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Default The revolution has started!

Fitted a (genuine) Yale lock today. Instructions said;

To lubricate, use WD40 or similar!

Oh yes!

In black & white, from the people who invented the cylinder pin-tumbler
lock. Lubricate with WD40!

Oh yes!


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.


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On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 20:50:10 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Fitted a (genuine) Yale lock today. Instructions said;

To lubricate, use WD40 or similar!

Oh yes!

In black & white, from the people who invented the cylinder pin-tumbler
lock. Lubricate with WD40!


I fitted a new cylinder a few weeks ago.

I was given the same instructions.

I ignored them. I use powdered graphite.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

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On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 21:54:58 +0100, John Rumm wrote:
Maybe they get to sell more locks that way... ;-)


Git, you beat me to it


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On 6 Oct, 22:07, Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 20:50:10 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Fitted a (genuine) Yale lock today. *Instructions said;


To lubricate, use WD40 or similar!


Oh yes!


In black & white, from the people who invented the cylinder pin-tumbler
lock. *Lubricate with WD40!


I fitted a new cylinder a few weeks ago.

I was given the same instructions.

I ignored them. I use powdered graphite.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
*http://www.mirrorservice.org


I was trying to remember what the problem is - it goes sticky doesn't
it ? Maybe that would explain why the sections of my wife's walking
poles ended up as a solid mass.

Rob
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On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:11:43 -0700 (PDT), Rob G wrote:

I was trying to remember what the problem is - it goes sticky doesn't
it ? Maybe that would explain why the sections of my wife's walking
poles ended up as a solid mass.


Yes, leaves a sticky residue that a part from gummimg things up also
attracts dirt. Dirt that then gets made into a nice grinding paste
with the residue, so yes it's a means of selling more locks.

--
Cheers
Dave.





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On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 14:12:48 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:11:43 -0700 (PDT), Rob G wrote:

I was trying to remember what the problem is - it goes sticky doesn't
it ? Maybe that would explain why the sections of my wife's walking
poles ended up as a solid mass.


Yes, leaves a sticky residue that a part from gummimg things up also
attracts dirt. Dirt that then gets made into a nice grinding paste
with the residue, so yes it's a means of selling more locks.


Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches, locks
etc?
Sometimes oil or grease has gone thick in something realtively inaccessible
(the last pull-switch that I stripped and rebuilt now works freely but
skips sometimes, but 'tis old). Also, a thin film of something is sometimes
better than oil or grease.

BTW, found a good use for WD40: quick spray on blades of hedge clippers,
sickle etc. and rub it in forms a thin film that isn't sticky enough to
hold on to leaves and grass. Now I can start to use it.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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In article ,
PeterC writes:

BTW, found a good use for WD40: quick spray on blades of hedge clippers,
sickle etc. and rub it in forms a thin film that isn't sticky enough to
hold on to leaves and grass. Now I can start to use it.


It probably makes a good resin solvent. My hedge trimmer says
resin solvent should be sprayed on the blades, but I haven't
gone looking for any yet (and may just use WD40).

However, beware that WD40 will strip off any oil film, leaving
the blades liable to rust in storage. Might want to apply a
spray-on oil after the WD40 has evaporated.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:44:18 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 14:12:48 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:11:43 -0700 (PDT), Rob G wrote:

I was trying to remember what the problem is - it goes sticky doesn't
it ? Maybe that would explain why the sections of my wife's walking
poles ended up as a solid mass.


Yes, leaves a sticky residue that a part from gummimg things up also
attracts dirt. Dirt that then gets made into a nice grinding paste
with the residue, so yes it's a means of selling more locks.


Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches, locks
etc?
Sometimes oil or grease has gone thick in something realtively inaccessible
(the last pull-switch that I stripped and rebuilt now works freely but
skips sometimes, but 'tis old). Also, a thin film of something is sometimes
better than oil or grease.

BTW, found a good use for WD40: quick spray on blades of hedge clippers,
sickle etc. and rub it in forms a thin film that isn't sticky enough to
hold on to leaves and grass. Now I can start to use it.

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 17:06:55 +0100, CarlBriggs wrote:

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component devices.


If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


MRD.



