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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)

Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?

What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)



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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

Bob wrote:
I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)

Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?

What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)


Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.

If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.

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Bob Bob is offline
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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster


"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)

Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?

What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis
perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the
stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)


Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.

If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.


The wall WAS damp, this has been fixed (bridged DPC). Can regular
plasterboard be used?? I understood if the wall was plastered (i.e not
plasterboard) then regular plaster could not be used on previously
contaminated areas and that driwall or similar needed be to used.




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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

Bob wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)

Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?

What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis
perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the
stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)


Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.

If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.


The wall WAS damp, this has been fixed (bridged DPC). Can regular
plasterboard be used?? I understood if the wall was plastered (i.e not
plasterboard) then regular plaster could not be used on previously
contaminated areas and that driwall or similar needed be to used.


The issue is that with plaster, salt and stuff can still leach a bit at
normal humidities over time.

With plasterboard, as long as there is an airspace behind it, you are
fine, as nothing can leach to the plasterboad.
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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

On 2 Feb, 17:13, Ian Stirling wrote:
Bob wrote:
"Ian Stirling" wrote in message

...
Bob wrote:


I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)


Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?


What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis
perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the
stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)


Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.


If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.


The wall WAS damp, this has been fixed (bridged DPC). Can regular
plasterboard be used?? I understood if the wall was plastered (i.e not
plasterboard) then regular plaster could not be used on previously
contaminated areas and that driwall or similar needed be to used.


The issue is that with plaster, salt and stuff can still leach a bit at
normal humidities over time.

With plasterboard, as long as there is an airspace behind it, you are
fine, as nothing can leach to the plasterboad.


However walls are very slow to dry out. If you use distemper rather
than emulsion you'll keep the pb/paint barrier porous, which will aid
in drying out.

OTOH if youre PBing you might want to add battens and rockwool, which
will need a vapour barrier.

Best option is probably remove plaster, let dry a month, add
insulation and pb, if you dont already have cavity insulation.


NT



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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

Bob wrote:
"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)

Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?

What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis
perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the
stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)

Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.

If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.


The wall WAS damp, this has been fixed (bridged DPC). Can regular
plasterboard be used?? I understood if the wall was plastered (i.e not
plasterboard) then regular plaster could not be used on previously
contaminated areas and that driwall or similar needed be to used.



If its been fixed you simply wait for the plaster to dry out, PVA it and
paint it.

Or use anything including foil backed board if you must, to cover it.



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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

wrote:
On 2 Feb, 17:13, Ian Stirling wrote:
Bob wrote:
"Ian Stirling" wrote in message

...
Bob wrote:


I have a wall that was damp and caused contaminated plaster (i.e salts)
Traditionally, the reccomended solution is to replaster (using Thistle
Driwall). However I can considering replacing with plasterboard?
What type of plasterboard should I be using? I have googled and found
mention of "damp proof" plasterboard, but when looking at the travis
perkins
website, the range become confusing? Is Gyproc Moisture Resistant the
stuff?
or should I be using something else? (i.e plaster with driwall, or other
plasterboard?)
Moisture resistant plasterboard is moisture resistant, it will not stand
constant damp.
If you have constant damp, you need to fix it.
The wall WAS damp, this has been fixed (bridged DPC). Can regular
plasterboard be used?? I understood if the wall was plastered (i.e not
plasterboard) then regular plaster could not be used on previously
contaminated areas and that driwall or similar needed be to used.

The issue is that with plaster, salt and stuff can still leach a bit at
normal humidities over time.

With plasterboard, as long as there is an airspace behind it, you are
fine, as nothing can leach to the plasterboad.


However walls are very slow to dry out. If you use distemper rather
than emulsion you'll keep the pb/paint barrier porous, which will aid
in drying out.


Yeah Might take as long as a week indoors this time of year with CH on..


OTOH if youre PBing you might want to add battens and rockwool, which
will need a vapour barrier.

Best option is probably remove plaster, let dry a month, add
insulation and pb, if you dont already have cavity insulation.


NT

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Default Plasterboard for previous contaminated plaster

On 2 Feb, 23:09, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:


However walls are very slow to dry out. If you use distemper rather
than emulsion you'll keep the pb/paint barrier porous, which will aid
in drying out.


Yeah Might take as long as a week indoors this time of year with CH on..


for the surface maybe, but most walls arent paper thin. Allow about 3
weeks per inch IIRC. If youre plastering before then, porous lets it
keep drying.


NT

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