Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

My bathroom ceiling is wood cladding which has been stained then
polyurethane varnished. It's a fairly dark pine colour. I want to
lighten it and have some Bathroom quality emulsion for it. What would
be a suitable base for this, after a light sanding of course,bearing in
mind the colour change? Would ordinary primer/undercoat be suitable, or
what?

Regards and thanks in advance

Syke

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

"Syke" wrote in message
...
My bathroom ceiling is wood cladding which has been stained then
polyurethane varnished. It's a fairly dark pine colour. I want to
lighten it and have some Bathroom quality emulsion for it. What would
be a suitable base for this, after a light sanding of course,bearing in
mind the colour change? Would ordinary primer/undercoat be suitable, or
what?

Regards and thanks in advance

Syke


After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a lovely
light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht varnish looks
great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods grain. Well, I think
so, anyway. :-)

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

On Aug 11, 9:44*pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:


After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a lovely
light pine wood underneath the stain. *A clear coat of yacht varnish looks
great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods grain. *Well, I think
so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

Thanks
J^n

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 9:44 pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:


After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a
lovely light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht
varnish looks great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods
grain. Well, I think so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush if you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

"Clot" wrote in message
...
jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 9:44 pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:


After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a
lovely light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht
varnish looks great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods
grain. Well, I think so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush if
you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.


Yep. I'd go with that approach too, Clot. Try just the brush on it first,
to loosen and score the surface, before applying the nitromors. It might
just help in getting the stripper right into the coating, rather than it
struggling to break through a shiny skin.

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

"BigWallop" wrote in message
om...

"Clot" wrote in message
...
jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 9:44 pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:


After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a
lovely light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht
varnish looks great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods
grain. Well, I think so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush if
you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.


Yep. I'd go with that approach too, Clot. Try just the brush on it
first,
to loosen and score the surface, before applying the nitromors. It might
just help in getting the stripper right into the coating, rather than it
struggling to break through a shiny skin.

Also, which I forgot to add, you need fire retardant varnish on these type
ceilings. Especially in rooms with cooking appliances or where hot plates
etc. may be use. So make sure you're safe as well as refurbished.

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

On Aug 12, 2:19*am, "BigWallop"
wrote:
"BigWallop" wrote in message

om...



"Clot" wrote in message
...
jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 9:44 pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:

After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a
lovely light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht
varnish looks great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods
grain. Well, I think so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - *but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush if
you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.

Yep. *I'd go with that approach too, Clot. *Try just the brush on it
first,
to loosen and score the surface, before applying the nitromors. *It might
just help in getting the stripper right into the coating, rather than it
struggling to break through a shiny skin.

Also, which I forgot to add, you need fire retardant varnish on these type
ceilings. *Especially in rooms with cooking appliances or where hot plates
etc. may be use. *So make sure you're safe as well as refurbished.

Intumescent varnish. You can get a nice permanently light finish on
pine by painting and immediately wiping the paint off, then add your
varnish when dry. The result is whitish but you can still see the
grain.


NT

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

On Aug 11, 9:04*pm, Syke wrote:
My bathroom ceiling is wood cladding which has been stained then
polyurethane varnished. *It's a fairly dark pine colour. *I want to
lighten it and have some Bathroom quality emulsion for it. *What would
be a suitable base for this, after a light sanding of course,bearing in
mind the colour change? *Would ordinary primer/undercoat be suitable, or
what?

Regards and thanks in advance

Syke

To be honest, I would be tempted to clean it, maybe roughen a little
by hand with some medium grit paper, then paint it with a bathroom
emulsion and see what happens. Emulsion is pretty tenacious in my
experience. Having sanded a number of exposed ceiling joists myself, I
suggest that you might choose to avoid using any kind of sanding
machine overhead for a prolonged period, unless you have strong arms!
There's also the mess. Using Nitromors overhead sounds like a truly
horrible idea.

Regards
Richard

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

"NT" wrote in message
...
On Aug 12, 2:19 am, "BigWallop"
wrote:
"BigWallop" wrote in message

om...



"Clot" wrote in message
...
jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 9:44 pm, "BigWallop"
wrote:

After buffing the cladding with a sanding machine, you might find a
lovely light pine wood underneath the stain. A clear coat of yacht
varnish looks great on new light pine, as it brings out the woods
grain. Well, I think so, anyway. :-)

On a related note ... our kitchen/diner is lined with heavily
varnished pine T&G type material - and yes it looks like a sauna.
SWMBO quite likes it though, and it may hide a multitude of sins
underneath. I'd quite like to sand it down and refinish, something
like you suggest - but I wonder about the best way of getting at the
'valleys' between the boards. A wire brush in a drill? Nitromors? or
something else??

You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush
if
you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.

Yep. I'd go with that approach too, Clot. Try just the brush on it
first,
to loosen and score the surface, before applying the nitromors. It might
just help in getting the stripper right into the coating, rather than it
struggling to break through a shiny skin.

Also, which I forgot to add, you need fire retardant varnish on these type
ceilings. Especially in rooms with cooking appliances or where hot plates
etc. may be use. So make sure you're safe as well as refurbished.

Intumescent varnish. You can get a nice permanently light finish on
pine by painting and immediately wiping the paint off, then add your
varnish when dry. The result is whitish but you can still see the
grain.

NT


That sounds nice.

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

On Aug 11, 10:50*pm, "Clot" wrote:
[...]
You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush if you
can get hold of one if the valley requires it.

OK, ta. I won't look forwards to doing that on the ceiling ...


Cheers
J^n

Bathroom ceiling paint question
 

jkn wrote:
On Aug 11, 10:50 pm, "Clot" wrote:
[...]
You've said it: Nitromors and carefully "brushed out". A brass brush
if you can get hold of one if the valley requires it.

OK, ta. I won't look forwards to doing that on the ceiling ...

It isn't fun. I've spent years doing similar in awkward positions on wooden
boats.

Good luck.