--
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http://www.mirrorservice.org

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CarlBriggs wrote:

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Carl - where have you been? I've been fighting the WD40 corner all alone
for ages. :-)

Together we could form a military wing!


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.




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PeterC wrote:

Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches, locks
etc?


PTFE dry-film lubricating spray.

Contains tiny balls of PTFE (Teflon) suspended in volatile solvents. The
solvents evaporate leaving the PTFE as a dry-film lubricant.

Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the key
and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason alone.

Graphite powder is good, but puffing into the lock tends to over-egg the
pudding somewhat and then that gets everywhere (your hands, your face,
up your nose, etc).

Best to use PTFE dry-film or get a soft pencil and rub it over the key,
then use the key to transfer the small amount of pencil lead to the lock.


Cheapest dry-film lubricant is from Toolstation @ £2.58:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ygosmvm

The locksmith trade uses GT85:

http://www.gt85.co.uk/products.htm which you can buy from Amazon,
Halfords, your local cycling shop, etc. £3.50-£4.50

Screwfix sells this product:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80487 @ £2.83 which, judging by its MSDS
should be OK as well.

HTH
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Dave Osborne wrote:
PeterC wrote:

Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches,
locks etc?


PTFE dry-film lubricating spray.

Contains tiny balls of PTFE (Teflon) suspended in volatile solvents.
The solvents evaporate leaving the PTFE as a dry-film lubricant.

Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the
key and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason
alone.


Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.


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The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave Osborne wrote:
PeterC wrote:

Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches,
locks etc?

PTFE dry-film lubricating spray.

Contains tiny balls of PTFE (Teflon) suspended in volatile solvents.
The solvents evaporate leaving the PTFE as a dry-film lubricant.

Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the
key and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason
alone.


Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!



Ignorance on the part of the marketing dept.?

Plenty of so-called "professional locksmiths" use WD40 to lubricate
locks. Makes my blood boil, but what can you do? Way of the world these
days.

For some people, ignorance is championed as a human right and is proudly
worn as a badge of honour.
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On Thu, 8 Oct 2009 13:38:17 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
PeterC writes:

BTW, found a good use for WD40: quick spray on blades of hedge clippers,
sickle etc. and rub it in forms a thin film that isn't sticky enough to
hold on to leaves and grass. Now I can start to use it.


It probably makes a good resin solvent. My hedge trimmer says
resin solvent should be sprayed on the blades, but I haven't
gone looking for any yet (and may just use WD40).

However, beware that WD40 will strip off any oil film, leaving
the blades liable to rust in storage. Might want to apply a
spray-on oil after the WD40 has evaporated.


I'll try just WD40 for this Winter and see if there is any rust. It won't
be serious - a quick rub with sandpaper will fix it. On the site it has:

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant
ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements"

So...?
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:15:33 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:
Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the
key and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason
alone.


Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!


Ignorance on the part of the marketing dept.?


Or the makers of WD40 paid them a handsome sum to have their product
mentioned in the Yale literature, and greed took over?

It's only use is in being half-assed at lots of jobs, making it useful in
situations where it's not practical to carry armfuls of alternate and
better products around - but personally I don't touch it for anything
that I care about or won't be quickly stripping down, cleaning, and
re-lubing with something more appropriate for the job.

For some people, ignorance is championed as a human right and is proudly
worn as a badge of honour.


It always comes down to being cheap, ignorant, or lazy. Sometimes all
three. Something that marketing departments know all too well :-(

cheers

Jules



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The Medway Handyman wrote:


Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!



But they only recommend it for validity of guarantee. Does that mean
that non-use just allows them to achieve a measure of guarantee-evasion?
Also, how you you find an equivalent to a proprietary, patented product?

"Lubricate periodically with WD40 or equivalent depending on application
for validity of guarantee."

.... and shouldn't that be 'in blue and yellow'?

--
Rod
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 17:06:55 +0100, had
this to say:

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:44:18 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 14:12:48 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:11:43 -0700 (PDT), Rob G wrote:

I was trying to remember what the problem is - it goes sticky doesn't
it ? Maybe that would explain why the sections of my wife's walking
poles ended up as a solid mass.

