[Samantha Booth]

Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat hangers
(4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The coats are
heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty anchors would have
sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall to attach to. Also with
under the stais being sloped I cannot fix into the batton behind, would
gripfill do? Any ideas folks?

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size of
your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I use?

Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in B&Q.

Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

Sam

[George]

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small
roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in B&Q.

Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

Sam





How much is expensive?

[Samantha Booth]

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small
roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in
B&Q.

Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

Sam





How much is expensive?


From memory it was £7 a roll, but on their site its showing as £4 ish so I
may have got that wrong.

[George]

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small
roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in
B&Q.

Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

Sam





How much is expensive?


From memory it was £7 a roll, but on their site its showing as £4 ish so I
may have got that wrong.



Funny that £4.19 for 1700 grade is dear even for wickes,my local wallpaper
shop does it for £2.75..1700 grade.

[Samantha Booth]

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small
roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in
B&Q.

Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

Sam





How much is expensive?


From memory it was £7 a roll, but on their site its showing as £4 ish so
I
may have got that wrong.



Funny that £4.19 for 1700 grade is dear even for wickes,my local wallpaper
shop does it for £2.75..1700 grade.


Will shop around in that case George. Thanks

[George]

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size of
your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I
use?


You could buy a bag of "Dry Wall Adhesive" Sammy but its about £4.95 a large
bag and can be used like polyfilla but dries rock hard and at the same time
it can sanded easily and has good solid adhesion properties.

Thing is you will have more than enough to do quite a few walls . ;-)

[Samantha Booth]

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size
of
your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I
use?


You could buy a bag of "Dry Wall Adhesive" Sammy but its about £4.95 a
large
bag and can be used like polyfilla but dries rock hard and at the same
time
it can sanded easily and has good solid adhesion properties.

Thing is you will have more than enough to do quite a few walls . ;-)

Sounds like exactly the stuff I need. Do B&Q sell it as I live near one,
mind we have a Screwfix trade place opening here next week. I am moving in
!!

THANKS George

[George]

Again wices is dear even for this.
I get mine straight from the builders yard.

http://tinyurl.com/4n9pnx

[Dave]

Samantha Booth wrote:


Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

As long as you move forwards after every answer, It is not a problem.

Dave

[George]

"George" wrote in message
.. .
Again wices is dear even for this.
I get mine straight from the builders yard.

http://tinyurl.com/4n9pnx



oops! sorry sammy forget this as its the wrong stuff,tis not dry wall
adhesive.

Cant see it on wickes?

[Samantha Booth]

"Dave" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:


Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

As long as you move forwards after every answer, It is not a problem.

Dave
Hey Dave I have done. I have learnt so much these past months. What a great
group

[Steve Walker]

Samantha Booth wrote:
Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat
hangers (4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled
through the plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do
it. The coats are heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy
duty anchors would have sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid
wall to attach to. Also with under the stais being sloped I cannot
fix into the batton behind, would gripfill do? Any ideas folks?

For a heavy load your only practical solutions are to either gripfill a
larger plywood board to the wall and then fix to the centre of that, or to
fit the rack with screws directly into a yimber behind the plasterboard.
No pb fixing will resist a prolonged load on a levered coathook, imho.

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the
size of your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some
are dented plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller
but with the ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this.
What else can I use?

Get a scrap of plasterboard, hardboard or plywood which you can fit through
the hole and press against it from the inside (eg post it like a letter, and
then turn it flsuh with the wall once it's inside). Butter the sides with
filler or no-nails, and pull it firmly into place *on the inside*. You may
need to rig a temporary support until it sets. Then you only need to fill
the 12mm depth of the board, and it will be stronger too.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
Samantha Booth wrote:
Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size
of your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are
dented plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but
with the ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What
else can I use?

'One coat' or repair plaster - the sheds sell it in just about manageable
bags for the same sort of price as pollyfilla, but for a much larger
quantity. There are instructions for use on the bag - it's pretty easy.

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dave]

Samantha Booth wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...

Samantha Booth wrote:



Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.

As long as you move forwards after every answer, It is not a problem.

Dave

Hey Dave I have done. I have learnt so much these past months. What a great
group

Yes, I think that too.

Dave

[George]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message

'One coat' or repair plaster - the sheds sell it in just about manageable
bags for the same sort of price as pollyfilla, but for a much larger
quantity. There are instructions for use on the bag - it's pretty easy.

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Plastering is not everyones cup of tea though. ;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
George wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message

'One coat' or repair plaster - the sheds sell it in just about
manageable bags for the same sort of price as pollyfilla, but for a
much larger quantity. There are instructions for use on the bag - it's
pretty easy.

