We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted, and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh, but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

"chris French" wrote in message
...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
k...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few
minutes, I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body
filler paste) for such a purpose.
--
Ian

In message , Ian Jackson
writes
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
. uk...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few
minutes, I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body
filler paste) for such a purpose.

Ah yes, now I should have thought of that, seeing as I have a tub of
Isopon I've been using for wood filling :-)

Mr Pounder - the putty has been in best part of a year in a south
facing window - whilst not hard, it certainly is firm enough to make
removal harder than 'very easy' - it would take a lot longer to remove
and reputty IMO than to fill a some cracks. It's also an old Victorian
window with stained glass and the glass cracks easily - some panes with
a glass I've not yet been able to source a suitable replacement for
yet.

And if it was just a normal sized window I might well do it, but it's a
bit more of a job than a couple of panes.... :-)

http://tinypic.com/r/esoxg3/7


--
Chris French

On 31/07/11 21:49, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few
minutes, I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body
filler paste) for such a purpose.
Isnt car body filler too hard for this job?
Wouldnt external flexible frame filler be better?
[g]

In message , "george [dicegeorge]"
writes
On 31/07/11 21:49, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few
minutes, I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body
filler paste) for such a purpose.

Isnt car body filler too hard for this job?
Wouldnt external flexible frame filler be better?
[g]

If it's only filling cracks, it probably doesn't matter. Anyway, I'm
pretty sure that Plastic Padding is available both as soft (plastic) and
hard (like Isopon and most others). Either type should do.
--
Ian

In message , "george [dicegeorge]"
writes
On 31/07/11 21:49, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few
minutes, I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body
filler paste) for such a purpose.


Isnt car body filler too hard for this job?
Wouldnt external flexible frame filler be better?

not sure what you are meaning by flexible frame filler? do you mean the
sealant type stuff?

Car body works fine as a wood filler - is basically the same stuff as
the two part 'external' wood fillers
--
Chris French

"chris French" wrote in message
...
In message , Ian Jackson
writes
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
.uk...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.

So before painting I want to do something about the cracks. I wondered
about mixing up some putty with some more linseed oil so make something
softer/runnier and working that into the cracks first?

Or any other better suggestions?
--
Chris French

The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it
in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few minutes,
I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body filler
paste) for such a purpose.

Ah yes, now I should have thought of that, seeing as I have a tub of
Isopon I've been using for wood filling :-)

Mr Pounder - the putty has been in best part of a year in a south facing
window - whilst not hard, it certainly is firm enough to make removal
harder than 'very easy' - it would take a lot longer to remove and reputty
IMO than to fill a some cracks. It's also an old Victorian window with
stained glass and the glass cracks easily - some panes with a glass I've
not yet been able to source a suitable replacement for yet.

You did not tell us that.

And if it was just a normal sized window I might well do it, but it's a
bit more of a job than a couple of panes.... :-)

http://tinypic.com/r/esoxg3/7


--
Chris French

In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
k...
In message , Ian Jackson
writes
In message , Mr Pounder
writes

"chris French" wrote in message
o.uk...
We have a window, where some of the putty was replaced last year (with
standard linseed putty). for various reasons though it never got
painted,
and so of course the putty cracked as it dried.

In an ideal world I would no doubt remove it again and re-putty in
fresh,
but that ain't gonna happen.


The putty will come out very easily. Why botch it when you can redo it
in
the same time as the botch up?

Rather than putty and linseed oil, you could use a mixture of putty and
the correct colour oil-based paint. However, as it hardens in few minutes,
I'm pretty sure I've used Plastic Padding (or similar car body filler
paste) for such a purpose.

Ah yes, now I should have thought of that, seeing as I have a tub of
Isopon I've been using for wood filling :-)

Mr Pounder - the putty has been in best part of a year in a south facing
window - whilst not hard, it certainly is firm enough to make removal
harder than 'very easy' - it would take a lot longer to remove and reputty
IMO than to fill a some cracks. It's also an old Victorian window with
stained glass and the glass cracks easily - some panes with a glass I've
not yet been able to source a suitable replacement for yet.

You did not tell us that.


No I didn't, I decided to keep the question short and sweet, and just
say that reputting wasn't going to happen
--
Chris French

not sure what you are meaning by flexible frame filler? do you mean the
sealant type stuff?
its a tube of stuff for about £5 to go in a gun
like the dozens of other types - silicon, gutter guard, glue etc
but its called flexible frame filler
I use it between wooden window frames and walls,
the flexible-ness could be better than car body filler
for patching cracks in putty.

I use car body filler to patch the wooden frames.

[g]

In message , "george [dicegeorge]"
writes


not sure what you are meaning by flexible frame filler? do you mean the
sealant type stuff?
its a tube of stuff for about £5 to go in a gun
like the dozens of other types - silicon, gutter guard, glue etc
but its called flexible frame filler
I use it between wooden window frames and walls,
the flexible-ness could be better than car body filler
for patching cracks in putty.

For parching up cracks in putty, acrylic sealant and similar is probably
a good alternative to car body filler, but you'll need to wait a day or
two before you can paint it.

I use car body filler to patch the wooden frames.

I have a fair amount of car body filler in the bottom of my garage doors
(which were going rotten). The repairs will probably outlast the rest of
the wood. The secret is using a mix of paste and resin - depending on
how runny you want the filler to be, and if you want to try to get it to
penetrate some of the not-too-rotten wood (so-called 'wood hardener'
being pretty well useless for this purpose).
--
Ian

If it is just a fine crack, scrap out a wedge and refill with putty.
Do remember putty on the bottom & seal between the paint and glass
matters most, the rest can be cracked and falling off. If a gap opens
between the putty & glass it will serve to retain glass borne water
and very rapidly rot through.
Putty is quite tolerant of cracks if painted with a good alkyd
undercoat & gloss, it fills them quite well.

Never apply a filler without first applying wood hardener. The wood
hardener stabilises the wood from shrinking away from the filler and
gives it something to bond to. Just check the next year nothing has
opened, you can repair very severe rot in foggy saturated November
with wood hardener but the following spring it can open a little
around the filler, pipette in more wood hardener and all is happy
thereafter.

Ensure the paint used is compatible with linseed oil putty, Trade
Weathershield is however overcoatable paints like Sikkens Rubbol
Undercoat & Rubbol do not adhere well to it (chips off or even falls
off). Frame sealers can be more successful, but check for
compatibility. The downside of Weathershield is it retains water
underneath in its final year(s), I have watched relatively high
moisture content pine rot in a couple of years with Weathershield as
it forms a plastic bag of water, whereas the alternate timber above
painted in sikkens Rubbol Undercoat & Rubbol actually went to low
moisture content over the same period as it could breathe much better.

Very nice window and the brick arch & pointing are in great condition.