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50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs
lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge £100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? The flame on one burner was a little yellow, to I closed what I took to be an air inlet screw on the cast iron pipe leading to it - this improved it but even fully tightened the flame is still a little yellow. Would re- greasing the taps help this - and should I be in there at all? Thanks for advice. Peter |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On 22 Feb, 18:08, wrote:
The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge £100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? The flame on one burner was a little yellow, to I closed what I took to be an air inlet screw on the cast iron pipe leading to it - this improved it but even fully tightened the flame is still a little yellow. Would re- greasing the taps help this - and should I be in there at all? Thanks for advice. Peter Greasing gas taps is relatively simple, do not use excessive amounts of grease or you may clog the injector and bypass ports. As with all such jobs you really ought to have the facility to check the cock is closing of correctly and does not leak around the barrel on completion (a little leak detector spray might be a reassurance here) With respect to the yellow flame, a thorough clean out of the air inlet, burner mixing tube and the burner head may work wonders. Your screw adjustment needs a bit more clarification. Is it a screw which projects into the mixing tube? If so the effect of screwing it in is to create a resistance to the flow of gas and air from the injector jet to the burner and would tend to soften the flame by reducing the airflow. Less air, same amount of gas will tend to cause yellowing of the flame not reduce it. On an old burner scaling and corrosion may be causing a restriction within the casting. Try a stiff baby bottle brush or similar |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Feb 22, 6:30*pm, cynic wrote:
On 22 Feb, 18:08, wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge £100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? The flame on one burner was a little yellow, to I closed what I took to be an air inlet screw on the cast iron pipe leading to it - this improved it but even fully tightened the flame is still a little yellow. Would re- greasing the taps help this - and should I be in there at all? Thanks for advice. Peter Greasing gas taps is relatively simple, do not use excessive amounts of grease or you may clog the injector and bypass ports. As with all such jobs you really ought to have the facility to check the cock is closing of correctly and does not leak around the barrel on completion (a little leak detector spray might be a reassurance here) With respect to the yellow flame, a thorough clean out of the air inlet, burner mixing tube and the burner head may work wonders. Your screw adjustment needs a bit more clarification. Is it a screw which projects into the mixing tube? If so the effect of screwing it in is to create a resistance to the flow of gas and air from the injector jet to the burner and would tend to soften the flame by reducing the airflow. Less air, same amount of gas will tend to cause yellowing of the flame not reduce it. On an old burner scaling and corrosion may be causing a restriction within the casting. Try a stiff baby bottle brush or similar Thanks for all that. I will see if I can get hold of some gas cock grease and give it a go...What I described as 'adjusting screws' are located on the top of the mixing tubes, just behind the taps. I'd assumed they were to adjust the gas / air mix, but from what you are saying that is not really correct. I am wondering what their purpose is? I will start with a thorough clean as you suggest and go from there. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge �100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. NT |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge �100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. Age, of itself, doesn't make something dangerous, does it? OK - maybe some materials have deteriorated, some wear has occurred, it might not have all possible the safety features we expect, but if it has worked for 50 years without (we assume) killing anyone, is it really more likely to kill someone tomorrow than on the day it was first installed? If it is like the old New World cooker I had, the biggest issue I can think of is lack of any flame failure mechanism. But its extremely solid build was a plus. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Feb 22, 9:29*pm, Rod wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge 100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. Age, of itself, doesn't make something dangerous, does it? OK - maybe some materials have deteriorated, some wear has occurred, it might not have all possible the safety features we expect, but if it has worked for 50 years without (we assume) killing anyone, is it really more likely to kill someone tomorrow than on the day it was first installed? If it is like the old New World cooker I had, the biggest issue I can think of is lack of any flame failure mechanism. But its extremely solid build was a plus. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org Yes it's really well made. Is flame failure cut-out now standard? Never come across it.. My safety concerns are to do with the age of the thing, but although not an expert I don't usually think of age as bad (increasingly so!); just depends on the context. Call me old fashioned but mountains of recently manufactured stuff being dumped to be replaced ad infinitum doesn't seem to make sense... |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
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50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge ?100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. NT It might work with town gas if needed to. Adam |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
Rod wrote:
wrote: Yes it's really well made. Is flame failure cut-out now standard? Never come across it.. My safety concerns are to do with the age of the thing, but although not an expert I don't usually think of age as bad (increasingly so!); just depends on the context. Call me old fashioned but mountains of recently manufactured stuff being dumped to be replaced ad infinitum doesn't seem to make sense... Truth to tell, I just *assumed* that some such would be fitted to the oven and grill (but possibly not the rings) - after posting I suddenly realised that I don't know - hopefully someone who does know will now post. No, flame failure is rare on hobs. That's why 22mm pipe is used for gas nowadays, when a big boiler kicks in, it could suck up enough of the gas in a pipe, that a lit burner on a hob temporarily goes out as gas flow is reduced so much, the gas flow would resume fairly quickly, but it wouldnt be lit. Separate gas pipes to the cooker and boiler usually solve this, as well as the bigger bore pipes now required on boilers. Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:24:14 -0800, meow2222 wrote:
I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. Flame failure device, in the oven at least and increasingly nowadays on the burners too (mandatory in blocks of flats). Plus taps and regulators that are designed for higher pressure NG (aka North Sea gas) rather than ancient Town Gas. -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk You'll make some woman a fine husband, Dr Frankenstein |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:07:58 +0000, A.Lee wrote:
No, flame failure is rare on hobs. That's why 22mm pipe is used for gas nowadays, when a big boiler kicks in, it could suck up enough of the gas in a pipe, that a lit burner on a hob temporarily goes out as gas flow is reduced so much, the gas flow would resume fairly quickly, but it wouldnt be lit. Oh dear :-( The size of the pipe is related by simple arithmetic[1] to the gas consumption of the appliances served. For a combi boiler a certain amount of 22mm pipework is likely to be involved unless the boiler is less than a metre (effectively[2]) from the meter[3]. Separate gas pipes to the cooker and boiler usually solve this, as well as the bigger bore pipes now required on boilers. Who's been listening to Doctor D? FFS if you're going to go that route do it properly and run separate pipelines through the Ukraine back to Russia :-) [1] what us boring old farts called O-level: now known as a first class degree, apparently ;-) [2] where the effect of a sharp 90 degree bend is equivalent to half a metre of pipe [3] thank $DEITY for our rightpondian difference of spelling between the metric unit of length and a device for measuring -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge ?100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, Other than 50 years wear. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
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50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
YAPH wrote:
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:24:14 -0800, meow2222 wrote: I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. Flame failure device, in the oven at least and increasingly nowadays on the burners too (mandatory in blocks of flats). Plus taps and regulators that are designed for higher pressure NG (aka North Sea gas) rather than ancient Town Gas. Thanks for confirming what I thought about flame failure devices. However the taps and regulators must have been acceptable at NG pressures when the conversion was done. (Would the regulator have been changed at conversion time? If so, then it would even be designed for NG.) -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
wrote in message ... The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating Use graphite grease. Remove the barrel and clean with a light wire wool. Look inside tap housing and clean off any accumulated crud. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message om... wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge ?100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. It might work with town gas if needed to. By changing the injectors and burners and sometimes the burner tubes. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:07:58 +0000, A.Lee wrote: No, flame failure is rare on hobs. That's why 22mm pipe is used for gas nowadays, when a big boiler kicks in, it could suck up enough of the gas in a pipe, that a lit burner on a hob temporarily goes out as gas flow is reduced so much, the gas flow would resume fairly quickly, but it wouldnt be lit. Oh dear :-( The size of the pipe is related by simple arithmetic[1] to the gas consumption of the appliances served. For a combi boiler a certain amount of 22mm pipework is likely to be involved On many combis 28mm gas pipe is involved as well. unless the boiler is less than a metre (effectively[2]) from the meter[3]. Separate gas pipes to the cooker and boiler usually solve this, as well as the bigger bore pipes now required on boilers. Who's been listening to Doctor D? He is half right. He is right on having a separate gas supply to boiler from the meter. It is clear your experience of these matters is limited indeed. Listen to people who know more than you.....and learn and then do as they say. Then you will not have any come-backs. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:24:14 -0800, meow2222 wrote: I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. Flame failure device, in the oven at least and increasingly nowadays on the burners too (mandatory in blocks of flats). Plus taps and regulators that are designed for higher pressure NG (aka North Sea gas) rather than ancient Town Gas. Not an issue as it has been converted. The taps themselves were rarely and issue when converting appliances. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:07:58 +0000, A.Lee wrote: No, flame failure is rare on hobs. That's why 22mm pipe is used for gas nowadays, when a big boiler kicks in, it could suck up enough of the gas in a pipe, that a lit burner on a hob temporarily goes out as gas flow is reduced so much, the gas flow would resume fairly quickly, but it wouldnt be lit. Oh dear :-( The size of the pipe is related by simple arithmetic[1] to the gas consumption of the appliances served. For a combi boiler a certain amount of 22mm pipework is likely to be involved On many combis 28mm gas pipe is involved as well. unless the boiler is less than a metre (effectively[2]) from the meter[3]. Separate gas pipes to the cooker and boiler usually solve this, as well as the bigger bore pipes now required on boilers. Who's been listening to Doctor D? He is half right. He is right on having a separate gas supply to boiler from the meter. With many high gas consumption boilers being fitted, here can be a surge on the gas mains at peak times. Also, a meter regulator could be slow in reacting. A separate gas supply to a boiler can eliminate any small adverse effects of a sticking or poor quality meter regulator. Having a dedicated gas supply for the boiler can reduce or eliminate any effects. It is clear your experience of these matters is limited indeed. Listen to people who know more than you.....and learn and then do as they say. Then you will not have any come-backs. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
