Cill replacement on sash windows.
So far so good - all the rotten wood stripped out and new wood being cut
ready to fix in to the cut out sections. What would be the best waterproof glue/sealer to put on the bottom of the cill to stick it to the concrete base - I was going to use a combination of long screws from the inside and ordinary wood glue to pull the new bits in tight which is fine laterally but not horizontally. TIA -- Buzby There's nothing more dangerous than a resourceful idiot |
Cill replacement on sash windows.
So far so good - all the rotten wood stripped out and new wood being cut ready to fix in to the cut out sections. What would be the best waterproof glue/sealer to put on the bottom of the cill to stick it to the concrete base - I was going to use a combination of long screws from the inside and ordinary wood glue to pull the new bits in tight which is fine laterally but not horizontally. but not vertically . . . . DOH! |
Cill replacement on sash windows.
Buzby wrote:
So far so good - all the rotten wood stripped out and new wood being cut ready to fix in to the cut out sections. Not a method that has ever worked for me. The new bits move and create gaps where they join the original, and any filler able to withstand that kind of flexing is too different in texture. Whole sections like cills are ok but not smaller bits. What would be the best waterproof glue/sealer to put on the bottom of the cill to stick it to the concrete base - I was going to use a combination of long screws from the inside and ordinary wood glue to pull the new bits in tight which is fine laterally but not horizontally. I use car body filler for this kind of thing. |
Cill replacement on sash windows.
Stuart Noble wrote: Buzby wrote: So far so good - all the rotten wood stripped out and new wood being cut ready to fix in to the cut out sections. Not a method that has ever worked for me. The new bits move and create gaps where they join the original, and any filler able to withstand that kind of flexing is too different in texture. Whole sections like cills are ok but not smaller bits. What would be the best waterproof glue/sealer to put on the bottom of the cill to stick it to the concrete base - I was going to use a combination of long screws from the inside and ordinary wood glue to pull the new bits in tight which is fine laterally but not horizontally. I use car body filler for this kind of thing. Yes best either to bodge with filler and give good paint job, or to do a proper job and remove/rebuild window. |
Cill replacement on sash windows.
So far so good - all the rotten wood stripped out and new wood being cut ready to fix in to the cut out sections. Not a method that has ever worked for me. The new bits move and create gaps where they join the original, and any filler able to withstand that kind of flexing is too different in texture. Whole sections like cills are ok but not smaller bits. What would be the best waterproof glue/sealer to put on the bottom of the cill to stick it to the concrete base - I was going to use a combination of long screws from the inside and ordinary wood glue to pull the new bits in tight which is fine laterally but not horizontally. I use car body filler for this kind of thing. Yes best either to bodge with filler and give good paint job, or to do a proper job and remove/rebuild window. Thanks - the bits I'm fitting in are just over a metre each which I think will go in pretty cleanly (hopefully!) with the inner join literally just under the sliding sash window. We'll see! Cheers Buzby |
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