screws and screwdrivers
 

Hello,

My cordless screwdriver seems to be on its way out. Its a Bosch model
hat I have had a for a few years. What is the life expectancy of the
batteries in these? I presume they are not replaceable?

I think the battery is worn out because it will not hold a charge.

Is it time to upgrade to a new one? Do you recommend a dedicated
screwdriver or should I use the opportunity to get a cordless drill? I
would think a drill might be a bit too bulky for screws.

I suppose you might recommend an impact driver but they seem very
expensive.

By the way, is there such a thing as a general purpose screw or is it
a matter of a different type for each application? Up to now I have
used Screwfix's Quicksilver range. I only really use it for joining
bits of wood or with a wall plug. I'm running a bit low, is there
something better I should stock up with?

screws and screwdrivers
 

wrote in message
...
Hello,

My cordless screwdriver seems to be on its way out. Its a Bosch model
hat I have had a for a few years. What is the life expectancy of the
batteries in these? I presume they are not replaceable?

I think the battery is worn out because it will not hold a charge.

Is it time to upgrade to a new one? Do you recommend a dedicated
screwdriver or should I use the opportunity to get a cordless drill? I
would think a drill might be a bit too bulky for screws.

I suppose you might recommend an impact driver but they seem very
expensive.

By the way, is there such a thing as a general purpose screw or is it
a matter of a different type for each application? Up to now I have
used Screwfix's Quicksilver range. I only really use it for joining
bits of wood or with a wall plug. I'm running a bit low, is there
something better I should stock up with?

The price of Bosch blue cordless drills has plummeted lately, especially the
14.4v blue range,
....much to my regret.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/75255/...Trade-_-Image#

Arthur

screws and screwdrivers
 

On Dec 11, 8:22 pm, "Arthur2" wrote:

The price of Bosch blue cordless drills has plummeted lately, especially the
14.4v blue range,
...much to my regret.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/75255/...uct-_-E07W44A-...

Probably 'cause they're now made in China:

http://www.bosch.com.cn/new/web/boschinchina/consumer_pt_en.htm

cheers,
Pete.

screws and screwdrivers
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

wrote:


By the way, is there such a thing as a general purpose screw or is it
a matter of a different type for each application? Up to now I have
used Screwfix's Quicksilver range. I only really use it for joining
bits of wood or with a wall plug. I'm running a bit low, is there
something better I should stock up with?

If you're using an electric driver, or drill-driver, forget anything with a
Pozidrive-type head - the bit cam out and chew the heads up too easily.
Instead, use screws with T-star (Torx) heads (See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10664) such as Screwfix 24061. They come in
various diameters (designated in mm rather than conventional screw gauge)
and lengths. You'll need to get a set of Torx bits if you haven't already
got any, but you'll never look back once you've made the change.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

screws and screwdrivers
 

On 11 Dec, 22:42, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,


wrote:

By the way, is there such a thing as a general purpose screw or is it
a matter of a different type for each application? Up to now I have
used Screwfix's Quicksilver range. I only really use it for joining
bits of wood or with a wall plug. I'm running a bit low, is there
something better I should stock up with?

If you're using an electric driver, or drill-driver, forget anything with a
Pozidrive-type head - the bit cam out and chew the heads up too easily.
Instead, use screws with T-star (Torx) heads (Seehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10664) such as Screwfix 24061. They come in
various diameters (designated in mm rather than conventional screw gauge)
and lengths. You'll need to get a set of Torx bits if you haven't already
got any, but you'll never look back once you've made the change.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

I will counter that suggestion, because what Roger is forgetting is
that few of us have Torx bits whereas we all have cross head bits of
one sort or another, so that any future maintainer will be unable to
do these screws he is suggesting you put in.
It's interesting that Screwfix only stock Torx screws in their outdoor
range. And then again are we going to be face with having to change
the Torx bit for each screw size ?

I don't have any problem with cam-out and that is with a selection of
Screwfix cross head screw types because I make sure I use drivers in
good condition, and I use a sensible torque setting on a battery
driver that is not over powerful.

Rob

screws and screwdrivers
 

wrote:
Hello,

My cordless screwdriver seems to be on its way out. Its a Bosch model
hat I have had a for a few years. What is the life expectancy of the
batteries in these? I presume they are not replaceable?

I think the battery is worn out because it will not hold a charge.

Is it time to upgrade to a new one? Do you recommend a dedicated
screwdriver or should I use the opportunity to get a cordless drill? I
would think a drill might be a bit too bulky for screws.

I'd go for a cordless drill driver maybe 12v. Good makes are surprisingly
powerful for their size & weight. Makita, DeWalt or Bosch are worth a
look - lots of good deals around.

I suppose you might recommend an impact driver but they seem very
expensive.

Only if you are driving large screws/coach bolts or large quantities of
screws.

By the way, is there such a thing as a general purpose screw or is it
a matter of a different type for each application? Up to now I have
used Screwfix's Quicksilver range. I only really use it for joining
bits of wood or with a wall plug. I'm running a bit low, is there
something better I should stock up with?

I use Quicksilver with wall plugs & Turbo Gold on wood. Turbo Golds are
brilliant - fast driving, no pilot, work right up to the edge without
splitting.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

screws and screwdrivers
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
robgraham wrote:

On 11 Dec, 22:42, "Roger Mills" wrote:

If you're using an electric driver, or drill-driver, forget anything
with a Pozidrive-type head - the bits cam out and chew the heads up too
easily. Instead, use screws with T-star (Torx) heads.

I will counter that suggestion, because what Roger is forgetting is
that few of us have Torx bits whereas we all have cross head bits of
one sort or another, so that any future maintainer will be unable to
do these screws he is suggesting you put in.

Sorry - but that's nonsense. When I was a kid, no-one had anything other
than flat blade screwdrivers - but that didn't stop Philips and Pozi screws
becoming popular. Many electrical appliances (not to mention cars!) are held
together with torx-head screws, so most keen DIY-ers will have at least some
torx bits.

I don't have any problem with cam-out and that is with a selection of
Screwfix cross head screw types because I make sure I use drivers in
good condition, and I use a sensible torque setting on a battery
driver that is not over powerful.

Yes, but what happens when you try to *remove* a screw from wood that's past
its best? You have to push axially onto a screw with a cross-head bit - with
the result that the screw simply rotates but doesn't actually come out.
Whereas with a torx screw, you can rotate it without pressing on it - so it
comes out easily.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

screws and screwdrivers
 

Roger Mills wrote:
Yes, but what happens when you try to *remove* a screw from wood that's past
its best? You have to push axially onto a screw with a cross-head bit - with
the result that the screw simply rotates but doesn't actually come out.
Whereas with a torx screw, you can rotate it without pressing on it - so it
comes out easily.

What's a rusty torx screw like to get out?

Andy

screws and screwdrivers
 

In message , Andy Champ
writes
Roger Mills wrote:
Yes, but what happens when you try to *remove* a screw from wood
that's past its best? You have to push axially onto a screw with a
cross-head bit - with the result that the screw simply rotates but
doesn't actually come out. Whereas with a torx screw, you can rotate
it without pressing on it - so it comes out easily.

What's a rusty torx screw like to get out?

Prolly still rusty ...

--
geoff

screws and screwdrivers
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Champ wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
Yes, but what happens when you try to *remove* a screw from wood
that's past its best? You have to push axially onto a screw with a
cross-head bit - with the result that the screw simply rotates but
doesn't actually come out. Whereas with a torx screw, you can rotate
it without pressing on it - so it comes out easily.

What's a rusty torx screw like to get out?

Andy

Not a problem - unless it shears off - but that could happen to *any* screw.

