Chipboard flooring
 

I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with 25mm
by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the chipboard
to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark

Chipboard flooring
 

mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with 25mm
by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the chipboard
to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark





Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't
move, it's not going anywhere

Chipboard flooring
 

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark





Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't move,
it's not going anywhere

Good point. But the 'trapped boards' wouldn't have an expansion gap. Does
chipboard need an expansion gap?

Chipboard flooring
 

On Dec 13, 1:48*pm, "mark" wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
mark wrote:

I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?

mark

Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't move,
it's not going anywhere

Good point. But the 'trapped boards' wouldn't have an expansion gap. Does
chipboard need an expansion gap?

no. You can pretty much fix it how you like, or not fix at all. Gluing
the edges together only makes life harder later.


NT

Chipboard flooring
 

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark





Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't move,
it's not going anywhere

If you don't fix it down *occasionally* it'll squeak, creak, wobble etc on
the less than perfectly flat and aligned battens and be thoroughly
annoying - forever!

Chipboard flooring
 

mark wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark




Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't move,
it's not going anywhere

Good point. But the 'trapped boards' wouldn't have an expansion gap. Does
chipboard need an expansion gap?




Not unless you're expecting it to get wet

Chipboard flooring
 

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?

Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't
move, it's not going anywhere

Wouldn't it be likely to squeak and groan if not secured?

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Chipboard flooring
 

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?

Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't
move, it's not going anywhere

Wouldn't it be likely to squeak and groan if not secured?


Not IME, but I suppose it depends how level the battens are

Chipboard flooring
 

Phil Jessop wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
m...
mark wrote:
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?

Do you need to fix it at all? As long as the perimeter boards can't move,
it's not going anywhere

If you don't fix it down *occasionally* it'll squeak, creak, wobble etc on
the less than perfectly flat and aligned battens and be thoroughly
annoying - forever!

I don't like glue particularly as it means you've got no chance of ever
lifting in cleanly in the future should the need arise.

I recently had to take up a chipboard floor in order to do some work
beneath it, and took the trouble to try and sort out the dreadful
creaking noise it made whenever walked on. Advice obtained from this
group was to put polythene across all the chipboard joints; anyway, I
went a bit overboard on that front and chopped up several h/d polythene
rubble bags into long strips a few inched wide, which I laid along the
floor joists as well as round the perimeter of each board (ie, at the
chipboard interfaces/joints).

It's the sort of thing only a d-i-y'er would ever take the time to do;
while I was doing it I could just picture in my mind a 'pro' watching
me, eyes rolling heaven-ward and thinking "what a prat!" - but the
upshot is that the floor of that room is competely and utterly rigid and
noise-free, unlike IIRC any other room in the house.

David

Chipboard flooring
 

"mark" wrote in message
...
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


mark





Conclusion:
Just lay it unfixed.
If it squeaks, rattles or rolls then sink some screws into the affected
area.
Remember to mark batten positions on wall.


Thanks

mark

Chipboard flooring
 

mark wrote:
"mark" wrote in message
...
I am about to fit a chipboard floor.

The existing concrete floor has been covered with a dpm and fixed with
25mm by 50mm battens to receive the chipboard with jablite in between.

Should I screw/nail the chipboard to the battens or just glue the
chipboard to itself along the t&g joints.

If glue, which glue?


Conclusion:
Just lay it unfixed.
If it squeaks, rattles or rolls then sink some screws into the affected
area.
Remember to mark batten positions on wall.

I've just been laying a chipboard floor, if you don't secure it I found
it to creak as the tongue and grooves flex slightly and bounce a lot
when you walk on it. In the end I glued up all the tongue and grooves,
and glued it down to the joists. Very solid and silent job resulted,
much better than when I just had the boards resting under gravity.

The manufacturer gives details of how to install he

http://www.kronospan.co.uk/102449.file.dld

Note:

"We have already described how Kronofloor will react to changes in
moisture. To eliminate any problems after installation the following
instructions must be implemented. These guidelines apply to both joisted
and floating floors. Allow a clear movement gap of 2mm per metre run of
floor at each wall and an absolute minimum gap of 12mm at each wall.
Gaps should be left around rigid up stands including pipes. For floors
where the movement gap cannot be dealt with at the perimeter alone or
which are in excess of 6 metres long e.g. corridors, intermediate
expansion gaps (minimum 12mm), should be incorporated. Expansion gaps
can be hidden at door thresholds. Do not allow the movement gap to be
obstructed with debris and maintain perimeter gaps using packers or
wedges. Remove immediately after adhesive has set."

As for glue, in the tongue and grooves I used:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhe.../sd3198/p61864
(excellent stuff all round)

and to the joists I used:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhe.../sd3199/p10243

to provide a bit tolerance to the unevenness of Victorian joists.

I also fastened it down every 400mm with 1 1/2" wood screws, clearance
drilled through the chipboard so as to pull it down hard to the joist.
Any potential for movement or flexing results in creaks. Next job is to
lay Amtico after the plaster has been...