Does anybody happen to know whether there is any special procedure or
material required to fit laminated glass in a wooden frame?

I thinki that I read somewhere that a special putty is needed but
can't find details.

Also, is there a specific amount by which the glass should be smaller
than the frame in this case?




..andy

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I use glazing mastic and wood beading,very little mastic required.

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 22:55:21 +0000 (UTC), "Alex"
wrote:

I use glazing mastic and wood beading,very little mastic required.


Thanks Alex.

Can you suggest a glazing mastic product and supplier?

..andy

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There are many brands of glazing compound suitable for laminated glass
You could try the local BP petrol filling station, chemist, pet shop or
similar but I doubt if any of the above would stock it.
Of course you could always try your local glass merchants as a last resort

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
Does anybody happen to know whether there is any special procedure or
material required to fit laminated glass in a wooden frame?

I thinki that I read somewhere that a special putty is needed but
can't find details.

Also, is there a specific amount by which the glass should be smaller
than the frame in this case?

I would imagine its a similar process to installing DG units into wooden
frames.
i.e you lay a bed of flexistrip along the rebates and then put the glass
into the frame with packing strips around to keep the edges of the glass
away from the wood. You then fill the gaps with low modulus silicone and
finally some wooden beading to hold it all together.

You would want the glass to be a few mm smaller all round than the frame to
allow for expansion.

Your local glazing shop will have all the bits you need to install the
glass.

John

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 10:55:27 +0100, "john" wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
Does anybody happen to know whether there is any special procedure or
material required to fit laminated glass in a wooden frame?

I thinki that I read somewhere that a special putty is needed but
can't find details.

Also, is there a specific amount by which the glass should be smaller
than the frame in this case?

I would imagine its a similar process to installing DG units into wooden
frames.
i.e you lay a bed of flexistrip along the rebates and then put the glass
into the frame with packing strips around to keep the edges of the glass
away from the wood. You then fill the gaps with low modulus silicone and
finally some wooden beading to hold it all together.

You would want the glass to be a few mm smaller all round than the frame to
allow for expansion.

Your local glazing shop will have all the bits you need to install the
glass.

John



Thanks John.

I did call one this morning and they said pretty much the same, and
suggested leaving something like 5mm total in each direction for
expansion - i.e. about 2-3mm gap all round between glass and wood.




..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 10:55:27 +0100, "john" wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
. ..
Does anybody happen to know whether there is any special procedure or
material required to fit laminated glass in a wooden frame?

I thinki that I read somewhere that a special putty is needed but
can't find details.

Also, is there a specific amount by which the glass should be smaller
than the frame in this case?

I would imagine its a similar process to installing DG units into wooden
frames.
i.e you lay a bed of flexistrip along the rebates and then put the glass
into the frame with packing strips around to keep the edges of the glass
away from the wood. You then fill the gaps with low modulus silicone and
finally some wooden beading to hold it all together.

You would want the glass to be a few mm smaller all round than the frame to
allow for expansion.

Your local glazing shop will have all the bits you need to install the
glass.

John



Thanks John.

I did call one this morning and they said pretty much the same, and
suggested leaving something like 5mm total in each direction for
expansion - i.e. about 2-3mm gap all round between glass and wood.

I used security glazing tape for mine Andy, plus wooden beads on the
outside, gaps as you describe. The tape was 1 or 2mm foam with super
sticky adhesive on both sides from a local glazing supplies co. Mine was a
security app tho.
--
fred

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:33:41 GMT, fred wrote:




I used security glazing tape for mine Andy, plus wooden beads on the
outside, gaps as you describe. The tape was 1 or 2mm foam with super
sticky adhesive on both sides from a local glazing supplies co. Mine was a
security app tho.


Thanks Fred.

My application is also a security one. I'm probably going to use
8.8mm glass for this particular job.

Where does the tape actually fit? Is it stuck to the edges of the
rebate of the frame such that it's in contact with the edges of the
glass, or to the face of the rebate and therefore in contact with the
surface of the glass near the edges? If the latter, is some used on
each side of the glass?

What does the tape actually achieve?

thanks



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:33:41 GMT, fred wrote:

I used security glazing tape for mine Andy, plus wooden beads on the
outside, gaps as you describe. The tape was 1 or 2mm foam with super
sticky adhesive on both sides from a local glazing supplies co. Mine was a
security app tho.


Thanks Fred.

My application is also a security one. I'm probably going to use
8.8mm glass for this particular job.

Where does the tape actually fit? Is it stuck to the edges of the
rebate of the frame such that it's in contact with the edges of the
glass, or to the face of the rebate and therefore in contact with the
surface of the glass near the edges? If the latter, is some used on
each side of the glass?
The latter, and I only fitted it to the rebate side, although if you fitted it to
the beads as well I would imagine it would give extra resistance to the
edges of the laminated glass pulling out under repeated heavy blows or
kicking.

What does the tape actually achieve?
I have used it twice, once on DG units to avoid casual removal of the units
when the beads were removed and then on laminate to make glazing in
some storm doors more resistant to kicking in. It is reputed that when
fitted with tape it is impossible to remove the glass from the outside
without breaking it . Removal in case of breakage is from the inside by
cutting the foam layer, much as windscreen fitters do.

The rebate must be scrupulously clean of course.

HTH
--
fred

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 20:05:15 GMT, fred wrote:


I have used it twice, once on DG units to avoid casual removal of the units
when the beads were removed and then on laminate to make glazing in
some storm doors more resistant to kicking in. It is reputed that when
fitted with tape it is impossible to remove the glass from the outside
without breaking it . Removal in case of breakage is from the inside by
cutting the foam layer, much as windscreen fitters do.

The rebate must be scrupulously clean of course.

HTH

Yes it does, thanks.

Do you think that the rebate should be left as bare wood or primed?



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 20:05:15 GMT, fred wrote:


I have used it twice, once on DG units to avoid casual removal of the units
when the beads were removed and then on laminate to make glazing in
some storm doors more resistant to kicking in. It is reputed that when
fitted with tape it is impossible to remove the glass from the outside
without breaking it . Removal in case of breakage is from the inside by
cutting the foam layer, much as windscreen fitters do.

The rebate must be scrupulously clean of course.

HTH

Yes it does, thanks.

Do you think that the rebate should be left as bare wood or primed?

I didn't want to have the bond between the primer and the wood in the loop,
so placed it on the bare wood. I suppose the ultimate would be a bond to
metal but I stopped (just) short of lining the rebate with 3mm Alu & using
Alu angle as the glazing bead ;-)
--
fred

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:49:42 GMT, fred wrote:

In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 20:05:15 GMT, fred wrote:


I have used it twice, once on DG units to avoid casual removal of the units
when the beads were removed and then on laminate to make glazing in
some storm doors more resistant to kicking in. It is reputed that when
fitted with tape it is impossible to remove the glass from the outside
without breaking it . Removal in case of breakage is from the inside by
cutting the foam layer, much as windscreen fitters do.

The rebate must be scrupulously clean of course.

HTH

Yes it does, thanks.

Do you think that the rebate should be left as bare wood or primed?

I didn't want to have the bond between the primer and the wood in the loop,
so placed it on the bare wood. I suppose the ultimate would be a bond to
metal but I stopped (just) short of lining the rebate with 3mm Alu & using
Alu angle as the glazing bead ;-)


Thanks Fred

This all makes good sense.


..andy

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