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Default Equipotential bonding

Read the Wiki, just need to double check.

Whole house re-plumb in plastic.
So (apart from directly around the combi) there shouldn't be any metal in
the hot and cold plumbing until you get to the taps.
So in turn I assume that there is no bonding requirement for the H&C system
as there seems no way that a faulty earth in an appliance (including
bathroom lighting etc.) can cause current to flow through a person to earth
via taps or water pipes.

Majority of the CH will be in plastic - the only copper is likely to be the
incoming gas main up to the combi, a short run of 15mm pipe at entry/exit to
the combi, and probably short tails on the radiators going below floor to
join the plastic main piping for flow and return.

So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the entry
into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the outside wall).
Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.
Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.
Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a gas pipe
(or the hob?) in the kitchen.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?
With all plastic the traditional problem of routes to earth being created by
metal gas and water pipes seem to have gone away.

Cheers

Dave R

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Owain wrote:
On Sep 1, 11:25 am, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the
entry into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the
outside wall).


Yes.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


No. The electrics are earthed by the circuit protective conductor to
the main earth terminal, and the gas pipe is bonded to the main earth
terminal. The boiler, if it requires earthing, will be earthed by the
circuit protective conductor.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


No.

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a
gas pipe (or the hob?) in the kitchen.


No.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


No, according to 17th Edition.

If your bathroom wiring is to 16th Edition (i.e. not all circuits are
RCD) then you may need to equipotentially bond for the bathroom.

And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm..O.K. - for the combi and the hob I thought I was protecting against an
earth fault in the wiring to the device (something as simple as the earth
lead coming out of the socket), a break in the earth wiring somewhere in the
circuit, or a faulty earth connection at the CU removing earth protection
from the device, and then a subsequent fault rendering the device live but
not tripping the breaker. So that when someone touched the device and the
gas pipe, a new route to earth was created via the person, leading to a
radical new hairstyle.

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Default Equipotential bonding

Owain wrote:
On Sep 1, 11:25 am, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the
entry into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the
outside wall).


Yes.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


No. The electrics are earthed by the circuit protective conductor to
the main earth terminal, and the gas pipe is bonded to the main earth
terminal. The boiler, if it requires earthing, will be earthed by the
circuit protective conductor.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


No.

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a
gas pipe (or the hob?) in the kitchen.


No.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


No, according to 17th Edition.

If your bathroom wiring is to 16th Edition (i.e. not all circuits are
RCD) then you may need to equipotentially bond for the bathroom.

And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Would you mind if I copy and pasted your reply?

That is what I was going to post.
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Default Equipotential bonding

In article
..com, Owain scribeth thus
On Sep 1, 11:25*am, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the entry
into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the outside wall).


Yes.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


No. The electrics are earthed by the circuit protective conductor to
the main earth terminal, and the gas pipe is bonded to the main earth
terminal. The boiler, if it requires earthing, will be earthed by the
circuit protective conductor.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


No.

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a gas pipe
(or the hob?) in the kitchen.


No.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


No, according to 17th Edition.

If your bathroom wiring is to 16th Edition (i.e. not all circuits are
RCD) then you may need to equipotentially bond for the bathroom.




And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..

Owain


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Default Equipotential bonding

tony sayer wrote:
In article
.com,
Owain scribeth thus
On Sep 1, 11:25 am, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to
the entry into the property as possible (by the meter which is on
the outside wall).


Yes.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas
pipe.


No. The electrics are earthed by the circuit protective conductor to
the main earth terminal, and the gas pipe is bonded to the main
earth terminal. The boiler, if it requires earthing, will be
earthed by the circuit protective conductor.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


No.

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of
a gas pipe (or the hob?) in the kitchen.


No.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


No, according to 17th Edition.

If your bathroom wiring is to 16th Edition (i.e. not all circuits
are RCD) then you may need to equipotentially bond for the bathroom.




