Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop. The
sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm at
between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop. The
sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm at
between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve




If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using
car body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.


Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body
filler will stop excessive flexure.

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using car
body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body filler
will stop excessive flexure.

Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But I
don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was a
bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated from a
surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through, compared to
using silicone.

Steve

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

Steve wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using car
body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body filler
will stop excessive flexure.

Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But I
don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was a
bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated from a
surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through, compared to
using silicone.


You haven't seen what happens to a car repaired with body filler in a
bijou crashette, have you?

Usually tears the steel long before the filler separates..
Steve

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening
the clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra
clips to spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I
contact Franke. Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well
and truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do
this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using
car body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body
filler will stop excessive flexure.

Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But
I don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was
a bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated
from a surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through,
compared to using silicone.


You haven't seen what happens to a car repaired with body filler in a
bijou crashette, have you?

Usually tears the steel long before the filler separates..

Ahah. I didn't know car body filler was that strong. Will definetely
consider it.

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a
worktop. The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps
of up to 7mm at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I've never seen even a cheap Wickes sink bowed by that much. Get it
replaced.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink
 

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a
worktop. The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps
of up to 7mm at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I've never seen even a cheap Wickes sink bowed by that much. Get it
replaced.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Thanks. I thought it was excessive.
Steve