Thermal block fixings
 

I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

Thanks

CD

Thermal block fixings
 

CD coughed up some electrons that declared:

I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

Thanks

CD

BTDT...

Two options that work well IME:

1) Fischer frame fixings, specifically this type (other lengths available):

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21343/...5mm-Pack-of-10

You drill the hole exactly as Fischer specify with an HSS drill, NOT a
masonry drill. My tip here is to now smear the plastic bit with Araldite
and to insert the whole fixing flush into the wall. Smear screw with light
oil (to prevent Araldite from sticking) and do up. You may need to
countersink the plaster to allow the fixing to go flush.

When cured, take out screw and hang cupboards. As long as you don't exceed
about 15-20mm between the screw head and the plastic sleeve, these hold
very well due to the extra teeth. The Araldite is really only to stop the
sleeve spinning in the hole grinding it out, which is a problem I observed.

2) Buy some 6mm or 8mm stud and some Fischer Vinylester resin mortar

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80157/...er-Resin-145ml

Although it's more fiddly to set up (you need to hold the cupboard bracket
in place while the resin sets) it is *very* strong, even in crappy walls.

You'll have to trim the stud to length, or insert to the required depth - I
would recommend a nyloc nut or a touch of Loctite on the thread to prevent
it walking off over time.

There are some other new fangled fixings for these types of wall but I can't
vouch for them. Stay tuned...

After the Araldite is cured, remove

Thermal block fixings
 

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

CD coughed up some electrons that declared:

I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

Thanks

CD

BTDT...

Two options that work well IME:

1) Fischer frame fixings, specifically this type (other lengths
available):


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21343/...5mm-Pack-of-10

You drill the hole exactly as Fischer specify with an HSS drill, NOT a
masonry drill. My tip here is to now smear the plastic bit with Araldite
and to insert the whole fixing flush into the wall. Smear screw with light
oil (to prevent Araldite from sticking) and do up. You may need to
countersink the plaster to allow the fixing to go flush.

When cured, take out screw and hang cupboards. As long as you don't exceed
about 15-20mm between the screw head and the plastic sleeve, these hold
very well due to the extra teeth. The Araldite is really only to stop the
sleeve spinning in the hole grinding it out, which is a problem I
observed.

2) Buy some 6mm or 8mm stud and some Fischer Vinylester resin mortar


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80157/...er-Resin-145ml

Although it's more fiddly to set up (you need to hold the cupboard bracket
in place while the resin sets) it is *very* strong, even in crappy walls.

You'll have to trim the stud to length, or insert to the required depth -
I would recommend a nyloc nut or a touch of Loctite on the thread to
prevent it walking off over time.

There are some other new fangled fixings for these types of wall but I
can't vouch for them. Stay tuned...

Oops cut'n'paste error VVVV

After the Araldite is cured, remove

Thermal block fixings
 

In article ,
CD writes:
I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

I found instructions for drilling thermal blocks on one of the
manufacturers websites some time ago, and since following that,
I've never had any problem.

Most importantly, never use a masonary drill, and never use hammer
action. Neither of these is necessary and will wreck the area
around the hole.

Use something like an HSS metal drill bit, to ensure you have a
very clean cut parallel sided hole, with no damage to the
surrounding area. Then rawl plugs, rawl bolts, and similar work fine.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thermal block fixings
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:22:07 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:


I found instructions for drilling thermal blocks on one of the
manufacturers websites some time ago, and since following that,
I've never had any problem.

Most importantly, never use a masonary drill, and never use hammer
action. Neither of these is necessary and will wreck the area
around the hole.

Use something like an HSS metal drill bit, to ensure you have a
very clean cut parallel sided hole, with no damage to the
surrounding area. Then rawl plugs, rawl bolts, and similar work fine.

That's where I've been going wrong, HSS from now on & no hammer. A bit
obvious now when I think about it, you can almost push your finger in
these things.

CD

Thermal block fixings
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 15:20:07 +0100, Tim S wrote:


BTDT...

Two options that work well IME:

1) Fischer frame fixings, specifically this type (other lengths available):

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21343/...5mm-Pack-of-10

I'll be banging on the Screwfix door tomorrow morning.

Thanks.

Thermal block fixings
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:22:07 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
CD writes:
I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

I found instructions for drilling thermal blocks on one of the
manufacturers websites some time ago, and since following that,
I've never had any problem.

Most importantly, never use a masonary drill, and never use hammer
action. Neither of these is necessary and will wreck the area
around the hole.

Use something like an HSS metal drill bit, to ensure you have a
very clean cut parallel sided hole, with no damage to the
surrounding area. Then rawl plugs, rawl bolts, and similar work fine.

Would a Bosch Multipurpose Drill Bit be ideal for this?
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

Thermal block fixings
 

PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:22:07 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
CD writes:
I've had a google & looked at the FAQ but can't find a deal..
I am under orders to put up 3 wall units today, these will go on the
outside wall which is done in those lightweight blocks that aren't
breeze blocks.
Standard Rawplugs just spin in these due to the crumbly nature of
them.
I fear Rawbolts will just crumble the blocks when they expand.
Screwfix or B&Q are my only options.

I found instructions for drilling thermal blocks on one of the
manufacturers websites some time ago, and since following that,
I've never had any problem.

Most importantly, never use a masonary drill, and never use hammer
action. Neither of these is necessary and will wreck the area
around the hole.

Use something like an HSS metal drill bit, to ensure you have a
very clean cut parallel sided hole, with no damage to the
surrounding area. Then rawl plugs, rawl bolts, and similar work fine.

Would a Bosch Multipurpose Drill Bit be ideal for this?

It would - and it is.

Also worth mentioning that you need to get the plug deep into the block to
get a secure fix. Rawlplug Uno plugs are excellent for soft blocks.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk