DIYbanter

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)
-   UK diy (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/)
-   -   core drills (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/254636-core-drills.html)

Fred July 3rd 08 12:17 PM

core drills
 
Hi,

I wanted to put an extractor fan in our cloakroom. I've never
understood why they are called cloakrooms because I've never seen any
coats in it!

So I have bought a cheap TCT core drill from Tool Station. It's made
by silverline and I don't know what you think of it but for occasional
DIY use, I am hoping it will be fine.

I wonder why they are called core drills when they drill through
masonry but hole saws when they go through wood?

Anyhow, there are no instructions included so please can you help? It
seems obvious that the core screws on to the arbour. I also bought a
guide bit. Are these essential? I would think they are as they would
help you keep a straight line and prevent the drill from catching?

The bit does not have a thread, at least not on the arbour end! How
does it stay in place? I pushed it in but it kept falling out. Am I
supposed to encourage it with a hammer or a sharp tap against the
wall?

I know I have to spin it as slowly as possible (its 110mm diameter)
with a drill with a clutch but I am unsure whether to use hammer
action or not?

I presume it will only drill as deep as the core, so at that point do
I stop drilling and chisel the core out before continuing?

I realise I should drill a small hole through the wall to mark the
centre and work inwards from both sides, meeting in the middle.

Thanks in advance.

John Rumm July 3rd 08 05:53 PM

core drills
 
Fred wrote:

I wonder why they are called core drills when they drill through
masonry but hole saws when they go through wood?


Probably because you tend to drill much deeper holes in masonry...

Anyhow, there are no instructions included so please can you help? It
seems obvious that the core screws on to the arbour. I also bought a
guide bit. Are these essential? I would think they are as they would
help you keep a straight line and prevent the drill from catching?


The guide bit is essential for starting off. Once you have started
cutting your core you can remove the guide bit.

The bit does not have a thread, at least not on the arbour end! How
does it stay in place? I pushed it in but it kept falling out. Am I
supposed to encourage it with a hammer or a sharp tap against the
wall?


It will be a morse taper fitting. protect the tip with a bit of scrap
wood and tap it with a hammer.

I know I have to spin it as slowly as possible (its 110mm diameter)
with a drill with a clutch but I am unsure whether to use hammer
action or not?


You probably want to spin it at 1000 rpm ish. That is often close to max
speed on a SDS machine.

The TCT bits you can use hammer on, the diamond ones you can't

I presume it will only drill as deep as the core, so at that point do
I stop drilling and chisel the core out before continuing?


Yup. SDS chisel will make it easy. The longer ones will do a whole brick
at a time which makes it easy as you do the two leaves of the wall in
two hits.

I realise I should drill a small hole through the wall to mark the
centre and work inwards from both sides, meeting in the middle.


No real need to go in from both sides - there is no real exit wound with
a core drill (with a TCT one, turn off hammer for the last bit). Also if
you drill from both sides you will end up with a core that is not in
perfect alignment, Which can make putting a sleeving tube through it
difficult.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:30 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter