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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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WetNfiX
i have a great problem with rawlplugs not "biting" in my very crumbly
cinder-block walls. i have come across something called wetnfix and wondered do these work? (www.wetnfix.co.uk) if anyone has used them i'd appreciate your feedback. i'm a bit loathed to spend money on something that doesn't improve the situation. harry (mr) |
#2
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WetNfiX
Mr Harry wrote:
i have a great problem with rawlplugs not "biting" in my very crumbly cinder-block walls. i have come across something called wetnfix and wondered do these work? (www.wetnfix.co.uk) if anyone has used them i'd appreciate your feedback. i'm a bit loathed to spend money on something that doesn't improve the situation. harry (mr) Not tried those yet. Other effective methods are 1. drill oversize, fill, let dry and drill/plug as normal 2. use resin fixing NT |
#3
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WetNfiX
On 16 Oct 2006 07:25:07 -0700, Mr Harry wrote:
i have come across something called wetnfix and wondered do these work? Tja! Es lauft ganz gut. |
#4
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WetNfiX
Mr Harry wrote:
i have a great problem with rawlplugs not "biting" in my very crumbly cinder-block walls. i have come across something called wetnfix and wondered do these work? (www.wetnfix.co.uk) if anyone has used them i'd appreciate your feedback. i'm a bit loathed to spend money on something that doesn't improve the situation. They're not bad - I've used them once or twice. I keep then in my rawlplug box for use in situations where I reckoned a rawlplug would work OK, but then find it hasn't! Does depend on how crappy your walls are though - if they're really bad, these things won't work miracles, and you'd be better off with a more rigourous method like a resin-based system. But anbyway, they only cost a quid or so from B&Q or Wickes: hardly going to break the bank if they don't grip well enough!! David |
#5
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WetNfiX
Lobster wrote: But anbyway, they only cost a quid or so from B&Q or Wickes: hardly going to break the bank if they don't grip well enough!! £3.50 for 10 |
#6
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WetNfiX
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#7
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WetNfiX
Lobster wrote: They're not bad - I've used them once or twice. I keep then in my rawlplug box for use in situations where I reckoned a rawlplug would work OK, but then find it hasn't! Does depend on how crappy your walls are though - if they're really bad, these things won't work miracles, and you'd be better off with a more rigourous method like a resin-based system. Walls are such that maybe one out of four rawl plugs hits a soft spot. harry |
#8
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WetNfiX
Lobster wrote:
They're not bad - I've used them once or twice. I keep then in my rawlplug box for use in situations where I reckoned a rawlplug would work OK, but then find it hasn't! Does depend on how crappy your walls are though - if they're really bad, these things won't work miracles, and you'd be better off with a more rigourous method like a resin-based system. Reminds me of the stuff Rawlplug used to sell years ago. Was it asbestos fibre based? You spat on it & bunged it in the hole. Most Fischer stuff does what it says on the tin. -- Dave The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk 01634 717930 07850 597257 |
#9
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WetNfiX
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Reminds me of the stuff Rawlplug used to sell years ago. Was it asbestos fibre based? You spat on it & bunged it in the hole. Yes, asbestos. Very good stuff too. Been holding up my bookshelves for the past 21 years. |
#10
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WetNfiX
Mr Harry wrote: wrote: Not tried those yet. Other effective methods are 1. drill oversize, fill, let dry and drill/plug as normal Fill with polyfilla or cement? Get some foam glue and just bang a few nails in to keep the batton in place. Mark the wall level or plumb, run the glue along the line, put the baton in place and nail it home. The nails should stop the glue from pushing it off. When the foam has set, cut the excess off with a sharp blade. If you are bothered about markng the wood use some tape to protect it and go sparingly with the glue. You really don't need much. Try some in an out of the way place first. |
#11
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WetNfiX
Weatherlawyer wrote:
Mr Harry wrote: wrote: Not tried those yet. Other effective methods are 1. drill oversize, fill, let dry and drill/plug as normal Fill with polyfilla or cement? Fill with car body filler and drill a new hole 5 minutes later |
#12
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WetNfiX
Most Fischer stuff does what it says on the tin. Interestingly Wet'n'Fix didnt start life as a Fischer Product... it was the creation of "Monarch International" an odd collection of an IT Consultant, a Prosthetics expert and a Wine purchaser for a large chain. Nice guys though. Like most one-product startups they struggled to get traction until Fischer negotiated to rebrand the product. Once Fischer did have the rights they didnt do much with it for a ling time. It looked like they were burying the product until Monarch went bust or decided not to play anymore. I've not spoken to them in a a couple of years, but it does seem like things are picking up for them, but then they have been plugging away for 7~8 years. For the record, they do work very well - which is probably why the guys have stayed the course - when you have a product that works well that you can believe in, it does keep you focussed... |
#13
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WetNfiX
djc wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: Reminds me of the stuff Rawlplug used to sell years ago. Was it asbestos fibre based? You spat on it & bunged it in the hole. Yes, asbestos. Very good stuff too. Been holding up my bookshelves for the past 21 years. There's an asbestos-free version now called 'plug and repair' - http://www.diytools.co.uk/product.as...62!TB_RAW13002 -- Andy |
#14
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WetNfiX
Update:
Bought some from Wickes (£2.99 for 20 iirc) and initial results seem promising. They seem to do exactly what it says on the packet. Time will tell how they perform over time. harry |
#15
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Yup have used them - alot! I have an old Victorian house and is the bane of my life!! |
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