Hi

At some point I'll need to take a concentric room sealed boiler flue (and
maybe a soil stack vent) out through a flat lead roof.

To this end, I've decided to, for a 100mm exit:

1) Cut a 70mm hole in the lead;

2) Cut a 150mm hole in the wood (combustable material clearance gap of 25mm
all round)

3) Work the edge of the lead round the hole up to form a circular lip about
1-2cm high, and enlarging the hole to about 110mm - I've cold worked lead
before, so with some adjustments, I'm sure this is possible

4) Make a slightly conical lead tube about 100mm long, 120-130mm at the base
at 100mm at the top.

5) Sit tube over lip round hole in roof and put stainless steel flue pipe
through.

6) Use flue manufacturer's rubber vertical seal collar to seal between flue
and lead tube.

----

This seems to be a reasonable way to get an instrinsically rainproof seal.

Unless anyone can suggest a better method?

So, the actual question is:

Would one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...torch-set.html

be meaty enough for seam welding lead (for the tube) and either seam or tack
welding the tube onto the roof (that joint is naturally rainproof and I
don't want to wibble around too long burning holes in my perfectly good
roof - so tack welding might be safer - and perfectly sufficient.

I'd also considered soft soldering, but I reckon I'd need a rather lage
blowtorch to get the roof hot enough (and burning the wood), whereas with
lead burning, I'm hoping it works like welding, where a mentally hot small
flame does the work in a very localised fashion.

Of course, I'll practise first - but any pointers would be appreciated

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Hi

At some point I'll need to take a concentric room sealed boiler flue (and
maybe a soil stack vent) out through a flat lead roof.

To this end, I've decided to, for a 100mm exit:

1) Cut a 70mm hole in the lead;

2) Cut a 150mm hole in the wood (combustable material clearance gap of
25mm
all round)

3) Work the edge of the lead round the hole up to form a circular lip
about
1-2cm high, and enlarging the hole to about 110mm - I've cold worked lead
before, so with some adjustments, I'm sure this is possible

4) Make a slightly conical lead tube about 100mm long, 120-130mm at the
base
at 100mm at the top.

5) Sit tube over lip round hole in roof and put stainless steel flue pipe
through.

6) Use flue manufacturer's rubber vertical seal collar to seal between
flue
and lead tube.

----



Isn't this what you're after?
http://www.bhl.co.uk/product.php?productid=48449

mark

mark coughed up some electrons that declared:


Isn't this what you're after?
http://www.bhl.co.uk/product.php?productid=48449

mark

Perhaps - although I could use a 5 degree (or zero degree) version; the roof
has very little pitch.

However, this looks interesting:

http://www.bhl.co.uk/product/FLEXISL...MM_UNCUT_2040D

Still need to bond it to the roof. I'll give them a ring and see what they
say.

Thanks for that pointer.

Cheers

Tim

In message , Tim S
writes
Hi

At some point I'll need to take a concentric room sealed boiler flue (and
maybe a soil stack vent) out through a flat lead roof.


Would one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr.../gas-torches/r
othenberger-micro-fire-lead-gas-torch-set.html

I would have thought not - you need to get a lot of heat in very quickly

I've prolly got one that will do what you need

I have a friend who is a lead roofer who will be able to tell us exactly



--
geoff

geoff coughed up some electrons that declared:


I would have thought not - you need to get a lot of heat in very quickly

OK

I've prolly got one that will do what you need

I have a friend who is a lead roofer who will be able to tell us exactly


Look forward to it - ta.

I expect "others" might bond a lead slate on with some rubber scunge - but
welding seems better.

Cheers

Tim

In message , Tim S
writes
geoff coughed up some electrons that declared:


I would have thought not - you need to get a lot of heat in very quickly

OK

I've prolly got one that will do what you need

I have a friend who is a lead roofer who will be able to tell us exactly


Look forward to it - ta.

I expect "others" might bond a lead slate on with some rubber scunge - but
welding seems better.

I have one of these (with a mapp gas cylinder on)

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...gas-torches/ro
thenberger-quick-fire-gas-torch-piezo.html

or I have a hand held torch which attached to a gas cylinder (what the
big boys use)


--
geoff

Tim S wrote:

So, the actual question is:

Would one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...torch-set.html

be meaty enough for seam welding lead (for the tube) and either seam or tack
welding the tube onto the roof (that joint is naturally rainproof and I
don't want to wibble around too long burning holes in my perfectly good
roof - so tack welding might be safer - and perfectly sufficient.