And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


I can only speak for the 16th edition and Doncaster council. They completely
ignored the 16th edition rules and bonded everything. As I am no no longer
allowed to work for them I have no idea what they do with the 17th edition
rules.

Barnsley council seem to follow the 17th edition.

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Default Equipotential bonding

On 01/09/2012 11:24, David WE Roberts wrote:
Read the Wiki, just need to double check.

Whole house re-plumb in plastic.
So (apart from directly around the combi) there shouldn't be any metal in
the hot and cold plumbing until you get to the taps.
So in turn I assume that there is no bonding requirement for the H&C system
as there seems no way that a faulty earth in an appliance (including
bathroom lighting etc.) can cause current to flow through a person to earth
via taps or water pipes.


Yup. The fundamental question is "can the thing introduce a potential
into the equipotential zone", so cosmetic stubs of metal pipe in an all
plastic system can't.

Majority of the CH will be in plastic - the only copper is likely to be the
incoming gas main up to the combi, a short run of 15mm pipe at entry/exit to
the combi, and probably short tails on the radiators going below floor to
join the plastic main piping for flow and return.


The main EQ bonding should be in place - so gas main where it enters,
and water main if it does so in metal.

So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the entry
into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the outside wall).


Generally yes. Sometimes the connection is made on the consumers
pipework in the meter box itself. On installs like mine where the meter
feeds 14m of underground plastic pipe before it enters the building, it
is done where it transitions to copper as it enters.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


Is the combi in a bath or shower room? If not it sounds like there is
not much requirement to bond the combi to anything.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


Can't think why...

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a gas pipe
(or the hob?) in the kitchen.


EQ bonding is not generally required in a kitchen since its not an area
of special risk (you are less likely to be wet and naked one generally
assumes ;-)

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


Not that jumps out at me...

With all plastic the traditional problem of routes to earth being created by
metal gas and water pipes seem to have gone away.


Indeed.


--
Cheers,

John.

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Default Equipotential bonding

On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article
.com, Owain scribeth thus


And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make the
"rules"...




--
Cheers,

John.

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Default Equipotential bonding

John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article

.com, Owain scribeth thus


And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the
individual hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make
the "rules"...


Name one:-)

--
Adam


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Owain wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:12 pm, "ARW" wrote:
Would you mind if I copy and pasted your reply?


Feel free :-)

That is what I was going to post.


Great minds, etc.

Owain

On Sep 1, 11:25 am, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the entry
into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the outside wall).


Yes.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


No. The electrics are earthed by the circuit protective conductor to
the main earth terminal, and the gas pipe is bonded to the main earth
terminal. The boiler, if it requires earthing, will be earthed by the
circuit protective conductor.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


No.

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a gas
pipe
(or the hob?) in the kitchen.


No.

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


No, according to 17th Edition.

If your bathroom wiring is to 16th Edition (i.e. not all circuits are
RCD) then you may need to equipotentially bond for the bathroom.

And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


--
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In article ,
John Rumm writes:
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article
.com, Owain scribeth thus


And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make the
"rules"...


and, because they're always spending someone else's money (yours).

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Default Equipotential bonding

John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 11:24, David WE Roberts wrote:
Read the Wiki, just need to double check.

Whole house re-plumb in plastic.
So (apart from directly around the combi) there shouldn't be any
metal in the hot and cold plumbing until you get to the taps.
So in turn I assume that there is no bonding requirement for the H&C
system as there seems no way that a faulty earth in an appliance
(including bathroom lighting etc.) can cause current to flow through
a person to earth via taps or water pipes.


Yup. The fundamental question is "can the thing introduce a
potential into the equipotential zone", so cosmetic stubs of metal
pipe in an all plastic system can't.

Majority of the CH will be in plastic - the only copper is likely to
be the incoming gas main up to the combi, a short run of 15mm pipe
at entry/exit to the combi, and probably short tails on the
radiators going below floor to join the plastic main piping for flow
and return.


