Wife has treated herself to a little Toshiba netbook (NB200) and has
tasked yours truly with sorting out a wireless network, which is a
completely new area for me, and I'm stumped already.

Connecting the Tosh to our wired network is fine, so bought a D-Link
DAP-1160 wireless access point, thinking that the wiring goes from the
wall socket, to our Speedtouch router, then wired from one of the router
ports to the D-Link, and wirelessly from the D-Link to the Tosh.

Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB DVD
drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD), and using
the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-Link access point
from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting the error message
'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the wireless adaptor', but
what application?

Anyone successfully connected a Tosh netbook in similar circumstances?

Thanks!

(My own DVD audio problems are on hold until this is sorted!)
--
Graeme

Graeme wrote:

Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB DVD
drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD), and using
the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-Link access point
from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting the error message
'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the wireless adaptor', but
what application?

Look for Toshiba's wireless utility, find the Access point and do the
connect with that. I think you are using Microsoft's version of that,
which has been partially disabled due to the Tosh s/w being also installed.

Don't worry - this is, er, normal ...

--
Adrian C

In message , Adrian C
writes
Graeme wrote:
Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB
DVD drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD),
and using the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-Link
access point from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting the
error message 'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the
wireless adaptor', but what application?

Look for Toshiba's wireless utility, find the Access point and do the
connect with that. I think you are using Microsoft's version of that,
which has been partially disabled due to the Tosh s/w being also
installed.

The utility which gives the error message is ConfigFree, which I think
is Toshiba's software, which I assume is fighting with MS's software.
What I'm not sure about is how to disable either one, to let the other
do whatever is necessary.

Don't worry - this is, er, normal ...

So I gather, from Googling :-)
--
Graeme

Graeme wrote:

The utility which gives the error message is ConfigFree, which I think
is Toshiba's software, which I assume is fighting with MS's software.
What I'm not sure about is how to disable either one, to let the other
do whatever is necessary.

Don't worry - this is, er, normal ...

So I gather, from Googling :-)

OK, so Microsoft's software is in the chair ... Don't go about disabling
things.

In control panel, click the "Network Connections" icon.

Right click the icon relating to the wireless connection, and choose
"View Available Wireless Networks"

You should be OK from then on finding and connecting ...

--
Adrian C

In message , Adrian C
writes

Right click the icon relating to the wireless connection, and choose
"View Available Wireless Networks"

A long message which says :

"Windows cannot configure this wireless connection.

If you have enabled another program to manage this wireless connection,
use that software.

If you want Windows to configure this wireless connection, start the
Wireless Zero Configuration (WZC) service. For information about
starting the WZC service, see article 871122 in the MS knowledge base on
the microsoft.com web site."

The article says :

This behavior occurs for several reasons. Some computer and hardware
manufacturers provide their own configuration software that replaces the
Wireless Zero Configuration service that is provided in Windows. In that
case, you must use the software that is provided by the manufacturer to
configure your wireless network. If you want to use the Wireless Network
Setup Wizard or the View Available Wireless Networks feature to
configure your wireless device, see the documentation that came with
your computer or with your wireless network card. Use this documentation
to determine whether you can use the Wireless Zero Configuration service
to configure your wireless network. Sometimes, you cannot use the
Windows functionality.

You should be OK from then on finding and connecting ...

Hmm. :-)
--
Graeme

"Graeme" wrote in message
...

Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB DVD
drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD), and using
the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-Link access point
from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting the error message
'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the wireless adaptor', but
what application?

Anyone successfully connected a Tosh netbook in similar circumstances?

You made the error of installing the software off the cd.
Uninstall it and start again without making the error.
(You may need to use system restore to roll it back a bit.)

Windows can find the wireless network without any of the cr@p that comes on
the cds.

You will want to log into the AP and set security once it is working.


BTW are you sure its an access point?
most are routers.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Graeme" wrote in message
...

Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB DVD
drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD), and
using the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-Link
access point from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting the
error message 'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the
wireless adaptor', but what application?

Anyone successfully connected a Tosh netbook in similar circumstances?

You made the error of installing the software off the cd.

Yes, I did wonder about that. The D-Link thing came with a huge sticker
saying :

STOP! Insert CD First.

Uninstall it and start again without making the error.
(You may need to use system restore to roll it back a bit.)

The netbook is almost brand new, so I suppose I could set it back to
'brand new'.

Windows can find the wireless network without any of the cr@p that
comes on the cds.

You will want to log into the AP and set security once it is working.

BTW are you sure its an access point?
most are routers.

It is described as Wireless G Access Point, model DAP-1160, suitable for
use as an Access Point, AP Client, Bridge, Bridge with AP, Repeater,
WISP Client Router or WISP Repeater.
--
Graeme

Graeme wrote:

Yes, I did wonder about that. The D-Link thing came with a huge sticker
saying :

STOP! Insert CD First.

Uninstall it and start again without making the error.
(You may need to use system restore to roll it back a bit.)


The CD supplied with the access point would have had software intended
to configure the wireless point NOT anything to do with configuring your
wireless adaptor on your laptop.


The netbook is almost brand new, so I suppose I could set it back to
'brand new'.

Windows can find the wireless network without any of the cr@p that
comes on the cds.

This following is pure Dennis.


You will want to log into the AP and set security once it is working.

BTW are you sure its an access point?
most are routers.


It is described as Wireless G Access Point, model DAP-1160, suitable for
use as an Access Point, AP Client, Bridge, Bridge with AP, Repeater,
WISP Client Router or WISP Repeater.

Back to the laptop, forget ConfigFree for the moment. That looks merely
like some convienience software for swapping settings for different
locations and their available internet connections be they wireless or
cabled. It's not a wifi driver.

If you look in device manager from control panel. i.e.
http://aps2.toshiba-tro.de/kb0/HTD7201PO000SR01.htm

You'll find the make of the wireless network adaptor. Either Atheros or
Intel I think. The utility software that you want to select and make the
connection is the following.

Intel - Intel(R) PROSet for Wireless
Atheros - Wireless Lan Client Manager

Either should be found from the programs menu and could be the 'other'
driver that MS (and also ConfigFree) are complaining about.

--
Adrian C

"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
Graeme wrote:

Yes, I did wonder about that. The D-Link thing came with a huge sticker
saying :

STOP! Insert CD First.

Uninstall it and start again without making the error.
(You may need to use system restore to roll it back a bit.)


The CD supplied with the access point would have had software intended to
configure the wireless point NOT anything to do with configuring your
wireless adaptor on your laptop.


SSID, encryption, etc.

dennis@home wrote:


The CD supplied with the access point would have had software intended
to configure the wireless point NOT anything to do with configuring
your wireless adaptor on your laptop.


SSID, encryption, etc.


Really?


--
Adrian C

In message , Adrian C
writes

Intel - Intel(R) PROSet for Wireless
Atheros - Wireless Lan Client Manager

Either should be found from the programs menu and could be the 'other'
driver that MS (and also ConfigFree) are complaining about.

I think we're making progress. Found the Atheros settings under
Programs, and told it to let Windows take over. Windows confirms the
D-Link is connected, but is stuck, 'acquiring network address'. I start
work in ten minutes, so will try again later.
--
Graeme

Graeme wrote:
In message , Adrian C
writes

Intel - Intel(R) PROSet for Wireless
Atheros - Wireless Lan Client Manager

Either should be found from the programs menu and could be the 'other'
driver that MS (and also ConfigFree) are complaining about.

I think we're making progress. Found the Atheros settings under
Programs, and told it to let Windows take over. Windows confirms the
D-Link is connected, but is stuck, 'acquiring network address'. I start
work in ten minutes, so will try again later.

Ok, so you have recognised the link, but DHCP is not set up correctly.


That may in fact be something you need to configure on the WAP.

On Sep 4, 9:11*pm, Graeme wrote:
In message , "dennis@home"
writes



"Graeme" wrote in message
...

Anyone successfully connected a Tosh netbook in similar circumstances?

You made the error of installing the software off the cd.

Yes, I did wonder about that. *The D-Link thing came with a huge sticker saying :

STOP! *Insert CD First.

Ha, that was your first mistake ... !

Uninstall it and start again without making the error.
(You may need to use system restore to roll it back a bit.)

The netbook is almost brand new, so I suppose I could set it back to
'brand new'.

Windows can find the wireless network without any of the cr@p that comes on the cds.

That depends on the wireless card and if it has a standard chipset.
Anything from Netgear, D-Link or 3com should be ok, and recognised by
windows.

As has been said, de-install your card software (but not the drivers)
and windows should pick it up and use the Wireless Zero software.

Only default to the card makers software if windows can't drive it.

There's loads out there on the web for and against WZC.

e.g. http://www.smallbusinesscomputing.co...le.php/3577111

Cheers,

Paul.

