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Old engine oil as wood preserver
After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed
with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. -- David in Normandy. To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the subject line, or it will be automatically deleted by a filter and not reach my inbox. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Jun 7, 3:51*pm, David in Normandy
wrote: After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. I've had mixed results with oil & paraffin, fine in some cases, no good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need preserving though. NT |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On 07/06/2010 17:40, NT wrote:
I've had mixed results with oil& paraffin, fine in some cases, no good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need preserving though. I guess the purpose of the diesel or paraffin is to transport the oil deeper into the wood. Though in the case of this post it didn't seem necessary. Probably because it was well seasoned, and hot day, bone dry wood and rough sawn. Putting the oil on hot probably helped too. It sucked in the first coat very quickly, especially where there were lots of cracks and woodworm holes - I guess capillary action worked there. The second coat applied around half hour later took longer to soak in. I was surprised it became touch dry though by the following day - spouse touched the post and I expected her to get a black oily finger but no. If I try it on less absorbent wood I'll probably try mixing it with a little diesel or petrol first. -- David in Normandy. To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the subject line, or it will be automatically deleted by a filter and not reach my inbox. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Jun 7, 4:54*pm, David in Normandy
wrote: On 07/06/2010 17:40, NT wrote: I've had mixed results with oil& *paraffin, fine in some cases, no good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need preserving though. I guess the purpose of the diesel or paraffin is to transport the oil deeper into the wood. yes Though in the case of this post it didn't seem necessary. Probably because it was well seasoned, and hot day, bone dry wood and rough sawn. Putting the oil on hot probably helped too. It sucked in the first coat very quickly, especially where there were lots of cracks and woodworm holes - I guess capillary action worked there. The second coat applied around half hour later took longer to soak in. I was surprised it became touch dry though by the following day - spouse touched the post and I expected her to get a black oily finger but no. If I try it on less absorbent wood I'll probably try mixing it with a little diesel or petrol first. Your 24 hours versus with paraffin anything from a few minutes to an hour. So you may have much less penetration there. NT |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:51:49 +0200, David in Normandy wrote:
After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. Not sure that it'll stop woodworm. I had woodworm in a bench in a shed; splashed it over several years with old oil, a drop of paraffin, some oil+R11 (CFC) etc. and the little abstrads just kept on muching away! -- Peter. 2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it.
Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
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Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 15:44:53 +0000, newshound
wrote: On 17/02/2019 09:27, wrote: I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it. Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? I'd use a paint mixing paddle, in a cordless drill, at low speed. Carefully. Used engine oil is a health hazard. AB |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 15:44:53 +0000, newshound wrote: On 17/02/2019 09:27, wrote: I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it. Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? I'd use a paint mixing paddle, in a cordless drill, at low speed. Carefully. Used engine oil is a health hazard. AB So's the creosote. It's hard to imagine a preservative that wouldn't be. You can only discriminate to some extent between toxicity to fungi and toxicity to people. -- Roger Hayter |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Sunday, 17 February 2019 09:27:55 UTC, wrote:
I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it. Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? Some "creosote" (creocote) is water based. See if your brush washes out with water to find out. If so, you can thin it with water. It's not as good as the old stuff. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
In 20 years time when you burn it there will much evil poisonous air pollution
[g] On Monday, June 7, 2010 at 3:51:49 PM UTC+1, David in Normandy wrote: After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. -- David in Normandy. To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the subject line, or it will be automatically deleted by a filter and not reach my inbox. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 16:02:36 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote: Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote: On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 15:44:53 +0000, newshound wrote: On 17/02/2019 09:27, wrote: I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it. Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? I'd use a paint mixing paddle, in a cordless drill, at low speed. Carefully. Used engine oil is a health hazard. AB So's the creosote. It's hard to imagine a preservative that wouldn't be. You can only discriminate to some extent between toxicity to fungi and toxicity to people. I don't dispute that. Used engine oil would modify any known hazards associated with the creosote though and I would guess that no serious work has been conducted in respect to combinations of the two. Used engine oil in itself is a variable, the dangers outside the obvious ones of course are the age, the temperature it was used at, engine condition and what additives the owner of the engine used. Given the choice I would use old engine oil. There again I'm clapped aincient and discourage children from the garden. A socially responsible person would indeed use paraffin I suppose, or if it's water based creosote follow harrys suggestion which is actually in keeping with the NG subject matter for once :-) AB |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
