Hello,

Please can anyone tell me the rules about junction boxes?

I could not find anything in the "old" FAQ and the wiki FAQ's rewiring
pages reports an error.

Can you use a junction box if the last bit of cable on your reel is
not long enough or should the cable be continuous? Should I save the
piece that is too short for another job and start the new reel
straight away?

Is it permissible to use junction boxes where you break into the
existing ring to add or remove sockets to/from the ring main? Or again
should you run continuous cable from socket to socket?

I used google but could only find a US FAQ that says: "Junction boxes
must be located in such a way that they're accessible later. Ie: not
buried under plaster." Is it acceptable to use them under floor boards
provided they are secured to a joist with at least 50mm from top and
bottom of the joist? Ort is under the floor considered inaccessible?
How accessible is accessible?

Thanks,
Stephen.
(still waiting for the on site guide to the 17th..., but could not
find anything in the 16th when I looked)

In article ,
Stephen wrote:
Please can anyone tell me the rules about junction boxes?

I could not find anything in the "old" FAQ and the wiki FAQ's rewiring
pages reports an error.

Can you use a junction box if the last bit of cable on your reel is
not long enough or should the cable be continuous? Should I save the
piece that is too short for another job and start the new reel
straight away?

I'd keep unnecessary connections to a minimum. Good practice on anything.

Is it permissible to use junction boxes where you break into the
existing ring to add or remove sockets to/from the ring main? Or again
should you run continuous cable from socket to socket?

Same as above. But if breaking into an existing ring if might be the only
practical way. With care you can use a junction box with not actually
breaking the original ring if adding a spur - just removing insulation
where needed.

I used google but could only find a US FAQ that says: "Junction boxes
must be located in such a way that they're accessible later. Ie: not
buried under plaster." Is it acceptable to use them under floor boards
provided they are secured to a joist with at least 50mm from top and
bottom of the joist? Ort is under the floor considered inaccessible?
How accessible is accessible?

Under floor broads is fine.

Thanks,
Stephen.
(still waiting for the on site guide to the 17th..., but could not
find anything in the 16th when I looked)

--
*Lottery: A tax on people who are bad at math.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

floor broads

Extremely easy women?

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Is it permissible to use junction boxes where you break into the
existing ring to add or remove sockets to/from the ring main? Or again
should you run continuous cable from socket to socket?

Same as above. But if breaking into an existing ring if might be the only
practical way. With care you can use a junction box with not actually
breaking the original ring if adding a spur - just removing insulation
where needed.

I agree with this(and do it) but it does raise one issue/problem, if
you don't break the CPC how can you put the mandatory sleeving on it?

--
Chris Green

On 10 Sep 2008 11:45:35 GMT, wrote:

I agree with this(and do it) but it does raise one issue/problem, if
you don't break the CPC how can you put the mandatory sleeving on it?

Fold it back on itself and have the the ring cables entering the box
through the same hole?

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Under floor boards [typo corrected, ed.] is fine.

It isn't actually - or at least it's now a strongly deprecated practice
in some quarters. All joints made using screw terminals should be
accessible for inspection and, with the popularity of wooden floor
finishes that can only be lifted destructively, organisations like
NICEIC etc. won't allow their members to use traditional JBs under
floors unless there's easy access from underneath.

To the OP: If you're altering a socket circuit and can't avoid a joint
then it's better to use crimping - see the FAQ
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping (crimped
connections housed in a ChocBox is another possibility). Putting in an
otherwise unnecessary joint just to use up the end of a reel of cable
would be looked on as very poor practice.

--
Andy

It isn't actually - or at least it's now a strongly deprecated
practice in some quarters. All joints made using screw terminals
should be accessible for inspection and, with the popularity of
wooden floor finishes that can only be lifted destructively,
organisations like NICEIC etc. won't allow their members to use
traditional JBs under floors unless there's easy access from
underneath.