On Fri, 4 Sep 2009 15:19:28 -0700 (PDT), zymurgy
wrote:

Windows can find the wireless network without any of the cr@p that comes on the cds.

That depends on the wireless card and if it has a standard chipset.
Anything from Netgear, D-Link or 3com should be ok, and recognised by
windows.

The chipset doesn't come into it. If it's transmitting the right kind
of wireless (and it will be) the computer will be able to pick it up.
The software provided on the computer will be fine.

Standard procedure with all this sort of gear is to ignore the
software provided. Connect to a computer with a network cable. Find
the address of the device from the manual. Typically it will be
192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 Type it into your web browser, in the
same way as you'd type a www. address. There may be a default logon
and password. Typically some combination of "admin", "user" and
"password". Again the manual will tell you.

Once you're into the device's control panel (which looks and acts just
like a web page) make any necessary settings. For an access point the
only changes you'll probably need to make from the defaults is to
choose a network name and set a password (so that neighbours and
passers-by can't access your connection).

Typically it will be
192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 Type it into your web browser, in the
same way as you'd type a www. address. There may be a default logon
and password. Typically some combination of "admin", "user" and
"password". Again the manual will tell you.

Correction - those are typical router addresses. An access point will
be different. Maybe 50 or 254 as the final number.

In uk.d-i-y, Graeme wrote:
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Graeme" wrote in message news:yqhs3YehyVo
...

Followed the setup instructions (which also involved buying a USB
DVD drive for the Tosh, to read the D-Link manual which is on CD),
and using the built in Tosh and D-Link software, I can see the D-
Link access point from the Tosh, but cannot connect. Keep getting
the error message 'Another Vendor's Application is controlling the
wireless adaptor', but what application?

Anyone successfully connected a Tosh netbook in similar circumstances?

You made the error of installing the software off the cd.

Yes, I did wonder about that. The D-Link thing came with a huge
sticker saying :

STOP! Insert CD First.

Yes, but presumably that wasn't in the laptop. Or was it? Normally you'd
install the D-Link software on a wired network PC. Then you'd use the
web browser on that PC to configure the WAP over the wired network. (You
don't need a crappy CD to do that, but that's another story). There's no
need to install any D-Link software on the laptop. Unless you use the
laptop to configure its own access point, which I suspect would be
confusing and inconvenient to say the least.

So:

Wired PC: install CD if you must, use your web browser to configure the
WAP (passwords, etc).

Laptop: don't install CD, use either Toshiba's software or Windows'
software, and whichever you get working first, stick with it. You should
be able to find Toshiba's software in the Start Menu, and when you start
that software you should see a check box "Allow Windows to manage this
connection" or similar. I'd check that box and see how I got on.

Lastly, take heart from the fact that this is all par for the course.

--
Mike Barnes

In message , Mike Barnes
writes

Lastly, take heart from the fact that this is all par for the course.

Not sure if I can help at all, but I just pop in to say that I'm the
owner of an earlier Toshiba NB100. Mine runs Ubuntu and I ran into a
whole heap of problems caused by my Linux inexperience with what to
answer to the questions that Ubuntu updates asked. A later version of
Ubuntu cured almost all of the mistakes I'd made, and I now really like
the little machine.

There are some Toshiba Europe forums for these machines eg

http://forums.computers.toshiba-euro...spa?forumID=94

which might give specific advice.

I certainly installed no software, just connected to my router. But the
wireless access point needs to be configured to pass through the dhcp
settings and DNS from the router transparently, and that's where you
need to have the software installed somewhere wired to set up the access
point.

I've done this using a second router as a WAP and it can be very
confusing.
--
Bill

In message , Mike Barnes
writes

Wired PC: install CD if you must, use your web browser to configure the
WAP (passwords, etc).

Mike, this is where I'm confused. Why do I need to bring a wired PC
into the equation? All I want to do is make the net book connect
wirelessly.

Lastly, take heart from the fact that this is all par for the course.

grin
--
Graeme

Graeme presented the following explanation :
Wife has treated herself to a little Toshiba netbook (NB200) and has tasked
yours truly with sorting out a wireless network, which is a completely new
area for me, and I'm stumped already.

Connecting the Tosh to our wired network is fine, so bought a D-Link DAP-1160
wireless access point, thinking that the wiring goes from the wall socket, to
our Speedtouch router, then wired from one of the router ports to the D-Link,
and wirelessly from the D-Link to the Tosh.