"Brian Gaff" wrote in message ... Yes you could end up covering the environment with gloopy gunge. But black is beautiful, after all. "newshound" wrote in message o.uk... On 17/02/2019 09:27, wrote: I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it. Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote? I'd use a paint mixing paddle, in a cordless drill, at low speed. Carefully. |
Lonely Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 04:33:35 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again: FLUSH 04:33 am in Australia, again? Is your senility not letting you sleep in again, senile Rot? And since when have you been actually up and trolling? BG -- "Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed: "You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad little ignorant ****." MID: |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On Monday, 7 June 2010 15:51:49 UTC+1, David in Normandy wrote:
After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts. They rot from the top and at ground level. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
harry wrote:
I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts. They rot from the top and at ground level. I have a few hundred round wooden posts supporting electric fencing around our smallholding. I don't think I have ever had one 'rot from the top'. When they fail it's *always* at or just below the surface of the ground where they tend to stay wet *and* there's air. The portion deeper in the ground is usually still in one piece and can be extracted by screwing a large screw into it and pulling up with the tractor's 3-point linkage. The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound still. These are standard treated round wooden posts. -- Chris Green ยท |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
"harry" wrote in message
... On Monday, 7 June 2010 15:51:49 UTC+1, David in Normandy wrote: After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil. I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too. The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite good with the makeshift *creosote*. I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts. They rot from the top and at ground level. Large square fence posts here on the farm get a good soaking with real creosote, but over the years the tops do tend to have water sit on them even when cut at a steep angle. Now I install a simple cap folded from sheet lead which solves the problem. Andrew |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
Chris Green wrote:
harry wrote: I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts. They rot from the top and at ground level. I have a few hundred round wooden posts supporting electric fencing around our smallholding. I don't think I have ever had one 'rot from the top'. When they fail it's *always* at or just below the surface of the ground where they tend to stay wet *and* there's air. +1. Just replacing my garden fence (which is about 25 years old) and whilst theres a little rot at the top of some posts, its not structurally damaging. As you say, the problem is at ground level. Im treating the bottoms of my new posts with creosote (the real stuff). Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
Tim+ wrote:
Chris Green wrote: harry wrote: I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place. If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts. They rot from the top and at ground level. I have a few hundred round wooden posts supporting electric fencing around our smallholding. I don't think I have ever had one 'rot from the top'. When they fail it's *always* at or just below the surface of the ground where they tend to stay wet *and* there's air. +1. Just replacing my garden fence (which is about 25 years old) and whilst there's a little rot at the top of some posts, it's not structurally damaging. As you say, the problem is at ground level. I'm treating the bottoms of my new posts with creosote (the real stuff). Tim Possibly it depends on the local climate. Round here (mid-Wales) it tends to be on the damp side, and posts seem to rot from the top almost as much as at the base. -- Roger Hayter |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On 2/18/2019 4:25 AM, Chris Green wrote:
The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound still. These are standard treated round wooden posts. It may not happen often, but it _does_ happen. We had gateposts supporting a standard metal farm gate, which looked sound, but rotted away on the inside, from the top down. I don't know what treatment, if any, they received, as they were there when we bought the place. Most rot does seem to happen at ground level, but not all. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On 2/18/2019 6:47 AM, Roger Hayter wrote:
Tim+ wrote: +1. Just replacing my garden fence (which is about 25 years old) and whilst there's a little rot at the top of some posts, it's not structurally damaging. As you say, the problem is at ground level. I'm treating the bottoms of my new posts with creosote (the real stuff). Possibly it depends on the local climate. Round here (mid-Wales) it tends to be on the damp side, and posts seem to rot from the top almost as much as at the base. Same on the north coast of Scotland. More rot at the base, but the tops rot, too. Folk up here often put a little 'hat' or mini-roof on top of the post. |
Old engine oil as wood preserver
On 18/02/2019 13:32, S Viemeister wrote:
On 2/18/2019 4:25 AM, Chris Green wrote: The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound still. These are standard treated round wooden posts. It may not happen often, but it _does_ happen. We had gateposts supporting a standard metal farm gate, which looked sound, but rotted away on the inside, from the top down. I don't know what treatment, if any, they received, as they were there when we bought the place. Most rot does seem to happen at ground level, but not all. The conditions for rot are nutrient water AND air ... Things don't rot in deserts. Nor do they rot at the bottom of bogs. There are a few anaerobic fungi, but not many. -- A leader is best When people barely know he exists. Of a good leader, who talks little,When his work is done, his aim fulfilled,They will say, We did this ourselves. Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching |
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