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Chainsaws...
I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any
thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) Cheers, Gordon |
Chainsaws...
"Gordon Henderson" wrote in message ... I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) Cheers, Gordon I have a small 15" Husqvarna (136?) and I have to say it has been faultless. In retrospect I would have got a slightly more powerful one but it's too late now. The most useful "sister tool" you could possibly purchase is a Dremel and the Dremel chainsaw sharpening accessory. David |
Chainsaws...
"Gordon Henderson" wrote in message ... I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) Cheers, Gordon STIHL or Husqvarna. Both are excellent, I've got lots of bits by both inc. chainsaws and probably flip a coin to choose. Might be worth looking for something a bit more powerful to give you flexibility and easy of use but they can get very expensive when you go above 40cc. |
Chainsaws...
Gordon Henderson wrote:
I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) Wouldn't get any other. Easy starters, very powerful and well made bits of kit. Also try and use stihl 2 stroke oil. It is good enough to be used in low concentrations so much less smoke. Get plenty of chain oil - mine needs a tank of that every other tank of 'petroil'..and get a spare chain, cos then you always can have a sharp spare. This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) Cheers, Gordon |
Chainsaws...
TonyK wrote:
"Gordon Henderson" wrote in message ... I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) Cheers, Gordon STIHL or Husqvarna. Both are excellent, I've got lots of bits by both inc. chainsaws and probably flip a coin to choose. Might be worth looking for something a bit more powerful to give you flexibility and easy of use but they can get very expensive when you go above 40cc. I think it is a usage thing. Yes. I have a lightweight tiddler and it struggles on big stuff but its a lot less tiring in the smaller stuff, which is mainly what I have. Ive got a Stihl hedge trimmer and boy, an hour of that and I am aching and my fingers are tingling from it. |
Chainsaws...
Gordon Henderson wrote: I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) I have a small Stihl one and it's a lovely piece of kit. It made very light work of chopping through a pile of oak the other day! It does have a tendancy to leak chain oil all over the place if not stored a specific way up.. although this might be the same for other saws ? I got mine from worldofpower.co.uk whom I would be happy to use again and recommend. PS. Mine kicked back at me the other day, which was a bit scary.. I am going to get a face gaurd before using it again ( since I can't trust myself to respect it enough!) -- Simon |
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Chainsaws...
wrote in message ups.com... Gordon Henderson wrote: I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) I have a small Stihl one and it's a lovely piece of kit. It made very light work of chopping through a pile of oak the other day! It does have a tendancy to leak chain oil all over the place if not stored a specific way up.. although this might be the same for other saws ? I got mine from worldofpower.co.uk whom I would be happy to use again and recommend. PS. Mine kicked back at me the other day, which was a bit scary.. I am going to get a face gaurd before using it again ( since I can't trust myself to respect it enough!) You won't go wrong with a Stihl chainsaw. We use several with bar lengths 14" to 40 something inch. With intelligent care, use and maintenance they will last for many years. Our oldest was bought in 1984 and is still in regular use. It is worth having a spare chain or two, also worth having the files and guides to sharpen them. Once you get to know how to sharpen a chain it is but a few minutes work. It is useful to be able to do this 'in the field'. Makes the job easier and much safer. If your saw kicked back something was at fault with either the operator or the saw. A face guard is of course essential, as is other PPE, but this is not an alternative for knowledge and a well tuned saw. Good luck, but take proper care and attention. N. |
Chainsaws...
Nick wrote: wrote in message ups.com... Gordon Henderson wrote: I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) I have a small Stihl one and it's a lovely piece of kit. It made very light work of chopping through a pile of oak the other day! It does have a tendancy to leak chain oil all over the place if not stored a specific way up.. although this might be the same for other saws ? I got mine from worldofpower.co.uk whom I would be happy to use again and recommend. PS. Mine kicked back at me the other day, which was a bit scary.. I am going to get a face gaurd before using it again ( since I can't trust myself to respect it enough!) You won't go wrong with a Stihl chainsaw. We use several with bar lengths 14" to 40 something inch. With intelligent care, use and maintenance they will last for many years. Our oldest was bought in 1984 and is still in regular use. It is worth having a spare chain or two, also worth having the files and guides to sharpen them. Once you get to know how to sharpen a chain it is but a few minutes work. It is useful to be able to do this 'in the field'. Makes the job easier and much safer. If your saw kicked back something was at fault with either the operator or the saw. A face guard is of course essential, as is other PPE, but this is not an alternative for knowledge and a well tuned saw. Good luck, but take proper care and attention. N. thanks for that advice, you are obviously experienced with them, the kickback was only a little one.. it just made me realise that the PPE is not really optional, like you are saying. Don't want to end up with a chainsaw stuck in my head really. Si |
Chainsaws...
wrote: Nick wrote: wrote in message ups.com... Gordon Henderson wrote: I need to buy a chainsaw, wondered if the collective had any thoughts on the STIHL brand? (I'm looking at the MS210 model if that makes any difference) This is just for cutting logs & stuff for home use, nothing much more. I already have a little B&D electric one, but it's not much use in the middle of a wood. It's also a bit old and really needs a new chain (cheaper than a new saw, but since I need something a bit more portable...) I have a small Stihl one and it's a lovely piece of kit. It made very light work of chopping through a pile of oak the other day! It does have a tendancy to leak chain oil all over the place if not stored a specific way up.. although this might be the same for other saws ? I got mine from worldofpower.co.uk whom I would be happy to use again and recommend. PS. Mine kicked back at me the other day, which was a bit scary.. I am going to get a face gaurd before using it again ( since I can't trust myself to respect it enough!) You won't go wrong with a Stihl chainsaw. We use several with bar lengths 14" to 40 something inch. With intelligent care, use and maintenance they will last for many years. Our oldest was bought in 1984 and is still in regular use. It is worth having a spare chain or two, also worth having the files and guides to sharpen them. Once you get to know how to sharpen a chain it is but a few minutes work. It is useful to be able to do this 'in the field'. Makes the job easier and much safer. If your saw kicked back something was at fault with either the operator or the saw. A face guard is of course essential, as is other PPE, but this is not an alternative for knowledge and a well tuned saw. Good luck, but take proper care and attention. N. thanks for that advice, you are obviously experienced with them, the kickback was only a little one.. it just made me realise that the PPE is not really optional, like you are saying. Don't want to end up with a chainsaw stuck in my head really. Si oops bad form/ stupidity .. mine is the Husqvarna 136 not a stihl one.. as you were.. |
Chainsaws...
snip thanks for that advice, you are obviously experienced with them, the kickback was only a little one.. it just made me realise that the PPE is not really optional, like you are saying. Don't want to end up with a chainsaw stuck in my head really. Si oops bad form/ stupidity .. mine is the Husqvarna 136 not a stihl one.. as you were.. No problem. Makes little difference whether it's Stihl, Husqvarna or Joe Bloggs. A saw chain does not differentiate between wood, body parts etc. and takes no prisoners. You wouldn't use a blunt Stanley or bread knife. Imagine either of those working at, IIRC, 80 m/sec! I would very highly recommend a Stihl saw; no connection btw, just a very satisfied user of many years. They are well designed and well made. Not the cheapest but will still be operating at peak when others have bitten the dust, given care and attention. Perhaps of interest, certainly to me, is that parts are readily obtainable even for machines 20+ years old. Just a couple of comments on Stihl saws generally which are entirely my own preferences: I don't much like the quick tensioner, I've found it can slip and allow the chain to slacken (when it gets a little worn after several hundred hours use) but not dangerously so. I much prefer to slacken 1 or 2 nuts and use a screw tensioner, this takes but a few seconds and gives one a better feel for the chain tension. Picco chains are excellent when sharp but dull rapidly and the geometry is such that precise hand sharpening is not easy. I use Oregon chains and sharpening eqpt on all our saws. Standardisation aids my old grey cells immensely. Good luck, hope you make lots of chips for many years. N |
Chainsaws...
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Chainsaws...
Nick wrote:
Just a couple of comments on Stihl saws generally which are entirely my own preferences: I don't much like the quick tensioner, I've found it can slip and allow the chain to slacken (when it gets a little worn after several hundred hours use) but not dangerously so. I much prefer to slacken 1 or 2 nuts and use a screw tensioner, this takes but a few seconds and gives one a better feel for the chain tension. Those are exactly my thoughts about the quick tensioner on my (OK, much less 'professional') Bosch electric chainsaw, it's much less easy to set the tension than the 'old fashioned' screwdriver and spanner adjustment on my older and smaller B&D chainsaw. -- Chris Green |
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