Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

There are various insulation "knock in" plastic fixings whereby you
knock a peg into a tube.

Are they strong enough to go thro 9.5mm PB & 40mm Celotex?

Obviously the PB would require a 5-6mm skim, just wondered if it would
work re avoiding wood battens on solid brick walls and all the mucking
about that involves.

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

On 21 Aug, 23:16, "js.b1" wrote:
There are various insulation "knock in" plastic fixings whereby you
knock a peg into a tube.

Are they strong enough to go thro 9.5mm PB & 40mm Celotex?

Obviously the PB would require a 5-6mm skim, just wondered if it would
work re avoiding wood battens on solid brick walls and all the mucking
about that involves.

dot and dab the PIR PBoards, add a couple of frame fixers at head
height (for fire safety), skim with usual 2mm - voila!

worked for me & am still here with no probs 4.5yrs later ;)

Jim K

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

Seems to be a lot of hammer-in fasteners on the market.
They are attractive because of drill - insert - whack, rather than
messing about with wooden battens. That said a wooden batten at the
bottom seems a good idea to act as a shear-brace.
Good point about fire, Rawlplug do polypropylene (Screwfix) and
Fischer do nylon & metal, something metal is required for fire because
if the plaster falls off PIR foam is pretty nasty. That said I find it
an odd argument for domestic because you are dead if not out in a few
minutes anyway, long before plastic plasterboard fixings have failed.

Re dot-n-dab, was that onto the foil and onto solid wall? Interesting
and quick "splodge" solution.

I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should
solve that icy box-room solid wall.

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

On 22 Aug, 15:09, "js.b1" wrote:
Seems to be a lot of hammer-in fasteners on the market.
They are attractive because of drill - insert - whack, rather than
messing about with wooden battens. That said a wooden batten at the
bottom seems a good idea to act as a shear-brace.
Good point about fire, Rawlplug do polypropylene (Screwfix) and
Fischer do nylon & metal, something metal is required for fire because
if the plaster falls off PIR foam is pretty nasty. That said I find it
an odd argument for domestic because you are dead if not out in a few
minutes anyway, long before plastic plasterboard fixings have failed.

think the idea is that *if* the fire gets behind the pboard and into
the PIR foam and so loosens the boards attachment to the wall by
adhesive dabs- those fixings will hold it up that bit longer whilst
you/a fireman get out /past

Re dot-n-dab, was that onto the foil and onto solid wall? Interesting
and quick "splodge" solution.

yup straight foam (latterly paper faced xtratherm) backed insulated
plasterboard onto solid walls, with frame fixers as mentioned. Quick,
easyish easier with 2 ppl, also accomodated some degree of "out of
vertical" /lumps and bumps with judicious use of extra pboard
adhesive.

I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should
solve that icy box-room solid wall.

I reckon very much yes..
the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around
this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted
pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need
an air supply....;)

Cheers
Jim K

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

On Aug 22, 3:51*pm, Jim K wrote:
js.b1@ntlworld wrote:
I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should
solve that icy box-room solid wall.

I reckon very much yes.

It is 2 outside walls with a nearby T-junction which is in almost
compass-perfect with the prevailing wind, so it gets a jet-blast of
air... leaves... flying cats... waste paper... junk mail...
postman :-)


the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around
this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted
pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need
an air supply....;)

The good thing about internal insulation is the very fast warmup and
perceived comfort.

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

On 22 Aug, 17:31, "js.b1" wrote:
On Aug 22, 3:51 pm, Jim K wrote:

js.b1@ntlworld wrote:
I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should
solve that icy box-room solid wall.

I reckon very much yes.

It is 2 outside walls with a nearby T-junction which is in almost
compass-perfect with the prevailing wind, so it gets a jet-blast of
air... leaves... flying cats... waste paper... junk mail...
postman :-)

the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around
this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted
pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need
an air supply....;)

The good thing about internal insulation is the very fast warmup and
perceived comfort.

can you measure comfort any other way??

Jim K

Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
 

On Aug 22, 8:14*pm, Jim K wrote:
can you measure comfort any other way??

Yes, lack of discomfort :-)

Internal insulation means there is no delay to the room warming up;
that is to say you are not having to heat the inner leaf of a cavity
wall which even though it is insulated is slow to warm up from (say) a
background temperature to a higher comfort temperature.

So internal insulation is very useful for rooms which are only
occasionally used and "on demand heated", such as utility, box-rooms,
storage rooms and so on. Whereas external insulation is good for rooms
continually occupied 24x7 where you want a high thermal mass to even
out the daily cycle and high thermal mass to not suddenly go cold when
an outside door is opened.

Frankly I wish UK construction would go the way of those clay-stick-
together-jumbo-blocks. Unfortunately they are actually pretty
expensive, the saving is in labour which will never catch on with the
UK construction industry (or politicians).