Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain as
part of the deal.
It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a
matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there something
else I need to look out for?

mark

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

mark wrote:
I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain as
part of the deal.
It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a
matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there something
else I need to look out for?

mark



There are a number of parameters so get a chain that is specified for
the model of saw you are using.
There are a number of suppliers on ebay who have application info on
their sites. if you can't find the make, then as well as length and
number of links, do check the width of the slot that the chain runs in
is the same otherwise the new chain might jam or be too slack.

Be aware that a chain usually needs sharpening regularly in use. if the
saw is not producing small curly shavings but produces dust instead, the
the chain needs a quick touch with a the correct diameter round file.
The owner of the saw should have one and be able to show you how to use it.

Be safe!

Bob

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

In message , mark
writes
I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain as
part of the deal.
It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a
matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there something
else I need to look out for?

Find a local lawnmower repair shop and ask if they handle chain saws as
well.

I can recommend Taylors Tools at Kings Langley, Herts. Normally they
count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two
ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)

Worth checking the bar while you have the thing in bits. The work edge
may have significant *burrs* either side of the slot which should be
carefully flat filed off. Most chain saw bars are reversible.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

Tim Lamb wrote:

Normally they
count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two
ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)


It's normally the drive link count, the bit that sits in the slot.

You need to know the pitch of the chain, distance between two rivets, .325
and 3/8 are most common, .404 on big saws and I cannot remember the little
size for smaller saws.

Also note the width of the slot in the bar varies.

All these sizes are noramlly marked on the bar, often near the chain
adjuster.

AJH

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

In message , andrew
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

Normally they
count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two
ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)


It's normally the drive link count, the bit that sits in the slot.

You need to know the pitch of the chain, distance between two rivets, .325
and 3/8 are most common, .404 on big saws and I cannot remember the little
size for smaller saws.

Also note the width of the slot in the bar varies.

All these sizes are noramlly marked on the bar, often near the chain
adjuster.

And the drive link is normally stamped with part/size details.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

On Mar 29, 8:00*pm, andrew wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Normally they
count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two
ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)

It's normally the drive link count, the bit that sits in the slot.

You need to know the pitch of the chain, distance between two rivets, .325
and 3/8 are most common, .404 on big saws and I cannot remember the little
size for smaller saws.

Also note the width of the slot in the bar varies.

All these sizes are noramlly marked on the bar, often near the chain
adjuster.

AJH

This is all very unwise IMO. I would never lend my chain saw because
of the real hazard to any user of the blade failing and causing
serious personal damage. Likewise if you now fit a new blade and
something goes wrong, you would be responsible for any injury.

If the deal is to fit an new blade, then get it done professionally -
clearly the lender for instance has not even offered you the handbook,
which would at least mitigate some of your responsibility.

Rob

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

In article
,
robgraham wrote:

This is all very unwise IMO. I would never lend my chain saw because
of the real hazard to any user of the blade failing and causing
serious personal damage. Likewise if you now fit a new blade and
something goes wrong, you would be responsible for any injury.

*IF* the injured party decided to take action, and *IF* there were a
case to be made, and *IF* he could find a solicitor willing to take it
on, and *IF* the judge ultimately found in the plaintiff's favour......

(Stating the obvious) there's too much of this about. I was prevented
from cutting an 8x4 sheet of Celotex in two the other day at Wickes
(even though I was in their capacious lobby area, out of the rain)
because "it's not allowed because of health and safety". It all comes
back to all the "IF"s cited above, and some amateur lawyer in the
company concerned deciding to sweep aside all the IFs, and just saying
"No".

To be fair, given the Sargasso Sea of current H&S legislation, I can't
say I really blame large companies for doing this (given there's no
shortage of gutter-level 'no-blame, no-claim' solicitors). But in a
domestic case like the one we're talking about, I think there is
probably much less chance of making a claim.



If the deal is to fit an new blade, then get it done professionally -
clearly the lender for instance has not even offered you the handbook,
which would at least mitigate some of your responsibility.

I'd agree with that though. Chainsaws, like any savage beast, are
fearsome when used and maintained by untrained amateurs (like me).

John

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

On Mar 30, 5:53*pm, Another John wrote:
In article
,

*robgraham wrote:
This is all very unwise IMO. *I would never lend my chain saw because
of the real hazard to any user of the blade failing and causing
serious personal damage. *Likewise if you now fit a new blade and
something goes wrong, you would be responsible for any injury.

*IF* the injured party decided to take action, and *IF* there were a
case to be made, and *IF* he could find a solicitor willing to take it
on, and *IF* the judge ultimately found in the plaintiff's favour......

(Stating the obvious) there's too much of this about. I was prevented
from cutting an 8x4 sheet of Celotex in two the other day at Wickes
(even though I was in their capacious lobby area, out of the rain)
because "it's not allowed because of health and safety". *It all comes
back to all the "IF"s cited above, and some amateur lawyer in the
company concerned deciding to sweep aside all the IFs, and just saying
"No".

