Following on from the fluorescent lighting thread:

I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly like:


Wall
|
|
|
| |
|----O

Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal to the
vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about 1.5-2"

To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously around
the room.

I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the life of
me track anything down.

Is there a product like this, or even just quarter round MDF that I can
joint onto a straight bit? I guess it will need to be 15mm or so thickness
to have the required stability.

Cheers
Tim

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Tim Watts wrote:
Following on from the fluorescent lighting thread:

I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly
like:


Wall



|
----O

Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal to
the vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about 1.5-2"

To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously
around the room.

I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the
life of me track anything down.

Is there a product like this, or even just quarter round MDF that I
can joint onto a straight bit? I guess it will need to be 15mm or so
thickness to have the required stability.

Pre primed MDF window board from Wickes. About 200mm wide, so one quick rip
down the middle gives you both pieces. Cheap as chips.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Jul 10, 4:08*pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
Following on from the fluorescent lighting thread:

I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly
like:

Wall

* *|
----O

Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal to
the vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about 1.5-2"

To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously
around the room.

I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the
life of me track anything down.

Is there a product like this, or even just quarter round MDF that I
can joint onto a straight bit? I guess it will need to be 15mm or so
thickness to have the required stability.

Pre primed MDF window board from Wickes. *About 200mm wide, so one quick rip
down the middle gives you both pieces. *Cheap as chips.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

4 inch pencil round skirting plus 2 inch square architrave would be
cheaper and quicker. Both available in MDF from Howdens -
http://www.howdens.com/product-range...mdf-mouldings/

A

andrew wrote:
On Jul 10, 4:08 pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
Following on from the fluorescent lighting thread:

I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly
like:

Wall


----O

Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal
to the vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about
1.5-2"

To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously
around the room.

I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the
life of me track anything down.

Is there a product like this, or even just quarter round MDF that I
can joint onto a straight bit? I guess it will need to be 15mm or so
thickness to have the required stability.

Pre primed MDF window board from Wickes. About 200mm wide, so one
quick rip down the middle gives you both pieces. Cheap as chips.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

4 inch pencil round skirting plus 2 inch square architrave would be
cheaper and quicker. Both available in MDF from Howdens -
http://www.howdens.com/product-range...mdf-mouldings/

Are they not trade only?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Owain
wibbled on Saturday 10 July 2010 14:10

On 10 July, 13:31, Tim Watts wrote:
I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly like:
Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal to the
vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about 1.5-2"
To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously
around the room.
I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the life
of me track anything down.

Pipe boxing, mdf or plywood.

http://www.pendock.co.uk

http://www.contourply.co.uk/

Owain

Wow. The 2nd link in particular looks nice. I could see some of the 5mm ply
being a strong possibility - nice smooth curve and dimensions that I think
I'm after...

Although I was going to leave some pipe drops to rads on show, I'm tempted
by this stuff - it looks pretty nice. Thanks!

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Saturday 10 July 2010 16:08

Pre primed MDF window board from Wickes. About 200mm wide, so one quick
rip
down the middle gives you both pieces. Cheap as chips.



Hi,

I don't think that'll work. I'm after something with an upturned lip rather
than just a rounded end.

Cheers anyway,

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Tim Watts wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Saturday 10 July 2010 16:08

Pre primed MDF window board from Wickes. About 200mm wide, so one
quick rip
down the middle gives you both pieces. Cheap as chips.



Hi,

I don't think that'll work. I'm after something with an upturned lip
rather than just a rounded end.

So, you want 'pouting' wood then?

:-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Following on from the fluorescent lighting thread:

I'd like to make a really nice lighting trough, end profile roughly like:


Wall
|
|
|
| |
|----O

Try to imagine the O represents a smooth curve from the horizontal to the
vertical. Horizontal about 4", vertical lip height about 1.5-2"

To be painted in white emulsion inside and out and run continuously around
the room.

I've got a feeling that something might exist, but I can't for the life of
me track anything down.

Is there a product like this, or even just quarter round MDF that I can
joint onto a straight bit? I guess it will need to be 15mm or so thickness
to have the required stability.

Cheers
Tim

I used upside down skirting (nice proper wood) glued to a spacer for my
window lights, but I had them shining down not up.

S

Spamlet
wibbled on Saturday 10 July 2010 22:34


I used upside down skirting (nice proper wood) glued to a spacer for my
window lights, but I had them shining down not up.

S

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner radius, it
might well be better to try to fashion something out of bull nose skirting
with another bit glued on.



--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Spamlet
wibbled on Saturday 10 July 2010 22:34


I used upside down skirting (nice proper wood) glued to a spacer for my
window lights, but I had them shining down not up.

S

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner radius, it
might well be better to try to fashion something out of bull nose skirting
with another bit glued on.
--
Tim Watts

I was very pleased the way mine turned out across a window bay with a couple
of 15w strips behind looks v good. Only shame is I haven't been well enough
to finish the decorating to go with it and it's bound to be spoiled if SWMBO
gets someone in to finish it...

S

On Jul 11, 9:44 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner radius, it
might well be better to try to fashion something out of bull nose skirting
with another bit glued on.

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the edge
round?

Matty F
wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 10:41

On Jul 11, 9:44 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner radius, it
might well be better to try to fashion something out of bull nose
skirting with another bit glued on.

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the edge
round?

No router...

But having looked at Wickes, a bit of bullnose MDF architrave and a bit of
bullnose MDF skirting should give me the required dimensions with no cutting
(except length).

I reckon I will make up a number of troughs (the hardest bit getting good
alighnment of the 2 pieces to make the join invisible).

Then I'll treat it like coving and run it all round with mitred joints after
I've calculated the best height to give a good ceiling wash without the
tubes being visible.

I've come to the conclusion that

a) I can't afford dimmers (that get's expensive fast)

b) I'll standardise on 2' T8 tubes. There are 3 short sections that would
benefit from 2' tubes. 3 x 2' tubes for the 8' wall and 4 tubes for the 10'
wall.

There are Philips HF gear units that drive 3-4 2' T8s at no more expense
than the same type of unit for 2 x 4' tubes. Then I'll only need one type of
tube in the spares box and it will be nice and short for easy storage.

I'll just have to take a chance on the brightness, but as its sole function
is to add "daylight mode" to the room, with a GU10x4 spot for the main
lighting, I think it will be fine.

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Tim Watts wrote:
Matty F
wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 10:41

On Jul 11, 9:44 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner
radius, it might well be better to try to fashion something out of
bull nose skirting with another bit glued on.

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the edge
round?

No router...

But you neeeeeeed a router Tim!



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:49:51 +0100, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the
edge
round?

No router...

But you neeeeeeed a router Tim!

But does MDF route nicely? The surfaces is hard and smooth but the
core tends to be a bit soft and fibrous.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 06:10:55 -0700 (PDT), Owain
wrote:


http://www.pendock.co.uk

Hmm- I see from one of their pages
http://www.pendock.co.uk/Home/News/Latest/UK_GOVERNMENT_TO_MAKE_WOOD_WITHOUT_COC_ILLEGAL/News.aspx?id=944
I will have to hide my shed:-

Quote:-
In the Conservative Liberal Democrat coalition agreement there is a significant
strengthening in the penalties for the use, possession or importing of illegal
timber and timber products.
The exact details could not be clearer p7 under section 11. Environment, item 14
"Measures to make the import or possession of illegal timber a criminal
offence."
end quote.


--
Geo

Dave Liquorice
wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 13:32

On Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:49:51 +0100, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the
edge
round?

No router...

But you neeeeeeed a router Tim!

But does MDF route nicely? The surfaces is hard and smooth but the
core tends to be a bit soft and fibrous.