Plastering is not everyones cup of tea though. ;-)

If you follow the instructions most will make a good job of patching a
hole - it's probably easier than with polyfilla. I agree large repairs can
be tricky.

--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[John Rumm]

Samantha Booth wrote:

Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat hangers
(4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The coats are
heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty anchors would have
sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall to attach to. Also with
under the stais being sloped I cannot fix into the batton behind, would
gripfill do? Any ideas folks?

Ideally screwing into a stud rather than the PB. Another solution if
that is not possible is using a batten on the wall behind the hooks to
spread the load and if possible allow attachment to a stud that way. You
can even in extremis cut out a section of PB and replace with half inch
ply. That will take a much better screwed fixing. It would probably need
skimming to finish though.

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size of
your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I use?

Board fill is cheaper and sands easily - that will deal with the dents.
For the holes, cut a patch piece larger than the hole and draw round it.
Cut away the edges of the broken section of wall leaving a patch sized
hole. The traditional way to hold the patch in place is with a batten or
two inserted into the wall and screwed to the back surface of the PB via
drywall screws through the front. The new bit can in turn be screwed to
the batten.

A more modern version is the "Bear claw" drywall clip. These fit on the
edge of the patch and allow you to simply push it into the hole, where
they then grip the edge of the hole. They have the advantage of allowing
you to use 1/2" PB to fix any hole regardless of the actual thickness of
board used on the wall.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=110041203119


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

[The Medway Handyman]

John Rumm wrote:
Samantha Booth wrote:

Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat
hangers (4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled
through the plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do
it. The coats are heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy
duty anchors would have sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid
wall to attach to. Also with under the stais being sloped I cannot
fix into the batton behind, would gripfill do? Any ideas folks?

Ideally screwing into a stud rather than the PB. Another solution if
that is not possible is using a batten on the wall behind the hooks to
spread the load and if possible allow attachment to a stud that way.
You can even in extremis cut out a section of PB and replace with
half inch ply. That will take a much better screwed fixing. It would
probably need skimming to finish though.

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the
size of your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some
are dented plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller
but with the ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this.
What else can I use?

Board fill is cheaper and sands easily - that will deal with the
dents. For the holes, cut a patch piece larger than the hole and draw
round it. Cut away the edges of the broken section of wall leaving a
patch sized hole. The traditional way to hold the patch in place is
with a batten or two inserted into the wall and screwed to the back
surface of the PB via drywall screws through the front. The new bit
can in turn be screwed to the batten.

A more modern version is the "Bear claw" drywall clip. These fit on
the edge of the patch and allow you to simply push it into the hole,
where they then grip the edge of the hole. They have the advantage of
allowing you to use 1/2" PB to fix any hole regardless of the actual
thickness of board used on the wall.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=110041203119

Never seen them before, but if the patch is flush with the existing PB you
have the clips protruding on the face of both - how can you caver them up?

"The clip is made of 0.38mm (0.015") thick metal (about the thickness of a
corner bead), so it is easy to cover with joint compound. "

I don't think so.....


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[[email protected]]

On Jun 12, 10:18*pm, "Steve Walker" wrote:
Samantha Booth wrote:

Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat
hangers (4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled
through the plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do
it. The coats are heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy
duty anchors would have sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid
wall to attach to. Also with under the stais being sloped I cannot
fix into the batton behind, would gripfill do? Any ideas folks?

For a heavy load your only practical solutions are to either gripfill a
larger plywood board to the wall and then fix to the centre of that, or to
fit the rack with screws directly into a yimber behind the plasterboard.
No pb fixing will resist a prolonged load on a levered coathook, imho.

Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the
size of your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some
are dented plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller
but with the ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this.
What else can I use?

Get a scrap of plasterboard, hardboard or plywood which you can fit through
the hole and press against it from the inside (eg post it like a letter, and
then turn it flsuh with the wall once it's inside). * *Butter the sides with
filler or no-nails, and pull it firmly into place *on the inside*. *You may
need to rig a temporary support until it sets. *Then you only need to fill
the 12mm depth of the board, and it will be stronger too.


IME fixing even one coathook to PB is impractical. Yes it fixes ok,
and yes it works... but over a year or 2 the pb gradually crumbles
till the hook comes loose. PB just isnt strong enough. You need to fix
your 4 hook rack to something more solid somehow, else I cant see it
lasting.

Good suggestions already made. One thing I've never tried is sticking
a few sheets of PB behind a hole so you get a thick fairly solid area
a couple of inches deep to fix into.


