Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?
--
Vass

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

On Tue, 27 Feb 2007 19:14:47 -0000, "Vass"
wrote:

Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?

You can do either.

If you think that you may change the kitchen furniture during the
lifetime of the tiles then you may want to tile to the edge.


If you have floor standing appliances it makes sense either to tile
back to the wall where they are or to tile part way underneath and
fill the back area with something suitable (e.g. ply, cheaper tiles)
of the same depth.

Whether it's worth it depends on whether the tiles are £20 a metre or
£120 a metre.



--

..andy

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

In article ,
"Vass" writes:
Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?

I tiled to the wall. I'm expecting the tiles to last longer than
the rest of the kitchen. A "professionally" installed kitchen
tiled up to the plinth, except in the gap for a washing machine
where they go right back to the wall. The effect of this was to
leave insufficient height for some standard washing machines
under the worktop, as the units are all standing on a lower floor.
The nice thing about DIY is you can do it properly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Vass" writes:
Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?

I tiled to the wall. I'm expecting the tiles to last longer than
the rest of the kitchen. A "professionally" installed kitchen
tiled up to the plinth, except in the gap for a washing machine
where they go right back to the wall. The effect of this was to
leave insufficient height for some standard washing machines
under the worktop, as the units are all standing on a lower floor.
The nice thing about DIY is you can do it properly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Hmmmm... that suggests the legs on the units were set to the wrong height
(like I did when I fitted my kitchen about 10yrs ago).

Symptoms of wrong-height legs include:

- appliances that won't fit under the worktops because the tiles are too
thick
- having to trim a few mm off the plinths so that they will fit in between
the tiles and the bottom of the cupboards.

We'll shortly be reworking our kitchen a bit and dumping the tiles in favour
of something like Karndean flooring (quite a bit thinner). Hopefully I can
just slide the plinths down the cabinet legs a bit and there won't be a
noticeable gap at the top!

As others have said, I'd tile to the wall where you plan to slide in
appliances, BUT adjust the cabinet legs to be a bit higher if you can.

Regards,
Simon.

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

On 27 Feb 2007 19:46:15 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
"Vass" writes:
Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?

I tiled to the wall. I'm expecting the tiles to last longer than
the rest of the kitchen. A "professionally" installed kitchen
tiled up to the plinth, except in the gap for a washing machine
where they go right back to the wall. The effect of this was to
leave insufficient height for some standard washing machines
under the worktop, as the units are all standing on a lower floor.
The nice thing about DIY is you can do it properly.


Raise the legs?


--

..andy

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

I always prefer to tile to the walls, it gives flexibility for changes
at a later stage. Its also worth thinking of the laying time. Its
time consuming to cut tiles around the units, but if laying to wall
then you can leave a 100mm gap if you so desire so that you only use
full tiles, except in places where they are seen and where appliances
are. There is plenty height in a plinth to accommodate tiles going all
the way under, and there is no excuse for professional fitters getting
worktop heights wrong, unless of course the client changes there mind
and opts for tiles when they had specified lino at the time of fitting
(believe me this can happen and a good fitter will smile nicely and
raise all the units and lose a days work).

Calum Sabey
NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Vass" writes:
Best to tile up to the wall?
or install units and tile up to the legs of the units because I'm using
plinths to hide them?
latter is cheaper but is it the right way to go?

I tiled to the wall. I'm expecting the tiles to last longer than
the rest of the kitchen. A "professionally" installed kitchen
tiled up to the plinth, except in the gap for a washing machine
where they go right back to the wall. The effect of this was to
leave insufficient height for some standard washing machines
under the worktop, as the units are all standing on a lower floor.
The nice thing about DIY is you can do it properly.

So, the washing machine plus tile thickness plus a reasonable gap at the
top is where your worktop should go. One tile above that the bottom of
the sockets, and 2 tiles above that, the bottom of the wall units.

I've always got lucky with the WM but it's easy to see how it could be a
sting in the tail

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

So, the washing machine plus tile thickness plus a reasonable gap at the
top is where your worktop should go. One tile above that the bottom of the
sockets,

150mm minimum worktop to socket so it depends upon your tile size :-)
--
Vass

Tiling the floor (kitchen)
 

Vass wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

So, the washing machine plus tile thickness plus a reasonable gap at the
top is where your worktop should go. One tile above that the bottom of the
sockets,

150mm minimum worktop to socket so it depends upon your tile size :-)

It does indeed, but it gives you a flying start if you don't have to cut
that first tile.