Looks like the sort of thing used he

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DbamTXhA7c


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

Tim S wrote:
mark coughed up some electrons that declared:

Isn't this what you're after?
http://www.bhl.co.uk/product.php?productid=48449

mark

Perhaps - although I could use a 5 degree (or zero degree) version; the roof
has very little pitch.

I expect that is what this one is, although they have the wrong photo:

http://www.bhl.co.uk/product/4_STRAIGHT_LEAD_SLATE_

(they use the same photo for all the variations you will notice)

http://www.bhl.co.uk/home.php?cat=6567



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd also considered soft soldering, but I reckon I'd need a rather lage
blowtorch to get the roof hot enough (and burning the wood), whereas
with lead burning, I'm hoping it works like welding, where a mentally
hot small flame does the work in a very localised fashion.

I had a small split on one corner of a lead cover over some pipe ducting
which was easily accessible (being on a roof terrace) so decided to have a
go and got good results using ordinary elctronics leaded multicore and a
small 'jewellers' butane blowlamp. I practised on some scrap first. Lead
isn't that good a conductor of heat. But you'd need a still day for this
to work easily.

--
*Time is fun when you're having flies... Kermit

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd also considered soft soldering, but I reckon I'd need a rather lage
blowtorch to get the roof hot enough (and burning the wood), whereas
with lead burning, I'm hoping it works like welding, where a mentally
hot small flame does the work in a very localised fashion.

I had a small split on one corner of a lead cover over some pipe ducting
which was easily accessible (being on a roof terrace) so decided to have a
go and got good results using ordinary elctronics leaded multicore and a
small 'jewellers' butane blowlamp. I practised on some scrap first. Lead
isn't that good a conductor of heat. But you'd need a still day for this
to work easily.


Hi Dave

That's interesting... That would mean that soft soldering (aka the way lead
pipes were joined) would also work. For this application, I think a few
tacks of soft solder would be more than sufficient.

Now I'm going to walk to the plumber's merchant and ask for a stick of
plumber's metal, tallow and a moleskin just to see their reaction ;-




No, perhaps not, I'll look on t'internet as usual...

But you did give me an idea - soldering would be safer than lead burning
(less chance of unwanted holes in the roof).

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:

Now I'm going to walk to the plumber's merchant and ask for a stick of
plumber's metal, tallow and a moleskin just to see their reaction ;-


As this is uk.d-i-y ...

.... you have to catch your own mole. ;-)

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I had a small split on one corner of a lead cover over some pipe
ducting which was easily accessible (being on a roof terrace) so
decided to have a go and got good results using ordinary elctronics
leaded multicore and a small 'jewellers' butane blowlamp. I practised
on some scrap first. Lead isn't that good a conductor of heat. But
you'd need a still day for this to work easily.


Hi Dave

That's interesting... That would mean that soft soldering (aka the way
lead pipes were joined) would also work. For this application, I think a
few tacks of soft solder would be more than sufficient.

Now I'm going to walk to the plumber's merchant and ask for a stick of
plumber's metal, tallow and a moleskin just to see their reaction ;-

My local TP stocks all of these. But you don't need tallow or moleskin for
the sort of thing you're doing. They're needed to wipe a neat finish on a
joint.

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 09:29:23 +0000, Tim S wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I'd also considered soft soldering, but I reckon I'd need a rather lage
blowtorch to get the roof hot enough (and burning the wood), whereas
with lead burning, I'm hoping it works like welding, where a mentally
hot small flame does the work in a very localised fashion.

I had a small split on one corner of a lead cover over some pipe ducting
which was easily accessible (being on a roof terrace) so decided to have a
go and got good results using ordinary elctronics leaded multicore and a
small 'jewellers' butane blowlamp. I practised on some scrap first. Lead
isn't that good a conductor of heat. But you'd need a still day for this
to work easily.


Hi Dave

That's interesting... That would mean that soft soldering (aka the way lead
pipes were joined) would also work. For this application, I think a few
tacks of soft solder would be more than sufficient.

Now I'm going to walk to the plumber's merchant and ask for a stick of
plumber's metal, tallow and a moleskin just to see their reaction ;-


I used to do plumbed joints on lead sheathed cable when I first
started work (1960s) . Used a very large (2lb) copper hatchet style
soldering iron heated with a paraffin blowtorch. It's quite unwieldy
until you get the knack but easily handles jobs like that. Only ever
did a couple as we went over to joint boxes after that thankfully.




No, perhaps not, I'll look on t'internet as usual...

But you did give me an idea - soldering would be safer than lead burning
(less chance of unwanted holes in the roof).

Indeed it would.

I used to have a gas blowtorch with a soldering bit attachment that
would be ideal for joining sheet lead. Had a look on the internet but
there doesn't seem to be anything like it now.


Cheers

Tim