Fixing washing machine leak
 

On Tue, 08 Apr 2008 11:50:31 GMT, T i m wrote:

On Tue, 08 Apr 2008 11:31:18 GMT, lid (AnthonyL)
wrote:

The AEG Lavamat 610 washing machine has developed a leak from the
flexible hose connection to the soap tray.

So this is the water from the soap tray to drum (so no pressure as
such)?

Correct


I've taken it apart and used PTFE tape. This worked on an empty wash
so I was quite pleased with myself but after doing a full wash there
was water on the floor again this morning, albeit a much smaller
amount.

Are you sure it's coming from the same place? Have you checked that
the water can run from the soap tray into the drum ok (often blocked
with soap under there)?

I was staggered by how much crud there was. And this blue "swarfega
like" gel which I assume was undissolved fabric conditioner. But I've
cleaned all that up.



Is there an easy way to make a better seal? The flexible hose is
otherwise in good condition and I am reluctant to take it off at the
drum as it is hard to get to, it is not leaking there and I can
imagine I'll have problems getting it back on.

Sometimes you can cut the hose back slightly to get on a 'fresh bit'
but a new hose might be the best thing and could be easier to get at
once you have say leaned the machine over or maybe removed the pump or
motor. What about building up the outlet a touch with something less
slippery than PTFE, like self amalgamating or hose repair tape?

An alternative is to cut the pipe in such a way as to get a fresh bit
on the fitting then use some suitable pipe fitted inside the existing
(and clipped etc) to extend it, to make up for the missing pipe sorta
thing?


No, none of that will work. The hose is thick at the end with a
recess (groove). The recess fits into the flat hole in the tray. A
flanged plastic collar device is then pushed down into the top of the
hose to hold everything in place.


--
AnthonyL

Fixing washing machine leak
 

"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
No, none of that will work. The hose is thick at the end with a
recess (groove). The recess fits into the flat hole in the tray. A
flanged plastic collar device is then pushed down into the top of the
hose to hold everything in place.

If it's not amenable to a hose clip then I'd suggest the following.

1) Clean the tube right the way through to the drum to ensure it isn't a
build up of water caused by a blockage lower down. Rod it through with
something if you can't completely remove the tube. A coat hanger with one
end bent into a tight loop should do it.

2) Clean up the top end and the fitting until all trace of soap or grease is
gone and apply a smear of ordinary bathroom or general purpose silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces. Reassemble and leave to set for several
hours, preferably 24 until the silicone has set properly. If there's no
pressure in a fitting then silicone cures just about every leak you'll ever
come across.
--
Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines

Fixing washing machine leak
 

On Tue, 8 Apr 2008 14:55:39 +0100, "Dave Baker" wrote:


"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
No, none of that will work. The hose is thick at the end with a
recess (groove). The recess fits into the flat hole in the tray. A
flanged plastic collar device is then pushed down into the top of the
hose to hold everything in place.

If it's not amenable to a hose clip then I'd suggest the following.

1) Clean the tube right the way through to the drum to ensure it isn't a
build up of water caused by a blockage lower down. Rod it through with
something if you can't completely remove the tube. A coat hanger with one
end bent into a tight loop should do it.

It's clear.


2) Clean up the top end and the fitting until all trace of soap or grease is
gone and apply a smear of ordinary bathroom or general purpose silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces. Reassemble and leave to set for several
hours, preferably 24 until the silicone has set properly. If there's no
pressure in a fitting then silicone cures just about every leak you'll ever
come across.

That sounds promising. Presumably the silicone will retain a bit of
flexibility to accommodate the vibration. It will only be a thin
smear as everything is a pretty tight fit even now.

Also will the silicone come off if needed? I would only have to get
it off the plastic surfaces if the flexible tube was to be replaced.

Cheers


--
AnthonyL