NT

[John Rumm]

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Never seen them before, but if the patch is flush with the existing PB you
have the clips protruding on the face of both - how can you caver them up?

"The clip is made of 0.38mm (0.015") thick metal (about the thickness of a
corner bead), so it is easy to cover with joint compound. "

I don't think so.....

I presume if patching a already skimmed wall, one would cut away a small
section of skim in the clip positions.

Bit corny, but:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UyyIhirm9M

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

[George]

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat hangers
(4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The coats are
heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty anchors would have
sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall to attach to. Also with
under the stais being sloped I cannot fix into the batton behind, would
gripfill do? Any ideas folks?


Sammy are you willing to do this?....

Position the coathanger on the wall were its going to be,level it up with a
spirit level or eyesight? draw round the coathanger before taking it away.

I presume the coathanger is about 14" to 16" long? within the drawn
rectangle on the PB cut out a 6" long rectangle and almost the width of the
coathanger.

Now get a piece of 2x2 wood batten about the lenght of the coathanger and
put a piece of string around the 2x2 batten,shove the 2x2 batten in the hole
so that the wood goes behind the PB and pull the wood against the inside of
the PB with the string try to line it up with the cutout as best you can
then screw 2 or 3 screws through the PB and into the 2x2 wood batten on both
sides of the cutout.
Cut a piece of PB slightly smaller than the cutout and screw to batten then
fill in any discrepancies.

Screw coathanger onto PB and through into the wood batten. ;-)

[Samantha Booth]

"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat
hangers
(4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The coats are
heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty anchors would have
sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall to attach to. Also with
under the stais being sloped I cannot fix into the batton behind, would
gripfill do? Any ideas folks?


Sammy are you willing to do this?....

Position the coathanger on the wall were its going to be,level it up with
a
spirit level or eyesight? draw round the coathanger before taking it away.

I presume the coathanger is about 14" to 16" long? within the drawn
rectangle on the PB cut out a 6" long rectangle and almost the width of
the
coathanger.

Now get a piece of 2x2 wood batten about the lenght of the coathanger and
put a piece of string around the 2x2 batten,shove the 2x2 batten in the
hole
so that the wood goes behind the PB and pull the wood against the inside
of
the PB with the string try to line it up with the cutout as best you can
then screw 2 or 3 screws through the PB and into the 2x2 wood batten on
both
sides of the cutout.
Cut a piece of PB slightly smaller than the cutout and screw to batten
then
fill in any discrepancies.

Screw coathanger onto PB and through into the wood batten. ;-)


Sure am. I have a few to put up actually. I may be better off removing the
triangle pb, and replacing it with wood. At least it will last the test of
time. Thanks for all the suggestions, its been a great help.

Sam

[S Viemeister[_2_]]

Samantha Booth wrote:

Sure am. I have a few to put up actually. I may be better off removing the
triangle pb, and replacing it with wood. At least it will last the test of
time. Thanks for all the suggestions, its been a great help.


I like the idea of replacing the plasterboard with wood - we did that in
one section of the kitchen - made it much easier to mount things.

Sheila

[The Medway Handyman]

Samantha Booth wrote:
"George" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat
hangers
(4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The
coats are heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty
anchors would have sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall
to attach to. Also with under the stais being sloped I cannot fix
into the batton behind, would gripfill do? Any ideas folks?


Sammy are you willing to do this?....

Position the coathanger on the wall were its going to be,level it up
with a
spirit level or eyesight? draw round the coathanger before taking it
away. I presume the coathanger is about 14" to 16" long? within the drawn
rectangle on the PB cut out a 6" long rectangle and almost the width
of the
coathanger.

Now get a piece of 2x2 wood batten about the lenght of the
coathanger and put a piece of string around the 2x2 batten,shove the
2x2 batten in the hole
so that the wood goes behind the PB and pull the wood against the
inside of
the PB with the string try to line it up with the cutout as best you
can then screw 2 or 3 screws through the PB and into the 2x2 wood
batten on both
sides of the cutout.
Cut a piece of PB slightly smaller than the cutout and screw to
batten then
fill in any discrepancies.

Screw coathanger onto PB and through into the wood batten. ;-)


Sure am. I have a few to put up actually. I may be better off
removing the triangle pb, and replacing it with wood. At least it
will last the test of time. Thanks for all the suggestions, its been
a great help.

If the rest are on straight walls e.g. not at an angle then any stress wil
be straight down. Use a couple of expanding anchors
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12229/...6mm-Pack-of-10

Cover the base peice of wood with grab adhesive & tighten up the anchors.
After an hour it wil be easier to pull a sailor off your sister.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk