I've finally got fed up enough with a cold water tap in a toilet not
working that I think I might fix it. (In my defence it's not utterly
trivial as I'm going to have to freeze the pipe and insert a valve so
it's an easier job in future.)

The fix is probably dead simple (a washer squished into the wrong place
I suspect) but I can't immediately figure out how to dismantle the tap.
The taps look a bit like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11604/...ps-Chrome-Pair

I'd

have thought that the metal top (inside the red/blue ring) would screw
off with a little downwards pressure, but it doesn't. What's the trick?

As an aside, any recommendations on what full bore valve to use (we
have little enough pressure that I don't want to use a non-full bore
one). I see these from screwfix, but it seems a little pricey:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21860/...alve-15mm-Blue

Thanks,
Piers

On 26/04/2010 13:54, Piers Finlayson wrote:
I've finally got fed up enough with a cold water tap in a toilet not
working that I think I might fix it. (In my defence it's not utterly
trivial as I'm going to have to freeze the pipe and insert a valve so
it's an easier job in future.)

The fix is probably dead simple (a washer squished into the wrong place
I suspect) but I can't immediately figure out how to dismantle the tap.
The taps look a bit like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11604/...ps-Chrome-Pair


I'd
have thought that the metal top (inside the red/blue ring) would screw
off with a little downwards pressure, but it doesn't. What's the trick?

They probably don't. Yes, I have had screw on ones in the past, but
these days it's a bit of metalised plastic that clips in. Shove a small
electrical screw driver in the ring gap and leaver.

Funny you mention taps, my bath hot tap 'head valve' refused this
morning to open to maximum. I get a dribble. Now, off to B&Q to get
another head (standard replacement bit inside - the last one didn't last
long).

--
Adrian C

Piers Finlayson wrote:
I've finally got fed up enough with a cold water tap in a toilet not
working that I think I might fix it. (In my defence it's not utterly
trivial as I'm going to have to freeze the pipe and insert a valve so
it's an easier job in future.)

The fix is probably dead simple (a washer squished into the wrong place
I suspect) but I can't immediately figure out how to dismantle the tap.
The taps look a bit like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11604/...ps-Chrome-Pair


I'd
have thought that the metal top (inside the red/blue ring) would screw
off with a little downwards pressure, but it doesn't. What's the trick?


You should be able to just prise the metal top out. Underneath there
will be a screw which will enable you to remove the head. That will
reveal the normal nut type arrangement for removing the screw and washer
mechanism. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal.

Andrew

Funny you mention taps, my bath hot tap 'head valve' refused this
morning to open to maximum. I get a dribble. Now, off to B&Q to get
another head (standard replacement bit inside - the last one didn't last
long).

I had the same problem (it was only going about a quartyer turn) - stripped
it and re-assembled - job fixed it. I believe the problem is due to water
getting past the first "O" Ring and then causing it to hydraulically lock
due to the water being incompressable.

To strip - remove the circlip on the shaft and press the spindle down to
remove the spindle from the body. Re-assemble with a bit of lubrication.

On 26/04/2010 14:26, John wrote:
Funny you mention taps, my bath hot tap 'head valve' refused this
morning to open to maximum. I get a dribble. Now, off to B&Q to get
another head (standard replacement bit inside - the last one didn't last
long).

I had the same problem (it was only going about a quartyer turn) - stripped
it and re-assembled - job fixed it. I believe the problem is due to water
getting past the first "O" Ring and then causing it to hydraulically lock
due to the water being incompressable.

To strip - remove the circlip on the shaft and press the spindle down to
remove the spindle from the body. Re-assemble with a bit of lubrication.


Hi John,

Thanks for that.

Striped it down and found in my case the issue was mechanical. There is
a hexagonal column on top of the spigot that sits on the hole where the
water comes up. This column is meant to disapear up the top of the
headwork by the turning of the worm screw inside, but here is where it
occassionally jams tight - and unfortunately I don't have a nearby handy
X-ray machine to see what brass parts interfere with each other. Oh
well, it's knackered.

Trotted out to B&Q and got a replacement (last time - £2.39, now £3.99!)
which fitted well. It'll do until the whole bathroom gets an upcoming
replacement.

--
Adrian C

"Piers Finlayson" wrote in message
...
I've finally got fed up enough with a cold water tap in a toilet not
working that I think I might fix it. (In my defence it's not utterly
trivial as I'm going to have to freeze the pipe and insert a valve so it's
an easier job in future.)

The fix is probably dead simple (a washer squished into the wrong place I
suspect) but I can't immediately figure out how to dismantle the tap. The
taps look a bit like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11604/...ps-Chrome-Pair

I'd
have thought that the metal top (inside the red/blue ring) would screw off
with a little downwards pressure, but it doesn't. What's the trick?

As an aside, any recommendations on what full bore valve to use (we have
little enough pressure that I don't want to use a non-full bore one). I
see these from screwfix, but it seems a little pricey:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21860/...alve-15mm-Blue

Thanks,
Piers

Re the full bore valve, I'd certainly go for the type you've indicated
(Which is interesting as when I did mine Screwfix only seemed to do washing
machine valves for water so I bought the gas type which only cost about 1.50
then and look neat.). You may find that your ordinary local 'plumb centre'
or similar has the valve cheaper than it currently is in the Screwfix book.
I'd personally avoid the slotted type valve, as just about every time I've
gone to turn one of these the o-ring inside has broken and leaked.

I did for a time have a clever valve with a press button action, on the loo
filler pipe, but I couldn't find any more the last time I looked. I think
this non-turning type - if you can find it - less likely to break seals,
though others may have different stories...

S