To be fair, given the Sargasso Sea of current H&S legislation, I can't
say I really blame large companies for doing this (given there's no
shortage of *gutter-level 'no-blame, no-claim' solicitors). *But in a
domestic case like the one we're talking about, I think there is
probably much less chance of making a claim.

If the deal is to fit an new blade, then get it done professionally -
clearly the lender for instance has not even offered you the handbook,
which would at least mitigate some of your responsibility.

I'd agree with that though. *Chainsaws, like any savage beast, are
fearsome when used and maintained by untrained amateurs (like me).

John

Regardless of your "IFs", I would have a certain amount of difficulty
living with myself if my friend suffered because of a fault in a
machine I lent him, and equally if my friend fitted the blade and it
failed when I was using it I would like to think he would be equally
mortified.

Rob

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

robgraham wrote:

On Mar 29, 8:00Â*pm, andrew wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Normally they
count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two
ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)

It's normally the drive link count, the bit that sits in the slot.

You need to know the pitch of the chain, distance between two rivets,
.325 and 3/8 are most common, .404 on big saws and I cannot remember the
little size for smaller saws.

Also note the width of the slot in the bar varies.

All these sizes are noramlly marked on the bar, often near the chain
adjuster.

AJH

This is all very unwise IMO. I would never lend my chain saw because
of the real hazard to any user of the blade failing and causing
serious personal damage.

I cannot see the connection between my comments about specifying a chain
loop and lending out a saw.

Even then you have a rosy view of how saws are maintained in a small company
with a number of employees drawing saws occasionally, though it is often
the case an employee using a saw regularly will keep one as personal issue.
Even then it would be expected he would allow other (competent) members of
the gang to use it.

AJH

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

In article
,
robgraham wrote:

On Mar 30, 5:53*pm, Another John wrote:

*IF* the injured party decided to take action, and *IF* there were a
case to be made, and *IF* he could find a solicitor willing to take it
on, and *IF* the judge ultimately found in the plaintiff's favour......
..... .... ...

Regardless of your "IFs", I would have a certain amount of difficulty
living with myself if my friend suffered because of a fault in a
machine I lent him, and equally if my friend fitted the blade and it
failed when I was using it I would like to think he would be equally
mortified.

Yes - I do agree with you there Rob.

I have a 2-stroke saw (which scares the **** out of me), which I've
never lent, partly because of the danger element, and partly because
even a good friend could unwittingly damage it, and then I'd be in an
awkward position if they didn't offer unilaterally to pay.

I also have a Bosch electric (one of the best tools I've ever bought),
which I _have_ lent to a particular friend: this saw is much less
threatening, much easier to handle, and - by god - it don't half save
you a lot of bow-sawing! :-)

John

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

In article lalaw44-8987F3.22534030032011@surfnet-
nl.ipv4.ptr.145.109.196.x.invalid, says...
I have a 2-stroke saw (which scares the **** out of me), which I've
never lent, partly because of the danger element,

I managed a very nasty gash on my leg, once, with a chainsaw - and it
wasn't even running at the time. The trouble with stopping to sharpen
the damned thing is that when you've finished - it's sharp.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

Another John wrote:

I also have a Bosch electric (one of the best tools I've ever bought),
which I _have_ lent to a particular friend: this saw is much less
threatening, much easier to handle, and - by god - it don't half save
you a lot of bow-sawing! :-)

I wore out a Bosch chainsaw (no complaints, it chopped down a lot of
trees) and now have a Makita which is very nice.

I wonder how many people really need petrol chainsaws, as you say
electric ones are somewhat safer (less rotating mass so less chance of
kickback, etc.). We have a smallholding with 9 acres of land and I
have used the electric chainsaw almost all over it. I've used it to
fell quite large trees (50ft high, 18" diameter Leylandii).

--
Chris Green

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

"mark" wrote in message
...
I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain
as
part of the deal.
It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a
matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there
something
else I need to look out for?

mark




It's a Performance Pro...B&Q which is hard enough to source blades for
anyway. Seems to have more cons than pros this replacing blade malarky.
Think I'll just have it sharpened at a mower place.Thanks for all the advice

mark

Chainsaw blade replacemnt
 

On Mar 31, 5:20 pm, "mark" wrote:
"mark" wrote in message

...

I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain
as
part of the deal.
It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a
matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there
something
else I need to look out for?

mark

It's a Performance Pro...B&Q which is hard enough to source blades for
anyway. Seems to have more cons than pros this replacing blade malarky.
Think I'll just have it sharpened at a mower place.Thanks for all the advice

mark

is it one of these
Performance Power PRO 42CCCSA or PRO 38CCCSA
?

Jim K