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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Sarking Felt
I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left
with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? |
#2
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Sarking Felt
On 14 July, 23:08, "John" wrote:
I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. |
#3
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Sarking Felt
On 14 July, 23:08, "John" wrote:
how can I minimise any problems? Call them back to finish the job off properly! |
#4
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Sarking Felt
harry
wibbled on Thursday 15 July 2010 08:12 On 14 July, 23:08, "John" wrote: I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. There must be a retro repair method surely? I have a couple of holes in my felt (wasps and old vent pipe). There's no way I'm taking tiles and battens off to "fix" this. I know the basic method is to tuck some felt over the botton side of the hole felt (ie between felt and tiles) and then teh top of teh repair section goes under the felt at the top end of the hole. That will divert some water should there be a leak. Not sure what to do with the sides as the felt is damaged reight back to the rafters. Foam it in perhaps? -- Tim Watts Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer. |
#5
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Sarking Felt
On 15/07/2010 08:12, harry wrote:
On 14 July, 23:08, wrote: I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. I thought in such a case it would be preferable to fix the tile? I've never fully understood sarking felt. Looks like some sort of ease of constructing a roof expedient to me. If I was the OP I'd leave it and be happy for the ventilation. Rob |
#6
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Sarking Felt
On 15/07/10 10:23, Rob wrote:
On 15/07/2010 08:12, harry wrote: On 14 July, 23:08, wrote: I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. I thought in such a case it would be preferable to fix the tile? I've never fully understood sarking felt. Looks like some sort of ease of constructing a roof expedient to me. If I was the OP I'd leave it and be happy for the ventilation. Rob I think the main use of felt is to stop rain getting in when the tiles/slates are off, and to stop draughts lifting off the slates/tiles. But this never happened to my roof when I had no felt. Felt means theres much less ventilation up there, so more chance of condensation and woodrot. But i'm a worrier with little experience. When did they start felting roofs? Have people had condensation problems? There were reports here of condensation in the last very cold winter, has the moisture cleared from people's attics over the last few warmer months? [g] |
#7
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Sarking Felt
Eh?
Sarking felt is a very beneficial development. Realise a lost slate means you are getting water ingress from that point to the ridge, not just that "small hole". The problem with sarking felt is that it pools & rots at the bottom, so eaves protectors are a good addition along with replacing the bit of felt at the bottom. Slate roof. Slate fixings do fail eventually, if you lose a slate, the sarking felt catches the rain and directs it into the gutter. Marley single or double camber tiles. The camber provides ventilation & wind driven rain ingress, the rain runs down the sarking felt accordingly. They are really not a brilliant roof tile yet were commonly used on a 22-degree roof with sarking felt & close boarding (Scottish style). Interlocking tiles. Great in that water ingress is much reduced, good for very low angles without close boarding. Whoever did the chimney removal should have cut a piece of sarking felt & overlapped correctly. Did they vent the chimney stack if part of the wall is outside facing? You do not want to vented into the loft & house, because it will transfer moist air into the loft. You want an airbrick vent at the top, at the bottom likewise or an internal vent. It does not need to be big, but realise water will penetrate single brick and the chimney can get running in water. Any joists tha abutt it will get rot in their ends eventually, it can cause blown plaster issues. Need Kipper At Sea to give a full answer, think he has retired. |
#8
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Sarking Felt
On 15/07/10 10:54, js.b1 wrote:
Eh? Sarking felt is a very beneficial development. Realise a lost slate means you are getting water ingress from that point to the ridge, not just that "small hole". But without felt I will notice the roof leak when I'm checking the attic and see light or water or when i see dampness on the ceiling But with felt the leak could be undetected for years, rotting the timbers down below. And felt cuts ventilation drastically. [g] |
#9
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Sarking Felt
"george [dicegeorge]" wrote in message ... On 15/07/10 10:23, Rob wrote: snip When did they start felting roofs? Have people had condensation problems? snip I don't know when they started, but... My 1896 house in rural Derbyshire didn't have felt (original slate roof, I believe). My 1930s house in Suffolk did have felt (again original tile roof, I think). -- No plan survives contact with the enemy. Helmuth von Moltke the Elder |
#10
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Sarking Felt
In article ,
Tim Watts writes: harry wibbled on Thursday 15 July 2010 08:12 On 14 July, 23:08, "John" wrote: I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. There must be a retro repair method surely? I have a couple of holes in my felt (wasps and old vent pipe). There's no way I'm taking tiles and battens off to "fix" this. I know the basic method is to tuck some felt over the botton side of the hole felt (ie between felt and tiles) and then teh top of teh repair section goes under the felt at the top end of the hole. That will divert some water should there be a leak. Not sure what to do with the sides as the felt is damaged reight back to the rafters. Foam it in perhaps? There's usually a slight sag on the felt between the rafters, and this causes the water to run down the middle between rafters, which is why you don't have to worry about the batten nail holes through the felt into the rafters. To be honest, I wouldn't bother repairing at this point. You could do it if/when a leak happens. Having said that, when I replaced part of my roof (a valley gutter), I properly removed the battens and fitted new felt under the old, but that's why I DIY - so I get a job done properly. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#11
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Sarking Felt
On Jul 15, 11:38*am, "george [dicegeorge]"
wrote: But without felt I will notice the roof leak Yes, and you can usually find it more easily. And felt cuts ventilation drastically. It does greatly reduce ventilation to the loft, but the felt should sag noticeably so as to provide good ventilation around the tiles. The loft should be ventilated by "opposed" soffit vents to get cross-flow air just like underfloors, but older houses often have chrysotile soffit boards which lack vents. |
#12
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Sarking Felt
On 15/07/10 19:15, js.b1 wrote:
On Jul 15, 11:38 am, "george wrote: But without felt I will notice the roof leak Yes, and you can usually find it more easily. And felt cuts ventilation drastically. It does greatly reduce ventilation to the loft, but the felt should sag noticeably so as to provide good ventilation around the tiles. The loft should be ventilated by "opposed" soffit vents to get cross-flow air just like underfloors, but older houses often have chrysotile soffit boards which lack vents. Yes, my house was ventilated through the slates so now the roofers have felted it I'm worrying about new ventilation routes. [g] |
#13
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Sarking Felt
On Jul 15, 10:54*am, "js.b1" wrote:
Eh? Sarking felt is a very beneficial development. Realise a lost slate means you are getting water ingress from that point to the ridge, not just that "small hole". The problem with sarking felt is that it pools & rots at the bottom, so eaves protectors are a good addition along with replacing the bit of felt at the bottom. Slate roof. Slate fixings do fail eventually, if you lose a slate, the sarking felt catches the rain and directs it into the gutter. Marley single or double camber tiles. The camber provides ventilation & wind driven rain ingress, the rain runs down the sarking felt accordingly. They are really not a brilliant roof tile yet were commonly used on a 22-degree roof with sarking felt & close boarding (Scottish style). Interlocking tiles. Great in that water ingress is much reduced, good for very low angles without close boarding. Whoever did the chimney removal should have cut a piece of sarking felt & overlapped correctly. Did they vent the chimney stack if part of the wall is outside facing? You do not want to vented into the loft & house, because it will transfer moist air into the loft. You want an airbrick vent at the top, at the bottom likewise or an internal vent. It does not need to be big, but realise water will penetrate single brick and the chimney can get running in water. Any joists tha abutt it will get rot in their ends eventually, it can cause blown plaster issues. Need Kipper At Sea to give a full answer, think he has retired. Sarking felt or as its known now days as breather felt or underlay, was first called Battiscloth in the early 1900. It was very heavy fibre cloth strands with bitumen mixture coated in sawdust to stop it from sticking together in the roll. Later they did away with the fibre mixture and just use close string type net sprayed with bitumen with a talc powder to prevent sticking in the roll, later they change the talc to fine sand as the talc was classed as a health assured. Felt did away with touching mortar. Touching mortar was cow hair mixed with lime mortar and spread onto the roof lath and on the back of the slates or tiles. The idea of felt was to form a draft and mainly a vapour barrier. Most houses had a natural vent via the fireplace, which most probably counteracted condensation. With the introduction of central heating and loft insulation hence condensing on the underside of the roof covering. Breather underlay is one way of counteracting this problem, another way on older roofs is to use vent tiles and vent ridge. If there is a leak in the roof the water ingress is transferred to the eave via the felt. It takes quite some time before the water comes through the area where the actual leak is until the felt rots under the area where the ingress is. Ponding is another problem with felt. With most tiles or slates this is avoided by the use of “over fascia felt support trays”. They are not ideal on plain tiles as the eave tile batten is to low and tips them up and causes ponding. Ponding is the term for the sag of the felt or underlay between the top of the spar or rafter to the top of the fascia board. |
#14
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Sarking Felt
On Jul 15, 9:21*am, Tim Watts wrote:
harry * wibbled on Thursday 15 July 2010 08:12 On 14 July, 23:08, "John" wrote: I have had a flue relocated and the tiles have been replaced - but I am left with a ragged hole in the sarking felt. Does it matter - if so, how can I minimise any problems? It should have been fixed before the tiles were put on. There's not a lot can be done now. *If a tile cracks, water will come in the house. There must be a retro repair method surely? I have a couple of holes in my felt (wasps and old vent pipe). There's no way I'm taking tiles and battens off to "fix" this. I know the basic method is to tuck some felt over the botton side of the hole felt (ie between felt and tiles) and then teh top of teh repair section goes under the felt at the top end of the hole. That will divert some water should there be a leak. Not sure what to do with the sides as the felt is damaged reight back to the rafters. Foam it in perhaps? -- Tim Watts Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer. When covering a removed chimney underlay should cover the area then the battens and slates or tiles. A vent should be put in the chimneystack in the outer wall below roof level and another at the bottom of the stack to form a airflow |
#15
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Sarking Felt
In article ,
David WE Roberts wrote: My 1896 house in rural Derbyshire didn't have felt (original slate roof, I believe). My 1930s house in Suffolk did have felt (again original tile roof, I think). My 1930s house in Kent doesn't have felt (original slate roof and a gale in the loft :-)) Darren |
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