Yes, leaves a sticky residue that a part from gummimg things up also
attracts dirt. Dirt that then gets made into a nice grinding paste
with the residue, so yes it's a means of selling more locks.


Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches, locks
etc?
Sometimes oil or grease has gone thick in something realtively inaccessible
(the last pull-switch that I stripped and rebuilt now works freely but
skips sometimes, but 'tis old). Also, a thin film of something is sometimes
better than oil or grease.

BTW, found a good use for WD40: quick spray on blades of hedge clippers,
sickle etc. and rub it in forms a thin film that isn't sticky enough to
hold on to leaves and grass. Now I can start to use it.

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Well they would say that, wouldn't they?

I was in engineering for about 40 years (and still potter) and never
found it to be a panacea. OK, it does small jobs after a fashion but
it's never been a proper engineering solution (no pun intended) for
anything other than a quick handyman-type fix.

For locks I would use either PTFE spray or, preferably, graphite
powder lock lubricant.

For penetrating (oo-er!) I'd use PlusGas.

I fail to see how a penetrating fluid can also act as a lubricant...

I'll admit that WD-40 does have a rather nice vanilla-ish smell...
(although I still prefer chocolate sauce on my ice cream).

--
Frank Erskine
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 23:13:49 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:
I fail to see how a penetrating fluid can also act as a lubricant...


I've found that to be a good rule of thumb for all sorts of things, to be
honest - if it claims to do more than one thing, it's nearly always the
wrong tool for the job...


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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:54:01 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

Dave Osborne wrote:
PeterC wrote:

Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches,
locks etc?


PTFE dry-film lubricating spray.

Contains tiny balls of PTFE (Teflon) suspended in volatile solvents.
The solvents evaporate leaving the PTFE as a dry-film lubricant.

Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the
key and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason
alone.


Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!


I _think_ this has been answered previously. Hardware manufacturers
are increasingly desperate to sell you new kit, so they're hardly
likely to promote stuff designed to prolong the life of their existing
products. Since everybody has heard of WD-40, it sounds apposite for
them to 'recommend' it, so as to make their kit 'trendy'.

--
Frank Erskine
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In article ,
Frank Erskine writes:
For locks I would use either PTFE spray or, preferably, graphite
powder lock lubricant.

For penetrating (oo-er!) I'd use PlusGas.

I fail to see how a penetrating fluid can also act as a lubricant...


Any fluid is a lubricant.
As to whether it's still there 5 minutes later,
or if it could withstand the operating pressure,
that's a different question.

I'll admit that WD-40 does have a rather nice vanilla-ish smell...


The scent is a deliberate addition.

(although I still prefer chocolate sauce on my ice cream).


There was a facinating program on Radio 4 a month or two back
on the marketing of WD40. They really sounded like they know
what they're doing.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


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On Thu, 8 Oct 2009 23:03:24 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

There was a facinating program on Radio 4 a month or two back on the
marketing of WD40. They really sounded like they know what they're
doing.


The marketing, yes. Get people to send it all manner of whacky ways
the great unwashed have used the product and publish them as
"testimonials". All "instant fixes" but nothing saying that the
problem did or didn't reoccur or if there was any other bad effects.
The chap they interviewed wasn't quite spouting pure
marketing/management speak but wasn't far from it.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 19:43:29 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

PeterC wrote:

Out of interest, is there a thin spray lube that's OK for switches, locks
etc?


PTFE dry-film lubricating spray.


Now there's a thought. I've not tried that for about 20 years (we had some
at work) and hadn't bought any for bike chains as the Technical Officer of
the CTC reckons it clogs chains (or at least, the lube with oil/PTFE does).

In a switch it could be OK.

Contains tiny balls of PTFE (Teflon) suspended in volatile solvents. The
solvents evaporate leaving the PTFE as a dry-film lubricant.

Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the key
and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason alone.

Yup, but that's true of any attempt to lubricate anything. You should see
the inside of a Vincent gearbox: fill with 40% oil, 40% grease, 20% heavily
soaked jam-rags then churn and heat for 40 years!

Graphite powder is good, but puffing into the lock tends to over-egg the
pudding somewhat and then that gets everywhere (your hands, your face,
up your nose, etc).


