Dot n' Dab on old/poor walls
 

Is dot and dab now the most popular method of covering a wall?

Half of our 19th century town house is currently stripped down to the
brickwork which is very poor. The plaster wants to dot and dab
everywhere.

We have damp & contaminated walls(salts) in the kitchen. I've
installed a resin DPC, neatralized the salts and plan to use a
waterproof plaster membrane on the lower 1.5 metre of the walls to
make sure whatever finish is used the damp will not penetrate to the
surface.

I have no experience of dot and dab really, but the plasterer(very
experienced) seemed to recommend. Any other options with old tatty/
uneven brickwork?.....

and any other advice?

Dot n' Dab on old/poor walls
 

" wrote in message
oups.com...
Is dot and dab now the most popular method of covering a wall?

Half of our 19th century town house is currently stripped down to the
brickwork which is very poor. The plaster wants to dot and dab
everywhere.

We have damp & contaminated walls(salts) in the kitchen. I've
installed a resin DPC, neatralized the salts and plan to use a
waterproof plaster membrane on the lower 1.5 metre of the walls to
make sure whatever finish is used the damp will not penetrate to the
surface.

I have no experience of dot and dab really, but the plasterer(very
experienced) seemed to recommend. Any other options with old tatty/
uneven brickwork?.....

and any other advice?


Nothing wrong with Dot&Dab however I wouldn't have it in my kitchen though
as its a bugger to hang the units on the wall. :-)
If you're opposing the D&D method then you have the right to tell the
plasterer you want the traditional method of backing plaster,after all your
paying for it.

Dot n' Dab on old/poor walls
 

In article .com,
" writes:
Is dot and dab now the most popular method of covering a wall?

Yes, because it's thought to be less skilled.

Half of our 19th century town house is currently stripped down to the
brickwork which is very poor.

Brickwork which was intended to be plastered often is.
That's where the 'B' grade bricks got used, and the
appentice brickie did his practice work.

The plaster wants to dot and dab everywhere.

We have damp & contaminated walls(salts) in the kitchen. I've
installed a resin DPC, neatralized the salts and plan to use a
waterproof plaster membrane on the lower 1.5 metre of the walls to
make sure whatever finish is used the damp will not penetrate to the
surface.

I have no experience of dot and dab really, but the plasterer(very
experienced) seemed to recommend. Any other options with old tatty/
uneven brickwork?.....

Standard scratch coat (use sand and cement and waterproofer
if the wall is likely to stay damp), and standard finish coat.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Dot n' Dab on old/poor walls
 

On Sep 30, 10:28 am, "George" wrote:
" wrote in message

oups.com...



Is dot and dab now the most popular method of covering a wall?

Half of our 19th century town house is currently stripped down to the
brickwork which is very poor. The plaster wants to dot and dab
everywhere.

We have damp & contaminated walls(salts) in the kitchen. I've
installed a resin DPC, neatralized the salts and plan to use a
waterproof plaster membrane on the lower 1.5 metre of the walls to
make sure whatever finish is used the damp will not penetrate to the
surface.

I have no experience of dot and dab really, but the plasterer(very
experienced) seemed to recommend. Any other options with old tatty/
uneven brickwork?.....

and any other advice?

Nothing wrong with Dot&Dab however I wouldn't have it in my kitchen though
as its a bugger to hang the units on the wall. :-)
If you're opposing the D&D method then you have the right to tell the
plasterer you want the traditional method of backing plaster,after all your
paying for it.

No it isn't.

You are suposed to run a strip of bonding all along the joints to stop
the wall becoming a smoke and fire conduit. Work out where the wall
unit fixings are going to be. The bottom of the wall unit is going to
be some 18 inches or three tiles above the work-top. So two suitably
placed strips along those heights are going to be all you need take
care of.

After that, all you need is the normal screws and plastic plugs.
Failing that you just use a 2 x 1 behind the units fixed with mastic
bonding or silicon. The 2 x 1 will take the weight and spread it
around the board.

(Clear silicon is as adhesive as no-nails/gripfill and can be removed
with the least problem if it is in the wrong place. Coloured silicon
shouldn't be used.)

Dot n' Dab on old/poor walls
 

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
" writes:
Is dot and dab now the most popular method of covering a wall?

Yes, because it's thought to be less skilled.

Half of our 19th century town house is currently stripped down to the
brickwork which is very poor.

Brickwork which was intended to be plastered often is.
That's where the 'B' grade bricks got used, and the
appentice brickie did his practice work.

The plaster wants to dot and dab everywhere.

We have damp & contaminated walls(salts) in the kitchen. I've
installed a resin DPC, neatralized the salts and plan to use a
waterproof plaster membrane on the lower 1.5 metre of the walls to
make sure whatever finish is used the damp will not penetrate to the
surface.

I have no experience of dot and dab really, but the plasterer(very
experienced) seemed to recommend. Any other options with old tatty/
uneven brickwork?.....

Standard scratch coat (use sand and cement and waterproofer
if the wall is likely to stay damp), and standard finish coat.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

You do it your way and I'll have the piece of mind my cupboards will stay
up. :-P