Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.


New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

On 04/12/2012 22:46, Tim Watts wrote:
Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.


New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Maybe clip a short length of one end down and slide it under the next
piece before clipping the rest down?

SteveW

On Dec 4, 10:46*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.

New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

--
Tim Watts * * * * * * * * Personal Blog:http://www.dionic..net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

Prise the longest ones out first from the middle (ie bending them)?

On Dec 4, 10:46*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.

New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

Fit the shortest (rather than top/bottom) first, then spring the
longer pieces in by bending. I usually find reading the instructions
that come with the windows helps as well.

MBQ

Man at B&Q wrote:

On Dec 4, 10:46 pm, Tim Watts wrote:
Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get
top + bottom in first, then the sides.

New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps
on a the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every
bead has a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other
neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

Fit the shortest (rather than top/bottom) first, then spring the
longer pieces in by bending. I usually find reading the instructions
that come with the windows helps as well.

MBQ

Thank you sir,

That sounds like a good plan of attack.

I'm putting the frames in as soon as the roofers have done their leadwork -
then I'll be glazing.

I think I will toe+heel and put 2 beads in each pane just to get the holes
all closed off.

Then I can tit about with the long pieces which might be more fiddly.


Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject."

On Dec 5, 6:42 am, harry wrote:
On Dec 4, 10:46 pm, Tim Watts wrote:



Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.

New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog:http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

Prise the longest ones out first from the middle (ie bending them)?

he's trying to get them IN you tit

Jim K

On Dec 5, 2:18*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Dec 5, 6:42 am, harry wrote:









On Dec 4, 10:46 pm, Tim Watts wrote:

Hmm - slightly confused...

Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
+ bottom in first, then the sides.

New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.

Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a
the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has
a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.

Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?

Cheers,
Tim

--
Tim Watts * * * * * * * * Personal Blog:http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

Prise the longest ones out first from the middle (ie bending them)?

he's trying to get them IN you tit

Jim K

Reverse the process. Not difficult.

Jim K wrote:


he's trying to get them IN you tit

That is true. Tomorrow as it turns out.

I removed 2 old windows, the roofers removed the other 2. They have done
little lead cill trays for all 4 and I have mounted the frames - by which
time it was 4pm. Luckily I had the foresight to buy a big sheet of 150
micron sheeting just for the occasion of covering unglazed windows

Typically, as these things go, I enquired of the roofers how they would like
the frames mounted (positioning forward/backwards). They said "frames
18-24mm pround of the outside edge of the timber framed wall would be good,
so the verge between the vertical tiles and the frame in minimised".

This led to my pre-drilled holes and thus screws being within 10-15mm of the
outside edge of the timbers. I am not 100% happy about that - bit close IMO,
so I will add another 4 screws per window (2 each side) set and angled back
to get a better bearing, because I am Mr Over-Engineering.

Could do with a little extra stiffness anyway (pre foaming, which will help
more) as I have been "forbidden" from sticking screws down through the lead
under-cill tray. This is not unreasonable as there was some rot there due to
the previous tray not being done properly. Only 1.2m wide frames and they
are full of steel so should be OK.

Anyway, should be able to wrap this up tomorrow. 12 DG panels to glaze in.

I did ring windowsanddoors.co.uk about the beading design, but they were a
bit unhelpful. Trial and error I suppose.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."