Jenolite?
 

Do they still make this stuff?

None of the car accessory shops in town have any in, and rustsolutions
website say they are still waiting for the manufacturers to re-supply them.

Is it still available? Only place that seems to have any are a few Ebay
sellers.

--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor

Jenolite?
 

Dark Angel wrote:
Do they still make this stuff?

None of the car accessory shops in town have any in, and rustsolutions
website say they are still waiting for the manufacturers to re-supply them.

Is it still available? Only place that seems to have any are a few Ebay
sellers.


The local independent shop had some t'other day, but the owner did say
that he'd had a bit of a run around to locate any wholesalers that had
stock.

Lee

--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.

Jenolite?
 

In article ,
Dark Angel wrote:
Do they still make this stuff?

None of the car accessory shops in town have any in, and rustsolutions
website say they are still waiting for the manufacturers to re-supply
them.

Is it still available? Only place that seems to have any are a few Ebay
sellers.

IIRC they got taken over by Hammerite and that name is now on essentially
the same products.

--
*When cheese gets it's picture taken, what does it say?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Jenolite?
 

On 16 Sep, 14:29, "Dark Angel"
wrote:

None of the car accessory shops in town have any in, and rustsolutions
website say they are still waiting for the manufacturers to re-supply them.

Is it still available? Only place that seems to have any are a few Ebay
sellers.

I've shifted to POR 15 Metal Ready of late. It's much nicer to use
than Jenolite and it seems to work very well.

Ian

Jenolite?
 

I don't think it had anything much in it other than orthophosphoric acid.
Maybe a bit of wetting agent (washing up liquid?).

Jenolite?
 

On 16 Sep, 21:07, "Newshound" wrote:
I don't think it had anything much in it other than orthophosphoric acid.
Maybe a bit of wetting agent (washing up liquid?).

Maybe celluose too. Jenolite was also available as a gel.

Your best options are to avoid it as a low-end over-priced retail
grade version of a common product. If you need a lot cheaply, find a
hydroponics shop and just buy some conc. phosphoric acid. If you want
the best performance, go to any engineering supplier and buy the
equivalent product (Loctite do a good one). This is an opaque white
liquid, as it also contains tannins.

Jenolite?
 

On Sep 16, 2:29 pm, "Dark Angel"
wrote:
Do they still make this stuff?

None of the car accessory shops in town have any in, and rustsolutions
website say they are still waiting for the manufacturers to re-supply them.

Is it still available? Only place that seems to have any are a few Ebay
sellers.

--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor

Hi,

Have a look at 'Vactan' can be found on Ebay too.

I think it has some sort of acrylic resin in it as well as a rust
converter, so it's self finishing/self priming to some extent.

cheers,
Pete.

Jenolite?
 

"Pete C" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

Have a look at 'Vactan' can be found on Ebay too.

I think it has some sort of acrylic resin in it as well as a rust
converter, so it's self finishing/self priming to some extent.

cheers,
Pete.


I have used Vactan and found it to be ideal and it appears to be better than
Jenolite as I often found rust came through once it was washed down and
painted. I paid £6.95 per 500ml for the Vactan and it is easily applied,
dries quickly ( 10 mins on a dry and warm day to form a self priming skin
that does not require washing off etc. I have used it on cars, had-rails
and the other weekend in the inside of our old and well pitted cast iron
gutters. I intend not to paint the inside of the gutters with a top coat
just to see how the product holds up over time given we live right on the
coast.

Gio

Jenolite?
 

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message...
If you want
the best performance, go to any engineering supplier and buy the
equivalent product (Loctite do a good one). This is an opaque white
liquid, as it also contains tannins.

Sounds a bit like Kurust, and I've never got on well with that. Rusts back
thriugh in next to no time.


--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor

Jenolite?
 

"Pete C" wrote in message...
Have a look at 'Vactan' can be found on Ebay too.

This isn't just "Kurust" under another name is it? Never got on well with
that stuff, very poor, rusted back through in next to no time.

If I give this stuff a try, what primer would you recommend to go with it,
or would top coat be sufficient?

I've always used Jenolite to get rid of the rust, then Zinc182 primer to
slow down its return. I assume Zinc182 primer wouldn't make much difference
on this stuff as its already a curer and primer?


--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor

Jenolite?
 

"Dark Angel" wrote in message
...

"Pete C" wrote in message...
Have a look at 'Vactan' can be found on Ebay too.

This isn't just "Kurust" under another name is it? Never got on well with
that stuff, very poor, rusted back through in next to no time.

If I give this stuff a try, what primer would you recommend to go with it,
or would top coat be sufficient?

I've always used Jenolite to get rid of the rust, then Zinc182 primer to
slow down its return. I assume Zinc182 primer wouldn't make much
difference on this stuff as its already a curer and primer?


--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor


Kurust is something I have not tried for years, in fact it must have been
back in 1982 or so with my old Fiat 127. No doubt it has changed a bit
since then :-)

With Vactan the surface is left with a hard vinyl like finish. When it is
initially painted on it is cream in colour after a brief period it starts to
change to a light green colour where it is in contact with metal. It then
changes to a dark brown / black colour as the chemical process takes place.
When dry and it does dry quickly in favourable conditions the surface can
be painted soon after. I tend to keep pouring small quantities from the
main stock bottle into an old mug and apply from that so as not to
contaminate the stock solution. When any drips dry on the sides of the
pottery mug, with it not chemically bonding to the surface of steel you can
peal the dried Vactan off the mug like a PVA skin.
see http://www.performance-chemicals.net/docs/vac8.jpg for typical details
or http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/pdfs/vactan.pdf

I have no business interests just used the stuff and found it good,
relatively non toxic and easy to apply. -The us navy stipulate its use on
their subs while at sea because I gather no other product can be used so it
cannot be too bad.

Gio