Drilling Tiles
 

Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Thanks

Tom

Drilling Tiles
 

"Thomarse" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Thanks

Tom

For small holes to insert plugs and screws etc I have just used a masonary
bit with masking tape on the tile to stop the bit slipping.

Drilling Tiles
 

On 06/06/2008 14:59 Thomarse wrote:

Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

I've used my SDS drill and standard SDS bits without any problems. Don't
forget to turn the hammer action off!

--
F

Drilling Tiles
 

In article
,
Thomarse wrote:
I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

It really depends what they are made of. Some these days are porcelain and
you need a pukka diamond drill for those. Plus a deal of patience.
I must admit to not being impressed with those tile drills. The universal
Bosch ones work better and cost no more. But if the tiles are not too hard
an ordinary new and sharp masonry bit works fine with no hammer action.
Dipping the tip in water helps keep it cool and sharp.

--
*Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Drilling Tiles
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Thomarse wrote:
I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

It really depends what they are made of. Some these days are porcelain and
you need a pukka diamond drill for those. Plus a deal of patience.
I must admit to not being impressed with those tile drills. The universal
Bosch ones work better and cost no more. But if the tiles are not too hard
an ordinary new and sharp masonry bit works fine with no hammer action.
Dipping the tip in water helps keep it cool and sharp.

--
*Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Best to have a new drill as they tend to get a bit rounded off with use. The
sharp edge at the point is needed to chip away the glaze. If worn it will
merely rub.

Drilling Tiles
 

Thomarse wrote:
Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Use one of these Bosch Multi Material bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/26900/...-Bit-6-x-100mm

They have a much sharper point than a standard masonry bit. With the drill
off, push the bit onto the mark where the hole will be - push hard & you
will hear a 'creak' noise as the point penetrates the surface. No need for
tape, the bit won't now wander.

Drill with hammer off until you go through the tile, then switch the hammer
on if necessary.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Drilling Tiles
 

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...


Thomarse wrote:
Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Use one of these Bosch Multi Material bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/26900/...-Bit-6-x-100mm

They have a much sharper point than a standard masonry bit. With the
drill off, push the bit onto the mark where the hole will be - push hard &
you will hear a 'creak' noise as the point penetrates the surface. No
need for tape, the bit won't now wander.

Drill with hammer off until you go through the tile, then switch the
hammer on if necessary.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



I have just bought one of these on you recommendation MHM. I also got the
two sets of rawplugs to try them both. I too am putting up a pull out mirror
tomorrow and drilling through the tiles. Is it best to try to go through the
grout? Will use the bosch multi purpose drill bit you recommended to me on
the plasterboard screw thread.

Drilling Tiles
 

Thomarse wrote:
Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Thanks

Tom
Ive tried the lot.All work but the one I like the best is a little
diamond core drill. Takes its time and likes to be well lubricated, but
there is almost no pressure on the tile.

I did buy it for quartzite mosaics: i used to ue standard masonry for
crap tiles and did once borrow a pointy thing for a harder tile.

But I have cracked cheap tiles with a masonry bit and a tad too much
pressure. Which you need to get past thye glaze. Once into the substrate
almost anything works pretty well.

But I love my little diamond core drill!

Drilling Tiles
 

Samantha Booth wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message ...


Thomarse wrote:
Hi,

I need to drill into my new ceramic wall tiles in my bathroom to
install a shelf etc. Would you recomend using specific tile drill
bits, which are the spear point type or can I get away with using
standard masonry drill bit?

Use one of these Bosch Multi Material bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/26900/...-Bit-6-x-100mm

They have a much sharper point than a standard masonry bit. With the
drill off, push the bit onto the mark where the hole will be - push
hard & you will hear a 'creak' noise as the point penetrates the
surface. No need for tape, the bit won't now wander.

Drill with hammer off until you go through the tile, then switch the
hammer on if necessary.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



I have just bought one of these on you recommendation MHM. I also got
the two sets of rawplugs to try them both. I too am putting up a pull
out mirror tomorrow and drilling through the tiles. Is it best to try
to go through the grout?

Personally I don't think so. The grout line is rarely in the right place
for top & bottom fixings, plus IME its easier to chip the edge of a tile
than when drilling a hole in the main part

Will use the bosch multi purpose drill bit
you recommended to me on the plasterboard screw thread.

Ideal. Let us know how you get on.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Drilling Tiles
 

In article ,
Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it best to try to go through the grout?

Not really - with 'weak' tiles there's a very real danger of cracking
them. If you really need to drill there use a diamond core drill.

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Drilling Tiles
 

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Ive tried the lot.All work but the one I like the best is a little
diamond core drill. Takes its time and likes to be well lubricated, but
there is almost no pressure on the tile.

Slow isn't the word if the tiles are hard.

I did buy it for quartzite mosaics: i used to ue standard masonry for
crap tiles and did once borrow a pointy thing for a harder tile.

But I have cracked cheap tiles with a masonry bit and a tad too much
pressure. Which you need to get past thye glaze. Once into the substrate
almost anything works pretty well.

An ordinary HSS drill is fine for breaking the glaze. But will blunt
rapidly when it hits the ceramic.

The Bosch multi purpose mentioned before are pretty well the same as HSS
for getting through glass - but don't blunt on the ceramic. They struggle
with porcelain, though.

But I love my little diamond core drill!

--
*Monday is an awful way to spend 1/7th of your life *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Drilling Tiles
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Ive tried the lot.All work but the one I like the best is a little
diamond core drill. Takes its time and likes to be well lubricated, but
there is almost no pressure on the tile.

Slow isn't the word if the tiles are hard.

I did buy it for quartzite mosaics: i used to ue standard masonry for
crap tiles and did once borrow a pointy thing for a harder tile.

But I have cracked cheap tiles with a masonry bit and a tad too much
pressure. Which you need to get past thye glaze. Once into the substrate
almost anything works pretty well.

An ordinary HSS drill is fine for breaking the glaze. But will blunt
rapidly when it hits the ceramic.

The Bosch multi purpose mentioned before are pretty well the same as HSS
for getting through glass - but don't blunt on the ceramic. They struggle
with porcelain, though.

But I love my little diamond core drill!

--
*Monday is an awful way to spend 1/7th of your life *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I usually use a 'standard' metalworking centre punch and a very light tap
with a hammer to break the glaze and provide a non-slip 'start' for a
standard masonry drill. I usually put a small one through the tile and into
the wall first, and then open out the hole in the tile, and the wall behind
if necessary, with a larger standard masonry drill. I've been doing it like
that for 30 odd years, without having to use a new drill bit every time, and
without ever breaking a tile.

Arfa

Drilling Tiles
 

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
I usually use a 'standard' metalworking centre punch and a very light
tap with a hammer to break the glaze and provide a non-slip 'start' for
a standard masonry drill. I usually put a small one through the tile
and into the wall first, and then open out the hole in the tile, and
the wall behind if necessary, with a larger standard masonry drill.
I've been doing it like that for 30 odd years, without having to use a
new drill bit every time, and without ever breaking a tile.

I have a tungsten carbide tipped tile cutter and use the point of that to
break the glaze and provide a pilot - I've not had the confidence to use a
centre punch, which does sound a good idea. But I'd bet I'd manage to
break a tile if trying it. ;-)

--
*42.7% of statistics are made up. Sorry, that should read 47.2% *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Drilling Tiles
 

On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 11:42:41 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I've not had the confidence to use a centre punch, which does sound a
good idea.

'Tis, it's what I use, or a nail. It just needs a very gently tap to break
the glaze. I sometimes work the tip of the punch (nail) a bit to get a
good start for the drill. Don't bother with a pilot but do use one of
those "universal" drills rather than a standard masonary one.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Drilling Tiles
 

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 11:42:41 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I've not had the confidence to use a centre punch, which does sound a
good idea.

'Tis, it's what I use, or a nail. It just needs a very gently tap to break
the glaze. I sometimes work the tip of the punch (nail) a bit to get a
good start for the drill. Don't bother with a pilot but do use one of
those "universal" drills rather than a standard masonary one.

--
Cheers
Dave.


The main reason that I put a small hole through first, is that the smaller
drill flutes have less glaze to get through before starting to cut the
actual tile substrate. Also, the smaller flute area at the tip allows a
greater pressure to be applied which can help with hard tiles, and to keep
the drill tip temperature down. It also gets you into the wall behind
easier, without having to apply hammer action with the drill shaft through
the hole in the tile. Once you are through with the small hole, a larger
diameter drill to suit the shoulder of the plug, easily removes the
additional 'ring' of glaze, and opens the hole in the tile with a minimum of
stress. If you don't follow all the way in with the larger drill, when you
insert the wall plug, it will grab nice and tight at its tip, into the
reduced size hole. When you then whack the screw in with your electric
screwdriver, it tightens nicely as the screw gets to the bottom of the plug,
and doesn't 'run away' with you, as is so easily done when driving with a
high torque electric screwdriver, and crack the tile.

Arfa