How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

This is hopefully a simple one

I may have to replace some woodwork over a window which has lead flashing
folded over it at the top

The lead flashing is set into the mortar between courses of bricks and folds
down by around 3" vertically over the wood.

So my question is :-

How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it is
inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and fixed in
place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.

I'm planning on removing the old stuff and then angle grinding the joint to
open it up to fit new - Would this be a typical way of doing it?

Any advice on this or recommended materials would be appreciated.

Thanks

R

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

In article ,
Cubik wrote:
How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it
is inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and
fixed in place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.

More usually by about an inch, and jammed in place at intervals by scraps
of folded lead. Then simply pointed over. You need to make sure it can't
move until the mortar sets.

--
*You can't have everything, where would you put it?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

I saw a really good builder doing this a few years ago. He just raked out
the pointing to a good depth, using a power drill. Then he replaced the
lead, and it seemed to just stay put until he had pointed it in. Work of
art.

HTH

Geoff




"Cubik" wrote in message
...
This is hopefully a simple one

I may have to replace some woodwork over a window which has lead flashing
folded over it at the top

The lead flashing is set into the mortar between courses of bricks and
folds
down by around 3" vertically over the wood.

So my question is :-

How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it is
inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and fixed
in
place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.

I'm planning on removing the old stuff and then angle grinding the joint
to
open it up to fit new - Would this be a typical way of doing it?

Any advice on this or recommended materials would be appreciated.

Thanks

R

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

Is this adhesive any good for fixing lead flashings in?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=15161


Thanks for any more advice

R

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

"Cubik" wrote in message
...
This is hopefully a simple one

I may have to replace some woodwork over a window which has lead flashing
folded over it at the top

The lead flashing is set into the mortar between courses of bricks and
folds
down by around 3" vertically over the wood.

So my question is :-

How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it is
inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and fixed
in
place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.

I'm planning on removing the old stuff and then angle grinding the joint
to
open it up to fit new - Would this be a typical way of doing it?

Any advice on this or recommended materials would be appreciated.

Thanks

R



Remove the mortar with a plugging chisel or a rotary rake in a drill.

A lip, minimum of 25mm, should be should be inserted into the cleaned out
joint.

The usual method of holding flashing in place is to cut some lead strips
25mm wide. Roll/fold these over to make lead wedges and drive these into the
joint using the plugging chisel. Then re-point the joint, or use Lead Mate

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

In article ,
"BillP" writes:

Remove the mortar with a plugging chisel or a rotary rake in a drill.

A lip, minimum of 25mm, should be should be inserted into the cleaned out
joint.

The usual method of holding flashing in place is to cut some lead strips
25mm wide. Roll/fold these over to make lead wedges and drive these into the
joint using the plugging chisel. Then re-point the joint, or use Lead Mate

In my 1900 house, tiny wooden wedges were used which I found just
under the surface of the pointing when racking out. When I repointed
and redressed the lead into the brickwork, I used the same wedges,
which hadn't gone the least bit rotten.

--
Andrew Gabriel

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

"Cubik" wrote in message ...
This is hopefully a simple one

I may have to replace some woodwork over a window which has lead flashing
folded over it at the top

The lead flashing is set into the mortar between courses of bricks and folds
down by around 3" vertically over the wood.

So my question is :-

How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it is
inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and fixed in
place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.

I'm planning on removing the old stuff and then angle grinding the joint to
open it up to fit new - Would this be a typical way of doing it?

Any advice on this or recommended materials would be appreciated.

Thanks

R

The normal way to hold the lead into the groove in the morter is to
make some small wedges from the offcuts of the lead and use these to
pin the lead in to the brick work. Just use the wegdes on the
underside of the lead and them fold the lead over and it hides the
wedges.I have heard that you can get some sort of glue ( lead mate?)
but ive always used the method above
I found that using a plugging chisel is just as quick as an angle
grinder and much less mess.
Another tip is use platination oil on the lead as this prevents the
lead discolouring and staining the brick work / window.
hope this helps
Rob

How to fit lead flashing into brickwork?
 

In article ,
rob w wrote:
Just use the wegdes on the
underside of the lead and them fold the lead over and it hides the
wedges.

This might work with a straight run, but I'd say it near impossible with
stepped flashing. The wedges should be driven in far enough for the mortar
to cover anyway.

I'd recommend that when starting doing this sort of work you fashion up
the entire length on the workbench or at least on the ground, as trying to
do it in situ given that this is normally a roof isn't ideal - at least
for the likes of me.

--
*Plagiarism saves time *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn