Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.I'am pretty sure the system wll need to be power
flushed as its over 26 years old.
Thank you.

On 2007-04-28 10:07:59 +0100, said:

Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.I'am pretty sure the system wll need to be power
flushed as its over 26 years old.
Thank you.

It isn't possible to determine the size of boiler required from the
number of radiators. They can be small ones of a few hundred watts
up to large panel ones of several kW.

Having said that, you can oversize a boiler quite happily within
reason, because they automatically modulate down to the required output.

The risk comes in undersizing. Assuming that the house has been
heated adequately in the past, you can make a reasonable estimate. Go
round and measure each radiator and not whether it is single or double
panel and with/without fins. Then look at data sheets on radiator
manufacturer web sites for similar products. You can get a good
approximation by size and use the heat output figures. Then add them
up and allow perhaps 10% more.

The more important point becomes provisioning of hot water. If all
of the system is of this age, then it would make sense to replace the
HW cylinder as well and to use a fast recovery type. These are able
to accept 25kW or more, thus providing a fast re-heat.

Alternatively, if you feel that you would rather dispense with the
cylinder and go for a combi, it would make sense to go for a high
power one - e.g. 38kW. However, checks into water supply flow and
gas provisioning are then needed. A 19kW combi is going to be very
disappointing for filling a bath in anything less than geological time
in the winter. In general, pipe re-runs may well need to be done in
order to get sensible flow of hot water to the right places and to
reduce the effect of turning on a tap in one place affecting another.
A combi *can* be OK if requirements are modest and an adequate one
fitted, but if you are used to the flow and filling time from a
cylinder, it will be difficult to match it. Either way, not something
to be undertaken without careful checking.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.

A combi can be an economical replacement for a storage hot water system but
there are downsides on hot water. One that has not been mentioned is that a
boiler breakdown results in complete loss of hot water as well as heating -
no immerser backup. If you are used to a well designed storage system I
would put the slow hot water delivery problem differently. Yes baths are
slow to fill but they do get there eventually. Just needs planning and the
flow won't trouble the overflow. A much bigger problem IMHO is that the hot
water takes a long time to arrive at a basin distant from the boiler. Since
the boiler is probably diffrently located than the existing cylinder and
probably futher away the difference can be very annoying. Watch out for
existing 22mm pipework being reused as that makes that problem particularly
noticeable.

Jim A

On Apr 28, 10:22 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-28 10:07:59 +0100, said:

Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.I'am pretty sure the system wll need to be power
flushed as its over 26 years old.
Thank you.

It isn't possible to determine the size of boiler required from the
number of radiators. They can be small ones of a few hundred watts
up to large panel ones of several kW.

Having said that, you can oversize a boiler quite happily within
reason, because they automatically modulate down to the required output.

The risk comes in undersizing. Assuming that the house has been
heated adequately in the past, you can make a reasonable estimate. Go
round and measure each radiator and not whether it is single or double
panel and with/without fins. Then look at data sheets on radiator
manufacturer web sites for similar products. You can get a good
approximation by size and use the heat output figures. Then add them
up and allow perhaps 10% more.

The more important point becomes provisioning of hot water. If all
of the system is of this age, then it would make sense to replace the
HW cylinder as well and to use a fast recovery type. These are able
to accept 25kW or more, thus providing a fast re-heat.

Alternatively, if you feel that you would rather dispense with the
cylinder and go for a combi, it would make sense to go for a high
power one - e.g. 38kW. However, checks into water supply flow and
gas provisioning are then needed. A 19kW combi is going to be very
disappointing for filling a bath in anything less than geological time
in the winter. In general, pipe re-runs may well need to be done in
order to get sensible flow of hot water to the right places and to
reduce the effect of turning on a tap in one place affecting another.
A combi *can* be OK if requirements are modest and an adequate one
fitted, but if you are used to the flow and filling time from a
cylinder, it will be difficult to match it. Either way, not something
to be undertaken without careful checking.
No Andy I meant 19kw ch output

On Apr 28, 11:07 am, "Jim Alexander" wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...

Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.

A combi can be an economical replacement for a storage hot water system but
there are downsides on hot water. One that has not been mentioned is that a
boiler breakdown results in complete loss of hot water as well as heating -
no immerser backup. If you are used to a well designed storage system I
would put the slow hot water delivery problem differently. Yes baths are
slow to fill but they do get there eventually. Just needs planning and the
flow won't trouble the overflow. A much bigger problem IMHO is that the hot
water takes a long time to arrive at a basin distant from the boiler. Since
the boiler is probably diffrently located than the existing cylinder and
probably futher away the difference can be very annoying. Watch out for
existing 22mm pipework being reused as that makes that problem particularly
noticeable.