I was actually referring to the *wood* being past its best - rather than the
screw. If you can rotate a screw without pushing on it (which you *can* with
a torx screw), it will come out - even in slightly soggy wood. But with a
cross-head/pozi - which needs axial pressure for the driver to engage -
you've *no* chance.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

screws and screwdrivers
 

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Champ wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
Yes, but what happens when you try to *remove* a screw from wood
that's past its best? You have to push axially onto a screw with a
cross-head bit - with the result that the screw simply rotates but
doesn't actually come out. Whereas with a torx screw, you can rotate
it without pressing on it - so it comes out easily.

What's a rusty torx screw like to get out?

Andy

Not a problem - unless it shears off - but that could happen to *any* screw.

I was actually referring to the *wood* being past its best - rather than the
screw. If you can rotate a screw without pushing on it (which you *can* with
a torx screw), it will come out - even in slightly soggy wood. But with a
cross-head/pozi - which needs axial pressure for the driver to engage -
you've *no* chance.

It needs very little pressure on a PoziDriv screw if the head is
undamaged, the design is specifically aimed at minimising the chance
that the screwdriver will 'cam out' isn't it?

--
Chris Green

screws and screwdrivers
 

On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:38:23 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I'd go for a cordless drill driver maybe 12v. Good makes are surprisingly
powerful for their size & weight. Makita, DeWalt or Bosch are worth a
look - lots of good deals around.

Sorry for the late reply.

There's been a couple of recommendations for the Bosch, I'll have to
look into that.

I see some cordless drills are screwdriver/drills and others are
drills/hammer drills. Is it not possible to get one tool that does all
three: screw driver/drill/hammer drill?

I use Quicksilver with wall plugs & Turbo Gold on wood. Turbo Golds are
brilliant - fast driving, no pilot, work right up to the edge without
splitting.

Thanks. I'll look into the turbo gold. Splitting can be tricky near
the edge. How do Turbo gold avoid that?

Merry Christmas.

screws and screwdrivers
 

In article ,
wrote:
I see some cordless drills are screwdriver/drills and others are
drills/hammer drills. Is it not possible to get one tool that does all
three: screw driver/drill/hammer drill?

Yes; I'd say any cordless drill these days will be fine for screw driving.
All you really need for this is a slow chuck speed or variable speed. A
slipping clutch to set the maximum torque is useful but not essential. I
have an ancient mains hammer drill that reverses and has a 50 rpm speed
and no clutch which I used for screw driving before cordless arrived.

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

screws and screwdrivers
 

wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:38:23 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I'd go for a cordless drill driver maybe 12v. Good makes are
surprisingly powerful for their size & weight. Makita, DeWalt or
Bosch are worth a look - lots of good deals around.

Sorry for the late reply.

There's been a couple of recommendations for the Bosch, I'll have to
look into that.

I see some cordless drills are screwdriver/drills and others are
drills/hammer drills. Is it not possible to get one tool that does all
three: screw driver/drill/hammer drill?

Thats what a 'Combi' drill driver does - drills, drives screws, hammer
drill.

https://www.screwfix.com/prods/55600...2V-Combi-Drill

I use Quicksilver with wall plugs & Turbo Gold on wood. Turbo Golds
are brilliant - fast driving, no pilot, work right up to the edge
without splitting.

Thanks. I'll look into the turbo gold. Splitting can be tricky near
the edge. How do Turbo gold avoid that?


Just the design I guess, but they do what they say on the tin.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

screws and screwdrivers
 

On Dec 20, 9:04 am, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:38:23 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
I use Quicksilver with wall plugs & Turbo Gold on wood. Turbo Golds are
brilliant - fast driving, no pilot, work right up to the edge without
splitting.

Thanks. I'll look into the turbo gold. Splitting can be tricky near
the edge. How do Turbo gold avoid that?

I think it's because the core of the screw is much thinner than in a
traditional wood screw - in other words, there's less metal pushing
the wood out.

Of course it's not perfect. If you try and drive a 4mm screw at 2mm
from the edge, it will split ... but you can get a LOT closer than
with an old-style screw.