

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running to
avoid flattening the battery).

+1. Can't quite see why you wouldn't want to just run it from your car's
battery.

Tim

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:33:05 +0100, MM wrote:

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

I guess you want to use the compressor for something else away from the
car not the implied car tyre inflation?

If the 85 W quoted is correct thats at least 7A @ 12v. The current draw
will depend on how hard the compressor is working, which will be related
to output pressure. The higher the output pressure the more work the
compressor has to do so it will draw more current.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:33:05 +0100, MM wrote:

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

I guess you want to use the compressor for something else away from the
car not the implied car tyre inflation?

If the 85 W quoted is correct thats at least 7A @ 12v. The current draw

These also take one hell of a switch-on surge. SMPSUs tend to need
to be specially designed to be able to deliver large switch-on surges.

will depend on how hard the compressor is working, which will be related
to output pressure. The higher the output pressure the more work the
compressor has to do so it will draw more current.

I use one of the portable jumpstarter packs with a built-in sealed
lead acid battery and compressor. The trouble is finding a good one;
many of them are complete crap, and have fake batteries which are a
tiny fraction of the capacity which their size and markings claim,
and some of the compressors and tyre valve couplers are crap too.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ...

I use one of the portable jumpstarter packs with a built-in sealed
lead acid battery and compressor. The trouble is finding a good one;
many of them are complete crap, and have fake batteries which are a
tiny fraction of the capacity which their size and markings claim,
and some of the compressors and tyre valve couplers are crap too.

I bought a Clarke 910 jumper/compressor, after about 2 years, I was unable
to charge the unit.

OT but why don't you see mains tyre compressors at a reasonable price?
Perhaps there's no demand.

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I use one of the portable jumpstarter packs with a built-in sealed
lead acid battery and compressor. The trouble is finding a good one;
many of them are complete crap, and have fake batteries which are a
tiny fraction of the capacity which their size and markings claim,
and some of the compressors and tyre valve couplers are crap too.

I have one bought from Lidl many years ago - when Lidl stores were pretty
rare round here. It appeared exactly the same as the Halfords one - but
half the price. It still works just fine for tyres, but no longer can
deliver enough current to start a car. Excellent value at 20 quid. ;-)

--
*Why 'that tie suits you' but 'those shoes suit you'?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

MM wrote:
Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor
from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up manually at the
moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Yes. SMPS's of that standard don't like motors, and what's the current
draw of the compressor at full pressure?

Mine pulls about twice what your PSU is capable of.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

In article ,
"Norbert Thistlethwaite" writes:


"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ...

I use one of the portable jumpstarter packs with a built-in sealed
lead acid battery and compressor. The trouble is finding a good one;
many of them are complete crap, and have fake batteries which are a
tiny fraction of the capacity which their size and markings claim,
and some of the compressors and tyre valve couplers are crap too.

I bought a Clarke 910 jumper/compressor, after about 2 years, I was unable
to charge the unit.

Lead Acid batteries need care.
Stick one on the shelf for 2 years, and it will likely be
dead, especially if it wasn't fully charged to start with.
I always try to recharge mine as soon as possible after use.
Flattening one is bad news too, for its longevity.
You need to periodically top it up, but overcharging (as
some of the cheap chargers which come with these can easily
do) will also wreck a SLA battery. I usually charge mine
from an accurate voltage and current limited bench supply,
and never used the wallwart which came with it and has no
voltage or current limiting (other than its own internal
resistance). Some come with crap batteries, as I said.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I use one of the portable jumpstarter packs with a built-in sealed
lead acid battery and compressor. The trouble is finding a good one;
many of them are complete crap, and have fake batteries which are a
tiny fraction of the capacity which their size and markings claim,
and some of the compressors and tyre valve couplers are crap too.

I have one bought from Lidl many years ago - when Lidl stores were pretty
rare round here. It appeared exactly the same as the Halfords one - but
half the price. It still works just fine for tyres, but no longer can
deliver enough current to start a car. Excellent value at 20 quid. ;-)

The one I bought from CPC many years ago was good enough quality
that I decided to buy a new deep discharge SLA battery for it
when the original battery died. It was probably 6 years old at the
time, but I had also got rather behind in keeping it topped up.
The new battery cost more than a new jumpstarter, but new jumpstarters
are often poor quality now.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:50:04 +0100, Tim+
wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor

I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

elsewhere, I see the compressor is 85W

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running to
avoid flattening the battery).

+1. Can't quite see why you wouldn't want to just run it from your car's
battery.

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element. So now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that
effect, since the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

I'm glad I asked, because if the Halfords unit isn't powerful enough,
I'll just use the car's socket with the engine running.

MM

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:04:26 +0100, MM wrote:

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running
to avoid flattening the battery).

+1. Can't quite see why you wouldn't want to just run it from your
car's battery.

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any more,
because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them when
the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's element. So
now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that effect, since
the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

There's a fuse on the socket power feed, isn't there? We can, I think,
safely assume that the wiring is rated to withstand a load that's below
the fuse's rating.

MM wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:50:04 +0100, Tim+
wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor

I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W
elsewhere, I see the compressor is 85W

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running to
avoid flattening the battery).
+1. Can't quite see why you wouldn't want to just run it from your car's
battery.

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element. So now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that
effect, since the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

The element on a cigarette lighter is, IIRC, normally a couple of
hundred watts.

I'm glad I asked, because if the Halfords unit isn't powerful enough,
I'll just use the car's socket with the engine running.

The normal rating for the "accessory socket" is at least 10 amps,
probably 20. The actual rating should be in the manual, or you may need
to phone your local dealer.

You shouldn't need the engine running unless you run the compressor for
an hour or two, and as even the tyres on my Land Rover only take a
quarter of an hour from dead flat to running pressure...


--
Tciao for Now!

John.

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element. So now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that
effect, since the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

Basically what they are saying is the 'fag lighter socket' is now an
accessory socket, and not to be used for fag lighters, but rather 12 volt
accessories.... phone chargers, mini fridges, coffee pots, compressors,
vibrators etc (and yes, there are 12 volt accessory socket powered vibro's
for sale.. with the warning not to vibe and drive

The fag lighter used to consume around 10 amps, and of course got hot, so
the socket was metal and designed for the lighter to clip in whilst heating,
and pop out when hot enough,

Nowadays the accessory sockets are plastic and don't have the clips to hold
a fag lighter in place, tho i am sure some still try,

The problem with the fag lighter socket is it is designed to short
intermittent loads, i.e. just like a fag lighter, and the sockets and plugs
tend to melt when subjected to continuous high loads... like a peltier
fridge, or tyre inflator compressor used to pump up 4 tyres from flat,

There is a much better designed plug and socket, the hella or din plug and
socket, found as standard on BMW motorcycles, often in the boots of larger
cars and used by the boaty types etc, it's a smaller version of the fag
lighter style plug and socket, but with much better contacts to prevent the
high resistance loose fag lighter plug and socket has... which causes the
heating and melting of the plugs.


Anyhoo, any standard fit accessory socket will be fused, quite a few are at
7.5 amps, but 10 amps is what they are supposed to be rated at, so some
get fused at that... which of course allows much more than 10 amps to be
pulled due to fuses not blowing the second 10.1 amps is drawn, and hence why
the sockets seem to melt before the fuse blows.


So check the plug and socket occasionally when using the compressor, and
give it a rest to cool down if you have to use it for a long time, but don't
worry about using it from the car's socket, that's what it's there for.

In article ,
MM wrote:
I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element.

The fag lighter is likely to take more current than any accessory. And
most accessory plugs have fuses in them - unlike the fag lighter.

--
*I got a job at a bakery because I kneaded dough.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:19:21 +0000 (UTC), Adrian wrote:

There's a fuse on the socket power feed, isn't there? We can, I think,
safely assume that the wiring is rated to withstand a load that's below
the fuse's rating.

"below" ???

--

Depends on the starting current of the pump and how sensitive the psu is to
overload. I'd say try it and see. Surely the psu must have protection
against short circuits health and safety etc.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"MM" wrote in message
...
Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor
from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up manually at the
moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Cheers!

MM

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Depends on the starting current of the pump and how sensitive the psu is
to overload. I'd say try it and see. Surely the psu must have
protection against short circuits health and safety etc.

Yes - the output devices usually blow long before any risk of fire.

--
*I don't feel old. I don't feel anything until noon. Then it's time for my nap.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:44:24 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Depends on the starting current of the pump ...

Which can be reduced by starting the compressor off load, then attaching
the output line to the tyre.

Surely the psu must have protection against short circuits health and
safety etc.

Yes - the output devices usually blow long before any risk of fire.

Only when protected by a fast acting fuse.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:41:46 +0100, John Williamson
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:50:04 +0100, Tim+
wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor

I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W
elsewhere, I see the compressor is 85W

Why not run it from the car's cigar lighter? (with the engine running to
avoid flattening the battery).
+1. Can't quite see why you wouldn't want to just run it from your car's
battery.

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element. So now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that
effect, since the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

The element on a cigarette lighter is, IIRC, normally a couple of
hundred watts.

I'm glad I asked, because if the Halfords unit isn't powerful enough,
I'll just use the car's socket with the engine running.

The normal rating for the "accessory socket" is at least 10 amps,
probably 20. The actual rating should be in the manual, or you may need
to phone your local dealer.

You shouldn't need the engine running unless you run the compressor for
an hour or two, and as even the tyres on my Land Rover only take a
quarter of an hour from dead flat to running pressure...

Oh, well, that's good to know, too. Thanks.

MM

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:47:18 +0100, "Gazz" wrote:

I was worried about blowing the car's accessory socket. This isn't
actually a cigarette lighter any more. The Suzuki sales guy explained,
when I bought the car new in 2011, that Suzuki don't fit them any
more, because people were connecting all manner of accessories to them
when the socket was only rated high enough to heat the lighter's
element. So now Suzuki call it an accessory socket (or words to that
effect, since the actual owner handbook is in the car outside).

Basically what they are saying is the 'fag lighter socket' is now an
accessory socket, and not to be used for fag lighters, but rather 12 volt
accessories.... phone chargers, mini fridges, coffee pots, compressors,
vibrators etc (and yes, there are 12 volt accessory socket powered vibro's
for sale.. with the warning not to vibe and drive

The fag lighter used to consume around 10 amps, and of course got hot, so
the socket was metal and designed for the lighter to clip in whilst heating,
and pop out when hot enough,

Nowadays the accessory sockets are plastic and don't have the clips to hold
a fag lighter in place, tho i am sure some still try,

The problem with the fag lighter socket is it is designed to short
intermittent loads, i.e. just like a fag lighter, and the sockets and plugs
tend to melt when subjected to continuous high loads... like a peltier
fridge, or tyre inflator compressor used to pump up 4 tyres from flat,

There is a much better designed plug and socket, the hella or din plug and
socket, found as standard on BMW motorcycles, often in the boots of larger
cars and used by the boaty types etc, it's a smaller version of the fag
lighter style plug and socket, but with much better contacts to prevent the
high resistance loose fag lighter plug and socket has... which causes the
heating and melting of the plugs.


Anyhoo, any standard fit accessory socket will be fused, quite a few are at
7.5 amps, but 10 amps is what they are supposed to be rated at, so some
get fused at that... which of course allows much more than 10 amps to be
pulled due to fuses not blowing the second 10.1 amps is drawn, and hence why
the sockets seem to melt before the fuse blows.


So check the plug and socket occasionally when using the compressor, and
give it a rest to cool down if you have to use it for a long time, but don't
worry about using it from the car's socket, that's what it's there for.

Okey dokey. I wasn't planning on pumping up any tyres from flat, but
just pumping in a bit of air occasionally. After the heart op on 4th
March I cannot put any strain on the chest for another few months (up
to a year until the sternum is back to full strength). Besides, the
foot pump was always a pita to use, and now I have a good reason not
to use it! The pump compressor was only £10.45 from Amazon.

MM

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ...

In article ,
"Norbert Thistlethwaite" writes:


I bought a Clarke 910 jumper/compressor, after about 2 years, I was
unable
to charge the unit.

Lead Acid batteries need care.
Stick one on the shelf for 2 years, and it will likely be
dead, especially if it wasn't fully charged to start with.
I always try to recharge mine as soon as possible after use.
Flattening one is bad news too, for its longevity.
You need to periodically top it up, but overcharging (as
some of the cheap chargers which come with these can easily
do) will also wreck a SLA battery. I usually charge mine
from an accurate voltage and current limited bench supply,
and never used the wallwart which came with it and has no
voltage or current limiting (other than its own internal
resistance). Some come with crap batteries, as I said.

The jumper had good use for the first 12 months and was regularly charged.
When the old car was replaced, the Clarke 910 was little used.

It was only used for the occasional tyre topping up. Maybe the
battery-condition gauge was faulty and tyre use was a greater drain than
indicated.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:20:25 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:44:24 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Depends on the starting current of the pump ...

Which can be reduced by starting the compressor off load, then attaching
the output line to the tyre.

Surely the psu must have protection against short circuits health and
safety etc.

Yes - the output devices usually blow long before any risk of fire.

Only when protected by a fast acting fuse.

Update: Just received my electric tyre pump (Ring Automotive RAC610
12V Analogue Compressor) from Amazon! It works brilliantly. Highly
recommended. I plugged it into the "lighter"socket and used it with
the engine running. So much easier than the foot pump.

