I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.


G.Harman

On 12/01/11 20:51, wrote:

I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.

Break the table in the middle so that when it folds the centre drops
towards the floor. Fit a gate type support that folds out from the wall
and supports both halves of the table.



--
Bernard Peek

On 12/01/2011 20:51, wrote:

I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.


G.Harman
Years ago - in the late 70's I bought a kitchen table/bench set which
folded up into a wall unit which was the width of the table and about 6
- 8 inches deep. The cheeks of the unit protruded about 5 inces from
the wall. the table, when int the erected position had a strut hinged
at one end to the underside of the table and at the other end hinged to
the base of the wall frame. The wall end of the table fitted inside the
wall frame and had metal dowels fitting into slots routed inside the
wall frame. With the table level in the use position the dowels were at
the top of the slots but when the end of the table away from the wall
was lifted the dowels slid down and the table top ended up vertical
within the wall frame. the benches then folded up to make the system
look like a cupboard standing about 6 inches from the wall.

Difficult to describe, if you are interested, contact me by e-mail on
and I will try to send you some sketches

Malcolm

On Jan 12, 8:51*pm, wrote:
I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. *Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.

G.Harman

6mm steel rod runs from wall to midway out on the table at each end.
Rear of table pushes into holes in wall. To collapse, pull table
outwards and rotate it flat to the wall. The steel rods dont
disconnect, they pivot at each end.

Another is to have the table entirely liftoffable, and hang it on
hooks on the wall to store.


NT

Tabby wrote:

On Jan 12, 8:51 pm, wrote:
I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.

6mm steel rod runs from wall to midway out on the table at each end.
Rear of table pushes into holes in wall. To collapse, pull table
outwards and rotate it flat to the wall. The steel rods dont
disconnect, they pivot at each end.

Good answer, but only if the purpose of the table is such that having
the rods coming that far out doesn't mean they're going to be in the
way. The OP hasn't indicated the purpose but has hinted that its working
height is quite high, so it probably isn't for dining, but if it were,
the rods would be in the way of half the diners. It might help if the
OP said what it was to be for.

Another is to have the table entirely liftoffable, and hang it on
hooks on the wall to store.

Nor has the OP said what form of support he had in mind for the
end of the table most distant from the wall. A cord or chain anchored
in the ceiling? A cord to a ceiling mounted pulley and thence to a
cleat on the wall? A hinged single leg? One could conceivably put his
"movable pivot" into practice. I.e. have the table's hinged end not
attached to the wall directly, but to a fitting which is attached to
the wall in such a way that it can be cranked up and down somehow.

But a simplified form of this would be similar to your "liftoffable"
suggestion: Affix a dowel to the wall end of the table, this dowel
should be some 3 inches or so longer than the table's edge, so that
it projects out a bit on both ends. To the wall affix two pairs of
large hooks (preferably carved out of wood), they need to be large
enough for the dowel to sit in their grooves. Affix one pair low
down, at a distance from the ceiling at least long enough for the
table to clear the ceiling. Affix the other pair at working height.
This upper pair could also incorporate an arrangement for clipping
the table in the stowed position, so that it doesn't come crashing
down of its own accord.

On Jan 13, 2:26*pm, Ronald Raygun
wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On Jan 12, 8:51 pm, wrote:
I would like to construct a wall mounted fold down table. In the level
position it will reasonably high ,this means that if the hinged end is
fixed at working height the length of table I would like cannot fold
up as the end would not clear the ceiling. *Does any one know of a
track or mechanism that could be fixed on the wall that will let the
pivot end be lowered towards the floor so the full length could be
accommodated when in the vertical position.

6mm steel rod runs from wall to midway out on the table at each end.
Rear of table pushes into holes in wall. To collapse, pull table
outwards and rotate it flat to the wall. The steel rods dont
disconnect, they pivot at each end.

Good answer, but only if the purpose of the table is such that having
the rods coming that far out doesn't mean they're going to be in the
way. *The OP hasn't indicated the purpose but has hinted that its working
height is quite high, so it probably isn't for dining, but if it were,
the rods would be in the way of half the diners. *It might help if the
OP said what it was to be for.

Another is to have the table entirely liftoffable, and hang it on
hooks on the wall to store.

Nor has the OP said what form of support he had in mind for the
end of the table most distant from the wall. *A cord or chain anchored
in the ceiling? *A cord to a ceiling mounted pulley and thence to a
cleat on the wall? *A hinged single leg? *One could conceivably put his
"movable pivot" into practice. *I.e. have the table's hinged end not
attached to the wall directly, but to a fitting which is attached to
the wall in such a way that it can be cranked up and down somehow.

But a simplified form of this would be similar to your "liftoffable"
suggestion: *Affix a dowel to the wall end of the table, this dowel
should be some 3 inches or so longer than the table's edge, so that
it projects out a bit on both ends. *To the wall affix two pairs of
large hooks (preferably carved out of wood), they need to be large
enough for the dowel to sit in their grooves. *Affix one pair low
down, at a distance from the ceiling at least long enough for the
table to clear the ceiling. *Affix the other pair at working height.
This upper pair could also incorporate an arrangement for clipping
the table in the stowed position, so that it doesn't come crashing
down of its own accord.

There's no end of options really. Beware with any sort of dowel or
point fixing that its strong enough, this can definitely not be
assumed.


NT