Is there any kind of *unconventional* JB which is acceptable (or less
unacceptable) in such locations please? I ask as I have a JB under
floorboards in a bedroom where cabling for 2-way light switches wd have
been difficult (for me) without it - and I thought at the time that they
were still perfectly OK. (The pain was that the only nearby light
fitting has the cable through a joist so I couldn't use a JB which goes
through the hole for a dry-lining box and so be accessible from below.)

--
Robin

Is there any kind of *unconventional* JB which is acceptable (or less
unacceptable) in such locations please?

I know it's bad from to reply to my own but has anyone experience of the
"maintenance free" JBs from Ashley (see eg
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html)? I'd need to use 2 in
place of a traditional 6-terminal JB but they look a possible solution
(without my having to learn how to solder 3+ cables to IEE standards).

Failing that, what's the IEE/NICEIC line on a traditional JB which has
its terminals tightened by a gorilla and is then filled with epoxy
resin?
--
Robin

On Sep 10, 1:17*pm, Andy Wade wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Under floor boards [typo corrected, ed.] is fine.

It isn't actually - or at least it's now a strongly deprecated practice
in some quarters. *All joints made using screw terminals should be
accessible for inspection and, with the popularity of wooden floor
finishes that can only be lifted destructively, organisations like
NICEIC etc. won't allow their members to use traditional JBs under
floors unless there's easy access from underneath.

To the OP: If you're altering a socket circuit and can't avoid a joint
then it's better to use crimping - see the FAQhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Cable_crimping(crimped
connections housed in a ChocBox is another possibility). *Putting in an
otherwise unnecessary joint just to use up the end of a reel of cable
would be looked on as very poor practice.

Although chocboxes are getting used I dont think theyre compliant, as
they're thermoplastic. Wiring junctions need to be in... I forget the
exact phrase, but basically some type of fire retarding box.

If the joint needs to be buried, it can be soldered or crimped.
Screwed. can become screwed in time, so access is needed for them.


NT

Andy Wade wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Under floor boards [typo corrected, ed.] is fine.

It isn't actually - or at least it's now a strongly deprecated practice
in some quarters. All joints made using screw terminals should be
accessible for inspection

To the OP: If you're altering a socket circuit and can't avoid a joint
then it's better to use crimping

I had to pull up the electrician doing my kitchen wiring. At the
time he was linking out a redundant drop in the existing ring
circuit, working from below the upstairs floorboards, most of the
ceiling already having been pulled down (in preparation for
re-boarding & skimming).

I spotted that he had installed a JB, and pointed out that the
boards had not been lifted, and in any case, there was no way of
reaching that particular point from above. He changed it for a
crimped joint, but I shouldn't have had to intervene.

Similarly, if I had been picky, I could have jibbed at having
myself to re-identify the circuit changes made at the consumer
unit.

The guy was generally both capable and flexible, but it alarmed
me that I seemed more aware of some significant points than he
was.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

In article ,
Chris J Dixon wrote:
I had to pull up the electrician doing my kitchen wiring. At the
time he was linking out a redundant drop in the existing ring
circuit, working from below the upstairs floorboards, most of the
ceiling already having been pulled down (in preparation for
re-boarding & skimming).

I spotted that he had installed a JB, and pointed out that the
boards had not been lifted, and in any case, there was no way of
reaching that particular point from above. He changed it for a
crimped joint, but I shouldn't have had to intervene.

To be perfectly honest I think this distinction between JB and crimps was
invented by some office wallah. If a JB connection is properly made it
won't come loose - so the need for inspection is no greater than any other.
Indeed, if a 'sparks' is incapable of tightening a screw terminal
properly, is he capable of making a decent crimp?

--
*OK, so what's the speed of dark? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 15 Sep, 11:04, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Indeed, if a 'sparks' is incapable of tightening a screw terminal
properly, is he capable of making a decent crimp?

How does one tighten a screw terminal properly? It's a genuine
question, as I've seen variations in technique from the 'finger tight
+ 1/8 th of a turn' to 'apply as much torque as humanly possible
without shearing off the screw head, in combination with the phrase,
"There, that'll fix the bugger."'?

If there is a BS applying to screw tightening, so much the better. Any
reference?

Cheers,

Sid.