wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 25, 11:13 am, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"mike" wrote in message

...

In article ews.net,
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

But they are expensive and for the same cost the OP could get a
basic
wet
'designer' radiator. Expense is the main reason he is looking for an
alternative solution.

He has little space, and will the radiator
be man enough to heat the place.
I would go for a plinth heater. Well worth it.

Doesn't a plinth heater have the effect
of heating the contents of the cupboard above it?

Not if it has a zone valve controlling it. Then if piped up right, only
the
plinth heater can be on and the rest of the house off. The kitchen will
be
a CH zone in itself. They can also have wall stats to sense the room
temperature far better reducing heating bills and improving comfort
conditions. They also blow heat at foot level across the floor, which is
superb on cold mornings. The are only noisy on the full fan speeds.

What has any of that got to do with heat escaping into the cupboard
above?

If no zone valve, a thin sheet of insulation under the cupboard will
prevent
much of the heat, heating above.

That's better. You see, you can do it when you try.

So, can you when you read properly.

On Sep 26, 5:21 pm, wrote:
On 26 Sep,
" wrote:

What has any of that got to do with heat escaping into the cupboard
above?

I have no problems with that. the cold air keeps the undercupboard space
ventilated and the warm air exits to the front. The pipes are lagged which
leaves little opportunity for excess heat escaping to the cupboards.


That's true regardless of whether the room is on a seperate zone.

MBQ

On Sep 26, 4:58 pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On Sep 24, 3:46 pm, mike wrote:
In article ews.net,
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

Where is it to be fitted? Kitchen?

Yeah, kitchen-diner and there really is very little wall-space - no more
than 60cm which also has to accomodate a light switch. So the 30cm
rad-on-end would be ideal and would fill the otherwise useless bit of
wall.

I looked at towel rads but they don't go that thin or as tall as the 300
x 1400 standard rad at Screwfix.

I searched the group kickspace heaters but several people said they
were noisy and/or inefficient.

I considered the ordinary short rads linked via chrome pipe but I'd need
three above each other to get the BTUs which I think could start to look
a little odd.

Why not use two normal rads, one in front of the other? You'll need to
make some kind of brackets for the front one.

...or have them haging from the ceiling with mod-art all over them.

Warm air rises, they need to be on the floor. Perhaps we should hang
you from the ceiling as mod art. Then we wouldn't notice the hot air
so much.

MBQ

mike wrote:
In article .com,
wrote:

I might just have got it. Why not make a rad from pipes like the
first rads were done? They had a row of many vertical pipes, plumbed
together along the top to the outlet at one end, and plumbed together
along the bottom to the inlet pipe. Simple, characterful, and dust
gathering, but a duster should clean it up pretty quickly.
NT

I had considered this... and what stopped me was the thought of the
monster I might inadvertantly create...

Hopefully all you'd be doing is soldering, not using the high
voltage machine.

There are pics of early rads online if you want to see what they look
like. Try
http://www.hevac-heritage.org/site_map/site_map.htm


NT

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 26, 4:58 pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On Sep 24, 3:46 pm, mike wrote:
In article ews.net,
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

Where is it to be fitted? Kitchen?

Yeah, kitchen-diner and there really is very little wall-space - no
more
than 60cm which also has to accomodate a light switch. So the 30cm
rad-on-end would be ideal and would fill the otherwise useless bit of
wall.

I looked at towel rads but they don't go that thin or as tall as the
300
x 1400 standard rad at Screwfix.

I searched the group kickspace heaters but several people said
they
were noisy and/or inefficient.

I considered the ordinary short rads linked via chrome pipe but I'd
need
three above each other to get the BTUs which I think could start to
look
a little odd.

Why not use two normal rads, one in front of the other? You'll need to
make some kind of brackets for the front one.

...or have them haging from the ceiling with mod-art all over them.

Warm air rises, they need to be on the floor. Perhaps we should hang
you from the ceiling as mod art. Then we wouldn't notice the hot air
so much.

The hot air will be at the top as you said, so you will not notice it
anyhow.

replying to mike, KD1 wrote:
You could use TBOE connections just like the old days. Should work perfectly.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...le-424538-.htm

On Friday, 31 July 2020 17:14:03 UTC+1, KD1 wrote:
replying to mike, KD1 wrote:
You could use TBOE connections just like the old days. Should work perfectly.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...le-424538-.htm

I think you are actually replying to the "old days". Almost thirteen years old.