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Rob Nicholson[_2_] November 8th 08 08:04 PM

Radiator width dimension
 
When a radiator width is specified as 1600mm, what width is that defining?
The width of the actual radiator panel or is that with space either side for
the valves? Got a rather tight spot whereby 1600mm may be too wide.

Thanks, Rob.



BigWallop[_2_] November 8th 08 09:48 PM

Radiator width dimension
 

"Rob Nicholson" wrote in message
...
When a radiator width is specified as 1600mm, what width is that defining?
The width of the actual radiator panel or is that with space either side

for
the valves? Got a rather tight spot whereby 1600mm may be too wide.

Thanks, Rob.


Just the radiator. You need to allow four inches min' or six inches max' at
either side, to fit valves on a basic system. But there is nothing to say
you can't split this size into two or three separate radiators around the
room. I take it your system has been designed for the size and use of the
room, but there is nothing to say that the heat has to come from only one
position in the room. Two rads' in the room, half the size of the design
measurement, will give the correct heat output, but just from two different
points in the room.

Two radiators facing each other can be a good system to have in a long room.
The air from one rad' is lifting across the ceiling to meet the air coming
from the other radiator. The room stay nice and warm throughout. One
radiator at one end of the room, the air lifts to the ceiling and is cold by
the time it reaches the other end of the room.

Our large room was designed for an eight foot radiator, but we split that
into three X three foot radiators. One either side of the window and one
just at the door. Worked perfectly for the size of room.

Then we ripped it out and went for underfloor heating instead. That made a
huge difference. :-)




Rob Nicholson[_2_] November 9th 08 04:39 PM

Radiator width dimension
 
Just the radiator. You need to allow four inches min' or six inches max'
at
either side, to fit valves on a basic system. But there is nothing to say
you can't split this size into two or three separate radiators around the
room. I take it your system has been designed for the size and use of the
room, but there is nothing to say that the heat has to come from only one
position in the room. Two rads' in the room, half the size of the design
measurement, will give the correct heat output, but just from two
different
points in the room.


Thanks for this. Can get 1600 x 500 in there with 4" on either side. I was
worried by the existing thermostatic valves which stick out sideways but the
new ones I fitted upstairs are vertical and therefore 4" is fine. It's
constrained on one side by the cable box which *could* be moved if it all
goes wrong!

There is always another radiator in the room. It's a typical 2-up, 2-down
with extension on the back with dining room & lounge knocked together so
it's a big space to heat (inc. stairs to upstairs). I'm moving a huge
single-panel single-convector from behind sofa - never a good place and now
getting new leather sofa which definately shouldn't be against a radiator to
under the window so wanted to make sure I got the same plus 20% more (always
been chilly).

Cheers, Rob.



BigWallop[_2_] November 9th 08 04:52 PM

Radiator width dimension
 

"Rob Nicholson" wrote in message
...
Just the radiator. You need to allow four inches min' or six inches

max'
at
either side, to fit valves on a basic system. But there is nothing to

say
you can't split this size into two or three separate radiators around

the
room. I take it your system has been designed for the size and use of

the
room, but there is nothing to say that the heat has to come from only

one
position in the room. Two rads' in the room, half the size of the

design
measurement, will give the correct heat output, but just from two
different
points in the room.


Thanks for this. Can get 1600 x 500 in there with 4" on either side. I was
worried by the existing thermostatic valves which stick out sideways but

the
new ones I fitted upstairs are vertical and therefore 4" is fine. It's
constrained on one side by the cable box which *could* be moved if it all
goes wrong!

There is always another radiator in the room. It's a typical 2-up, 2-down
with extension on the back with dining room & lounge knocked together so
it's a big space to heat (inc. stairs to upstairs). I'm moving a huge
single-panel single-convector from behind sofa - never a good place and

now
getting new leather sofa which definately shouldn't be against a radiator

to
under the window so wanted to make sure I got the same plus 20% more

(always
been chilly).

Cheers, Rob.


If you can (and only if) get another small rad' under your staircase. It
helps keep the chill out of that area where the heat disappears upstairs.
Staircases always act like chimneys.

Where you're putting the radiator under the window. Fix a shelf above it.
The heat will go right to the glass if the top of the radiator is bare. A
shelf, just a little wider than the radiator, will help to throw the heat
away from the window and into the room. Closing curtains around the window
will also stop the heat from radiating around the room, so try to keep the
curtains away from the rad' if you can.

Do you think the coldest part of the room is the window area?




Rob Nicholson[_2_] November 9th 08 05:32 PM

Radiator width dimension
 
Where you're putting the radiator under the window. Fix a shelf above it.
The heat will go right to the glass if the top of the radiator is bare. A
shelf, just a little wider than the radiator, will help to throw the heat
away from the window and into the room. Closing curtains around the
window
will also stop the heat from radiating around the room, so try to keep the
curtains away from the rad' if you can.


I like the idea of a shelf - got plenty of wood down in the cellar. I could
position the radiator so the curtains tuck just behind the radiator (by a
couple of inches) but looking at the curtains now, I think that would
destroy the nice pleated drop (and you suggested it's a bad idea). Can't
totally overlook the asthetics :-) So the shelf over the top is a good idea
as it will deflect the heat rising from the back towards the front of the
curtains, not to the back and into the (non-double glazed) window.

Right now, don't need any heating! Just been manhandling the old sofa out
the back door into the pouring rain. New one arrives tomorrow. It's going to
be so neat when finished (and warm).

Cheers, Rob.




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