The main EQ bonding should be in place - so gas main where it enters,
and water main if it does so in metal.

So earth at the CU should be bonded to the gas pipe as close to the
entry into the property as possible (by the meter which is on the
outside wall).


Generally yes. Sometimes the connection is made on the consumers
pipework in the meter box itself. On installs like mine where the
meter feeds 14m of underground plastic pipe before it enters the
building, it is done where it transitions to copper as it enters.

Electrics around the combi should be bonded to the copper gas pipe.


Is the combi in a bath or shower room? If not it sounds like there is
not much requirement to bond the combi to anything.

Oh, and the gas hob should be bonded to the gas pipe as well.


Can't think why...

Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a
gas pipe (or the hob?) in the kitchen.


EQ bonding is not generally required in a kitchen since its not an
area of special risk (you are less likely to be wet and naked one
generally assumes ;-)

Is there anything else that should be bonded?


Not that jumps out at me...

With all plastic the traditional problem of routes to earth being
created by metal gas and water pipes seem to have gone away.


Indeed.


Ah - of course - I was applying the rules/logic to the whole house when it
is only applicable to the bathroom.
Hmmm.....rushes naked and cold and wet from the bathroom to beat the combi
boiler back into life.....
....and we used to bathe the kids in the kitchen sink when they were very
little......
Perhaps not entirely logical but rules is rules :-)

Thanks

Dave R

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Default Equipotential bonding

On Sat, 01 Sep 2012 13:30:55 +0100, ARW wrote:

I can only speak for the 16th edition and Doncaster council. They
completely ignored the 16th edition rules and bonded everything. As I am
no no longer allowed to work for them


The council leader's wife? Or someone else?

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On 01/09/2012 14:09, ARW wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article

.com, Owain scribeth thus


And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the
individual hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make
the "rules"...


Name one:-)


A jobsworth or a rule?

The latter would be easy - EQ bonding metal sinks and baths, or
insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room etc.

As for jobsworths, I try to keep away from them!


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 01/09/2012 18:23, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 14:09, ARW wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article

.com, Owain scribeth thus

And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the
individual hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..

Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make
the "rules"...


Name one:-)


A jobsworth or a rule?

The latter would be easy - EQ bonding metal sinks and baths, or
insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room etc.

As for jobsworths, I try to keep away from them!


Although with hindsight - could you be thinking of a certain Mr. B?

;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 18:23, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 14:09, ARW wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article

.com, Owain scribeth thus

And the regulations are different for council houses. For
council houses it's compulsory to earth everything
(including the individual hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..

Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to
make the "rules"...

Name one:-)


A jobsworth or a rule?

The latter would be easy - EQ bonding metal sinks and baths, or
insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room
etc. As for jobsworths, I try to keep away from them!


Although with hindsight - could you be thinking of a certain Mr. B?

;-)



:-):-):-)

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In article , John
Rumm scribeth thus
On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:
In article
.com, Owain scribeth thus


And the regulations are different for council houses. For council
houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the individual
hot and cold taps). :-)


Umm ... why?..


Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make the
"rules"...




Understooded prefeckly ....
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On Saturday, 1 September 2012 18:23:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/09/2012 14:09, ARW wrote:

John Rumm wrote:


On 01/09/2012 12:19, tony sayer wrote:


In article




.com, Owain scribeth thus




And the regulations are different for council houses. For council


houses it's compulsory to earth everything (including the


individual hot and cold taps). :-)






Umm ... why?..




Because council jobsworths with no actual understanding, get to make


the "rules"...




Name one:-)




A jobsworth or a rule?



The latter would be easy - EQ bonding metal sinks and baths, or

insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room etc.


Regarding supplementary bonding being visible: does this mean that
the tagged bonding clamps you get for metal pipes etc have to be in plain sight according to the regs? I ask because I had this conversation with someone about equipotential bonding in a bathroom and I offered the opinion that this was indeed what the regs said. He said he didn't care what the regs said, it made the finish look sh!t and he wasn't having it. The bonding tags were duly applied below the floorboards, out of sight...and not, as far as I knew, to the regs. FWIW I think he had the right attitude ;0)


As for jobsworths, I try to keep away from them!





--

Cheers,



John.



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On 02/09/2012 03:08, wrote:
On Saturday, 1 September 2012 18:23:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:


insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room
etc.


Regarding supplementary bonding being visible: does this mean that
the tagged bonding clamps you get for metal pipes etc have to be in
plain sight according to the regs? I ask because I had this
conversation with someone about equipotential bonding in a bathroom
and I offered the opinion that this was indeed what the regs said. He
said he didn't care what the regs said, it made the finish look sh!t
and he wasn't having it. The bonding tags were duly applied below the
floorboards, out of sight...and not, as far as I knew, to the regs.
FWIW I think he had the right attitude ;0)


There is no requirement for the bonding clamps to be even in the room.
They need to be *close* to the point the potential of which you are
trying to limit for obvious reasons, but can be in adjacent rooms, in
cupboards, under the floor, in the loft space etc. Its the function that
is important. The "do not remove" tags should be visible on/near each
connection though.

If making the connections less visible, then its worth keeping detailed
notes, otherwise there is a danger that someone will assume they are
simply not there at a future inspection.

The alternative to make life simpler is just to follow the 17th edition
requirements (all circuits that enter the zone are 30mA RCD protected,
and the main EQ bonding is in place), then you don't need supplementary
bonding at all.


--
Cheers,

John.

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"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 02/09/2012 03:08, wrote:
On Saturday, 1 September 2012 18:23:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:


insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room
etc.


Regarding supplementary bonding being visible: does this mean that
the tagged bonding clamps you get for metal pipes etc have to be in
plain sight according to the regs? I ask because I had this
conversation with someone about equipotential bonding in a bathroom
and I offered the opinion that this was indeed what the regs said. He
said he didn't care what the regs said, it made the finish look sh!t
and he wasn't having it. The bonding tags were duly applied below the
floorboards, out of sight...and not, as far as I knew, to the regs.
FWIW I think he had the right attitude ;0)


There is no requirement for the bonding clamps to be even in the room.
They need to be *close* to the point the potential of which you are trying
to limit for obvious reasons, but can be in adjacent rooms, in cupboards,
under the floor, in the loft space etc. Its the function that is
important. The "do not remove" tags should be visible on/near each
connection though.

If making the connections less visible, then its worth keeping detailed
notes, otherwise there is a danger that someone will assume they are
simply not there at a future inspection.

The alternative to make life simpler is just to follow the 17th edition
requirements (all circuits that enter the zone are 30mA RCD protected, and
the main EQ bonding is in place), then you don't need supplementary
bonding at all.



Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in another
thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?

Cheers

Dave R
--
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[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

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The latter would be easy - EQ bonding metal sinks and baths, or

insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room
etc.


Regarding supplementary bonding being visible: does this mean that
the tagged bonding clamps you get for metal pipes etc have to be in
plain sight according to the regs? I ask because I had this
conversation with someone about equipotential bonding in a bathroom
and I offered the opinion that this was indeed what the regs said. He
said he didn't care what the regs said, it made the finish look sh!t
and he wasn't having it. The bonding tags were duly applied below the
floorboards, out of sight...and not, as far as I knew, to the regs.
FWIW I think he had the right attitude ;0)


Of course any future inspections would assume there was no bonding.


Had this very thing here under the floorboard and now the carefully laid
covering but there are a few dated photos, close up ones too so it can
be seen.

Would that be good enough for an inspector?..
--
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On 02/09/2012 13:02, David WE Roberts wrote:

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 02/09/2012 03:08, wrote:
On Saturday, 1 September 2012 18:23:17 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:


insisting that supplementary bonding must be visible in the room
etc.

