How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

How do they work - is there a crystal or a transformer to generate the
high voltage?
Taking the easy bits of the hob apart - removing the plate with the
taps, all I can see is the battery holder, the underside of the switch
which is ok, and the 'spark plug' by each of the four burners.
I've cleaned them and fitted a new battery, but it still doesn't work.
Is there something else, maybe below the burner that I need to loook
at?

Thanks

Tony

How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

"tonyjeffs" wrote in message
...
How do they work - is there a crystal or a transformer to generate the
high voltage?
Taking the easy bits of the hob apart - removing the plate with the
taps, all I can see is the battery holder, the underside of the switch
which is ok, and the 'spark plug' by each of the four burners.
I've cleaned them and fitted a new battery, but it still doesn't work.
Is there something else, maybe below the burner that I need to loook
at?

Thanks

Tony

Follow the leads back from the ignitors (spark plugs) thats the generator.
Check the input by removing the wires at the gen which come from the switch
and battery with a meter if possible, do you have a circuit? if so the
generators faulty. If not disconnect the switch and connect these 2 wire
together, do you have a circuit now? if so its the switch.

ive found when fixing these things duracell batteries will do the trick
where others wont work or quickly fail.

How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

"hg" wrote in message ...

"tonyjeffs" wrote in message
...
How do they work - is there a crystal or a transformer to generate the
high voltage?
Taking the easy bits of the hob apart - removing the plate with the
taps, all I can see is the battery holder, the underside of the switch
which is ok, and the 'spark plug' by each of the four burners.
I've cleaned them and fitted a new battery, but it still doesn't work.
Is there something else, maybe below the burner that I need to loook
at?

Thanks

Tony

Follow the leads back from the ignitors (spark plugs) thats the generator.
Check the input by removing the wires at the gen which come from the
switch and battery with a meter if possible, do you have a circuit? if so
the generators faulty. If not disconnect the switch and connect these 2
wire together, do you have a circuit now? if so its the switch.

ive found when fixing these things duracell batteries will do the trick
where others wont work or quickly fail.

Take care not to get a shock. On mine I have to be careful to ensure the hob
top is grounded to the base part - as I found when just lifting the top to
take a look.

How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

I cleaned it all, fitted a new battery And replaced switch with one
that works.
The + from the battery is connected to the switch - checked with
meter; no resistance. The other pole of the switch is neither live nor
earthed as if it it isn't connected to anything, although the wire
runs towards the ignitor.
The '-' from the battery connects to earth - all the metalwork of the
hop.
Nothing is happening at the ignitor.

could it be that all four ignitors are broken?

Thanks

Tony

How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

"tonyjeffs" wrote in message
...
I cleaned it all, fitted a new battery And replaced switch with one
that works.
The + from the battery is connected to the switch - checked with
meter; no resistance. The other pole of the switch is neither live nor
earthed as if it it isn't connected to anything, although the wire
runs towards the ignitor.
The '-' from the battery connects to earth - all the metalwork of the
hop.
Nothing is happening at the ignitor.

could it be that all four ignitors are broken?

Thanks

Tony

The other side of the switch must go live when the switch is operated - or
the switch is faulty. Try bypassing the switch

How to fix ignition spark on gas cooker hob
 

On 29 Jan, 22:46, "John" wrote:
"tonyjeffs" wrote in message

...

I cleaned it all, fitted a new battery *And replaced switch with one
that works.
The + from the battery is connected to the switch - checked with
meter; no resistance. The other pole of the switch is neither live nor
earthed as if it it isn't connected to anything, although the wire
runs towards the ignitor.
The '-' from the battery connects to earth - all the metalwork of the
hop.
Nothing is happening at the ignitor.

could it be that all four ignitors are broken?

Thanks

Tony

The other side of the switch must go live when the switch is operated - or
the switch is faulty. Try bypassing the switch

yes I was a bit vague there...- it does that ok when operated.