I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is treated for above
ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply to it to provide some
additional protection, and also some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking is not to
paint (I know, best protection but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer
the natural wood look). A friend recommends boiled linseed oil. From I've
seen this would probably be the cheapest option, but how good is it? I read an
article that refers to these disadvantages:

*Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or doesn't dry
at all (not really a problem on a fence)
*No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance... UV causes more damage to exposed wood
than any other factor, destroying wood fibers and setting it up for attack by
mildew, fungus, and insects.
*Linseed oil is mildew food...Linseed oil is not completely denatured, so it can
encourage rather than discourage mildew growth.

Comments? Any other suggestions?

On Apr 23, 12:15 pm, Gib Bogle wrote:
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is treated for above
ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply to it to provide some
additional protection, and also some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking is not to
paint (I know, best protection but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer
the natural wood look).

I don't know about linseed oil outside. I think you would have to keep
applying it every year.
My picket fence is really easy to paint because each section is hung
on large screws and can easily be lifted off for painting. I rest them
on old sheets of corrugated iron and spray paint the fence, which is
20 times quicker than hand painting.

Matty F wrote:
On Apr 23, 12:15 pm, Gib Bogle wrote:
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is treated for above
ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply to it to provide some
additional protection, and also some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking is not to
paint (I know, best protection but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer
the natural wood look).

I don't know about linseed oil outside. I think you would have to keep
applying it every year.
My picket fence is really easy to paint because each section is hung
on large screws and can easily be lifted off for painting. I rest them
on old sheets of corrugated iron and spray paint the fence, which is
20 times quicker than hand painting.

I don't like the idea of annual applications.

My fence is all nailed together, no sections. Hand-made!

I guess the spray-painting idea is still possible, with a sheet of corrugated
iron for example, by leaning it up against the other side of the fence to catch
the excess spray.

On 23 Apr, 01:15, Gib Bogle wrote:

A friend recommends boiled linseed oil.

Only thing linseed is the right oil for is a cricket bat.

I'd suggest a decent exterior varnish. A spar varnish (more elastic)
if the fence posts are long and thin.

If you want to stick with oil, then a danish oil. These are a 2/3rd
oil / 1/3rd varnish mix, although materials and proportions vary with
brands. Oils just don't last forever outdoors, but this is about as
good as it gets.

Organoil is, AFAIR, Australian and so ought to be available locally.
They've a range of pretty good outdoor oil and varnish finishes.

"Gib Bogle" wrote in message
...
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is treated for
above ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply to it to provide
some additional protection, and also some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking
is not to paint (I know, best protection but more work and presumably
cost, also we prefer the natural wood look). A friend recommends boiled
linseed oil. From I've seen this would probably be the cheapest option,
but how good is it? I read an article that refers to these disadvantages:

*Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or
doesn't dry at all (not really a problem on a fence)
*No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance... UV causes more damage to exposed
wood than any other factor, destroying wood fibers and setting it up for
attack by mildew, fungus, and insects.
*Linseed oil is mildew food...Linseed oil is not completely denatured, so
it can encourage rather than discourage mildew growth.

Comments? Any other suggestions?

For a lot of things linseed oil = food. Not ideal for outdoors. The
'boiled' is supposed to set more quickly, but a walking stick I painted with
the Screwfix variety last year, has been in the airing cupboard ever since
and is still tacky...

Painted picket fence with expensive 'breathable' white coating one year;
mostly fallen off the next. Redid with ordinary outdoor gloss - fine but do
wear sunglasses while applying. Green algae and snail trails blast off with
modern pressure washer, but not on jet, or paint all gone and fence too.
(Slats stainless screwed on, cos kids round here like pulling them off, and
saves on rust in paint.)

S

Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:
On Apr 23, 12:15 pm, Gib Bogle
wrote:
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is
treated for above ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply
to it to provide some additional protection, and also some cosmetic
benefits. Our thinking is not to paint (I know, best protection
but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer the natural
wood look).

I don't know about linseed oil outside. I think you would have to
keep applying it every year.
My picket fence is really easy to paint because each section is hung
on large screws and can easily be lifted off for painting. I rest
them on old sheets of corrugated iron and spray paint the fence,
which is 20 times quicker than hand painting.

I don't like the idea of annual applications.

My fence is all nailed together, no sections. Hand-made!

I guess the spray-painting idea is still possible, with a sheet of
corrugated iron for example, by leaning it up against the other side
of the fence to catch the excess spray.

IMO painting a fence is making a rod for your own back. Paint forms a
coating on the surface which will bubble/flake/blister eventually. Better
off with one of the specialised fench treatments.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Apr 24, 7:31 pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:
On Apr 23, 12:15 pm, Gib Bogle
wrote:
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is
treated for above ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply
to it to provide some additional protection, and also some cosmetic
benefits. Our thinking is not to paint (I know, best protection
but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer the natural
wood look).

