Separating an exhaust.
 

I need to remove part of the exhaust on the old Rover to fit an oxygen
sensor boss. One end of the part disconnects easily - its a flange
coupling - but the other is the type where one pipe fits inside the other
to allow some adjustment for length. Which is then clamped. It's a SS
system and looks clean - so at least shouldn't be rusted up solid as steel
ones do. The car is on axle stands so access is a bit restricted.

I was wondering about grinding an SDS chisel blunt and seeing if the
hammer action works like an air chisel?

--
*I believe five out of four people have trouble with fractions. *

Dave Plowman London SW
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Separating an exhaust.
 

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to remove part of the exhaust on the old Rover to fit an oxygen
sensor boss. One end of the part disconnects easily - its a flange
coupling - but the other is the type where one pipe fits inside the other
to allow some adjustment for length. Which is then clamped. It's a SS
system and looks clean - so at least shouldn't be rusted up solid as steel
ones do. The car is on axle stands so access is a bit restricted.

I was wondering about grinding an SDS chisel blunt and seeing if the
hammer action works like an air chisel?

Get some graphite penetrating fluid in there the night before.
Loosen the clamp, remove flange end and try to apply rotation to that
end. Being SS I think it will move quite easily.
I feel that hitting it in whatever controlled way is likely to distort it.
Another way if that fails is to remove the clamp, run the engine to get
it nice an hot and then aim a hose at the joint. The shock might just
part it. Downside is that it will be hot and you wont be able to apply
any hand force on it.

Good Luck

Bob

Separating an exhaust.
 

On Wed, 12 Aug 2009 09:26:48 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I need to remove part of the exhaust on the old Rover to fit an oxygen
sensor boss. One end of the part disconnects easily - its a flange
coupling - but the other is the type where one pipe fits inside the other
to allow some adjustment for length. Which is then clamped. It's a SS
system and looks clean - so at least shouldn't be rusted up solid as steel
ones do. The car is on axle stands so access is a bit restricted.

I was wondering about grinding an SDS chisel blunt and seeing if the
hammer action works like an air chisel?

==========================================

If you have reasonable access try the hammer tapping technique. Use a
light hammer - e.g. a tack hammer. Tap *gently* all round the perimeter of
the outer pipe, covering as much of the inserted section as possible. Try
not to dent the pipe - just vibrate it. Keep some 'pull' on the pipe
during the tapping if your arms are long enough.

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

Separating an exhaust.
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I need to remove part of the exhaust on the old Rover to fit an oxygen
sensor boss. One end of the part disconnects easily - its a flange
coupling - but the other is the type where one pipe fits inside the
other to allow some adjustment for length. Which is then clamped.
It's a SS system and looks clean - so at least shouldn't be rusted up
solid as steel ones do. The car is on axle stands so access is a bit
restricted.

I was wondering about grinding an SDS chisel blunt and seeing if the
hammer action works like an air chisel?

I assume you want to part it non-destructively?

If it's stuck together, the best way of unsticking it is to rotate one part
relative to the other by a few degress, rather than trying to drift it
apart. You might be able to grip it to rotate it by using a strap wrench -
intended for unscrewing oil filters.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Separating an exhaust.
 

In article ,
Bob Minchin wrote:
Get some graphite penetrating fluid in there the night before. Loosen
the clamp, remove flange end and try to apply rotation to that end.
Being SS I think it will move quite easily. I feel that hitting it in
whatever controlled way is likely to distort it. Another way if that
fails is to remove the clamp, run the engine to get it nice an hot and
then aim a hose at the joint. The shock might just part it. Downside is
that it will be hot and you wont be able to apply any hand force on it.

Snag is I've already removed the front of the system including manifolds
for other reasons so running the engine isn't an option. I could try a hot
air gun, though.
I've given it a good soak in penetrating oil and will see how it goes. As
you rightly said It would be better to avoid hammers of any sort.

--
*The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Separating an exhaust.
 

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
I assume you want to part it non-destructively?

Very much so - it's SS and cost.

If it's stuck together, the best way of unsticking it is to rotate one
part relative to the other by a few degress, rather than trying to
drift it apart. You might be able to grip it to rotate it by using a
strap wrench - intended for unscrewing oil filters.

With the help of a neighbour and penetrating oil we got it to turn and
pulled off - without tools. Couldn't have done it myself in a million
years without damage.
The part of the pipe now exposed was like brand new - still shiny.

--
*Gargling is a good way to see if your throat leaks.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.