As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.

Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be
appreciated.

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

Advice and anecdotes wanted

Noz

On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 14:07:26 +0100, Nozza
wrote:

As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.

Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be
appreciated.

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

Advice and anecdotes wanted

Noz

The cable on one side has got wrapped around the cone and trapped
under the next next bit of cable.

Nozza brought next idea :

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Tension wire snapped, or lifted out of its roller?

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

I bought one from a S****horpe company and installed it myself, to
replace an up and over type. It was made to measure and cost me around
£500 - electric and with 2x remote controls. I think I would have
rather tackled the install of the electric one than the up and over
type, it was much less fidley to align. I managed it alone, but it does
really need at least two maybe three to maneuver the door roll into
place. I was able to add a third manual set of button controls inside
the garage.

You fit two U shaped slides each side of the opening, fit the roller
including motor above the door, then lift the bottom end of the door
over the top and lower it down the slides. The motor is a tubular one
in the centre spindle of the roller.

The door slats are aluminium filled with insulation foam and the entire
thing seals pretty well, so it is much warmer /draft free than before.

To answer a question before it is asked...

If the power fails there is included a manual cranking handle to
operate the door, but the type supplied needs you to be able to get
inside to operate the crank. At extra cost you can get a crank system
which can be operated from outside the garage, if your only way in is
via the big front door. Not a problem for me because I have three
entrance doors into my garage.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...
Nozza brought next idea :

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Tension wire snapped, or lifted out of its roller?

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

I bought one from a S****horpe company and installed it myself, to replace
an up and over type. It was made to measure and cost me around £500 -
electric and with 2x remote controls. I think I would have rather tackled
the install of the electric one than the up and over type, it was much
less fidley to align. I managed it alone, but it does really need at least
two maybe three to maneuver the door roll into place. I was able to add a
third manual set of button controls inside the garage.

You fit two U shaped slides each side of the opening, fit the roller
including motor above the door, then lift the bottom end of the door over
the top and lower it down the slides. The motor is a tubular one in the
centre spindle of the roller.

The door slats are aluminium filled with insulation foam and the entire
thing seals pretty well, so it is much warmer /draft free than before.

To answer a question before it is asked...

If the power fails there is included a manual cranking handle to operate
the door, but the type supplied needs you to be able to get inside to
operate the crank. At extra cost you can get a crank system which can be
operated from outside the garage, if your only way in is via the big front
door. Not a problem for me because I have three entrance doors into my
garage.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk


I believe most doors fail due to people getting heavy handed with them -
because they are stiff - because they are not lubricated. Don't take them
for granted - get out your oil can. Mine - after 22 years can be moved with
one finger.

"Nozza" wrote in message
...
As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.


replacement 'cone and cable' sets are available, Henderson brand are what
I am familiar with.
Follow the supplied instructions otherwise it can be a severe nippy finger
job as I have discovered :0)

Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Cable broken. New cone/cable sets around 20-30 per pair. Replace both.

You could DIY, but your local specialist will probably supply and fit both
for around twice that. Worth it just to avoid big springy things! Don't
contact the big companies, they'll just try and sell you a new door for 500
quid.

Al.

"Nozza" wrote in message
...
As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.

Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be
appreciated.

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

Advice and anecdotes wanted

If the cable has snapped near the end, like mine did you can make
new loops at the ends by using the inside of an electrical chock-
block as a replacement ferrule.

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/infoweb/loop.jpg

You need to do both sides, just "lose" the same amount of cable on
the good side.

It wasn't difficult to do, I used a small vice to clamp the cable
where it emerged from the spring assembly. There's a lot of
potential energy there, face and eye protection wouldn't go
amiss.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

"Nozza" wrote in message
...
| As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
| out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
| from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
| returned it to the garage.
|
| Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
| 15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
| back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
| left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
| the "rolly bit" at the top.
|
| Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
| "an expert" tomorrow unless....
|
| Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.
|
| Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be
| appreciated.
|
| Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
| door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
| to get installed?
|
| Advice and anecdotes wanted
|
| Noz

Same happened to me last year, it came off the roller and because it got
kinked it needed replacing. Cost me £96 for both sides to be done, they had
special tools to do it with otherwise I'm sure you could lose a finger or
two! They also provided a 3 year guarantee.

"Scabbydug" wrote in message
...

"Nozza" wrote in message
...
As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.


replacement 'cone and cable' sets are available, Henderson brand are what
I am familiar with.
Follow the supplied instructions otherwise it can be a severe nippy
finger job as I have discovered :0)


Nippy finger! You're joking right. The potential energy stored in that big
spring at the top is huge, if the wire ends up flailing around powered by
that it won't be nippy fingers! Wear eye protection at the very least when
working on these things, preferably full face protection if you have it.