That could possibly be carried with some sort of liquid, same as PTFE.

Best to use PTFE dry-film or get a soft pencil and rub it over the key,
then use the key to transfer the small amount of pencil lead to the lock.

Cheapest dry-film lubricant is from Toolstation @ £2.58:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ygosmvm

The locksmith trade uses GT85:

http://www.gt85.co.uk/products.htm which you can buy from Amazon,
Halfords, your local cycling shop, etc. £3.50-£4.50

Screwfix sells this product:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80487 @ £2.83 which, judging by its MSDS
should be OK as well.

HTH


Thanks for the links. Id forgotten about GT85, although it does seem
similar to WD40.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:26:53 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

CarlBriggs wrote:

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Carl - where have you been? I've been fighting the WD40 corner all alone
for ages. :-)

Together we could form a military wing!


WMD45?
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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On Oct 8, 7:26 pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
CarlBriggs wrote:
What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)


WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating


I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Carl - where have you been? I've been fighting the WD40 corner all alone
for ages. :-)

Together we could form a military wing!

--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.


could you make it a secret silent order :)))))

JimK
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PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:26:53 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

CarlBriggs wrote:

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all
the time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Carl - where have you been? I've been fighting the WD40 corner all
alone for ages. :-)

Together we could form a military wing!


WMD45?


WD40 + AK47.


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.




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Frank Erskine wrote:


I was in engineering for about 40 years (and still potter) and never
found it to be a panacea. OK, it does small jobs after a fashion but
it's never been a proper engineering solution (no pun intended) for
anything other than a quick handyman-type fix.


I worked in engineering for 48 years and 25 of those were in the
aerospace industry. While in the latter, I had access to all the oil and
grease books and specifications. Oil was always preceded with O. Grease
with G. Lithium products with L.

Water dispersant's were *always* preceded with WD.

The reason water dispersant's were used was that when aircraft wings
were completed and painted, because they bend up and down all the time,
the paint can crack around the bolts and rivets used on the lower
surface of the wings and they could harbour water under the countersunk
heads, which would cause corrosion if not removed. It was usual to spray
a water dispersant onto the under wing skins on a regular basis.

For locks I would use either PTFE spray or, preferably, graphite
powder lock lubricant.


That is my choice as well.

For penetrating (oo-er!) I'd use PlusGas.

I fail to see how a penetrating fluid can also act as a lubricant...


Imagine using Diesel as a lubricant :-)

Dave
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Jules wrote:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:15:33 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:
Apart from generally being bad, WD40 has a tendency to get onto the
key and then stain your hands/clothes, so it's a bad idea for this reason
alone.
Then why do Yale reccommend WD40 in black & white? Arrrrghh!

Ignorance on the part of the marketing dept.?


Or the makers of WD40 paid them a handsome sum to have their product
mentioned in the Yale literature, and greed took over?

It's only use is in being half-assed at lots of jobs, making it useful in
situations where it's not practical to carry armfuls of alternate and
better products around - but personally I don't touch it for anything
that I care about or won't be quickly stripping down, cleaning, and
re-lubing with something more appropriate for the job.


It's not so often you are wrong.

But you are right here. :-)

The quality of lubricants available to the public is not a patch on
lubricants used in the aerospace industry.

Take greases, the soaps that are used in them are far, far, superior to
those available for cars etc. I have a jar of grease that came from an
out of date container (1). It has stood on my shed shelf for about 15
years and it is still as soft as it was then. No drying at all.

(1) Glass jar that has been open to the atmosphere all the time. I
wouldn't use it for any bearings though.
Out of date? Oil lies under the earth's crust for millions of years, it
gets processed into oils and greases and as soon as it enters the
aerospace industry, a life label gets slapped on it lifing it to 12 months.

Dave
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 17:06:55 +0100, CarlBriggs wrote:

If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Another mug falls for the marketing.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:26:53 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

CarlBriggs wrote:

What an earth are you people rambling on about???? (happy smiley
inserted here)

WD40 has been used for years as penetrating AND lubricating

I have been in engineering for 25 years and WD40 has been used all the
time its well known to be used in locks and any small component
devices.
If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Carl - where have you been? I've been fighting the WD40 corner all alone
for ages. :-)

Together we could form a military wing!

