Andy Dingleberry wrote:

Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
to know-it-all ****wit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
a lamination.

And again:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Br...ated_glass.JPG

And for the hard of thinking "tempered" is a synonym for "toughened":

"Toughened glass (also known as tempered glass) is a type of safety glass that has increased
strength and will usually shatter in small, square pieces when broken."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archite...red_gl ass.29

What sort of "glass laminator" have you been talking to Dingleberry? An imaginary one?

On 24 May, 07:35, Cicero wrote:
If the window sill has been painted several times (several paint layers) then you could easily have more than a millimetre thickness of paint. Stripping the paint from the sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might give you the required clearance without any need to grind the glass or plane down the sill. You might also gain some extra clearance on the sill using a wood scraper or just coarse sand paper. Paint stripper is available from any decorating shop - Nitromors is widely used.

I like this idea! Also, an update (which I wrote before reading
your post) -

I rang the glass shop, and explained that I wanted 2mm removed from
the height of the 3 sheets of glass - to reduce the height dimension
of each sheet from 848mm to 846mm. Originally, I said 1mm in my
previous posts, but I now want an extra 1mm more, just to make sure
the glass will fit OK. Unfortunately, the glass shop explained to me
that it's a non trivial task, because the glass is so thick, at
10.8mm. Also, they can't do anything until later on this week. I was
not given a price, because they weren't sure how much it would cost.
I asked them if they could cut the minimum amount off the height of
the glass sheets, and they said that the smallest cut they could do
was about 50mm. That's probably too much.

So, I may have to go back to Plan B, and that is to alter the window
sill in some way - to reduce the height of it by 1mm or 2mm, so I can
get the glass sheets to fit OK. However, shaving off large sections
of the window sill wood will probably be a maintenance problem when I
come to vacate the flat - to make it look like the sill hasn't been
altered in any way. I've got to think of a better way of reducing the
height of the window sill, which is then much easier to patch up when
I leave the flat. How about some kind of very sharp and small width
"wood chisel", which can cut/shave a thin width "trench" (eg 11mm just
enough for the 10.8mm thickness of the glass to sit in), in to the
surface of the window sill? Afterwards, I can just fill in that
"trench" with wood putty or something, and then paint over it.

Would a "wood chisel" and a "wood scraper" be the same kind of tool?
BTW, there doesn't look like there's lots of paint on the window sill
wood.

On 24 May, 10:51, Cicero wrote:

(snip)

If you want to try using a chisel (say about 1/2") mark the position of the groove and score the edges deeply with a Stanley knife. Then work from the centre with your (very sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window reveal. Use the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created a groove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held vertically) along the bottom of the groove.

Thanks! I'm going to get a chisel from a local hardware store and do
this.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 23 May, 10:47, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
rpgs rock dvds wrote:

thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off

essentially no.

Especiially if toughened.

Have a grown-up explain the differences between "laminated" and
"toughened" to you.

Being laminated does not exclude being toughened.
For example car windscreens are toughened and laminated.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 23 May, 12:19, (Steve Firth) wrote:

Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass which
are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass, the
polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.

Bull**** Steve.

Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
to know-it-all ****wit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
a lamination.

If you find a way of doing this, there's a market calling out for it.
If you think you can do it with a cold adhesive laminate then there's
already a market for that, but it's no use to man nor beast as it
looks bad and it has no more strength than plain toughened.

They use such laminates in shopping centres like Merry Hill and in
escalators and balconies (well the ones that are done properly).
You can go and look at the toughening marks and the plastic interlayer if
you want to actually see some.

BTW why can't you have a toughened glass laminate?

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
rpgs rock dvds wrote:

It's
thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.

Pilkington can do it. I doubt that you could at home. If you could,
you'd be the sort of person who makes his own telescope lenses and
mirrors and you'd know what to do. As others have said, if it's
toughened glass, which is probably is, then all bets are off.

DTGTTS.
Grinding mirrors is easy, correcting them is harder.

"rpgs rock dvds" wrote in message
...
On 23 May, 15:21, (Steve Firth) wrote:
light comes on

So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?

[ ... (snip) ]

Or am I misunderstanding you again?

A-ha! No, you're correct. That's all I want to do. The glass is
10.8mm thick, and that's perfect - just what I need. The problem is
that the height of the glass (848mm) is fractionally too tall. If I
could reduce this height dimension to 847mm, it would then fit snugly
inside the inner window recess area.

Problem solved perhaps? I'll ring the glazing shop tomorrow morning,
and report back with their answer+price.
Thanks.

You will almost certainly find its cheaper to have ~30 mm cut off top and
side and make a frame to put it in (assuming its not toughened).
It will also be easier to fix when its framed.
For sound deadening you want at least 100 mm gap between the panes BTW.

On 24 May, 11:40, "dennis@home" wrote:
For sound deadening you want at least 100 mm gap between the panes BTW.

Luckily, there's approximately that width gap between the existing
double glazing, and where I intend to prop up these sheets of
"temporary secondary glazing" glass.

In article , rpgs rock dvds wrote:
How about some kind of very sharp and small width
"wood chisel", which can cut/shave a thin width "trench" (eg 11mm just
enough for the 10.8mm thickness of the glass to sit in), in to the
surface of the window sill?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rebate_plane

rpgs rock dvds wrote:
I bought some glass, but it's about 1mm too tall. (It would take a
long dull paragraph to explain everything, so I'll skip that.) It's
thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.

Man next door has a job replacing JCB and other plant glass and he tells
me that the shortest crop you can do with laminated glass is 10 mm and
it involves using heat on the double scribe line.

I would go for the way another poster wrote and chop it by 50 mm and
make a frame.

Dave