I had a small shrub growing on top of a wall. I think it was
elderberry. I cut this down a couple of years ago, but it then regrew.
Unfortunately it has quite cleverly distorted the drain pipe, which
has added to the problem, but giving it a steady supply of water! I
have now cut it down and pulled out a rootstock about the size of a
fist. However there are still a few roots that go down into the wall
cavity and I doubt I will be able to remove these.

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.

Appreciate some tips.
Thanks Tim

I had a small shrub growing on top of a wall. I think it was
elderberry. I cut this down a couple of years ago, but it then regrew.
Unfortunately it has quite cleverly distorted the drain pipe, which
has added to the problem, but giving it a steady supply of water! I
have now cut it down and pulled out a rootstock about the size of a
fist. However there are still a few roots that go down into the wall
cavity and I doubt I will be able to remove these.

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.


Brushwood killer available from any good garden centre.

Peter Crosland

Peter Crosland wrote:
I had a small shrub growing on top of a wall. I think it was
elderberry. I cut this down a couple of years ago, but it then regrew.
Unfortunately it has quite cleverly distorted the drain pipe, which
has added to the problem, but giving it a steady supply of water! I
have now cut it down and pulled out a rootstock about the size of a
fist. However there are still a few roots that go down into the wall
cavity and I doubt I will be able to remove these.

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.


Brushwood killer available from any good garden centre.

Peter Crosland



For elder, simply wait till new shoots appear and glyphosate them.

In fact cutting back to the ground will kill it too..have these pop up
all over the place: they don't survive even an annual mowing. In fact
not much woody stuff does.

Actually, very few perennials survive mowing..grass of course does, and
some weeds. Nettles brambles and elder dont.

AJH wrote:

On Tue, 12 Aug 2008 05:20:59 -0700 (PDT), Tim Decker
wrote:

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.

Not exactly banned, rather not worth the company making the chemical
relicensing it, I think.

Glyphosate is still a licensed stump treatment and probably some of
the broadleaved herbicides containing trichlopyr, 2-4d (timbrel is
one).

sodium chlorate will work but contaminate the area for a long time.


I have used potassium permanganate for tree stump removal in the past.
I suppose it must now be banned, along with most things that work.

;-)

I used some glyphosate in the spring in a similar situation and it
seems to have been very effective. Being a tightwad, I could see that
the powder at my local was a more expensive way to buy than a ready
made spray, even though the final concentration would be similar. So
I bought the spray to see what would happen and nothing's grown back
yet.

Bruce wrote:
AJH wrote:

On Tue, 12 Aug 2008 05:20:59 -0700 (PDT), Tim Decker
wrote:

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.
Not exactly banned, rather not worth the company making the chemical
relicensing it, I think.

Glyphosate is still a licensed stump treatment and probably some of
the broadleaved herbicides containing trichlopyr, 2-4d (timbrel is
one).

sodium chlorate will work but contaminate the area for a long time.


I have used potassium permanganate for tree stump removal in the past.
I suppose it must now be banned, along with most things that work.

;-)

Perhaps not pertinent to this query, but when the electricity board cut
down a number of trees they killed the stumps by making a number of
horizontal cuts in the top then filling with weed killer.

sodium chlorate will work but contaminate the area for a long time.

It certainly works. To avoid contamination, drill a few downward sloping
holes in the side of the trunk with a flat bit. Spoon in some chlorate
then plug with a wine cork or similar. Or in the top of course if wide
enough.

Peter Scott

Peter Scott wrote:



sodium chlorate will work but contaminate the area for a long time.

It certainly works. To avoid contamination, drill a few downward sloping
holes in the side of the trunk with a flat bit. Spoon in some chlorate
then plug with a wine cork or similar. Or in the top of course if wide
enough.

I haven't used it for many years because it doesn't translocate like
glyphosate or ammonium sulphamate. We used to do just as you say and the
theory was it aided the burning of the stump later.

AJH

Broadback wrote:

Perhaps not pertinent to this query, but when the electricity board cut
down a number of trees they killed the stumps by making a number of
horizontal cuts in the top then filling with weed killer.


It's only necessary to get the chemical into the cambium, so a vertical cut
around the inner periphery dosed with chemical is effective.

AJH

andrew wrote:

Peter Scott wrote:



sodium chlorate will work but contaminate the area for a long time.

It certainly works. To avoid contamination, drill a few downward sloping
holes in the side of the trunk with a flat bit. Spoon in some chlorate
then plug with a wine cork or similar. Or in the top of course if wide
enough.

I haven't used it for many years because it doesn't translocate like
glyphosate or ammonium sulphamate. We used to do just as you say and the
theory was it aided the burning of the stump later.


That was also the reason for using permanganate of potash. It seemed
to work, because the stumps would smoulder away to almost nothing.

Bruce wrote:

That was also the reason for using permanganate of potash. Â*It seemed
to work, because the stumps would smoulder away to almost nothing.

OK, I only saw the stuff in small amounts in chemistry sets and as crystals
for disinfecting, I think it was used in public baths for treating foot
infections. Quite effective with spirit of salts IIRC ;-).

Saltpetre could be obtained in bulk then and the sodium chlorate didn't
have inhibitors in it! How did we survive before terrorists showed us our
errors?

AJH

andrew wrote:

Bruce wrote:

That was also the reason for using permanganate of potash. *It seemed
to work, because the stumps would smoulder away to almost nothing.

OK, I only saw the stuff in small amounts in chemistry sets and as crystals
for disinfecting, I think it was used in public baths for treating foot
infections. Quite effective with spirit of salts IIRC ;-).

There was also "Gentian Violet" as an antiseptic. It was withdrawn
from chemists about five years ago.

Saltpetre could be obtained in bulk then and the sodium chlorate didn't
have inhibitors in it! How did we survive before terrorists showed us our
errors?

And all they have done is found other ingredients, such as perfume and
hydrogen peroxide ....

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Decker
saying something like:

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.

Common practice on farms round here is to drill a few 1" holes in the
stump and fill them up with fertiliser granules. In such concentration
it's a toxin, not a fertiliser.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Decker
saying something like:

So, what is the best way to treat the roots, so they don't resprout. I
understand that ammonium sulphamate, which was sold as root out has
now been banned.

Common practice on farms round here is to drill a few 1" holes in the
stump and fill them up with fertiliser granules. In such concentration
it's a toxin, not a fertiliser.
To get rid of a stump drill a number of holes in it. Then repeatedly
fill with a strong saltpetre solution. After a while built a bonfire
over the stump, light and enjoy!

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Broadback
saying something like:

To get rid of a stump drill a number of holes in it. Then repeatedly
fill with a strong saltpetre solution. After a while built a bonfire
over the stump, light and enjoy!

It's what's available to hand, really. I wonder if a fertiliser-ed stump
would burn as well.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House