Sorry been lurking too long!!
The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.
In the industry I was in it was the best/cost effective that is
available.
We used the modern PTFE etc based stuff but it was costing an arm an
leg to get the same results as WD40.
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On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant? The idea of a
lubricant is that it forms a coating on the working surfaces - a
'flushing agent' removes any coatings.

It may appear to lubricate short term, but that's just because it's
wetting the surfaces - water would probably be just as effective.

--
Frank Erskine


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On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:20:40 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 17:06:55 +0100, CarlBriggs wrote:

If you look on the site it tells you.
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519


Another mug falls for the marketing.


Posted as an ironic comment
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:55:22 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant? The idea of a
lubricant is that it forms a coating on the working surfaces - a
'flushing agent' removes any coatings.

It may appear to lubricate short term, but that's just because it's
wetting the surfaces - water would probably be just as effective.


I've used engine oil for flushing through a bearing (nothing else available
at the time), with the help of a small brush. That worked well and would
have lubricated the bearing (inadequately) for a time. Then blew hard
through the bearing and packed in grease.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 04:44:59 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant? The idea of a
lubricant is that it forms a coating on the working surfaces - a
'flushing agent' removes any coatings.

It may appear to lubricate short term, but that's just because it's
wetting the surfaces - water would probably be just as effective.


Practical experience would suggest otherwise though. In non demanding
applications it lubricates well enough - e.g. a squeaking hinge will
stop squeaking for a couple of years, before it needs another quick
squirt. I am sure water would not have the same effect.


Water can be better than 'dry' for as long as there's enough of it but, as
you say, it don't last long! 15 hours cycling in rain showed me that the
chain would remain quiet whilst wet - then the rain stopped...
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
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Frank Erskine wrote:
On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant? The idea of a
lubricant is that it forms a coating on the working surfaces - a
'flushing agent' removes any coatings.

It may appear to lubricate short term, but that's just because it's
wetting the surfaces - water would probably be just as effective.


That could make the hinge rusty, so you could use WD40 as a penetrating oil
to free it off :-)


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.


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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 04:44:59 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Practical experience would suggest otherwise though. In non demanding
applications it lubricates well enough - e.g. a squeaking hinge will
stop squeaking for a couple of years, before it needs another quick
squirt.


Perzackerly if a proper lubricant had been used first time the door
would need replacing before the hinge started squeaking again.

--
Cheers
Dave.





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On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:55:22 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant?


It works for Boddingtons

Derek

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Derek Geldard wrote:
On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:55:22 +0100, Frank Erskine
wrote:

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100,
had this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant?


It works for Boddingtons


I'd rather drink WD40 :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


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John Rumm wrote:
Frank Erskine wrote:
On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:25:10 +0100, had
this to say:

The thing with WD40 is I agree its not designed for large components
and mainly we used it on small mechanisms and you used nearly half a
can mainly as flushing agent, but it does work as a lubricant.


How can a 'flushing agent' also act as a lubricant? The idea of a
lubricant is that it forms a coating on the working surfaces - a
'flushing agent' removes any coatings.

It may appear to lubricate short term, but that's just because it's
wetting the surfaces - water would probably be just as effective.


Practical experience would suggest otherwise though. In non demanding
applications it lubricates well enough - e.g. a squeaking hinge will
stop squeaking for a couple of years, before it needs another quick
squirt. I am sure water would not have the same effect.


The clutch pedal on my car squeaks when I lift my foot up. I took it to
the garage and they sprayed it with, you guessed, WD40. 9 months later,
it started to squeak again. Next week, I am going to take it back again
with the *lubricant* of my own choice. ** either mollypaul, or an
Aeroshell grease.

Dave
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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:23:41 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

TBH, I have not notice much difference between a squirt of WD40 and a
drop of 3 in 1 - both are obviously compromise products, but are going
to be a common choice around the home.


I've not had hinges that have been 3 in 1'd start squeaking again in
less than 18 months... At least 3 in 1 actually has some light oil in
it. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.



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