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Default Dead simple plumbing/hot water question

Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John
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John Law wrote:
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe
90 secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank
upstairs. On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the
water to come to the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the
thread: I am no Jackie].

John


The shortest route will have already been taken by the plumber.
Either move the kitchen sink closer to the boiler or move the boiler closer
to the sink :-p forget the 22mm pipe as it holds even more cold water than
the 15mm


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Default Dead simple plumbing/hot water question

"John Law" wrote in message
...
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John



I have a tap exactly like that, and when we were looking for these online, I
noticed that they were all specified for High Pressure systems only.

Is your hot water system a mains-pressure system, or does it rely on a
header tank in the loft?

From your initial description of awfull pressure, then I guess it is not
mains pressure.

If it is a mains pressure system, then the time lag is just down to pipe
length, and replscing 15mm with 22mm will increase the time lag, since
there's going tobe a greater pipe volume to flush through with hot water.

If your hot water system is not mains pressure, ( which I suspect is the
case ), the you have probably installed a tap that is incompatable with your
system. In this case, there are only 3 solutions: replace the tap, replace
the hot water system, or install a pump in the hot supply at the tap. (
This solution will be greeted with a certain amount of derision in a few
moments... )

--
Ron




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John Law wrote:

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?


If it were me.... and depending on other things like... well like what
else ran of the same (long) feed I night be inclined to look at going
down to a smaller bore than 15mm perhaps 10mm ?
All I ever seem to use our hot tap in the kitchen for is washing my
hands and anything I actually need hot water for would well be served by
a smaller pipe. After all, the last 12" of feed to our tap is small bore .

Of course this is only an idea to bounce around the group, but I'd
certainly consider it as hot water would get to the pipe much quicker.
Also less _cold_ pipe to heat on route to the tap.

Pete
--
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In article ,
John Law wrote:
The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.


So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)


My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?


There's a very good chance your fancy mixer tap is designed for mains
pressure hot water - mine is, but I too have a storage system. Which
worked fine with low pressure taps. So I added a pump which sorts things
out. Cost less than the mixer.

--
*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 19:15:56 +0000, John Law
wrote:

Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John


I think you have largely answered your own question.

You appear to have a number of unsatisfactory points in this system.

A tap designed for mains type pressure not low pressure.

A very convoluted pipe run with bends that slow the flow.

Narrow pipework.


Presumably the feed tank is in the roof? You could look at raising
this. Even a few feet might make a difference in the pressure
available.
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On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 19:15:56 +0000, John Law wrote:

Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John


This is by no means simple to answer!
The likelihood is that you have a conventional (now becoming
'traditional') plumbing system. The kitchen tap is really suited to a high
pressure supply on both the H & C.

Answers
1) Live with it.

2) Rationalising the pipework is unlikely to make a lot of difference
as most of the restriction is in the tap.

3) Going to a bigger supply will only make the delay bigger.

4) A boost pump (a few hundred quid) could help.

5) If the boiler is near the sink AND if it's near the end of its life
then you could consider a combi boiler for the kitchen sink and keep the
stored HW for the bathroom.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards
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"John Law" wrote in message
...
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].


So far no one has really attacked the question with any great logic. The
time it takes for hot water to come through should be a function of the flow
rate and the volume in the pipe between the cylinder and the tap. So the
first stage is to measure the flow rate. My own hot water tap in the sink
fills a pint glass in about 4 seconds or 7 seconds per litre. The cold tap
at mains pressure does it in half that. So what is the flow rate from your
own tap? Can you live with that flow rate or does it take too long to fill
the sink? If yes then you need a better tap anyway, or as you have been
told, one that is suitable for non-mains pressure water.

Step 2 is the volume of water between the cylinder and the sink. 15mm pipe
has an i/d of 13.6mm which equates to 145cc per metre or 1 litre every 7
metres.

22mm pipe has an i/d of 20.2mm which equates to 320cc per metre or 1 litre
every 3 metres.

So measure the length of pipe run to the sink and note the pipe diameter.
Work out the pipe volume. Does the flow rate and pipe volume equate to the
90 seconds it takes for hot water to come through? It would take a very long
pipe run and a truly awful tap to account for 90 seconds of cold flow.
Normally you'd expect it to be under 15 seconds.

There are only three solutions. Reduce the pipe diameter, reduce the pipe
length, increase the flow rate of the tap.
--
Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines
www.pumaracing.co.uk
Camp USA engineer minces about for high performance specialist (4,4,7)


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On 2006-11-15 19:45:53 +0000, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)"
said:

John Law wrote:

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?