MM

In article ,
MM writes:

Update: Just received my electric tyre pump (Ring Automotive RAC610
12V Analogue Compressor) from Amazon! It works brilliantly. Highly
recommended. I plugged it into the "lighter"socket and used it with
the engine running. So much easier than the foot pump.

Next point - don't rely on the accuracy of any integral pressure
guage until you've cross-checked it with something you believe to
be accurate. I quickly wrote off a set of tyres by overinflating
them, due to the guage underreading.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
MM writes:

Update: Just received my electric tyre pump (Ring Automotive RAC610
12V Analogue Compressor) from Amazon! It works brilliantly. Highly
recommended. I plugged it into the "lighter"socket and used it with
the engine running. So much easier than the foot pump.

Next point - don't rely on the accuracy of any integral pressure
guage until you've cross-checked it with something you believe to
be accurate. I quickly wrote off a set of tyres by overinflating
them, due to the guage underreading.


Quickly? You must have hideously overinflated them! Did you not notice the
car feeling any different?

Tim

On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 at 7:33:05 AM UTC+1, MM wrote:
Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor
from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up manually at the
moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Cheers!

MM

The Halfords RL 816U will blow R8 which cannot be repaired because Halfords wont supply a circuit diagram and R8 is blown out of recognition. This happened while mine was running a Halfords cool box which is supposed to do. If you need to try it you may get away with it depending on the power required by the compressor, but in any case always start it with the compressor blowing into free air and not trying to oppose the tyre pressure.

On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 06:23:43 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 at 7:33:05 AM UTC+1, MM wrote:
Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue Compressor
from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up manually at the
moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords switching
power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Cheers!

MM

The Halfords RL 816U will blow R8 which cannot be repaired because Halfords wont supply a circuit diagram and R8 is blown out of recognition. This happened while mine was running a Halfords cool box which is supposed to do. If you need to try it you may get away with it depending on the power required by the compressor, but in any case always start it with the compressor blowing into free air and not trying to oppose the tyre pressure.

Rather an old post that you are replying to. I doubt 5A is enough for
an inflator. 7-10 Amps maybe.

--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

Graham. wrote:

Rather an old post that you are replying to. I doubt 5A is enough for
an inflator. 7-10 Amps maybe.

The trick of course is to attach the power supply to the battery and use
the car lighter socket; the battery thereby acting as a buffer.

The other trick is to read post header dates ;-)

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On Wed, 08 Jul 2015 14:56:40 +0100
Graham. wrote:

On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 06:23:43 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 at 7:33:05 AM UTC+1, MM wrote:
Yesterday I ordered a Ring Automotive RAC610 12V Analogue
Compressor from Amazon, because I cannot pump my car tyres up
manually at the moment due to recovery from an operation.

It so happens that about three years ago I bought a Halfords
switching power supply model RL-816U, with the following spec:

AC Input: 220-240V ~ 50Hz 0.7A
DC Output: 13.6V +/- 5A 68W

The power connector is just like the cigarette lighter in a car.

So I reckon, instead of plugging the tyre pump into the in-car
cigarette lighter socket, I should be able to plug it into the
Halfords unit instead.

Anyone see a problem with this plan?

Cheers!

MM

The Halfords RL 816U will blow R8 which cannot be repaired because
Halfords wont supply a circuit diagram and R8 is blown out of
recognition. This happened while mine was running a Halfords cool
box which is supposed to do. If you need to try it you may get away
with it depending on the power required by the compressor, but in
any case always start it with the compressor blowing into free air
and not trying to oppose the tyre pressure.

Rather an old post that you are replying to. I doubt 5A is enough for
an inflator. 7-10 Amps maybe.


I recently made up an extension cable so that I could use my car's
lighter socket for the inflator deep in the garage, for a stored car.
The supplied 3A fuse blew after a few minutes, the replacement 4A one
did not. Luckily, as that was the only one of that small size (6 x 20mm)
that I had.
Your experience etc etc.

--
Davey.

On Wednesday, 8 July 2015 14:23:47 UTC+1, wrote:

The Halfords RL 816U will blow R8 which cannot be repaired because Halfords wont supply a circuit diagram and R8 is blown out of recognition. This happened while mine was running a Halfords cool box which is supposed to do.. If you need to try it you may get away with it depending on the power required by the compressor, but in any case always start it with the compressor blowing into free air and not trying to oppose the tyre pressure.

Look at the circuit & work out what R8 should be. You don't normally need a circuit diagram.


NT