I would very much like your opinions please, about a product called
Silirub HT N, a high-temperature resistant silicone sealant, and also
to know if in principle it would be suitable for the following
application. The product is sold by AB Sealants and is described at
http://www.absealants.co.uk/category...t-Silicone.htm
I have had 10 swivelling halogen spotlights fitted in the kitchen
ceiling of my bungalow. Unfortunately, this has created significant
airways to and from my loft above. As I never use the swivel function
(the lamps are always in the “straight ahead” position) I would like
to seal the 3mm gap between the lamp-holder and the unit, to stop
draughts and heat loss into the loft.
The 50w 12v halogen spotlight bulbs generate a good deal of heat, so I
am looking for a silicone sealant which will withstand it. There is
plenty of ventilation into the loft from the back of the unit to allow
for heat dissipation.
I have approached the lamp manufacturer who can see no problem with my
proposal, apart from possible invalidation of the guarantee, which has
expired anyway. But what do you learned guys think?

Thank you

Bruce

"Bruce Hall" wrote in message
...
I would very much like your opinions please, about a product called
Silirub HT N, a high-temperature resistant silicone sealant, and also
to know if in principle it would be suitable for the following
application. The product is sold by AB Sealants and is described at
http://www.absealants.co.uk/category...t-Silicone.htm
I have had 10 swivelling halogen spotlights fitted in the kitchen
ceiling of my bungalow. Unfortunately, this has created significant
airways to and from my loft above. As I never use the swivel function
(the lamps are always in the “straight ahead” position) I would like
to seal the 3mm gap between the lamp-holder and the unit, to stop
draughts and heat loss into the loft.
The 50w 12v halogen spotlight bulbs generate a good deal of heat, so I
am looking for a silicone sealant which will withstand it. There is
plenty of ventilation into the loft from the back of the unit to allow
for heat dissipation.
I have approached the lamp manufacturer who can see no problem with my
proposal, apart from possible invalidation of the guarantee, which has
expired anyway. But what do you learned guys think?

Thank you

Bruce

I noticed they were selling silicone rubber bendy spatulas and glazing
brushes, for use in frying pans etc, in Tesco the other day. Seem to recall
they were being rated to about 240C, which I thought pretty impressive if
true. Wasn't fooled into buying though. I'm holding out for a stainless
steel glazing brush, if there is such a thing.

S

Spamlet wrote:

I noticed they were selling silicone rubber bendy spatulas and glazing
brushes, for use in frying pans etc, in Tesco the other day. Seem to recall
they were being rated to about 240C, which I thought pretty impressive if
true. Wasn't fooled into buying though. I'm holding out for a stainless
steel glazing brush, if there is such a thing.

How about the best of both - a stainless steel one with silicone bristles?

http://www.shinyshack.com/product.ph...ry-Brush---Red

--
Grunff

Bruce Hall wrote:

I have approached the lamp manufacturer who can see no problem with my
proposal, apart from possible invalidation of the guarantee, which has
expired anyway. But what do you learned guys think?

Bruce, even standard RTV silicone is good for 250C, so it will be
absolutely fine in this application.

The only thing I'd mention is that unless you leave the silicone to cure
a long time (like a couple of weeks), you are likely to get some fumes
when you first fire up. You can minimise this by using the thinnest bead
you can, and leaving for as long as possible before switching on (at
least 48 hours).


--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Spamlet wrote:

I noticed they were selling silicone rubber bendy spatulas and glazing
brushes, for use in frying pans etc, in Tesco the other day. Seem to
recall they were being rated to about 240C, which I thought pretty
impressive if true. Wasn't fooled into buying though. I'm holding out
for a stainless steel glazing brush, if there is such a thing.

How about the best of both - a stainless steel one with silicone bristles?

http://www.shinyshack.com/product.ph...ry-Brush---Red

--
Grunff

Ah, that looks better than the Tesco one, which was one of those silly
things with a hollow 'stainless' handle that fills up with rusty water in
double quick time. The silicone was very floppy too.

What I want is a wooden one with stainless bristles (so as for example, I
can treat my boots with melted wax without melting/burning the bristles
too... amongst other things.

Cheers for the tip anyway.

S

Bruce Hall wrote:
I would very much like your opinions please, about a product called
Silirub HT N, a high-temperature resistant silicone sealant, and also
to know if in principle it would be suitable for the following
application. The product is sold by AB Sealants and is described at
http://www.absealants.co.uk/category...t-Silicone.htm
I have had 10 swivelling halogen spotlights fitted in the kitchen
ceiling of my bungalow. Unfortunately, this has created significant
airways to and from my loft above. As I never use the swivel function
(the lamps are always in the “straight ahead” position) I would like
to seal the 3mm gap between the lamp-holder and the unit, to stop
draughts and heat loss into the loft.
The 50w 12v halogen spotlight bulbs generate a good deal of heat, so I
am looking for a silicone sealant which will withstand it. There is
plenty of ventilation into the loft from the back of the unit to allow
for heat dissipation.
I have approached the lamp manufacturer who can see no problem with my
proposal, apart from possible invalidation of the guarantee, which has
expired anyway. But what do you learned guys think?

Thank you

Bruce

Rather than seal them as you suggest, why not fit fire hoods above each
fitting.
The hood would then provide the draught-proofing.
It would also have the added benefit of doing what it was intended to
do. I.e preventing your loft catching fire! :-)

A

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Spamlet"
saying something like:

What I want is a wooden one with stainless bristles (so as for example, I
can treat my boots with melted wax without melting/burning the bristles
too... amongst other things.

Would a brass-bristle brush not do for that?
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

On Aug 22, 8:50*am, Andy Dee wrote:
Bruce Hall wrote:
I would very much like your opinions please, about a product called
Silirub HT N, a high-temperature resistant *silicone sealant, and also
to know if in principle it would be suitable for the following
application. The product is sold by AB Sealants and is described at
http://www.absealants.co.uk/category...re-Resistant-S...
I have had 10 swivelling halogen spotlights fitted in the kitchen
ceiling of my bungalow. Unfortunately, this has created significant
airways to and from my loft above. As I never use the swivel function
(the lamps are always in the “straight ahead” position) I would like
to seal the 3mm gap between the lamp-holder and the unit, to stop
draughts and heat loss into the loft.
The 50w 12v halogen spotlight bulbs generate a good deal of heat, so I
am looking for a silicone sealant which will withstand it. There is
plenty of ventilation into the loft from the back of the unit to allow
for heat dissipation.
I have approached the lamp manufacturer who can see no problem with my
proposal, apart from possible invalidation of the guarantee, which has
expired anyway. *But what do you learned guys think?

Thank you

Bruce

Rather than seal them as you suggest, why not fit fire hoods above each
fitting.
The hood would then provide the draught-proofing.
It would also have the added benefit of doing what it was intended to
do. I.e preventing your loft catching fire! :-)

A

Andy,

Thanks for your suggestion. I'm a bit strapped for cash at the moment
and this seemed to be a cost-effective solution to stop the draught
and heat-loss for a tenner (the cost of a tube of silicone). One thing
I'd like to ask is whether there is adequate ventilation inside the
fire cap, bearing in mind that most of the heat is given off at the
back (loft-side) rather than at the front. If the caps are vented,
then the draught/heat-loss problem remains, doesn't it?

Are you able to recommend a particular make? I looked at Aico caps a
while ago and they were very expensive.

Bruce