I cannot help wondering why you bought an add on WAP, when it would
have been no more expensive to simply replace Speedtouch with a
combined modem/ router with an included WAP. It would have made setting
it up so much simpler and the cost would have been similar.

I have a much more complex system here and for various reasons I have
everything on my network configured with fixed IP's rather than using
DHCP. That way I know where everything is, can connect directly to them
and can ping them to make sure they are on and get straight to router
configuration web pages to check/ alter their settings.

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...


It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's away
from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a WARP.

It makes no difference to the security of the LAN if you use static
addressing.
It falls into the same myth as MAC filtering "security".

dennis@home presented the following explanation :
It makes no difference to the security of the LAN if you use static
addressing.

From personal experience I can assure you it does add a level of
security.

It falls into the same myth as MAC filtering "security".

Again it does add some security, in as much as hackers need to find out
a MAC with access to get through filter and spoof it.

Each layer adds a little to the time and difficulty of gaining access
to a network.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...
dennis@home presented the following explanation :
It makes no difference to the security of the LAN if you use static
addressing.

From personal experience I can assure you it does add a level of security.

It falls into the same myth as MAC filtering "security".

Again it does add some security, in as much as hackers need to find out a
MAC with access to get through filter and spoof it.

Each layer adds a little to the time and difficulty of gaining access to a
network.

True, but adding a few seconds doesn't add much to security.
And it really does only add a few seconds.

It does make the whole process of setting up the network more difficult and
may lead to errors being made.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield writes:

I cannot help wondering why you bought an add on WAP, when it would
have been no more expensive to simply replace Speedtouch with a
combined modem/ router with an included WAP. It would have made setting
it up so much simpler and the cost would have been similar.

Yes. Actually, separate WAP's are harder to find nowadays.

I have a much more complex system here and for various reasons I have
everything on my network configured with fixed IP's rather than using
DHCP.

pedant
DHCP can supply fixed IP addresses. Indeed I have everything
here on fixed IP addresses, but they're dished out by DHCP so
I configure them all centrally.
/pedant

That way I know where everything is, can connect directly to them
and can ping them to make sure they are on and get straight to router
configuration web pages to check/ alter their settings.

and configure appropriate firewall rules for each device.

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.

My WAP isn't on my LAN -- it is separately firewalled off
from both LAN and WAN.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In uk.d-i-y, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
My WAP isn't on my LAN -- it is separately firewalled off
from both LAN and WAN.

One has to wonder what it can "access", in that case. :-)

My setup doesn't sound as highly segregated as yours but I think we both
have the same thought: Don't give wireless clients access to anything
they don't need access to.

My WAP is on its own LAN connected to the Internet via a NAT router[*].
My other PCs are on another LAN, which plugs into the first LAN through
a wired NAT router. So wireless clients can't access the wired PCs, only
the Internet.

Actually it's a bit more complicated than that, but never mind the
details. It's considerably better than the usual single-LAN setup.

[*] A combined router/WAP would be an obvious simplification but the
ADSL line comes in at the edge of the house (obviously) and the WAP
works best in the middle of the house (ditto).

--
Mike Barnes

on 05/09/2009, Mike Barnes supposed :
[*] A combined router/WAP would be an obvious simplification but the
ADSL line comes in at the edge of the house (obviously) and the WAP
works best in the middle of the house (ditto).

So do what I have done and move the phone socket to where it needs to
be.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In uk.d-i-y, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
on 05/09/2009, Mike Barnes supposed :
[*] A combined router/WAP would be an obvious simplification but the
ADSL line comes in at the edge of the house (obviously) and the WAP
works best in the middle of the house (ditto).

So do what I have done and move the phone socket to where it needs to
be.

That obviously suits your situation but it wouldn't suit mine, because
of the existing wiring.

In any event you get best performance by putting the "modem" as close to
the exchange as you can get it.

--
Mike Barnes

In article ,
Mike Barnes writes:
In uk.d-i-y, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
My WAP isn't on my LAN -- it is separately firewalled off
from both LAN and WAN.

One has to wonder what it can "access", in that case. :-)

I treat the WAP as untrusted, just like I treat the internet
as untrusted. When I had my first 802.11b WAP in 2000, it
was directly on the Internet (ISDN, later ADSL), outside my
firewall.

Until 2006 (when I started paying for the ADSL line myself),
I deliberately left the WAP wide open as all my American
colleagues do, to provide roaming internet access to passers-by,
although such usage was very small whenever I monitored it.

It's still pretty much the same setup, except I don't keep
it wide open anymore, and there's a bit of wirewalling there.
Access to my LAN from the WAP goes through same checks as
access to my LAN from the Internet.

My setup doesn't sound as highly segregated as yours but I think we both
have the same thought: Don't give wireless clients access to anything
they don't need access to.

My WAP is on its own LAN connected to the Internet via a NAT router[*].

I quickly discovered that visitors must only be allocated
NAT'ed IP addresses. Otherwise Skype, which most of the
Windows users have installed and running in the background,
discovers it's got a real IP address and becomes a supernode,
and quickly starts saturating my link with half the world's
skype calls.

My other PCs are on another LAN, which plugs into the first LAN through
a wired NAT router. So wireless clients can't access the wired PCs, only
the Internet.

Actually it's a bit more complicated than that, but never mind the
details. It's considerably better than the usual single-LAN setup.


[*] A combined router/WAP would be an obvious simplification but the
ADSL line comes in at the edge of the house (obviously) and the WAP
works best in the middle of the house (ditto).


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel submitted this idea :
pedant
DHCP can supply fixed IP addresses. Indeed I have everything
here on fixed IP addresses, but they're dished out by DHCP so
I configure them all centrally.
/pedant

Only if the router supports the function.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:30:54 UTC, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

I cannot help wondering why you bought an add on WAP, when it would
have been no more expensive to simply replace Speedtouch with a
combined modem/ router with an included WAP. It would have made setting
it up so much simpler and the cost would have been similar.

Not always the solution - and not necessarily simpler. I had no desire
to change my current router/modem, and in any case it's buried on a
shelf inside a steel rack. Not an ideal placement for a WAP. I put the
WAP high up on a shelf in the centre of the house, and plugged it into
the nearest convenient network socket (of which there are 27).

I have a much more complex system here and for various reasons I have
everything on my network configured with fixed IP's rather than using
DHCP. That way I know where everything is, can connect directly to them
and can ping them to make sure they are on and get straight to router
configuration web pages to check/ alter their settings.

So why not make management easier, and hand out the fixed addresses
using DHCP, locked to the MAC addresses? That's what I do...!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

In message , Harry
Bloomfield writes

I cannot help wondering why you bought an add on WAP, when it would
have been no more expensive to simply replace Speedtouch with a
combined modem/ router with an included WAP.

Because I didn't realise I could do that :-(

It would have made setting it up so much simpler and the cost would
have been similar.

It could hardly have been more difficult :-)

--
Graeme

In uk.d-i-y, Graeme wrote:
In message , Harry
Bloomfield writes

I cannot help wondering why you bought an add on WAP, when it would
have been no more expensive to simply replace Speedtouch with a
combined modem/ router with an included WAP.

Because I didn't realise I could do that :-(

It would have made setting it up so much simpler and the cost would
have been similar.

It could hardly have been more difficult :-)

Ah, but it's *educational*.

And there is a silver lining. You can keep your router where it should
be (near where the phone line comes into the house) and position your
WAP somewhere else that gives you better wireless performance. A
combined unit doesn't allow you to do that.

--
Mike Barnes

In message , Mike Barnes
writes
In uk.d-i-y, Graeme wrote:

It could hardly have been more difficult :-)

Ah, but it's *educational*.

Indeed. I read every post on the subject, and kept reading until I
understood (most of) it.

And there is a silver lining. You can keep your router where it should
be (near where the phone line comes into the house) and position your
WAP somewhere else that gives you better wireless performance. A
combined unit doesn't allow you to do that.

Agreed.

One final thought has occurred. I'm not sure how secure the wireless
part of the network is, and whether I'm allowing anyone who hacks the
wireless part, access to the wired part. The WAP is plugged into one of
the ports of the router.

I've accessed Shields Up from the net book, and it passed all tests,
except the Ping test, but that result is the same for any PC on this
network.

When setting up the WAP, I selected WPA2 security.
--
Graeme

In uk.d-i-y, Graeme wrote:
In message , Mike Barnes
writes
In uk.d-i-y, Graeme wrote:

It could hardly have been more difficult :-)

Ah, but it's *educational*.

Indeed. I read every post on the subject, and kept reading until I
understood (most of) it.

And there is a silver lining. You can keep your router where it should
be (near where the phone line comes into the house) and position your
WAP somewhere else that gives you better wireless performance. A
combined unit doesn't allow you to do that.

Agreed.

One final thought has occurred. I'm not sure how secure the wireless
part of the network is, and whether I'm allowing anyone who hacks the
wireless part, access to the wired part. The WAP is plugged into one
of the ports of the router.

I'm glad you said that. I was skimming the new postings to the thread
and I saw your EUREKA! and made a mental note to go back to that message
and follow it up with a reminder about security. Too many people sit
back with a sigh of relief when they get it working and don't risk
screwing it up by applying any security. It's refreshing to see that
you're not one of them.

I've accessed Shields Up from the net book, and it passed all tests,
except the Ping test, but that result is the same for any PC on this
network.

When setting up the WAP, I selected WPA2 security.

WPA2 is OK. Choose a long password. But accept that a sufficiently
determined attacker will be able to crack it, and I'm led to understand
that tools that make it easy for anyone to do that are freely available
on t'Internet if you know where to look. How far do you trust your
neighbours?

The two things they can do a access the internet (slowing things down
for you and adding to your bandwidth usage) and carry out various
nefarious activities, which, if they're traced to your ADSL connection,
you'll have to come up with an explanation for; and access the PCs on
your wired network.

If you don't share files or printers between the PCs on the wired
network you should disable sharing on all PCs. If you do share files or
printers, there might be something you can do with passwords, but I'm
the wrong person to ask about that. I side-step the problem by having
two routers and two LANs, one for wireless and one for wired. So the
wired LAN is protected from the WAP just like it's protected from the
Internet.

--
Mike Barnes

And there is a silver lining. You can keep your router where it should
be (near where the phone line comes into the house) and position your
WAP somewhere else that gives you better wireless performance. A
combined unit doesn't allow you to do that.



Also if your in a terraced house or flats bear in mind that everyone
could have a wireless point and interference can and does take place!..

Also from video senders microwave ovens and the like;!..

With regard to changing your IP addy on the PC sometimes this takes a
few minutes to get its act together. In a DOS prompt box type "ipconfig"
and that should show you what its set to.

You can have more than the one IP address per machine like we do here..

If all else fails ask a teenager to set it up for you..
--
Tony Sayer

On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:30:54 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.

Doesn't really make any difference. Anyone who can see the network at
all can also see the ip.

In uk.d-i-y, Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:30:54 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.

Doesn't really make any difference. Anyone who can see the network at
all can also see the ip.

Quite so. Non-obvious IP address, IP filtering, MAC filtering... ISTM
that those are the speed bumps of the wireless security world. They slow
people down a fraction but keep no-one out.

--
Mike Barnes

Mike Barnes wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:30:54 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.
Doesn't really make any difference. Anyone who can see the network at
all can also see the ip.

Quite so. Non-obvious IP address, IP filtering, MAC filtering... ISTM
that those are the speed bumps of the wireless security world. They slow
people down a fraction but keep no-one out.

MAC filtering will be quite hard to spoof.

But the real point is that there are DOZENS of WAPs around completely
open with almost no encryption advertising themselves.


My frind has three where he lives in suburban essex. I found four when I
set up an office network.

Here, I cant get a signal from my own unit in the house when sitting on
the garden.. Must be the metal lath the house is rendered over ;-(

In uk.d-i-y, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Mike Barnes wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:30:54 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

It is also no bad thing for your LAN's security, to change the IP's
away from their default settings anyway, especially so if you add a
WAP.
Doesn't really make any difference. Anyone who can see the network at
all can also see the ip.
Quite so. Non-obvious IP address, IP filtering, MAC filtering...
ISTM
that those are the speed bumps of the wireless security world. They slow
people down a fraction but keep no-one out.

MAC filtering will be quite hard to spoof.

That's not my impression. I just Googled up this video...

http://blogs.techrepublic.com.com/itdojo/?p=149

That's is from the days of WEP. I suspect that moving on to WPA doesn't
change anything that's said there - does anyone know?

In any event, put this sort of information on the web together with the
teenager next door and you'll see why securing your network is
important.

--
Mike Barnes

On Mon, 07 Sep 2009 09:41:16 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


MAC filtering will be quite hard to spoof.
MAC address filtering is trivial to bypass as is SSID hiding.

But the real point is that there are DOZENS of WAPs around completely
open with almost no encryption advertising themselves.
This tends to be true of older routers and access points that shipped
with "no security" as the default. Its increasingly common for routers to
be shipped with security settings enables - particularly those that are
supplied by ISPs

BW

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...


MAC filtering will be quite hard to spoof.

Capture a couple of frames, read MAC, go to windows properties, change the
MAC address, job done.
Even easier on linux.