Regarding supplementary bonding being visible: does this mean that
the tagged bonding clamps you get for metal pipes etc have to be in
plain sight according to the regs? I ask because I had this
conversation with someone about equipotential bonding in a bathroom
and I offered the opinion that this was indeed what the regs said. He
said he didn't care what the regs said, it made the finish look sh!t
and he wasn't having it. The bonding tags were duly applied below the
floorboards, out of sight...and not, as far as I knew, to the regs.
FWIW I think he had the right attitude ;0)


There is no requirement for the bonding clamps to be even in the room.
They need to be *close* to the point the potential of which you are
trying to limit for obvious reasons, but can be in adjacent rooms, in
cupboards, under the floor, in the loft space etc. Its the function
that is important. The "do not remove" tags should be visible on/near
each connection though.

If making the connections less visible, then its worth keeping
detailed notes, otherwise there is a danger that someone will assume
they are simply not there at a future inspection.

The alternative to make life simpler is just to follow the 17th
edition requirements (all circuits that enter the zone are 30mA RCD
protected, and the main EQ bonding is in place), then you don't need
supplementary bonding at all.



Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


Yup that's fine. A RCBO is just a MCB with built in RCD. So if you have
a all RCBO CU you have as many RCDs as you have circuits. As long as
those protecting all the circuits that are used in the bathroom are 30mA
trip ones, then you are fine (with the required main EQ bonding in place)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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http://www.internode.co.uk |
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David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD CU.

--
Adam


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In article , ARW
o.uk scribeth thus
David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD CU.


What's the typical price of RCBO's now of a decent make?..

--
Tony Sayer

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tony sayer wrote:
In article , ARW
o.uk scribeth thus
David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD
CU.


What's the typical price of RCBO's now of a decent make?..


£25 for Hager. Who I consider to be the market leader in quality. Possibly a
little more if you do not have an account at an electrical wholesalers. MK
are cheaper at most places but MK is no longer what it used to be.



--
Adam




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On Sep 3, 9:36*pm, "ARW" wrote:
MK is no longer what it used to be.


Is that MK, or MK made-outside-the-UK MK? I've heard both.
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"ARW" wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD CU.



Over 50% of the house is being rewired and I am having a new CU.
So nearly everything will go on RCBOs.
Up to 12 circuits at the moment so this is likely to be a bit expensive, but
worth it in the long run.

As discussed in another thread, the main reason for RCBOs is to avoid taking
out the whole CU (or half for a split CU) with an earth/neutral fault when
working on an individual socket or light fitting.
I am trying to plan ahead and make the next 10-20 years as easy as possible.

Fridge/freezer on own circuit.
CH on own circuit.

Planning to move the existing CU down to the shed but won't be using most of
it.

Cheers


Dave R.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

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On 2012-09-01, John Rumm wrote:

On 01/09/2012 11:24, David WE Roberts wrote:


Probably anything electrical in theoretical touching distance of a gas pipe
(or the hob?) in the kitchen.


EQ bonding is not generally required in a kitchen since its not an area
of special risk (you are less likely to be wet and naked one generally
assumes ;-)


So the regulations need to be interpreted differently in a naturist
colony? ;-)
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On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD CU.


Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a dual
RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?
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Adam Funk wrote:
On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?


What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD
CU.


Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a dual
RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?


Just fitted this in a new build house today:-)


http://www.thlsolutions.co.uk/store/...h-edition.html

Plus the phase conversion kit. It's only a single phase supply to the house.

As a general rule I aways give the smokes their own independant RCBO.

--
Adam




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Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sep 3, 9:36 pm, "ARW" wrote:
MK is no longer what it used to be.


Is that MK, or MK made-outside-the-UK MK? I've heard both.


I have no idea where the stuff in the wholesalers is made.

--
Adam


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On 2012-09-04 17:30:59 +0000, ARW said:

Adam Funk wrote:
On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?

What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD
CU.


Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a dual
RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?