If it were me.... and depending on other things like... well like what
else ran of the same (long) feed I night be inclined to look at going
down to a smaller bore than 15mm perhaps 10mm ?
All I ever seem to use our hot tap in the kitchen for is washing my
hands and anything I actually need hot water for would well be served
by a smaller pipe. After all, the last 12" of feed to our tap is small
bore .

Of course this is only an idea to bounce around the group, but I'd
certainly consider it as hot water would get to the pipe much quicker.
Also less _cold_ pipe to heat on route to the tap.

Pete


It would be reasonable from the perspective of a smaller volume of
water. Unfortunately there would also be a large reduction in flow
volume. It would probably be OK for hand washing but for dishes and
with a sprayer about as exciting as Brussels on a November Monday
morning.


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John Law wrote:
The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.


So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)


My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?


There's a very good chance your fancy mixer tap is designed for mains
pressure hot water - mine is, but I too have a storage system. Which
worked fine with low pressure taps. So I added a pump which sorts things
out. Cost less than the mixer.


ROFLMAO. He one pump on one tap. Hilarious.



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"EricP" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 19:15:56 +0000, John Law
wrote:

Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John


I think you have largely answered your own question.

You appear to have a number of unsatisfactory points in this system.

A tap designed for mains type pressure not low pressure.

A very convoluted pipe run with bends that slow the flow.

Narrow pipework.

Presumably the feed tank is in the roof? You could look at raising
this. Even a few feet might make a difference in the pressure
available.


A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap. Low pressure hot
and high pressure cold. The are cheap enough and cheaper than a booster
pump for just one tap, which is a very silly idea.

If there is a DHW lag after, not pressure then use a Grundfos Comfort
secondary circulation pump. A pipe has to be taken back to the cylinder - it
can be very small bore - and have all the tap off this loop then instant DHW
at the taps.


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Default Dead simple plumbing/hot water question

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
There's a very good chance your fancy mixer tap is designed for mains
pressure hot water - mine is, but I too have a storage system. Which
worked fine with low pressure taps. So I added a pump which sorts
things out. Cost less than the mixer.


ROFLMAO. He one pump on one tap. Hilarious.


Will you please eff off as you are a total idiot

?dribble

--
*Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
There's a very good chance your fancy mixer tap is designed for mains
pressure hot water - mine is, but I too have a storage system. Which
worked fine with low pressure taps. So I added a pump which sorts
things out. Cost less than the mixer.


ROFLMAO. He fitted one pump on one tap. Hilarious.


?dribble


Yes he is dribbling too, just as his tap was.

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
:

So I added a pump which sorts things
out. Cost less than the mixer.


What sort of pump - I had a Grundfos which wasn't all that powerful, but
was sort of satisfactory and eassy to fit, but failed "on" after about 15
months (out of warranty, of course)

I couldn't find a fualt in the electrics, and thought the magnet might have
stopped responding, but couldn't prove anything, certainly it operated when
you waved a magnet at the reed switch.

Better ones are expensive and harder to install, but I'd do it if I wasn't
going to get burned again

mike
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
ROFLMAO. He fitted one pump on one tap. Hilarious


Yes he is dribbling too, just as his tap was.


'Was' being the operative word. With the pump it gushes. Rather like you.

--
*Do they ever shut up on your planet?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap.


And these - of the type the OP has - are available where?

--
*If only you'd use your powers for good instead of evil.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap.


And these - of the type the OP has - are available where?

Drivel has a pump on his dick so he can **** all over everyone..didn't
you know?
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"Phil L" wrote

The shortest route will have already been taken by the plumber.


Not if the kitchen is an extension!
The plumber will have taken the easiest route for him to pipe not
necessarily the shortest.
With the introduction of this plastic "thread-it-anywhere" pipe this could
be a convoluted run!

Phil


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In article ,
mike wrote:
So I added a pump which sorts things
out. Cost less than the mixer.


What sort of pump -


http://www.pumpsukltd.com/Page.asp?C...ward=gogshower

--
*I finally got my head together, now my body is falling apart.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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John Law wrote:
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John

Undo the end of your mixer tap and remove the several layers of wire
meshing. I had these in mine and they created resistance to water flow.
I think they are there to create a nice even distribution of water from
the tap.

When I looked at mine I was horrified to find lots of nasty gungey stuff
all over them. Probably came from the header tank and captured by these
wire meshes. Yuk! Our drinking water also passed through that stuff. I
don't think mixer taps are very hygienic since your drinking/cold water
will pass through the same pipe as the hot water. Also, they waste
water. If you want cold you have to run it to get rid of the stored hot
(although rapidly cooling) water. I you want hot, you have to run it to
get rid of the cold.

