Is there anything that should be done at regular intervals to maintain
a non-sealed domestic gas-fired central heating system? I'm not
concerned about the boiler, as this is checked and maintained by a pro
every year. It's the rest of the system I am concerned about: the
pipework, the rads, the header tank, etc.

Apert from bleeding the rads occasionally, should other maintenance be
doune routinely? Should any kind of chemical be added to the water?
Should the sytem be flushed, and how often?

Thank you,

Drake

"Drake" wrote

Is there anything that should be done at regular intervals to maintain
a non-sealed domestic gas-fired central heating system?

Make sure there is rust inhibitor in sufficient quantity - usually Fernox or
Sentinel product.
Check state of header tank - that it is covered, insulated and has no fungal
growth or debris in.
Check that there is no evidence of pump-over back to the header tank
(visible or audible signs or tank getting hot)
Check that ball float valve works freely and it is set such that the tank
does not overflow.
Make sure all loft pipes are well lagged


Apart from bleeding the rads occasionally, should other maintenance be
done routinely?

Rads should require next to no bleeding once the system has settled (can
take upto a week) after drain/fill.

Should the sytem be flushed, and how often?

If you have recently taken on a system, would certainly advise draining with
gauze over hose discharge to catch crud.
This will give you a good idea of system state.
Hopefully minimal crud will appear - then fill, drain to flush, and re-fill
adding inhibitor.

Should be good for 3-5 years provided no draining or part draining is
carried out.


HTH


Phil

On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 12:43:37 +0100, Drake wrote:

I'm not concerned about the boiler, as this is checked and maintained
by a pro every year.

That "pro" is British Gas is it? Does it still work after they have
finished with it?

Apert from bleeding the rads occasionally, should other maintenance be
doune routinely?

The rads should not need routine bleeding. If you have one or more that
does need bleeding the you have a problem with the system. Either air
getting drawn in some how, a leak or pump over, bringing fresh water (and
dissolved air) into the system causing corrosion and the liberation of
hydrogen.

Should any kind of chemical be added to the water?

It should have an inhibitor to reduce/stop corrosion. Fernox or Sentinel
are known brands.

Should the sytem be flushed, and how often?

Not routinely. If the system has no inhibitor then a clean and flush
might be advisable before refilling and adding inhibitor.

The only regular (annual) stuff I do is close fully, open fully, then
close 1/4 to 1/2 a turn the gate valves. If our heating stayed off during
the summer I'd fire it up every month or two for an hour or so and also
set any TRVs to max. TRVs have a habit of sticking closed if not
exercised.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:25:23 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:

"Drake" wrote

Is there anything that should be done at regular intervals to maintain
a non-sealed domestic gas-fired central heating system?

Make sure there is rust inhibitor in sufficient quantity - usually Fernox or
Sentinel product.
Check state of header tank - that it is covered, insulated and has no fungal
growth or debris in.
Check that there is no evidence of pump-over back to the header tank
(visible or audible signs or tank getting hot)
Check that ball float valve works freely and it is set such that the tank
does not overflow.
Make sure all loft pipes are well lagged


Apart from bleeding the rads occasionally, should other maintenance be
done routinely?

Rads should require next to no bleeding once the system has settled (can
take upto a week) after drain/fill.

Should the sytem be flushed, and how often?

If you have recently taken on a system, would certainly advise draining with
gauze over hose discharge to catch crud.
This will give you a good idea of system state.
Hopefully minimal crud will appear - then fill, drain to flush, and re-fill
adding inhibitor.

Thank you for the tips. I will do what you said. I don't think the
system has been drained for about ten years. Nor has any inhibitor
been added in at least that time.

Drake

On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 16:09:07 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

by a pro every year.

That "pro" is British Gas is it? Does it still work after they have
finished with it?

Yes, because all he does is look at the boiler then try to flog us a
new one ...or if it's an consciencious bloke, he tells us the old one
is perfectly fine!

Apert from bleeding the rads occasionally, should other maintenance be
doune routinely?

The rads should not need routine bleeding. If you have one or more that
does need bleeding the you have a problem with the system. Either air
getting drawn in some how, a leak or pump over, bringing fresh water (and
dissolved air) into the system causing corrosion and the liberation of
hydrogen.

Should any kind of chemical be added to the water?

It should have an inhibitor to reduce/stop corrosion. Fernox or Sentinel
are known brands.

Should the sytem be flushed, and how often?

Not routinely. If the system has no inhibitor then a clean and flush
might be advisable before refilling and adding inhibitor.

What does a 'clean and flush' consist of? Do you mean just drain and
refill, or were you meaning some kind of chemical cleaning procedure?

The only regular (annual) stuff I do is close fully, open fully, then
close 1/4 to 1/2 a turn the gate valves. If our heating stayed off during
the summer I'd fire it up every month or two for an hour or so and also
set any TRVs to max. TRVs have a habit of sticking closed if not
exercised.

Ah, yes... I had forgotten about the sticking TRV problem. Thanks for
reminding me - and for the other tips.

Drake

What does a 'clean and flush' consist of? Do you mean just drain and
refill, or were you meaning some kind of chemical cleaning procedure?

Personally, I would:

Drain
Refill with fresh water
Run entire system for 10 minutes
Drain
Refill with water and Sentinel X400
Run system for a week, ensuring that all parts get used
Drain
Refill with water and Sentinel X100.

This will clean out most systems that aren't already showing any major signs
of malfunction.

Christian.

"Drake" wrote


What does a 'clean and flush' consist of? Do you mean just drain and
refill, or were you meaning some kind of chemical cleaning procedure?


If your initial draining of the system reveals any quantity of sludge or
gritty particles you need to:

Add cleaning agent - again Sentinel or Fernox
I did this via towel rail, isolate towel rail and part drain - take out
bleed connection and add chemical via funnel. Replace bleed connection,
open valves and bleed. This makes sure the stuff is in the system, not in
the bottom of the header tank.
Wind the temperature up and circulate at speed around all system.
(All as instructions on tin and checking boiler and system materials are
compatible with chemical used)
Drain, refill and circulate again to clean.
Drain and refill adding inhibitor.

Phil

On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 16:59:35 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:

If your initial draining of the system reveals any quantity of sludge or
gritty particles you need to:

Add cleaning agent - again Sentinel or Fernox
I did this via towel rail, isolate towel rail and part drain - take out
bleed connection and add chemical via funnel. Replace bleed connection,
open valves and bleed. This makes sure the stuff is in the system, not in
the bottom of the header tank.
Wind the temperature up and circulate at speed around all system.
(All as instructions on tin and checking boiler and system materials are
compatible with chemical used)
Drain, refill and circulate again to clean.
Drain and refill adding inhibitor.

Thanks very much for the detailed instructions. That's very helpful.

Drake

On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 16:57:47 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Personally, I would:

Drain
Refill with fresh water
Run entire system for 10 minutes
Drain
Refill with water and Sentinel X400
Run system for a week, ensuring that all parts get used
Drain
Refill with water and Sentinel X100.

This will clean out most systems that aren't already showing any major signs
of malfunction.

Great - thanks.

Drake