Just fitted this in a new build house today:-)


http://www.thlsolutions.co.uk/store/...h-edition.html


Plus the phase conversion kit. It's only a single phase supply to the house.

As a general rule I aways give the smokes their own independant RCBO.


Yes, I fitted one of these (actually a slightly larger version) a while
ago along with the single phase conversion kit, and have RCBOs for each
circuit. I love the space inside for wiring up compared to a normal CU.

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Piers Finlayson wrote:
On 2012-09-04 17:30:59 +0000, ARW said:

Adam Funk wrote:
On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as
discussed in another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom
areas? IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?

What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual
RCD CU.

Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a
dual RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?


Just fitted this in a new build house today:-)


http://www.thlsolutions.co.uk/store/...h-edition.html


Plus the phase conversion kit. It's only a single phase supply to
the house. As a general rule I aways give the smokes their own
independant
RCBO.


Yes, I fitted one of these (actually a slightly larger version) a
while ago along with the single phase conversion kit, and have RCBOs
for each circuit. I love the space inside for wiring up compared to
a normal CU.


This one is not all RCBOs. The electric gate, door entry, alarm, boiler and
CH are just using MCBs.

What is REALLY needed is a bus bar that supplies RCBOs with both the live
and neutral connections so that you could just slot the RCBO into place and
then just connect the circuit wires to the RCBO.


--
Adam


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In article , Piers Finlayson
scribeth thus
On 2012-09-04 17:30:59 +0000, ARW said:

Adam Funk wrote:
On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as discussed in
another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?

What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual RCD
CU.

Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a dual
RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?


Just fitted this in a new build house today:-)


http://www.thlsolutions.co.uk/store/...3-12-Way-125A-

TP%26N-Distribution-Board-17th-edition.html


Plus the phase conversion kit. It's only a single phase supply to the house.




As a general rule I aways give the smokes their own independant RCBO.


Yes, I fitted one of these (actually a slightly larger version) a while
ago along with the single phase conversion kit, and have RCBOs for each
circuit. I love the space inside for wiring up compared to a normal CU.


Just a point. Is that a good thing in that say the RCBO on the smoke
detect system fails how would anyone know just that circuits out?..

If its tagged across the ring main or lights then its quite obvious that
the circuit has gone down...

Y/N ?..
--
Tony Sayer

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tony sayer wrote:
In article , Piers Finlayson
scribeth thus
On 2012-09-04 17:30:59 +0000, ARW said:

Adam Funk wrote:
On 2012-09-03, ARW wrote:

David WE Roberts wrote:

Just to check something - if I am going for RCBOs as
discussed in another thread, are these O.K. for bathroom
areas?
IIRC RCBOs are RCDs and a bit more?

What circuits are you planning on the rewire?

And it is nice to see someone using RCBOs and not just a dual
RCD CU.

Sure, but most builders (especially for new houses) just use a
dual RCD CU because it's the cheapest way to comply, isn't it?

Just fitted this in a new build house today:-)


http://www.thlsolutions.co.uk/store/...3-12-Way-125A-

TP%26N-Distribution-Board-17th-edition.html


Plus the phase conversion kit. It's only a single phase supply to
the house.




As a general rule I aways give the smokes their own independant
RCBO.


Yes, I fitted one of these (actually a slightly larger version) a
while ago along with the single phase conversion kit, and have
RCBOs for each circuit. I love the space inside for wiring up
compared to a normal CU.


Just a point. Is that a good thing in that say the RCBO on the smoke
detect system fails how would anyone know just that circuits out?..

If its tagged across the ring main or lights then its quite obvious
that the circuit has gone down...

Y/N ?..


I have no problem putting the smokes on the RBCO with the upstairs lights.
And I have long argued that for **** hole rented properties that the smoke
detectors should be on the same circuit as the TV.

Battery backed up smoke detectors are pretty good on ANY circuit IMHO
opinion.

--
Adam


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