Anyway, I digress. I removed the wire meshes and was left with a simple
plastic filter with reasonable holes. Water flow was greatly improved
and now has a nice distribution of little jets, a bit like a small
shower. Watch out for the cold, it'll really shoot out now!


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"Rob Horton" wrote in message
...
John Law wrote:
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs. On
the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to the
upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or cold,
on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and improve
the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe with 22mm
pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John

Undo the end of your mixer tap and remove the several layers of wire
meshing. I had these in mine and they created resistance to water flow. I
think they are there to create a nice even distribution of water from the
tap.

When I looked at mine I was horrified to find lots of nasty gungey stuff
all over them. Probably came from the header tank and captured by these
wire meshes. Yuk! Our drinking water also passed through that stuff. I
don't think mixer taps are very hygienic since your drinking/cold water
will pass through the same pipe as the hot water. Also, they waste water.
If you want cold you have to run it to get rid of the stored hot (although
rapidly cooling) water. I you want hot, you have to run it to get rid of
the cold.

Anyway, I digress. I removed the wire meshes and was left with a simple
plastic filter with reasonable holes. Water flow was greatly improved and
now has a nice distribution of little jets, a bit like a small shower.
Watch out for the cold, it'll really shoot out now!


And DONT change the 15mm pipe for 22mm. When the hot water finally arrives,
it will fill the bowl quicker but the volume in a pipe goes with the square
of the radius and the flow with some lower power so it will take LONGER for
the hot water to arrive (but there will be a lot more of it when it does).


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
ROFLMAO. He fitted one pump on one tap. Hilarious


Yes he is dribbling too, just as his tap was.


'Was' being


Will you please eff off as you a complete idiot.

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap.


And these -noise into sound.


Will you please eff off as you a complete idiot.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Law
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe 90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.
On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to
the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is
one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread: I
am no Jackie].

John
I just installed a Grundfos 15/90 Home Booster pump on system that sounds remarkably like yours. The difference is immesurable to be honest - and was doddle to fit under the kitchen sink. Its almost silent and turns on only when required. I looked for ages on ebay and finally picked up a brand new one for £20 - I think the retail price is c £100.
But it will save hours and hours of fitting a new run. I'm sure this is not the most professional way to do it but it has sloved the problem for me and now my (ceramic valve) tap belts out HW at a very acceptable level. Before the pump I could nopt even get warm water as the mains pressure CW was outweighing the HW...I'm certain that a simlar result could have been possible by running a less complicated run to the kitchen sink but I really couldnt be bothered to pull up all the upstairs carpet and redocoarte the kitchen as the run is behind a false panel in the kitchen to hide them
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap.


And these -noise into sound.


You seem to have be having problems with your newsreader - it's not making
sense. Or perhaps you're drunk again given it's after breakfast time?

Will you please eff off as you a complete idiot.


Ah. You drunk then.

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap.

And these -noise into sound.


You seem to have be having problems with your newsreader - it's not making
sense. Or perhaps you're drunk again given it's after breakfast time?

Will you please eff off as you are a complete idiot.


Ah.


Will you please eff off as you are a complete idiot.

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"alexbartman" wrote in message
...

John Law Wrote:
Hi all

The hot water pressure in our kitchen is awful: we have to wait maybe
90
secs for the really hot water to come through from the tank upstairs.

On the other hand, it takes a few seconds only for the water to come to

the upstairs basin.

So far, so fairly bleeding obvious. (Additionally: the kitchen tap is

one of those fancy pull lever up and swing left or right for hot or
cold, on a long flexible pipe so you can hose the dishes, and with a
press-button spray system; and goodness knows (I've forgotten) what
convolutions the feed pipe goes through on its way from upstairs to
down.)

My question: what would The Panel suggest, as a means of improving
reaction time downstairs? Get rid of the fancy tap? Look at and
improve the route? or could I perhaps replace the standard 15mm pipe
with 22mm pipe?

I'll be grateful for any suggestions -- [for those who saw the thread:
I
am no Jackie].

John


I just installed a Grundfos 15/90 Home
Booster pump on system that sounds
remarkably like yours. The difference
is immesurable to be honest - and was
doddle to fit under the kitchen sink. Its almost
silent and turns on only when required.
I looked for ages on ebay and finally picked
up a brand new one for £20 - I think the retail price is
c £100.


I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You get your
Association application form soon.

But it will save hours and hours of fitting a new run.


All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.

I'm sure this is not the most
professional way to do it


You bet your boots it is not.


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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You get your
Association application form soon.


But it will save hours and hours of fitting a new run.


All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.


I'll ask again - more in hope than anticipation. Where does one buy the
type of mixer tap the OP has for a combined low pressure hot, high
pressure cold, supply?

