Opening a drain tap to fit new washer
Hi,
I opened the central, square-headedscrww on a central heating drain tap to drain the CH (surprise !) Flow was a bit reluctant at first and the movement of the screw a bit "rough". I sprayed a little WD40 around the screw and it moved a lot easier. After draining I tightened up the central screw but there is a slow but steady drip from the drain pipe. I have obtained a replacement washer and have seen on another drain tap that the whole of the central part itself unscrews. Now the part that unscrews from the body has a small "rim" that is milled. I have tried to unscrew this with a pair of "electricians" pliers but this just slipped (looking for some more meaty, bull-nosed pliers). Is there a "knack" for loosening this central part of the drain tap without 1) stripping the milled edge making it difficult to tighten when re-fixing, 2) applying so much torque that the soldered joint between the tap and the pipe gets torn apart. I don't want to risk damaging the drain pipe and have to replace the tap - the pipe on which the drain tap is fixed projects only a small way through the wall. It would be fiddly to replace a damaged drain tap on a damaged pipe Thanks for any tips. Clive |
Opening a drain tap to fit new washer
"Clive" wrote in message ... Hi, I opened the central, square-headedscrww on a central heating drain tap to drain the CH (surprise !) Flow was a bit reluctant at first and the movement of the screw a bit "rough". I sprayed a little WD40 around the screw and it moved a lot easier. After draining I tightened up the central screw but there is a slow but steady drip from the drain pipe. I have obtained a replacement washer and have seen on another drain tap that the whole of the central part itself unscrews. Now the part that unscrews from the body has a small "rim" that is milled. I have tried to unscrew this with a pair of "electricians" pliers but this just slipped (looking for some more meaty, bull-nosed pliers). Is there a "knack" for loosening this central part of the drain tap without 1) stripping the milled edge making it difficult to tighten when re-fixing, 2) applying so much torque that the soldered joint between the tap and the pipe gets torn apart. I don't want to risk damaging the drain pipe and have to replace the tap - the pipe on which the drain tap is fixed projects only a small way through the wall. It would be fiddly to replace a damaged drain tap on a damaged pipe Thanks for any tips. Clive Just an observation - make sure no bits of old washer are stuck to the seating when you eventually remove the valve head. You did well to find replacement washers - when I tried (plumbers merchant) I came away with some new valves - of the type you have. |
Opening a drain tap to fit new washer
On 27 Aug, 17:23, "John" wrote:
Just an observation - make sure no bits of old washer are stuck to the seating when you eventually remove the valve head. Will do You did well to find replacement washers - when I tried (plumbers merchant) I came away with some new valves - of the type you have. As I had just spent north of £650 with him I felt it was the least he could do 8-) Clive |
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