I don't know about linseed oil outside. I think you would have to
keep applying it every year.
My picket fence is really easy to paint because each section is hung
on large screws and can easily be lifted off for painting. I rest
them on old sheets of corrugated iron and spray paint the fence,
which is 20 times quicker than hand painting.

I don't like the idea of annual applications.

My fence is all nailed together, no sections. Hand-made!

I guess the spray-painting idea is still possible, with a sheet of
corrugated iron for example, by leaning it up against the other side
of the fence to catch the excess spray.

IMO painting a fence is making a rod for your own back. Paint forms a
coating on the surface which will bubble/flake/blister eventually. Better
off with one of the specialised fench treatments.

I have a tin of Wattyl Deck and Furniture Oil which should be suitable
for a fence, and can be touched up easily if necessary.
Otherwise if the fence is H3 Radiata Pine it needs no treatment and
will turn a silver colour.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:
On Apr 23, 12:15 pm, Gib Bogle
wrote:
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is
treated for above ground use). I've trying to decide what to apply
to it to provide some additional protection, and also some cosmetic
benefits. Our thinking is not to paint (I know, best protection
but more work and presumably cost, also we prefer the natural
wood look).
I don't know about linseed oil outside. I think you would have to
keep applying it every year.
My picket fence is really easy to paint because each section is hung
on large screws and can easily be lifted off for painting. I rest
them on old sheets of corrugated iron and spray paint the fence,
which is 20 times quicker than hand painting.
I don't like the idea of annual applications.

My fence is all nailed together, no sections. Hand-made!

I guess the spray-painting idea is still possible, with a sheet of
corrugated iron for example, by leaning it up against the other side
of the fence to catch the excess spray.

IMO painting a fence is making a rod for your own back. Paint forms a
coating on the surface which will bubble/flake/blister eventually. Better
off with one of the specialised fench treatments.

French? Ah, fence. I think the same way. I guess what you're saying is don't
go half way with linseed oil, but use something more targetted to the application.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 23 Apr, 01:15, Gib Bogle wrote:

A friend recommends boiled linseed oil.

Only thing linseed is the right oil for is a cricket bat.

I'd suggest a decent exterior varnish. A spar varnish (more elastic)
if the fence posts are long and thin.

If you want to stick with oil, then a danish oil. These are a 2/3rd
oil / 1/3rd varnish mix, although materials and proportions vary with
brands. Oils just don't last forever outdoors, but this is about as
good as it gets.

Organoil is, AFAIR, Australian and so ought to be available locally.
They've a range of pretty good outdoor oil and varnish finishes.

Will check it out.

Matty F wrote:
On Apr 24, 7:31 pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:

I have a tin of Wattyl Deck and Furniture Oil which should be suitable
for a fence, and can be touched up easily if necessary.
Otherwise if the fence is H3 Radiata Pine it needs no treatment and
will turn a silver colour.

Thanks for that suggestion. I agree about the "no treatment" policy (it's all
H2 pine), but her indoors has other ideas - she thinks that attractive silver
colour looks old and tired and uncared-for.

Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:
On Apr 24, 7:31 pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Gib Bogle wrote:
Matty F wrote:

I have a tin of Wattyl Deck and Furniture Oil which should be suitable
for a fence, and can be touched up easily if necessary.
Otherwise if the fence is H3 Radiata Pine it needs no treatment and
will turn a silver colour.

Thanks for that suggestion. I agree about the "no treatment" policy
(it's all H2 pine), but her indoors has other ideas - she thinks that
attractive silver colour looks old and tired and uncared-for.

Better than tired and uncared for and covered in streaks of ginger
coloured stain, which is how our local park benches look after last
year's makeover.

In message
"spamlet" wrote:


"Gib Bogle" wrote in message
...
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is
treated for above ground use). I've trying to decide what to
apply to it to provide some additional protection, and also
some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking is not to paint (I know,
best protection but more work and presumably cost, also we
prefer the natural wood look). A friend recommends boiled
linseed oil. From I've seen this would probably be the
cheapest option, but how good is it? I read an article that
refers to these disadvantages:



For a lot of things linseed oil = food. Not ideal for outdoors.
The 'boiled' is supposed to set more quickly, but a walking stick
I painted with the Screwfix variety last year, has been in the
airing cupboard ever since and is still tacky...

Linseed oil needs to breath after application, you need light and
oxygen for it to dry properly. If you put your walking stick in a
naturally lit and well ventilated area it will dry.

When used in paint, raw linseed oil retards the drying process
whereas boiled linseed oil accelerates the process, boiled is/was
normally used in synthetic paints.

We used to use raw linseed to slow down the drying process on some
coach work that required a slower drying window, (usually on very
large areas) adding more boiled oil would unnecessarily speed up
the drying process but they both still need light and ventilation
to encourage the absorption of oxygen which helps it to dry.

Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

wrote in message
...
In message
"spamlet" wrote:


"Gib Bogle" wrote in message
...
I've just made a picket fence, with H3 treated timber (this is
treated for above ground use). I've trying to decide what to
apply to it to provide some additional protection, and also
some cosmetic benefits. Our thinking is not to paint (I know,
best protection but more work and presumably cost, also we
prefer the natural wood look). A friend recommends boiled
linseed oil. From I've seen this would probably be the
cheapest option, but how good is it? I read an article that
refers to these disadvantages:



For a lot of things linseed oil = food. Not ideal for outdoors.
The 'boiled' is supposed to set more quickly, but a walking stick
I painted with the Screwfix variety last year, has been in the
airing cupboard ever since and is still tacky...

Linseed oil needs to breath after application, you need light and
oxygen for it to dry properly. If you put your walking stick in a
naturally lit and well ventilated area it will dry.

When used in paint, raw linseed oil retards the drying process
whereas boiled linseed oil accelerates the process, boiled is/was
normally used in synthetic paints.

We used to use raw linseed to slow down the drying process on some
coach work that required a slower drying window, (usually on very
large areas) adding more boiled oil would unnecessarily speed up
the drying process but they both still need light and ventilation
to encourage the absorption of oxygen which helps it to dry.

Stephen.

Thanks for the tips, I'll hang my sticks back outside.
Who knows, I might get a second coat on some time and even finish the
sticks!
I remember boiling my own linseed oil years ago, and probably made a better
job of it than Screwfix - who don't seem to sell it any more...

Cheers,
S

S

In message
"spamlet" wrote:


wrote in message
...
In message
"spamlet" wrote:




For a lot of things linseed oil = food. Not ideal for outdoors.
The 'boiled' is supposed to set more quickly, but a walking stick
I painted with the Screwfix variety last year, has been in the
airing cupboard ever since and is still tacky...

Linseed oil needs to breath after application, you need light and
oxygen for it to dry properly. If you put your walking stick in a
naturally lit and well ventilated area it will dry.

When used in paint, raw linseed oil retards the drying process
whereas boiled linseed oil accelerates the process, boiled is/was
normally used in synthetic paints.

We used to use raw linseed to slow down the drying process on some
coach work that required a slower drying window, (usually on very
large areas) adding more boiled oil would unnecessarily speed up
the drying process but they both still need light and ventilation
to encourage the absorption of oxygen which helps it to dry.

Stephen.

Thanks for the tips, I'll hang my sticks back outside.
Who knows, I might get a second coat on some time and even finish the
sticks!
I remember boiling my own linseed oil years ago, and probably
made a better job of it than Screwfix - who don't seem to sell it
any more...

Cheers,
S

You have to be careful you don't overcook the oil though.

You would be better off going to your local household paint
supplier who would specialise in paints and sundry items etc.

Boiled and raw Linseed oil are still extensively available.

Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

On 25 Apr, 05:24, wrote:

Boiled and raw Linseed oil are still extensively available.

There are several different forms of "boiled" linseed. As far as true
oils made by prolonged boiling go, they're effectively unavailable.
The stuff sold today as "boiled" is an unboiled warm mixture with a
pre-made drier compound, almost always cobalt-based. The classic
boiled oils used lead, manganese or a mixture of the two cooked into
the oil with prolonged heated. Owing to the lead content, these are
now unavailable - even though their final lead content was only ever a
fraction of a percent, rather than the 30% seen in paint with lead
pigments.

I make my own lead boiled oils, as do a handful of sources for
reenactment purposes (mostly oilcloth, some for firearms stocking).
Selling it is possible, but has paperwork issues. The stuff is very
different to modern "boiled linseed" oils, particularly for its
fexibility and water resistance.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 25 Apr, 05:24, wrote:

Boiled and raw Linseed oil are still extensively available.

There are several different forms of "boiled" linseed. As far as true
oils made by prolonged boiling go, they're effectively unavailable.
The stuff sold today as "boiled" is an unboiled warm mixture with a
pre-made drier compound, almost always cobalt-based. The classic
boiled oils used lead, manganese or a mixture of the two cooked into
the oil with prolonged heated. Owing to the lead content, these are
now unavailable - even though their final lead content was only ever a
fraction of a percent, rather than the 30% seen in paint with lead
pigments.

I make my own lead boiled oils, as do a handful of sources for
reenactment purposes (mostly oilcloth, some for firearms stocking).
Selling it is possible, but has paperwork issues. The stuff is very
different to modern "boiled linseed" oils, particularly for its
fexibility and water resistance.

Yuk!

I don't remember seeing any warnings about poisonous constituents before!
They don't put anything in the 'raw' as well do they?

S