Yes, I do need a router, but ideally I'd like to do with with minimum
effort, just gluing, cut the ends (mitre) to go round the room[1] and hang
on upside down shelf brackets (between lamps) and a batten along the back
edge.

[1] I'm undecided whether to make stand alone lamp boxes or to run it round.
I think the latter will give a certain continuity. But again, it might look
weird for the bits that don't have tubes in?...

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Watts saying
something like:


I don't think that'll work. I'm after something with an upturned lip rather
than just a rounded end.

Sorry, fresh out of choirboys.

In message , Grimly
Curmudgeon writes
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Watts saying
something like:


I don't think that'll work. I'm after something with an upturned lip rather
than just a rounded end.

Sorry, fresh out of choirboys.

How about taser tim?

You've seen the picture ...

--
geoff

Grimly Curmudgeon
wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 21:14

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Watts saying
something like:


I don't think that'll work. I'm after something with an upturned lip
rather than just a rounded end.

Sorry, fresh out of choirboys.

Father Ignatius - is that you?

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On Jul 11, 11:37*am, Tim Watts wrote:
Matty F
* wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 10:41

On Jul 11, 9:44 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner radius, it
might well be better to try to fashion something out of bull nose
skirting with another bit glued on.

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the edge
round?

No router...

But having looked at Wickes, a bit of bullnose MDF architrave and a bit of
bullnose MDF skirting should give me the required dimensions with no cutting
(except length).

I reckon I will make up a number of troughs (the hardest bit getting good
alighnment of the 2 pieces to make the join invisible).

Then I'll treat it like coving and run it all round with mitred joints after
I've calculated the best height to give a good ceiling wash without the
tubes being visible.

I've come to the conclusion that

a) I can't afford dimmers (that get's expensive fast)

Its also relatively easy to select multiple brightness levels when you
run a tube way below rated power (with filament heating to
compensate), this is semi-easy to do using large tubes, which makes
the whole setup even cheaper. And since you can in such a setup start
tubes at reduced brightness, low cost magnetic ballasts are more ok.


b) I'll standardise on 2' T8 tubes. There are 3 short sections that would
benefit from 2' tubes. 3 x 2' tubes for the 8' wall and 4 tubes for the 10'
wall.

There are Philips HF gear units that drive 3-4 2' T8s at no more expense
than the same type of unit for 2 x 4' tubes. Then I'll only need one type of
tube in the spares box and it will be nice and short for easy storage.

I'll just have to take a chance on the brightness, but as its sole function
is to add "daylight mode" to the room, with a GU10x4 spot for the main
lighting, I think it will be fine.

Cheers

Tim

To be honest, brightness is one of the biggest deals, and needs to be
right. Suggest a little experimenting to make sure you get close. You
can use filament bulbs and translate the power required using the
different efficacy values for filament vs tube.


NT

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
news:Cdi_n.11458$hw4.185@hurricane...
Tim Watts wrote:
Matty F
wibbled on Sunday 11 July 2010 10:41

On Jul 11, 9:44 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Having looked at the prices of the pipe boxing, and the corner
radius, it might well be better to try to fashion something out of
bull nose skirting with another bit glued on.

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the edge
round?

No router...

But you neeeeeeed a router Tim!


Dave - The Medway Handyman

I bought one, but then thought of the skirting board, and haven't found a
use for the router after all: shame.

S

John Rumm wrote:
On 11/07/2010 13:32, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:49:51 +0100, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Why not make the boxing out of MDF and use a router to make the
edge
round?

No router...

But you neeeeeeed a router Tim!

But does MDF route nicely? The surfaces is hard and smooth but the
core tends to be a bit soft and fibrous.

It routes well enough for something that will be emulsioned. The routed
ends get a bit more absorbent, so its harder to finish smoothly with
varnish.


I usually give the edges a wipe with filler on a rag. After a light
sanding, they take a finish as well as the faces.