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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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front door threshold
Hi all.
I'm planning to replace the entire door frame/side light timbers in not too distant future. The frame that is in place now is probably the same one installed when the house was built about a hundred yeasrs ago, although the door was new circa 15 years or more ago. So if I'm going to replace the frame I should also replace the threshold timber. So 2 questions: Is it a simple job the remove and replace the threshold? .. And what kind of joint is it that locks the frame verticals to the threshold? Thanks. Arthur |
#2
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front door threshold
Arthur wrote:
Hi all. I'm planning to replace the entire door frame/side light timbers in not too distant future. The frame that is in place now is probably the same one installed when the house was built about a hundred yeasrs ago, although the door was new circa 15 years or more ago. So if I'm going to replace the frame I should also replace the threshold timber. So 2 questions: Is it a simple job the remove and replace the threshold? If you are renewing the 'entire' doorframe, then if there is a wooden sill (threshold) at the bottom, running the width of the frame, then this will be fitted to the bottom of the frame during the manufacturing process using motice and tenon joints. And what kind of joint is it that locks the frame verticals to the threshold? The stiles (verticals) will be fixed to the head and sill using simple 'through' haunched mortice and tenons (the haunch can be deleted on an inner stile) using water resistant glue and either wooden wedges into the tenons or 'star' nails hammered through the head and sill penetrating the sides of the tenons. Please be aware that if you are inexperienced at this sort of joinery, that various rebates are needed and 'drips' inserted to prevent 'water tracking' into the property - and I would advise that you firstly read a good joinery book (from the library) and then have a word with a timber merchant so that he can point you in the right direction as to the type of door framing to use. Brian G |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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front door threshold
"Brian G" wrote in message ... Arthur wrote: Hi all. I'm planning to replace the entire door frame/side light timbers in not too distant future. The frame that is in place now is probably the same one installed when the house was built about a hundred yeasrs ago, although the door was new circa 15 years or more ago. So if I'm going to replace the frame I should also replace the threshold timber. So 2 questions: Is it a simple job the remove and replace the threshold? If you are renewing the 'entire' doorframe, then if there is a wooden sill (threshold) at the bottom, running the width of the frame, then this will be fitted to the bottom of the frame during the manufacturing process using motice and tenon joints. And what kind of joint is it that locks the frame verticals to the threshold? The stiles (verticals) will be fixed to the head and sill using simple 'through' haunched mortice and tenons (the haunch can be deleted on an inner stile) using water resistant glue and either wooden wedges into the tenons or 'star' nails hammered through the head and sill penetrating the sides of the tenons. Please be aware that if you are inexperienced at this sort of joinery, that various rebates are needed and 'drips' inserted to prevent 'water tracking' into the property - and I would advise that you firstly read a good joinery book (from the library) and then have a word with a timber merchant so that he can point you in the right direction as to the type of door framing to use. Brian G Thanks, Brian. I hadn't thought of the upper framework and threshold as a unit. But it makes sense in terms of sizing for a door. I am looking to replace everything with first class timbers preferably oak if I can get the materials for affordable prices. Having said that, My front door is fully exposed to the elements and if I am advised to choose settle for just quality hard timber then I will..after all, its a mid terrace..not Balmoral. I've found a couple sales on ebay that are giving me some idea of the costs of materials involved. If you could give me your input on wether these represent good value sapele mahogany door casing timbers http://tinyurl.com/2n5vfo Oak timbers http://tinyurl.com/2h2m3m Thanks again. Arthur |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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front door threshold
Arthur wrote:
"Brian G" wrote in message ... Arthur wrote: Hi all. I'm planning to replace the entire door frame/side light timbers in not too distant future. The frame that is in place now is probably the same one installed when the house was built about a hundred yeasrs ago, although the door was new circa 15 years or more ago. So if I'm going to replace the frame I should also replace the threshold timber. So 2 questions: Is it a simple job the remove and replace the threshold? If you are renewing the 'entire' doorframe, then if there is a wooden sill (threshold) at the bottom, running the width of the frame, then this will be fitted to the bottom of the frame during the manufacturing process using motice and tenon joints. And what kind of joint is it that locks the frame verticals to the threshold? The stiles (verticals) will be fixed to the head and sill using simple 'through' haunched mortice and tenons (the haunch can be deleted on an inner stile) using water resistant glue and either wooden wedges into the tenons or 'star' nails hammered through the head and sill penetrating the sides of the tenons. Please be aware that if you are inexperienced at this sort of joinery, that various rebates are needed and 'drips' inserted to prevent 'water tracking' into the property - and I would advise that you firstly read a good joinery book (from the library) and then have a word with a timber merchant so that he can point you in the right direction as to the type of door framing to use. Brian G Thanks, Brian. I hadn't thought of the upper framework and threshold as a unit. But it makes sense in terms of sizing for a door. I am looking to replace everything with first class timbers preferably oak if I can get the materials for affordable prices. Having said that, My front door is fully exposed to the elements and if I am advised to choose settle for just quality hard timber then I will..after all, its a mid terrace..not Balmoral. I've found a couple sales on ebay that are giving me some idea of the costs of materials involved. If you could give me your input on wether these represent good value sapele mahogany door casing timbers http://tinyurl.com/2n5vfo Oak timbers http://tinyurl.com/2h2m3m Thanks again. Arthur =========================== Arthur, I don't know what your level of skill is, but I would suggest that before you buy your material off Ebay, you take a sketch of your frame to a local timber suppliers/joinery shop and ask them what 'shape' material that you need - as "replacing everything with first class timbers preferably oak if I can" *AND* getting that material "for affordable prices" may not be possible if you get the wrong stuff from Ebay From your description, I would hazard a guess that there are two possible ways to make this frame: 1 - Make the door frame and side-light as one unit - requiring a normal rebate (to take the door) and a stopped rebate on the back (to take the glass) on one of the door stiles - along with a 'built in' window sill (yet more work will be needed if you have an opening window sash). 2 - Make the door frame and window light as separate units and the 'screw' them together during the fixing progress - avoiding the extra rebate work, but bulkier and needing cover strips to hide the join - and to me, less aesthetic. Brian G |
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