That said it's a cheap and easy job to replace the cones and wires so long
as you follow the instructions and do it safely. The kit I used came with a
pin to lock the spring while the wire was fitted and aside from a little
apprehension at first it was easy and done in less than an hour. Definitely
DIY.

On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer. I hope you are going to post something so
that we know you still have some usable arms!

I do recommend an electric motor to open them. You'll need another
door to get in in case there is a power cut.

Matty F wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer. I hope you are going to post something so
that we know you still have some usable arms!

I do recommend an electric motor to open them. You'll need another
door to get in in case there is a power cut.

Many years ago I motorised an old up and over door with a kit from
Wickes. The original door had runners and as soon as the motor pushed
the door to open it the door lurched down the runners very suddenly.

The remote control was poorly designed and difficult to hold without
setting off the door by accident.
The safety beams to make sure there was nobody in the way when the door
closed were additional extras available by post.

Inevitably one morning whilst putting my briefcase in the back of my car
I accidentally set the door in motion and ended up on the floor, stunned
and with a bleeding head. Lesson learned I thought until I realised the
agony I was suffering from my back on the M25 that evening was down to
this incident.

Some months and a medical report later Wickes insurers coughed up enough
for a rather good foreign holiday. On balance though I would rather have
not had the pain than had the holiday.

I do agree that spring counterbalanced garage doors should be approached
with considerable care. There is a LOT of tension waiting for something
to bite or hit.

"Invisible Man" wrote in message
...
Matty F wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer. I hope you are going to post something so
that we know you still have some usable arms!

I do recommend an electric motor to open them. You'll need another
door to get in in case there is a power cut.

Many years ago I motorised an old up and over door with a kit from Wickes.
The original door had runners and as soon as the motor pushed the door to
open it the door lurched down the runners very suddenly.

The remote control was poorly designed and difficult to hold without
setting off the door by accident.
The safety beams to make sure there was nobody in the way when the door
closed were additional extras available by post.

Inevitably one morning whilst putting my briefcase in the back of my car I
accidentally set the door in motion and ended up on the floor, stunned and
with a bleeding head. Lesson learned I thought until I realised the agony
I was suffering from my back on the M25 that evening was down to this
incident.

Some months and a medical report later Wickes insurers coughed up enough
for a rather good foreign holiday. On balance though I would rather have
not had the pain than had the holiday.

I do agree that spring counterbalanced garage doors should be approached
with considerable care. There is a LOT of tension waiting for something to
bite or hit.

My advice would be to NOT go for electric unless you have made sure your
door works really smoothly. Motorising a stiff sticking door is a bad idea.

On Mar 29, 4:03*pm, EricP wrote:
On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 14:07:26 +0100, Nozza



wrote:
As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower
out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look
from outside). Anyway, I *got the mower out, cut the grass and
returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call
"an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.

Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be
appreciated.

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new
door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors
to get installed?

Advice and anecdotes wanted

Noz

The cable on one side has got wrapped around the cone and trapped
under the next next bit of cable.

From the words "dangly" and "none" it's more likely it's snapped.

MBQ

On Mar 31, 9:21*am, Matty F wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer.

So how are you supposed to progress from being "average" if you're not
to tackle slightly "above average" jobs?

As has been said, it's a relatively easy and safe job if you use the
correct replacement parts, tools and follow the instructions.

MBQ

On Apr 1, 3:23 am, "Man at B&Q" wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:21 am, Matty F wrote:

On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer.

So how are you supposed to progress from being "average" if you're not
to tackle slightly "above average" jobs?

It's a matter of being aware of dangerous situations. I know of a lady
who unscrewed a bolt on her garage door and injured herself when the
spring unwound suddenly.

As has been said, it's a relatively easy and safe job if you use the
correct replacement parts, tools and follow the instructions.

What DIYers use the correct replacement parts or read the
instructions?

"Man at B&Q" wrote in message
...
On Mar 31, 9:21 am, Matty F wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:07 am, Nozza wrote:

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about
15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it
back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the
left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on
the "rolly bit" at the top.

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not
a job for the average DIYer.

So how are you supposed to progress from being "average" if you're not
to tackle slightly "above average" jobs?

As has been said, it's a relatively easy and safe job if you use the
correct replacement parts, tools and follow the instructions.

MBQ

As I said previously, having done it myself, it's scary but if you are
sensible and follow the rules it's perfectly safe.

I agree with MBQ, there are few jobs which I wouldn't tackle because they
scared me. Let's face it if a "professional" can do it then it can be done
safely. IMO don't do jobs which take lots of practice, expensive kit which
can't be hired or which you simply don't enjoy and can afford to have done
for you.