Rod wrote:
YAPH wrote: On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:24:14 -0800, meow2222 wrote: I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. Flame failure device, in the oven at least and increasingly nowadays on the burners too (mandatory in blocks of flats). Plus taps and regulators that are designed for higher pressure NG (aka North Sea gas) rather than ancient Town Gas. Thanks for confirming what I thought about flame failure devices. However the taps and regulators must have been acceptable at NG pressures when the conversion was done. (Would the regulator have been changed at conversion time? If so, then it would even be designed for NG.) Didnt know they'd have a reg built in. NT |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
wrote in message ... Rod wrote: YAPH wrote: On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:24:14 -0800, meow2222 wrote: I cant think of anything about a modern cooker that a 1950s one doesnt have, other than insulation in the oven cavity wall. Just as safe. Flame failure device, in the oven at least and increasingly nowadays on the burners too (mandatory in blocks of flats). Plus taps and regulators that are designed for higher pressure NG (aka North Sea gas) rather than ancient Town Gas. Thanks for confirming what I thought about flame failure devices. However the taps and regulators must have been acceptable at NG pressures when the conversion was done. (Would the regulator have been changed at conversion time? If so, then it would even be designed for NG.) Didnt know they'd have a reg built in. I think he means an appliance governor. The old town gas appliances had them. They were not required for natural gas as one was installed on the meter, which under town gas there was none. The old appliance governors were removed or a blanking plate installed in them. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
Rod wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge ?100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? 50+ years old? I'd get rid of the bloody thing as soon as possible, before it kills you. Age, of itself, doesn't make something dangerous, does it? Apart from pancake mix. http://www.snopes.com/medical/toxins/pancake.asp |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:14:53 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Not an issue as it has been converted. The taps themselves were rarely and issue when converting appliances. Nah, they simply left the old taps in place so you had to carefully manipulate these through about a quarter of their full travel to control burner flames under the higher pressure NG. -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk 87.5% of statistics are made up |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:20:55 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:
He is half right. He is right on having a separate gas supply to boiler from the meter. With many high gas consumption boilers being fitted, here can be a surge on the gas mains at peak times. Also, a meter regulator could be slow in reacting. A separate gas supply to a boiler can eliminate any small adverse effects of a sticking or poor quality meter regulator. Not if your separate feed from the meter still goes through the same regulator which is on the supply side of the meter. You'd need separate meters, each with its own regulator, to avoid that. -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus and Pop Psychologists are from Uranus |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:14:53 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote: Not an issue as it has been converted. The taps themselves were rarely and issue when converting appliances. Nah, they simply left the old taps in place so you had to carefully manipulate these through about a quarter of their full travel to control burner flames under the higher pressure NG. The new burner tubes, burners and adjustment catered for that. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:20:55 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote: He is half right. He is right on having a separate gas supply to boiler from the meter. With many high gas consumption boilers being fitted, here can be a surge on the gas mains at peak times. Also, a meter regulator could be slow in reacting. A separate gas supply to a boiler can eliminate any small adverse effects of a sticking or poor quality meter regulator. Not if your separate feed from the meter still goes through the same regulator which is on the supply side of the meter. You'd need separate meters, each with its own regulator, to avoid that. The separate pipe gives a small buffer of gas inside the supply pipe from the meter. If all on one pipe and the gas fire and cooker are on, and the boiler kicks in there is no buffer. That is enough to stop a glitch in a modern pre-mix burner. I have seen it when a boiler was switched in and the cooker burner nearly went out. Yet the calcs were all correct when running off one pipe. It is a case of divide and rule. "Always" have a dedicated boiler gas supply pipe. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:06:23 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:
The new burner tubes, burners and adjustment catered for that. Not on any of the converted appliances I had the pleasure of using, and it's hard to see how they could since it's the bore of the taps themselves that determines how much of the gas gets through. -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk Ohnosecond Instant in time when you realise that you've just made a BIG mistake. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:08:21 -0800, petermeakins wrote:
The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge £100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? The flame on one burner was a little yellow, to I closed what I took to be an air inlet screw on the cast iron pipe leading to it - this improved it but even fully tightened the flame is still a little yellow. Would re- greasing the taps help this - and should I be in there at all? Thanks for advice. Peter There is a New world cooker in a flat a couple of doors away. It is in better health than me and about the same age. I usually get to the do the Landlords' inspection. I am determined to keep this appliance in safe working order. Clearly the oven let alone any other burners don't have flame failure, therefore the cooker is "not to current standards"! (Frankly it's better than a notionally compliant brand new "B*ko" from C*met et sim.). A few years ago I did re-grease all the taps using a tiny amount of gas cock grease. More recently I repainted the numbers on the Regulo. I did remove the mini gas poker from the side a few years ago. Peizo or Piezo- gas lighters weren't widely available when it was made and there were a lot of ways that gadget could make trouble. If you have yellow tinged flames on any of the burners then you will need to eliminate the problem. Jet worn? Jet blocked? Mixing tube dirty inside? Aeration settings wrong? Holes in burner (especially over) partly blocked? Wrong gas pressure. If in doubt get an experienced pro. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 17:18:30 +0000, YAPH wrote:
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:06:23 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote: The new burner tubes, burners and adjustment catered for that. Not on any of the converted appliances I had the pleasure of using, and it's hard to see how they could since it's the bore of the taps themselves that determines how much of the gas gets through. At the full rate the limiting factor will definitely be the injector rathe than the tap. The difficulty comes trying to set a simmer rate. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 19:41:01 +0000, Ed Sirett wrote:
There is a New world cooker in a flat a couple of doors away. It is in better health than me and about the same age. I usually get to the do the Landlords' inspection. I am determined to keep this appliance in safe working order. Clearly the oven let alone any other burners don't have flame failure, therefore the cooker is "not to current standards"! (Frankly it's better than a notionally compliant brand new "B*ko" from C*met et sim.). I too have NCS-ed but otherwise passed an elderly cast-iron cooker for a friend. And all 3 of us are probably about the same age! -- John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk A: Because it messes up the order in which people read text. Q: Why is top-posting a bad thing? |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Feb 23, 7:41*pm, Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:08:21 -0800, petermeakins wrote: The New World seventy-six cooker I have needs the taps / knobs lubricating - I saw something on a previous post suggesting gss cock grease. Is this the stuff, and is it straightforward to dismantle and re-grease them? A gas engineer I spoke to muttered darkly about carbon monoxide and said any engineer would charge £100 to come out and then slap a condemned label on it to cover himself. I like the cooker but like life more - should I think of scrapping it for safety? The flame on one burner was a little yellow, to I closed what I took to be an air inlet screw on the cast iron pipe leading to it - this improved it but even fully tightened the flame is still a little yellow. Would re- greasing the taps help this - and should I be in there at all? Thanks for advice. Peter There is a New world cooker in a flat a couple of doors away. It is in better health than me and about the same age. *I usually get to the do the Landlords' inspection. I am determined to keep this appliance in safe working order. Clearly the oven let alone any other burners don't have flame failure, therefore the cooker is "not to current standards"! (Frankly it's better than a notionally compliant brand new "B*ko" from C*met et sim.). A few years ago I did re-grease all the taps using a tiny amount of gas cock grease. More recently I repainted the numbers on the Regulo. *I did remove the mini gas poker from the side a few years ago. Peizo or Piezo- gas lighters weren't widely available when it was made and there were a lot of ways that gadget could make trouble. If you have yellow tinged flames on any of the burners then you will need to eliminate the problem. Jet worn? Jet blocked? Mixing tube dirty inside? Aeration settings wrong? Holes in burner (especially over) partly blocked? *Wrong gas pressure. If in doubt get an experienced pro. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is athttp://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ *http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQhttp://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQhttp://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html Thanks Ed and John, Pleased to hear there are other cast iron geriactrics still lighting up out there! Advice was very useful - I will follow up and if in any trouble call someone who knows - or if you are anywhere near Brighton tommorrow please drop by for an unregulated pancake! Do you know if parts can be had for ancient cookers such as this? best, Peter |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
"YAPH" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:06:23 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote: The new burner tubes, burners and adjustment catered for that. Not on any of the converted appliances I had the pleasure of using, and it's hard to see how they could since it's the bore of the taps themselves that determines how much of the gas gets through. The injectors determined that. Where the taps were hopeless many of them were changed on conversion. |
50+ year-old gas cooker with stiff gas taps
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 14:52:05 -0800, petermeakins wrote:
Almost certainly not. However the only parts that can wear out are the Regulo, the injectors and gas cocks. The gas cocks are serviceable with care. The injectors should be replaceable but the only reason would be if the gas rate exceeded 105% of nominal. The Regulo would be game-over though. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
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