I have a Zanussi 1200 washer/dryer where the motor has stopped turning
the drum altogether. I have already:

1 - replaced the brushes (thought this was the problem but no luck)
2 - put a meter across the armeture with the power on and whatched the
voltage vary up and down

Question:
1 - how do I test the field windings - any idea of pin outs or test I
should do with a meter etc
2 - how do I test the tacho (which I am assuming is the device attached
to the end of the shaft)
3 - how do I proove its the PCB and if so any test worth doing prior to
replacement

Francis

wrote:

I have a Zanussi 1200 washer/dryer where the motor has stopped turning
the drum altogether. I have already:

1 - replaced the brushes (thought this was the problem but no luck)
2 - put a meter across the armeture with the power on and whatched the
voltage vary up and down

Question:
1 - how do I test the field windings - any idea of pin outs or test I
should do with a meter etc
2 - how do I test the tacho (which I am assuming is the device attached
to the end of the shaft)
3 - how do I proove its the PCB and if so any test worth doing prior to
replacement

Francis

WM motors typically have 6 wires, 2 for tacho, 2 for field and 2 for
armature. So its not hard to see if theyre getting the juice or not,
and if the field/arm resistances are reasonable. These will tell you
whether its motor or something else.


NT

I had a similar problem during the summer with a bosch washer dryer and
spent days and days checking for blockages, replaced bushes, soldered
bits of wire to the motor connections to test it in situe with a meter
etc.
Eventually checked the PCB and could see burn marks around the terminal
leading to the motor. I ordered a new one, which was just over £200
(that's Bosch for you), and replaced it. On restart the drum did
start turning (which it wasn't before) but stopped after about 30
seconds, and would keep stopping at the same point each time I
restarted it.
So it looks as if the PCB was only part of the problem, but when it's
'blown' it's taken something else out with it at the same time,
could be the timer (£200), could be the motor (£200), could be both,
could be any thing.
I did get a local engineer out after this, but basically they just
don't have the equipment to test each part of all the different makes
and models.
So if you don't want to make the same mistake as myself, I'd either
call a Zanussi engineer out to find out exactly which parts need
replacing, or better still I'd personally just replace the washing
machine, I think this would work out cheaper in the long run.
I ended up buying a new machine for just over £200, which is the same
price I paid for the replacement PCB that is just sitting boxed on a
shelf in the garage.

Hope this gives you something to think about at least.

Richard wrote:
I had a similar problem during the summer with a bosch washer dryer and
spent days and days checking for blockages, replaced bushes, soldered
bits of wire to the motor connections to test it in situe with a meter
etc.
Eventually checked the PCB and could see burn marks around the terminal
leading to the motor. I ordered a new one, which was just over £200
(that's Bosch for you), and replaced it. On restart the drum did
start turning (which it wasn't before) but stopped after about 30
seconds, and would keep stopping at the same point each time I
restarted it.
So it looks as if the PCB was only part of the problem, but when it's
'blown' it's taken something else out with it at the same time,
could be the timer (£200), could be the motor (£200), could be both,
could be any thing.
I did get a local engineer out after this, but basically they just
don't have the equipment to test each part of all the different makes
and models.
So if you don't want to make the same mistake as myself, I'd either
call a Zanussi engineer out to find out exactly which parts need
replacing, or better still I'd personally just replace the washing
machine, I think this would work out cheaper in the long run.
I ended up buying a new machine for just over £200, which is the same
price I paid for the replacement PCB that is just sitting boxed on a
shelf in the garage.

Hope this gives you something to think about at least.

To help avoid this, OP should slowly move the motor round when R
testing the armature. This will sometimes find an armature short, but
not always.


NT

In article .com,
writes:

WM motors typically have 6 wires, 2 for tacho, 2 for field and 2 for
armature.

If it has 8, then the extra 2 are an additional field winding
used only for the top spin speed (at least on Hotpoint's).

--
Andrew Gabriel