Bricking up an external door
When you are bricking up an external door are you supposed to "open up" and
expose the existing wall cavity or do you just brick up the gap (with it's own cavity)? -- Adam |
Bricking up an external door
ARWadsworth wrote:
When you are bricking up an external door are you supposed to "open up" and expose the existing wall cavity or do you just brick up the gap (with it's own cavity)? You probably will find the cavity exists anyway on a modernish house right up to the frame. I would definitely open it up and remove alternate half bricks etc to get a good continuos cavity and brick key. But then it would be my house. Quick'n'dirty if I was a builder on a budget.. |
Bricking up an external door
On 04/10/10 19:46, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote: When you are bricking up an external door are you supposed to "open up" and expose the existing wall cavity or do you just brick up the gap (with it's own cavity)? You probably will find the cavity exists anyway on a modernish house right up to the frame. I would definitely open it up and remove alternate half bricks etc to get a good continuos cavity and brick key. But then it would be my house. Yes - it's not hard. Angle grinder (really! ;- ) to cut the mortar between the half bricks, and remove. You can key both sides in an hour or less. Hammer and bolster would work too but not quite as quick. Pack mortar in tight with a bit of wood on these when building up the wall and it will be a very strong joint. I did the same to extend a wall by a foot (also a door opening that was moved along a bit). Quick'n'dirty if I was a builder on a budget.. They will be... Metal strip if you're lucky (though that is a fairly strong solution) or a couple of nails banged in if they are really cheap *******s. |
Bricking up an external door
On 04/10/10 20:58, Tim Watts wrote:
Pack mortar in tight with a bit of wood on these when building up the wall and it will be a very strong joint. I forgot to add - when I did my wall extension, I also inverted the new bricks where they keyed in so I had a frog facing a frog - fully packed with mortar. That's probably over engineered for a full doorway bricking up but as I was adding a little wibbly bit on the end of a wall, it was necessary to make the joint really solid... |
Bricking up an external door
Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/10/10 19:46, The Natural Philosopher wrote: ARWadsworth wrote: When you are bricking up an external door are you supposed to "open up" and expose the existing wall cavity or do you just brick up the gap (with it's own cavity)? You probably will find the cavity exists anyway on a modernish house right up to the frame. I would definitely open it up and remove alternate half bricks etc to get a good continuos cavity and brick key. But then it would be my house. Yes - it's not hard. Angle grinder (really! ;- ) to cut the mortar between the half bricks, and remove. You can key both sides in an hour or less. Hammer and bolster would work too but not quite as quick. I guess that there is already some sort of vertical DPM in place around the door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. They will be... Metal strip if you're lucky (though that is a fairly strong solution) or a couple of nails banged in if they are really cheap *******s. It might be the metal strips for the external part of the wall. It is not brick but concrete bricks. The idea is to brick up the old door and then render the new brickwork to look like it was concrete bricks. -- Adam |
Bricking up an external door
In article ,
"ARWadsworth" writes: door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. That will probably just stay put. Be thankful it's not tiny polystyrene balls... -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
Bricking up an external door
On 04/10/10 22:26, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In , writes: door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. That will probably just stay put. Be thankful it's not tiny polystyrene balls... Yes - I can personally confirm that wool (or blown fibre) does not tend to fall out - much at least. It's worth having a bit of glass wool to hand (old tank jacket is a good source if there's one down the tip) and just stuff a bit back as you go. But mostly it is pretty stable. |
Bricking up an external door
On 4 Oct, 23:08, Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/10/10 22:26, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In , * *writes: door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. That will probably just stay put. Be thankful it's not tiny polystyrene balls... Yes - I can personally confirm that wool (or blown fibre) does not tend to fall out - much at least. It's worth having a bit of glass wool to hand (old tank jacket is a good source if there's one down the tip) and just stuff a bit back as you go. But mostly it is pretty stable. Mineral wool cavity wall insulation (blown and bats) are treated with a moisture repellent to prevent water tracking across the cavity. Get proper cavity wall bats from your local builder's merchant. The benifit of opening the cavity is it removes a thermal bridge to the cavity that would otherwise be left. There is no other advantage. There is a vertical damp proof course in the brickwork. Modern houses tend not to have a brickwork return in window and door openings. They have a cavity closer that is usually plastic with a bit of insulation attached. These are cheaper to install and remove the thermal bridge. There is no point in removing this. If you feel the need to attach your new brick/blockwork to the old you can buy screw- in "wall starters". |
Bricking up an external door
On 4 Oct, 19:42, "ARWadsworth" wrote:
When you are bricking up an external door are you supposed to "open up" and expose the existing wall cavity or do you just brick up the gap (with it's own cavity)? -- Adam Further to above, if your house is very old it may have no insulation at all in the cavity. If it is very new it may have a "partial fill" system, ie ridgid boards fastened to the inner leaf of brickwork by clips on the wall ties. This is only likly on houses less then ten/ fifteen years old. Things will start to become apparent when you remove the door frame. |
Bricking up an external door
On Oct 5, 10:30*am, harry wrote:
Further to above, if your house is very old it may have no insulation at all in the cavity. Cavity? What is this cavity of which you speak? http://www.aecb.net/forum/index.php?topic=561.0 suggests cavity wall construction moved east across the country between mid-19th and mid-20th century. I'm from Cambridge, and would have guessed they became common in the 50's. Cavity wall insulation didn't become required until the 70's, which is hardly "very old". In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if the majority of our housing stock predates cavity wall insulation. |
Bricking up an external door
harry wrote:
On 4 Oct, 23:08, Tim Watts wrote: On 04/10/10 22:26, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In , writes: door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. That will probably just stay put. Be thankful it's not tiny polystyrene balls... Yes - I can personally confirm that wool (or blown fibre) does not tend to fall out - much at least. It's worth having a bit of glass wool to hand (old tank jacket is a good source if there's one down the tip) and just stuff a bit back as you go. But mostly it is pretty stable. Mineral wool cavity wall insulation (blown and bats) are treated with a moisture repellent to prevent water tracking across the cavity. Get proper cavity wall bats from your local builder's merchant. The benifit of opening the cavity is it removes a thermal bridge to the cavity that would otherwise be left. There is no other advantage. There is a vertical damp proof course in the brickwork. I am assuming that the house in question has a vertical dpm of some sort (built around 1955 but NOT with normal bricks). It certainly has got cavity wall insulation (installed 11 months ago just in time for cold snap we had). I would feel happier by opening up the cavity before bricking the hole up. Cheers -- Adam |
Bricking up an external door
On 5 Oct, 17:02, "ARWadsworth" wrote:
harry wrote: On 4 Oct, 23:08, Tim Watts wrote: On 04/10/10 22:26, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In , writes: door. Opening up the cavity is no big deal. I will need to hold back the existing cavity wall insulation whilst cutting back. I believe that it will be a wool filled insulation. That will probably just stay put. Be thankful it's not tiny polystyrene balls... Yes - I can personally confirm that wool (or blown fibre) does not tend to fall out - much at least. It's worth having a bit of glass wool to hand (old tank jacket is a good source if there's one down the tip) and just stuff a bit back as you go. But mostly it is pretty stable. Mineral wool cavity wall insulation (blown and bats) are treated with a moisture repellent to prevent water tracking across the cavity. Get proper cavity wall bats from your local builder's merchant. The benifit of opening the cavity is it removes a thermal bridge to the cavity *that would otherwise be left. There is no other advantage.. There is a vertical damp proof course in the brickwork. I am assuming that the house in question has a vertical dpm of some sort (built around 1955 but NOT with normal bricks). It certainly has got cavity wall insulation (installed 11 months ago just in time for cold snap we had). I would feel happier by opening up the cavity before bricking the hole up.. Cheers -- Adam- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You should, to avoid the thermal bridge. |
Bricking up an external door
On 05/10/2010 16:43, Martin Bonner wrote:
Cavity wall insulation didn't become required until the 70's, which is hardly "very old". In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if the majority of our housing stock predates cavity wall insulation. I'm sure you're right. That doesn't necessarily mean that the majority of the housing stock is *still* uninsulated because a hell of a lot of cavities have been filled retrospectively (and not just by dentists). g -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Bricking up an external door
"Martin Bonner" wrote in message ... Cavity wall insulation didn't become required until the 70's, It wasn't required in the early eighties. Until about three years ago I had the only house with cavity wall insulation in the street and I had to pay for that in 1981 just after the house was built. Quite a few have been done now its subsidised. I can't moan though, I have saved many times the cost in thirty years. which is hardly "very old". In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if the majority of our housing stock predates cavity wall insulation. |
Bricking up an external door
dennis@home wrote:
"Nutkey" wrote in message ... On Oct 5, 8:21 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: "Martin Bonner" wrote in message ... Cavity wall insulation didn't become required until the 70's, It wasn't required in the early eighties. Until about three years ago I had the only house with cavity wall insulation in the street and I had to pay for that in 1981 just after the house was built. Quite a few have been done now its subsidised. I can't moan though, I Now it's subsidised... My dad popped round to see a neighbour last night. Rang me up afterwards to tell me that she's having cavity wall insulation put in for free (she's an OAP). Trouble is, she has solid walls. I think I might go round with my dad to watch.... Watch from outside.. they will drill holes through the wall and fill the room with insulation. Now that would be fun if they were still using the expanding foam type of cavity wall insulation. -- Adam |
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