I'm sure this is not the most
professional way to do it


You bet your boots it is not.


No - some 'pros' will just sling on anything that is easiest for them,
regardless of looks or what's required.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"alexbartman" wrote in message
...


[snip]


I just installed a Grundfos 15/90 Home
Booster pump on system that sounds
remarkably like yours. The difference
is immesurable to be honest - and was
doddle to fit under the kitchen sink. Its almost
silent and turns on only when required.
I looked for ages on ebay and finally picked
up a brand new one for £20 - I think the retail price is
c £100.


I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You get your
Association application form soon.


Ignore the resident moron dribble, Alex. He lives in a bedsit with an
instant water heater above the sink so doesn't understand proper hot water
systems.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You get your
Association application form soon.


But it will save hours and hours of fitting a new run.


All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.


I'll ask


Will you please eff off as you are a total idiot.



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A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap. Low pressure
hot and high pressure cold. The are cheap enough and cheaper than a
booster pump for just one tap, which is a very silly idea.


It is not possible to design a low pressure tap with the features desired.
Therefore, a pump is a better solution.

Christian.


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"alexbartman" wrote in message
...


[snip]


I just installed a Grundfos 15/90 Home
Booster pump on system that sounds
remarkably like yours. The difference
is immesurable to be honest - and was
doddle to fit under the kitchen sink. Its almost
silent and turns on only when required.
I looked for ages on ebay and finally picked
up a brand new one for £20 - I think the retail price is
c £100.


I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You get your
Association application form soon.


Ignore


Will you please eff off as you are a total idiot.

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All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.

The OP clearly doesn't want a ****ty 50 quid tap, or they wouldn't have
bought an expensive and convenient hose type one.

Christian.


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"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
.. .
A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap. Low pressure
hot and high pressure cold. The are cheap enough and cheaper than a
booster pump for just one tap, which is a very silly idea.


It is not possible to design a low pressure tap with the features desired.


They are for sale. If the mains pressure is high, 7 bar for e.g., there may
be problems, so a pressure reducing valve on the cold of that tap on a low
pressure mixer is cheaper and better than a pump on the hot.



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On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 16:10:02 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'll ask again - more in hope than anticipation. Where does one buy the
type of mixer tap the OP has for a combined low pressure hot, high
pressure cold, supply?


Just bought a bath filler and basin filler from Boundary Bathrooms. Dual
control, 1/4 turn ceramic disc, monoblock, twin flow, suitable for low
and pressure systems. The key words are "twin flow" rather than "mixer".

On the OPs problem it may well be related to his fancy tap. It could well
be designed for high pressure systems only and thus will perform badly on
a normal UK HW tank fed (low pressure) HW system.

--
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"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
.. .
All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.


The OP clearly doesn't want a ****ty 50 quid tap, or they wouldn't have
bought an expensive and convenient hose type one.


They are available these days for £50 even with a hose.

Screwfix No. 82-196 £46. pull out hose, push button and all. (maybe high
pressure only)
Screwfix No. 54621 swivel no pullout hose and high and low pressure.

BTW, these spray hoses require a min of 1.5 bar for the spay tom operate.
The Grundfos Booster will not get to 1 bar. To get to 1.5 bar and above
you will need an expensive, and noisy, pump.

Best he get the right taps: 54621 above. Sorted.





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In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap. Low
pressure hot and high pressure cold. The are cheap enough and
cheaper than a booster pump for just one tap, which is a very silly
idea.


It is not possible to design a low pressure tap with the features
desired. Therefore, a pump is a better solution.


Dribble - who claims to be a pro - thinks such taps are available in every
shop. Probably even Tescos. Shows just how little he knows.

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It is not possible to design a low pressure tap with the features
desired.


They are for sale. If the mains pressure is high, 7 bar for e.g., there
may be problems, so a pressure reducing valve on the cold of that tap on a
low pressure mixer is cheaper and better than a pump on the hot.


Could you point me at a link for a mixer tap with hose attachment and
internal body mixing that is suitable for mixed gravity/mains operation. The
hose has to provide high pressure very hot water. This high pressure water
has to be at least 55C, as it is for dishwashing, not showering.

Christian.


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Best he get the right taps: 54621 above. Sorted.

That doesn't have a hose. Keep up. Muppet.

Christian.


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
A few feet? No. Best he gets the right type of mixer tap. Low
pressure hot and high pressure cold. The are cheap enough and
cheaper than a booster pump for just one tap, which is a very silly
idea.


It is not possible to design a low pressure tap with the features
desired. Therefore, a pump is a better solution.


Dribble


Dribble he does at that age. Please eff off as you are a total idiot.

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