Jim A

The cylinder is in the bathroom cupboard we are getting a combi so the
combi will go were the cylinder was i.e in the bathroom cupboard

On 2007-04-28 12:36:29 +0100, said:

On Apr 28, 10:22 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-28 10:07:59 +0100, said:

Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.I'am pretty sure the system wll need to be power
flushed as its over 26 years old.
Thank you.

It isn't possible to determine the size of boiler required from the
number of radiators. They can be small ones of a few hundred watts
up to large panel ones of several kW.

Having said that, you can oversize a boiler quite happily within
reason, because they automatically modulate down to the required output.

The risk comes in undersizing. Assuming that the house has been
heated adequately in the past, you can make a reasonable estimate. Go
round and measure each radiator and not whether it is single or double
panel and with/without fins. Then look at data sheets on radiator
manufacturer web sites for similar products. You can get a good
approximation by size and use the heat output figures. Then add them
up and allow perhaps 10% more.

The more important point becomes provisioning of hot water. If all
of the system is of this age, then it would make sense to replace the
HW cylinder as well and to use a fast recovery type. These are able
to accept 25kW or more, thus providing a fast re-heat.

Alternatively, if you feel that you would rather dispense with the
cylinder and go for a combi, it would make sense to go for a high
power one - e.g. 38kW. However, checks into water supply flow and
gas provisioning are then needed. A 19kW combi is going to be very
disappointing for filling a bath in anything less than geological time
in the winter. In general, pipe re-runs may well need to be done in
order to get sensible flow of hot water to the right places and to
reduce the effect of turning on a tap in one place affecting another.
A combi *can* be OK if requirements are modest and an adequate one
fitted, but if you are used to the flow and filling time from a
cylinder, it will be difficult to match it. Either way, not something
to be undertaken without careful checking.
No Andy I meant 19kw ch output

Then you may need to do the sums on what is needed.

What is the output of the existing boiler? If the heating is currently
adequate and there is no short cycling of the boiler (which would
indicate it's over powered for the application) then all you need to do
is to match or exceed it.

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
.uk...

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.

A combi can be an economical replacement for a storage hot water system
but there are downsides on hot water. One that has not been mentioned is
that a boiler breakdown results in complete loss of hot water as well as
heating - no immerser backup. If you are used to a well designed storage
system I would put the slow hot water delivery problem differently. Yes
baths are slow to fill but they do get there eventually. Just needs
planning and the flow won't trouble the overflow. A much bigger problem
IMHO is that the hot water takes a long time to arrive at a basin distant
from the boiler. Since the boiler is probably diffrently located than the
existing cylinder and probably futher away the difference can be very
annoying.


Watch out for existing 22mm pipework being reused as that makes that
problem particularly noticeable.

It certainly does make a big difference. I changed my parents hot water from
22 to 15mm pipework and it takes 9 seconds less for the hot water to come
through to the bathroom.

Adam

On Apr 28, 1:04 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-28 12:36:29 +0100, said:





On Apr 28, 10:22 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-28 10:07:59 +0100, said:

Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.I'am pretty sure the system wll need to be power
flushed as its over 26 years old.
Thank you.

It isn't possible to determine the size of boiler required from the
number of radiators. They can be small ones of a few hundred watts
up to large panel ones of several kW.

Having said that, you can oversize a boiler quite happily within
reason, because they automatically modulate down to the required output.

The risk comes in undersizing. Assuming that the house has been
heated adequately in the past, you can make a reasonable estimate. Go
round and measure each radiator and not whether it is single or double
panel and with/without fins. Then look at data sheets on radiator
manufacturer web sites for similar products. You can get a good
approximation by size and use the heat output figures. Then add them
up and allow perhaps 10% more.

The more important point becomes provisioning of hot water. If all
of the system is of this age, then it would make sense to replace the
HW cylinder as well and to use a fast recovery type. These are able
to accept 25kW or more, thus providing a fast re-heat.

Alternatively, if you feel that you would rather dispense with the
cylinder and go for a combi, it would make sense to go for a high
power one - e.g. 38kW. However, checks into water supply flow and
gas provisioning are then needed. A 19kW combi is going to be very
disappointing for filling a bath in anything less than geological time
in the winter. In general, pipe re-runs may well need to be done in
order to get sensible flow of hot water to the right places and to
reduce the effect of turning on a tap in one place affecting another.
A combi *can* be OK if requirements are modest and an adequate one
fitted, but if you are used to the flow and filling time from a
cylinder, it will be difficult to match it. Either way, not something
to be undertaken without careful checking.
No Andy I meant 19kw ch output

Then you may need to do the sums on what is needed.

What is the output of the existing boiler? If the heating is currently
adequate and there is no short cycling of the boiler (which would
indicate it's over powered for the application) then all you need to do
is to match or exceed it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When we bought our house about 20 years ago the boiler was already
there,they is a dial on the boiler going from 1 to 4 we use 3 and 4
this heats up our house to our liking but I have no idea of the
boilers power.
And about the boiler,shall I avoid it or shall I stick to it,my whole
family uses Vaillant and are very pleased with it,so is this eco-tec
combi good then?

On Apr 28, 10:17 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
"Jim Alexander" wrote in message

.uk...







wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.

A combi can be an economical replacement for a storage hot water system
but there are downsides on hot water. One that has not been mentioned is
that a boiler breakdown results in complete loss of hot water as well as
heating - no immerser backup. If you are used to a well designed storage
system I would put the slow hot water delivery problem differently. Yes
baths are slow to fill but they do get there eventually. Just needs
planning and the flow won't trouble the overflow. A much bigger problem
IMHO is that the hot water takes a long time to arrive at a basin distant
from the boiler. Since the boiler is probably diffrently located than the
existing cylinder and probably futher away the difference can be very
annoying.
Watch out for existing 22mm pipework being reused as that makes that
problem particularly noticeable.

It certainly does make a big difference. I changed my parents hot water from
22 to 15mm pipework and it takes 9 seconds less for the hot water to come
through to the bathroom.

Adam- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that,will I get a powerful shower with a combi?

On 2007-04-29 09:12:58 +0100, said:


When we bought our house about 20 years ago the boiler was already
there,they is a dial on the boiler going from 1 to 4 we use 3 and 4
this heats up our house to our liking but I have no idea of the
boilers power.

Two ways to get that.

- Look for a rating plate. The boiler is probably range rated though,
meaning it can be adjusted for a range of outputs by tweaking the
burner pressure.

- Run the boiler and time the meter - i.e. how much gas in 5 minutes
with nothing else on and boiler running continuously. Emptying the
HW cylinder and reheating it should achieve that.

If you look at a gas bill, you can work out what the relationship is
between gas volume and kW.h

From that, you can calculate the power input of the boiler in kW.
The output will be in the order of 65-70% of the input.



And about the boiler,shall I avoid it or shall I stick to it,my whole
family uses Vaillant and are very pleased with it,so is this eco-tec
combi good then?

On 2007-04-29 09:14:22 +0100, said:


Thanks for that,will I get a powerful shower with a combi?

At some times of the year, yes.

However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

All of this assumes that the mains supply can deliver this flow rate.

In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 2007-04-29 13:35:37 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:

In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)

Yebbut.....

If the water is at 5 degrees this can be true.

At 5 degrees, it's limited to the physics.

Of course it does depend on the shower head. One can get a shower
head with needle jets that will scarify the skin at 10lpm. Not
comfortable though.

On Apr 29, 5:27 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 13:35:37 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:





In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)

Yebbut.....

If the water is at 5 degrees this can be true.

At 5 degrees, it's limited to the physics.

Of course it does depend on the shower head. One can get a shower
head with needle jets that will scarify the skin at 10lpm. Not
comfortable though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The kw is 17.0kw this was on some plate in the boiler,now all I want
to know is will the Vaillant eco-tec be a good choice please tell me
if the vaillant should be avoided

On 2007-04-29 21:14:27 +0100, said:

On Apr 29, 5:27 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 13:35:37 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:





In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)

Yebbut.....

If the water is at 5 degrees this can be true.

At 5 degrees, it's limited to the physics.

Of course it does depend on the shower head. One can get a shower
head with needle jets that will scarify the skin at 10lpm. Not
comfortable though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The kw is 17.0kw this was on some plate in the boiler,now all I want
to know is will the Vaillant eco-tec be a good choice please tell me
if the vaillant should be avoided

If you look back through the archives of this group, you will find that
Vaillant, as a manufacturer, is helod in good esteem.

Really you have to check and decide on the model.

If you go for the 824 (max 19kW output to CH), the DHW flow rate is 9
litres per minute.
The 831 (max 24kW to CH) will do 12lpm
The 837 (max 28kW to CH) will do 15lpm

All of them are modulating and even the largest will go down to 12kW on
CH which is less than the 17kW you have now.

The decision is really about the DHW flow rate you want.

On Apr 29, 10:24 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 21:14:27 +0100, said:





On Apr 29, 5:27 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 13:35:37 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:

In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.

A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.

This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)

Yebbut.....

If the water is at 5 degrees this can be true.

At 5 degrees, it's limited to the physics.

Of course it does depend on the shower head. One can get a shower
head with needle jets that will scarify the skin at 10lpm. Not
comfortable though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The kw is 17.0kw this was on some plate in the boiler,now all I want
to know is will the Vaillant eco-tec be a good choice please tell me
if the vaillant should be avoided

If you look back through the archives of this group, you will find that
Vaillant, as a manufacturer, is helod in good esteem.

Really you have to check and decide on the model.

If you go for the 824 (max 19kW output to CH), the DHW flow rate is 9
litres per minute.
The 831 (max 24kW to CH) will do 12lpm
The 837 (max 28kW to CH) will do 15lpm

All of them are modulating and even the largest will go down to 12kW on
CH which is less than the 17kW you have now.

The decision is really about the DHW flow rate you want.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just called the plumber yesterday and was surprised by what he told
me.
He said it's not worth paying extra for the Vaillant when you could
get a Biasi or a cheaper one that does the same job,he told me that
even the cheapest condensing combis are reliable!
Is his advice right?

2.I was wondering if a glow-worm cxi will be good.

wrote:
On Apr 29, 10:24 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 21:14:27 +0100, said:





On Apr 29, 5:27 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 13:35:37 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:
In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
However, in the winter, the mains water is at 5 - 8 degrees. Shower
water temperature is 40 degrees. Combis are rated in terms of flow
rate for a 35 degree temperature rise. Therefore, the flow rate at
the shower will be that of the combi.
A 30kW combi will manage about 12 litres/min under these circumstances.
A worthwhile shower is at 15lpm and above, so a 38kW combi is really
needed to achieve that.
This puzzles me. I had a 30kW non-thermostatic multipoint.
It was too powerful for a shower. Turning the flow rate up
to get the water cool enough not to be painful resulted in
rather painful high pressure jets, and water squirting out
past all the O-ring seals. (It's been replaced by one with
some thermostatic control since then, which is also 30kW
and works brilliantly.)
Yebbut.....
If the water is at 5 degrees this can be true.
At 5 degrees, it's limited to the physics.
Of course it does depend on the shower head. One can get a shower
head with needle jets that will scarify the skin at 10lpm. Not
comfortable though.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
The kw is 17.0kw this was on some plate in the boiler,now all I want
to know is will the Vaillant eco-tec be a good choice please tell me
if the vaillant should be avoided
If you look back through the archives of this group, you will find that
Vaillant, as a manufacturer, is helod in good esteem.

Really you have to check and decide on the model.

If you go for the 824 (max 19kW output to CH), the DHW flow rate is 9
litres per minute.
The 831 (max 24kW to CH) will do 12lpm
The 837 (max 28kW to CH) will do 15lpm

All of them are modulating and even the largest will go down to 12kW on
CH which is less than the 17kW you have now.

The decision is really about the DHW flow rate you want.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just called the plumber yesterday and was surprised by what he told
me.
He said it's not worth paying extra for the Vaillant when you could
get a Biasi or a cheaper one that does the same job,he told me that
even the cheapest condensing combis are reliable!
Is his advice right?

2.I was wondering if a glow-worm cxi will be good.


I reckon your plumber is probably right. My Worcester has a big Bosch
label on the pump, but closer examination shows it's made by Grundfos
like all the rest. The heat exchanger *might* be superior but all the
other components look pretty generic to me.
Cheap boilers probably work as well as cheap cars.

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
.uk...

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,
I'am deciding on replacing a very old baxi boiler-it uses too much
gas.
I only have one bathroom and I will also replace rads aswell as the
old ones are begining to leak,I will need 11 radiators.For now I just
want to know if the Vaillant eco-tec combi will be a good choice or if
I should avoid it.And what model will I need,,the 19 kw one or the
more powerful type.

A combi can be an economical replacement for a storage hot water system
but there are downsides on hot water. One that has not been mentioned is
that a boiler breakdown results in complete loss of hot water as well as
heating - no immerser backup.

An in-line instant electric water heater can be fitted as backup. Enough
for a tap or two and a shower until up gain. Combis are so cheap you can fit
two of them. or zone up too which a cheap way to get high flows and back
and zoning. Cheap to run: You ca fit two Atmos Intercombis (the most
simple and reliable boilers on the market). One doing upstairs CH one down.
One doing one bathroom, one the other, combine the outlets for baths to give
a flowrate of 24 litres/min.